AUS->NZ

August 2023
A 27-day adventure by Ben M & Amy Read more
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  • 4countries
  • 27days
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  • 22.7kkilometers
  • 21.6kkilometers
  • Day 11

    Daintree Rainforest

    August 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    A long post today. May have been the most fun and interesting day so far.

    Daintree Rainforest - We had a tour of the oldest rainforest in the world. Our guide, Stu, was a very passionate and eccentric Kiwi, and his tour was basically the Australian version of the Fear Factor aboard the Knight Bus in Harry Potter. We grappled between renting a car and doing it on our own, but the choice for a guide may have been the best decision we’ve made.

    Along the whole way, Stu would point out ‘stupid tourist’ things, including flagging people who were sitting at a vacant beach that was only 20ft away from a croc den as well as 3 rental cars that were at the bottom of a cliff.

    Upon arriving at the Daintree, the Kuku Yalanii indigenous people asked us to participate in the Welcome to Country and smoke ceremony before going any further, which was very interesting. It’s a live-in educational centre, where the indigenous youth study their culture and pass it along to visitors.

    Mossman Gorge - Our first stop was a small inlet in a river. Stu encouraged everyone to go for a swim and “body surf” down the rapids. Despite the danger signs, Stu swore it was relatively safe as crocs couldn’t climb the rocks - “rocks, no crocs!” But warned you have to be a strong swimmer. Only after did he admit it was full of eels as he laughed hysterically. That said, the swimming was incredible and the rapids were wild and borderline too crazy.

    Wildlife riverboat tour along the Daintree river - saw several crocs, including 4 very large ones along the shore and swimming, and about 10 baby crocs. Our guide told us several stories of what he’s seen and showed us some videos he took. One, a croc pulling a cow off the shore. Another, the alpha male croc shored up to one of his “sunbathing ladies”. When his lady friend rejected him, he sulked away, opened up, and swallowed all of their juveniles (young crocs) in retaliation.

    Cape tribulation - as far north as you can drive along the East coast. A remote area in the deep, upper rainforest with no power or phone service. We were supposed to stop at a more touristy site to see the forest but that wasn’t good enough for Stu so he took us to a more remote spot for a “bush walk” while telling everyone not to touch a single plant during the walk. Stu guided us through the bush and pointed out many poisonous plans and insects that were inches from where we were walking. He also pointed out the non-poisonous ones and goaded us to touch and sometimes eat the insects while cackling away. He also found a nest of ants on the boardwalk and, to our horror, licked the entire nest off the boardwalk and ate them.

    On the way back, we stopped at the coast closest where Steve Irwin died as well as an ice cream place where an 83-year-old local woman makes ice cream from scratch with only ingredients from the rainforest. The speciality flavour tasted like a spicier lemon lime (thanks to the special type of ants that give the flavour!)

    No snakes seen to date so far though! Stu did try his hardest to find us a python. Thankfully, he was unsuccessful.
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  • Day 12

    Found Nemo

    August 14, 2023 ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Another bucket list day. We travelled out 70km from shore to the Great Barrier Reef. We stopped at three sites along the Agincourt (no resemblance to the neighbourhood in Scarborough, thankfully) coral reef.

    It was a great day for it. The crew said the dry season hasn’t been great as it’s been very windy and wavy as a result. No wind or waves today, just sun. A few people were still sea sick, but we were both fine.

    We had our phones stowed away mostly so not a ton of photos - underwater photos from the web will have to do, which definitely match what we saw. A few highlights include a sea turtle swimming directly towards and below us at the second site and a group of humpbacks feeding on the way back. Plus all the expected - thousands of tropical fish varying in sizes and colours, sea cucumbers, and the incredible coral.

    The crew said the living coral grows 0.5-1cm every year, so the huge pieces are hundreds of years old. It was surprising to see just how close the reef is to the sea level. In many places, you had to be floating completely flat at the top of the water as the reef was only an arms length away in all directions.
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  • Day 13

    Port Douglas

    August 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Relaxed day. Morning - played some tennis and spent time in the pool. Afternoon - walk along the beach, a short hike along the coast, and a late lunch and drinks in town. Meat pies and sausage rolls are super popular everywhere here. The ones in Port Douglas didn’t disappoint.

