Portugal 2023

May - June 2023
EVECCs, followed by diving in southern Portugal! Read more
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  • 4countries
  • 11days
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  • 13.0kkilometers
  • 12.9kkilometers
  • 24kilometers
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  • 1sea miles
  • 1kilometers
  • Leaving home for 4 weeks

    May 26, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today is the day! Finally setting off on my first international trip since February 2020 (pre-COVID and the world changing). It’s hard to imagine how its been such an extended time since leaving Canada, especially since I was bitten by the travel bug a long time ago, however my time locally has been anything but dull. Since my last adventure, graduation, moving across the country, a new puppy and many adventures on the west coast have filled my days, months, years. But now is now and today is the day! Liam dropped me off at the airport after an overnight shift and I slept all the way home. Quick multi-day layover in Ontario to see family, go to Alyssa Yu’s wedding and then back to the airport for my next stop - Portugal!Read more

  • Day 2

    Layover? NEVER!

    May 31, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Now on to Portugal! Time to meet my friends in Porto and learn from the smartest veterinary criticalists in the world for the next 3 days.

    The flight from Toronto to Frankfurt left 1.5 hours late, my layover was 2 hr on the nose. When approaching our destination, I asked the stewardess if she thought I would make my next flight, she gave me a less than 50% chance of making it as I would have to go through customs, and change terminals before even being able to search for my gate. By the time I was off the plane, I had 15 minutes until my gate closed. Thinking positive, and quick thoughts, I saw this as just another race, a 15 minute qualifier. I remained polite as I squeezed onto a bus, ran up a flight of stairs, and said excuse me too many times to count. The positive thinking worked, as 15 minutes on the nose, I arrived at my gate, albeit a little sweaty and out of breath.

    A shock to no one, my bag did not have my competitive nature and alas did not make the connection. Luckily, the next flight from Frankfurt to Porto arrived at the same time as my coworkers from Vancouver. The universe sharing in the good vibes to give this trip an exciting start.
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  • Day 6

    Club, nother club, plane, no sleep

    June 4, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today started in a club in Porto dancing to Gimme Gimme Gimme and with 1-2 hrs of sleep and wicked hangovers, somehow ended in Faro. Flying hungover with minimal sleep is one thing, but an Uber zipping around the Algarve limestone tile streets is another. The waves of nausea forced me to only look out the window at the horizon. Rolling red sandstone hills dotted with cork, orange and olive trees stretched away to the north. Glimpses of the aquamarine sea to the south between palm trees, blooming cacti and white washed houses with red roofs.

    Once we arrived in Albuferia, we had our Uber driver drop us close to our AirBnB around 10AM, unfortunately for us, we couldn’t get access to it until 3PM, and hauling our suitcases to the beach in 30*C sunshine with minimal sleep and wicked hangovers was not in the itinerary. Instead, Vanessa had the idea for us to sneak into the nearest resort, which was quite successful. Not only were we able to enjoy their air conditioning, but we were even able to sleep in their plush leather couches for a couple of hours. As we left for our next stop prior to getting out BnB, the resort staff were even kind enough to mail our post cards!

    Next stop was the oasis of the Al-Gharb Coffee Roasters - endless iced coffees, delicious food, and the perfect spot to read in the shade of an olive tree helped the next 3 hours pass by quickly. The staff were kind, and part of the fun was watching them interact with the kids of guests. Always with big smiles, and enthusiasm to join in on any games, including when one toddler began taking his trike for a ride between the tables and down the stairs, much to our chagrin. Well fed, well caffeinated and on the path to recovery from last night, we headed to our new spot.

    Our BnB was a lovely 2 bedroom apartment with 180 degree views of the sea, and the best part, it was right next door to the dive shop!

    A quick shower, and outfit change into our bathing suits and we were headed for the beach! A lazy afternoon ensued with lounging in the sun, floating in the gentle waters and reading. We stopped at a beachfront cafe for shrimp pizza and a bottle of green wine.

    On our way back we stopped at the SuperMarche to grab breakfast foods and lots of snacks for our big days of diving ahead.