    We’re learning Australians are just as big coffee snobs with a preference to light roasts and Amy has fully bought in. Flat whites are popular, which is like a less frothy latte.
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  • Day 14

    Last day in paradise

    August 16, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    One last relaxing day, interrupted briefly by our laundry machine flooding the unit. A contractor was already onsite fixing another machine (must be a common occurrence??), so he popped by and resolved it quickly. After that, mostly reading by the pool.

    Capped the night off with the semifinal women’s FIFA match - Australia vs. England. Unfortunately Australia lost and their bronze medal match will be while we’re off the grid camping. But it’s been a fun ride following the games and even more seeing the country a buzz.

    Flying to Brisbane tomorrow morning then driving down the Sunshine Coast to Rainbow Beach. I’m having difficulty remembering to walk on the left side, let alone drive on it, so it should be interesting.
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  • Day 15

    “It’s just another beach… oh, maybe not”

    August 17, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Primarily a travel day. A bus, plane, and 3hr scenic drive through the remote east coast. At the airport, Amy joked it’s as if Canadians and Aussies are in a secret politeness contest. We’ve had several interactions that often go something like:
    - *bump into someone* Oh, sorry!
    - Don’t worry, mate. I was in your way. Sorry about that.
    - Oh, no problem. Sorry again.
    - Cheers, have a great day!

    Driving was uneventful, thankfully, though Amy did get the pleasure of the same experience my dad received when teaching me how to drive. Until I got my bearings for the lane lines, my cautious tendency was to have the half the passenger side on the left shoulder. Good thing her window wasn’t open or she’d still be flossing branches out of her teeth. Much to Amy’s exasperation, the rental car was decked out with lane assist and cruise control, which came in handy. “Can you just drive instead of letting the robot steer!?”

    It was a bit of a race to our final destination, a hostel where we’ll stay the night prior to our early morning ferry to our island camping adventure. There was a 4pm drop-dead check-in time to accommodate a briefing on the island camp rules, safety tips, and how to drive the 4x4s.

    The hostel is a hostel.. but it was only $15 more for us to have a private room with a queen bed, bathroom, and balcony. I thought this was a no brainer but must not have communicated it to Amy. The whole drive here, Amy kept hinting that it’s no big deal if we miss the check-in time - we can just book a night elsewhere. I thought this was wildly uncharacteristic, until I realized she trying to weasel out of what she thought would be sleeping next to 7 drunk 21-year-olds in bunk beds. She was pleasantly surprised when we arrived.

    Rainbow Beach - after checking in, safety briefing (don’t feed the dingos, don’t flip the vehicles), and signing several liability forms, we explored this cute, tiny town. Exhausted after a day of traveling, we almost turned around. “What’s seeing another beach worth?”. Glad we didn’t as we stumbled upon one of the more remarkable landscapes we’ve experienced.

    Carlo Sandblow - stumbled on this magnificent piece of coastline. Over many years, the wind has blown so much sand up the hill, it’s completely covered up 33 acres, almost half-pipe shaped. Enjoyed quite a remarkable sunset here to cap the night off.

    14 days in and no rain, no snakes. This will be the critical time to continue that streak for a few more days while we’re sleeping in a tent. Fingers crossed.
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  • Day 16

    K’gari / Fraser Island - Day 1

    August 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    K’gari means paradise in the indigenous language. Fraser Island is the English name, but Australia has recently made an effort to respect the original names of places. A 2 night, 3 day camping trip on the largest sand island in the world. Tent camping completely off the grid was a big change from the resort in Port Douglas.

    We were divided into 4 groups, one per off-road vehicle. Within 2 minutes, Ben was nominated as the dad of the group and had to drive. There were stretches where the sand was so soft it was quite difficult, similar to driving in lots of snow. For the most part though, it was a very unique experience and worth every minute. Others also mustered the bravery to drive and took turns.

    Lake McKenzie - huge freshwater lake in the middle of the island we visited on our first day. Amazing.

    There was about 30 people on the trip total. Strangely, we were the only ones from North America. All others were European - mostly Irish or German, but a few from the UK, France and Sweden too. A lot of them come over for 2 years before or after university to work (so mostly 20-25 year olds). If they get a job in rural Australia where the unemployment is really high, they only have to work for 3 months and, in exchange, can stay and travel for up to 2 years. Jobs sound terrible though - farming in the middle of nowhere or overnight factory shifts. Continued to get to know everyone while we cooked dinner and sat by the fire.