    For sunset, we headed back down to the water, this time to explore the sandstone cliffs separating our “New Town” beach Oura from the “Old Town”. What started out as a simple stroll along the beach, quickly became a real hike. Unfortunately beach sandals are not appropriate footwear and dodging cacti became that much more threatening. We scaled the sandstone cliffs at one end of Oura an zig-zagged our way along the coastline. Many beautiful flowering succulents bloomed on either side of the well worn path along the cliffs edge. The sun was setting, turning the cliffs to a fiery orange and the sea to a deep purple. As we rounded the corner to Old Town, innumerable twinkling lights came into view along the opposite cliff face illustrating the other side of the bay. At this point it was quite dark and well past when we should have headed home. We hiked further up the cliffs to try to get back to a road, only to have to scale down again through a cacti patch. Both of us emerged unscathed, but more than ready for bed.
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  • Day 7

    Scuba x5, Diver

    June 5, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Our day started early, getting to the dive shop for 8AM. Jo and Steve quickly outfitted us and we had our BCDs set up with enough tanks for 2 dives in their van within 30 minutes. Jo, a late 40 something, absolute badass woman was going to be our dive master for the day. She had come to Albuferia 18 years ago and after Steve taught her to dive, she then went on to become the highest certified diver in the Algarve region! I felt confident exploring new waters with her as our guide. On route to the marina, our excitement was palpable. Two Swiss women (one originally from my current North Vancouver neighbourhood!) and an older British man joined us.

    The first dive site was only 10 minutes from the marina. It was called Pedra do Alto, max depth 16M, with 12+ meters of visibility and waters of 18*C. It was beautiful. We were joined by playful octopi, large squid (usually only seen 1-2 times a year), and innumerable tropical fish. The squid came so close to me that I had to move so it wouldn’t hit me! Vanessa celebrated her first dive fully certified and we explored under the waves for almost a full hour. The next site, Rocky, was just a ways further down the reef and had a max depth of 12M, 12+ meters visibility and the water warmed to 19*C. Another beautiful site with lots of eels, more octopi and one shy squid. Our team eventually ascended back to the surface. Everyone’s face was plastered with a smile as we chatted about all the exciting animals we encountered. A quick ride back to shore in the zodiac and we were back in the van.

    Due to inclement bad weather, a tour later in the week was moved up to this afternoon, making this day filled to the brim with adventure. We had a huge lunch, then grabbed an Uber back to the marina for the next step in our busy itinerary.

    We took a two hulled boat 40 minutes down the coastline to the Benagil cave region. Here sandstone cliffs are carved into huge caves, caverns, tunnels and where the stone is almost completely washed away, huge stand alone columns of red in the sea.

    We quickly transferred from our boat to standup paddles boards and we meandered our way into the famous Benagil cave. ************

    After soaking in the warm waters within the cave and taking innumerable photos, it was back on the standup paddle boards to further explore the coast line. We went through a cave, under many arches and cruised for over a kilometre before catching our boat back.

    As we were just setting off, dark shapes on the horizon caught my eye, I pointed to the driver and asked “are those dolphins?”, he quickly put the boat into gear and zipped over to where I had gestured. A pod of 8 dolphins ** began to playfully circle our boat. They came within touching distance and seemed to be just as excited to see us as we were them.

    When they were done with us and set off further our to sea, we turned around and headed back to the marina. Once again, exhausted and ready for bed. But first dinner! We had a quick bite at a pizza spot with lots of local sangria . Then off to bed for another day of diving tomorrow!
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  • Day 8

    Cuddles with a CuttleFish

    June 6, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    Today began the same as the day before, up early to the dive shop! Excited to see what this day would bring. Steve was our dive master today. Quick to get out to miss the bad weather, we were in the water by 9:30 at a site called Santa, the water was still nice and warm with awesome visibility! We stayed shallow at 12M.

    As we descended down the anchor line, many small sunfish appeared out of the blue depths to come investigate us. Their funny way to swim with only their dorsal and ventral fin, no tail, makes them non-mistakable. Exploring around the reef turned very rewarding as we came upon more octopi, and squid. We all settled down to the white sand bottom out in front of the octopus’ garden and Steve gentle tapped his fingers on the roof of the cave. The octopus reached out with one of its 8 suctioned cupped arms to grasp him by the wrist and tried, luckily unsuccessfully, to pull him into the cave. Octopi are incredibly intelligent, curious animals. Both Steve and Jo remarked that octopi would take over the world if their lifespan was any longer. Octopi live an average of 3 years and female octopi are some of the most devoted mothers. When she has her eggs, she stops hunting and starves herself to ensure they are constantly being guarded. When the eggs finally hatch, her emaciated body is their first meal. Not something I would ever be willing to do for my potential future offspring to say the least!

    This dive, I finally figured out my buoyancy and my oxygen lasted over 1 hour underwater, extending my underwater exploration to the longest of the group. Perfected weightlessness transforms you into an aquatic animal, who’s natural habitat is 20m underwater. This serenity with the environment around you entices animals to interact with you. One of the more elusive creatures of the Portugal reefs is the ** cuttlefish.

    Masters of camouflage, these short skirted, long tentacled creatures were something I desperately hoped to see on this trip. Luckily, I was rewarded and between the two dives today, we saw at least 4 different cuttlefish. The first appeared in front of us as though he was one of the divers in our group. He emerged from his hiding spot and began to follow Vanessa before stopping and coming to eye level with me. I was able to be within inches of his tiger striped, ever colour changing body. His tentacles reached towards me and when I reached back, he suddenly released a jet of ink and water and zipped across the reef. He stayed across a small opening of white sand from us and hovered like a futuristic car as we floated on with the current away from him. The next were much less curious about us, but equally as colourful, perfectly blending in with the sand or reef, depending what was adjacent to them.

    When we came up from our second dive, the wind had really picked up. We had to battle 1.6M swells to get back in the boat. I was so giddy at seeing the cuttlefish that I rode the waves as if some fun ride at the fair, and not powerful crushing strength of Mother Nature. Back in the safety of the boat, I was able to see the waves for their true dangerous force, and held on tight as we sped back to the marina. Many tickle bellies along the way as we launched off the waves.

    Back to the AirBnB for lunch, a shower and then to the beach. The crashing waves lulled us to sleep until the sand fleas came out and chased us away from the water.

    We grabbed dinner at an amazing restaurant called **** and had a bowl of delicious octopus ****. After splitting a bottle of wine, we were ready to get back on the “horse” and explore the Albuferia nightlife. Located near to where we were staying was “the strip”. A stretch of road 4-5 blocks in length with over 40 bars. We started out with karaoke, where Mr Brightside got us up dancing and singing along with a group of 17 year olds from Amsterdam. We chatted further with them, turns out, European high school exams just let out, so the vast majority of the bar goers were almost 10 years our junior. For the first time in my life, I felt too old for the party. That didn’t prevent us from making a few more stops along the way back to our place, pulled into one bar or another by the music that was playing. These clubs did not hold the same addicting electricity of the Porto nightlife so we retired to bed much earlier than expected, in bed by 1AM!
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  • Day 9

    4x4 Adventures in Alte

    June 7, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today started slow, FINALLY! A much deserved break from the packed itineraries of previous days, we slowly made our way out for brunch in the Old Town. We grabbed gelato, then explored the white washed buildings and churches of the town on the hill. Only remains of the original Arab castle remain, destroyed in the **** Earthquake, as was a massive portion of Portugal. We explored the remains of the “motherchruch” - again destroyed in the earthquake with only pieces of the collection remaining. Nonetheless, the carcass of this once mighty place of worship was still breathtaking. The Portuguese carved wooden altars and figures, and painted them, so the pieces were colourful and well preserved in the dry heat.

    The next stop of the early afternoon were the Old Town beaches - Praia do Peneco and Praia dos Pescadores. We took an outdoor elevator down to the warm white sand beaches then at the other end, took an escalator back up!

    We grabbed another gelato and waited for our last minute 4x4 countryside tour to begin. Tidor, a Slovakia man, pulled to the side of the road in a 37 year old green Jeep. His excitement was infectious and only
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