    Our streak quickly came to an end. Within 2 hours, we saw 2 giant snakes, one of which was very poisonous. The guide pulled it off the beach and returned it to the ocean. Should’ve listen to Derek when he warned us of all the dangerous creatures. Other creatures included a few dingos, a cain toad the size of two of fists, and a large spider a fellow camper asked for help getting out of her tent. How many people does it take to remove a big spider out of a tent? 1 Englishman, 2 Irishmen, and 2 Canadians.
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  • Day 17

    Happy Days - Day 2

    August 19, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    One of Scott’s mottos is “Happy Days”. He repeats this a lot over the radio, along with “good vibes” and “bloody beautiful”. It’s called a tag-along-tour, as he helps us get from place to place, tells us what we’re cooking, then buggers off for the most part.

    Back on the road early (well, beach, I guess). Inland on the island looks less beachy, with a lot of fauna and vegetation but you can still see the sand cover. The guide, Scott, explained the forestry history of the island. The trees are several hundreds of years old and the forestry industry was massive until the government shut it down to preserve the island. This wood supposedly built the Suez Canal. Now the main industries are tourism and fishing - lots of prawn fishing boats just off the coast.

    K’gari is known for its huge population of dingos. Apparently these are purebred dingos, which are unique as most of the others on Australia are cross-bred with the English settler’s dogs. We saw a handful. They’re highly aggressive and like to test out their territory often, and we’re supposed to respond with aggression if attacked. I have a suspicion Amy goes out wrestling them at night to assert her alpha dominance.

    Eli Creek - enjoyed the lazy river running from the springs into the ocean and bit of beach volleyball.

    North coast - saw several humpbacks and minkie whales migrating, which are apparently very playful this time of year jumping out of the water consistently.

    Champagne pools - first saltwater swim on the island. The oceans crash into the rocks and fill up the shallow dips. Water foams up a bit thus the bubbles / ‘champagne’. Saw two manta rays swimming around the pools.

    Stargazing at night from the beach was unbelievable and almost emotional. More stars than I’ve ever seen at one time.
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  • Day 18

    Day 3

    August 20, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Ben woke up to the tour guide saying “Guess who’s driving Truck 4 today, mate? You are”. Okay then. Probably related to one of the Germans nearly flipping us over yesterday afternoon. One of the Irish girls said our car motto is now “In Ben We Trust”. This company does take safety seriously, though, thankfully. Reviews for some of the others seem to indicate otherwise.

    Last night was very cold, but otherwise great weather. Packed up and cleaned camp early and we’re off. Stopped a few places along the way before getting on the ferry back to Rainbow Beach.

    Lake Carawongera - small lake inland. Surrounded by ti-trees and the oils seep into the lake. Calming and beautiful.

    Driving back to Brisbane, hopefully before dark. Ben has had plenty of driving practice the last 3 days. Hot shower, non-instant coffee, and a clean bed will be nice. Can’t complain about the food for the most part though - stir-fry, burgers, sausages, bacon, hash browns, pancakes, hot chicken sandwiches, and Amy’s fav, hot baked beans.

    The majority of the crew are off on a 14 hour night bus. Some weren’t thrilled when we mentioned our flight here was less than 2 hours and pretty cheap, but ah, they’re still super young.
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  • Day 19

    Brisbane

    August 21, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Waking up in a warm, huge bed was glorious. We both said Brisbane feels like home - a busy city similar to Toronto, but not as massive as Sydney. The apartment has a gym, pool, and sauna, which are nice bonuses. Still recharging the social and physical batteries a bit.

    Explored Brisbane most of the day. Botanic Gardens, Queen Street Mall, and the Southbank Park were highlights. Capped it off with a nice dinner.

    One thing we’ve noticed is that Aussies struggle significantly with Amy’s name. She’s got “… eye …. mee??” several times so far. Unsure if it’s an uncommon name or we’re just pronouncing it differently.
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  • Day 20

    Take it easy, land of plenty

    August 22, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Last day in Australia. Can’t believe the luck we’ve had with weather - sunny most of the time and only a few cold stretches at night. Not a drop of rain this entire trip yet, knock on wood. Some of the travellers we met camping said Melbourne has had terrible weather, including torrential downpours. Glad we didn’t include it on this go of Australia. It’ll be first on the list for next time though - maybe for the Australian Open!

    Explored Brisbane a bit more today, including Mount Coot-Tha. Insanely beautiful botanical gardens and trails.

    Off to Auckland tomorrow morning to start the road trip tour of the North Island of New Zealand.
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