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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    Dia 28

    28 Heading North to BA

    3 de dezembro de 2023, Argentina ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    A good meal of the local king crab - excellent !
    Home to hostel for three hour wait ! Some wine and a local football game -Racing - to watch on someone’s computer plus some highlights of Forest’ games.
    It’s a late night or rather an early morning bus trip at 3am.
    We have done our last trip on the truck and last camp after we heard the leader sell the next five days of wild camping through pretty dull landscape and no sights promised on a 5am start and 5pm finish!
    We have to do a final crossing into Chile and then it’s all Argentina on the way north .
    We catch the bus dawn by the docks and awaken for customs at 730, retracing our previous route from the truck and crossing Puerto Progreso . Unfortunately a delay in the ferry crossing of over an hour before we can get back to another border crossing and eventually Rio Gallegos.
    We make the bus and then await the next …a full dull day so sone more from yesterday !    Leia mais

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    Dia 27

    27 Boat ,Beagle Channel and penguins

    2 de dezembro de 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    After a few beers we pop in the Irish pub to say farewell to one of the good guys who is leaving tonight but we hadn’t been told of the pub as we’re still the odd couple and outsiders and not the young guns and originals ! This tour attracts an odd selection of folk but who cares ?
    At the hostel I have a disturbing conversation from one of the originals / older chap who has been isolated ! He’s pretty down and going to spend the next five days on the bus with four women - not something he’s looking forward to !
    In the morning we discover that the young original gang have had an argument about wine ! Weird !

    Back In the normal world we take the 9am cruise down the channel to see the penguins!
    It’s actually more than just the odd butler-like birds as there are Seagulls , cormorants, sea lions , and the odd albatross.
    We pass the Faro / lighthouse and Gable island in mid channel which was one of the first old estancias due to fertile sandy glacial soil . It’s a six hour round trip down the Glaciated passage of the Beagle channel joining Pacific with Atlantic .
    The highlight is Isla Martillo or Hammer island home of the penguins including today one king penguin! Another isolated guy !
    The weather has been good again - not too much of anything !
    Back in town it’s a quiet Sunday afternoon looking for some bar , some wi fi to kill the time pre this evenings vigil …3am !!!    Leia mais

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    1
    Dia 27

    26 Usharia 2 and the train to the end

    2 de dezembro de 2023, Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Our train is 930 . What time do we need to wake up ? What’s the plan ? Well we discussed it last night over Amrits vodka , red wine and deformed pizza .
    Yes it’s an earlier start than planned it’s 630!
    After breakfast at 8 we catch a cab to the train station just out of town to join El tren del fin del mondo! It’s a selection of small trains that take people on the old route to a penal colony . There is a mid day point to view waterfalls and be offered the photo that was taken with some convicts at the train station’s entrance . The train goes just into the national park Tierra del Fuego and after a short journey down the valley we are dropped off . There is a short walk down to the coast and the Beagle Channel and the post office at the end of the world . There are hoards of folk queuing to send postcards to friends!
    There are some fantastic vistas across the channel dotted with islands and backed by the snow capped mountains.
    We opt for a walk of 7 k along the coast to enlarge the views and see the park . The sun shines all is good .
    A walk back to ensure we catch the last train at 4pm
    Back in town for beer , bank and bad news for Forest! Bah - it was a good day !    Leia mais

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    Dia 25

    25 Ushuaia day 1

    30 de novembro de 2023, Pimentão ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    Well the last bush camp and packing that tent !
    We head for the border to return to Argentina and cross fairly easily !
    Another blue sky windy day . We skirt the Atlantic and the Tierra del Fuego archipelago .
    After a few hours driving g through lowland plains trees emerge as we approach our destination and the mountains reappear .Its a twisty road through the mountains that gets us to town,
    Ushuaia is the southerly most town in the world and it’s grown but still colourfully attractive if uninspired.
    The hostel looks good but there is work to do !
    Boat trip booked
    Bus to BA booked
    Trip to train at end of world tomorrow !
    Time to get some food and get a sleep in a bed !
    It’s a funky town - time capsule to old peoples, artisans but strangely no mention of the previous indigenous peoples in the stuff    Leia mais

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    1
    Dia 25

    24 South to Ushuaia

    30 de novembro de 2023, Pimentão ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    We bid farewell ( with a few drinks ) to some of the crew and hope to catch them in BA but some are getting off for good!
    A restful night and shower- breakfast farewells and back to the truck - it’s not a bus we are repeatedly told !
    Sun is out but drizzly ! It’s a sad farewell to most of the Andes.
    The young gang are happy to be reunited before they all separate after Usharia before regrouping at BA- Christmas breaks out with music on the speakers and the decorations are up !
    It’s a quiet trip - a bit of zip trouble and some alpaca sec spices the journey .
    We skirt the Pacific which has emerged from the Archipelago area of Western Chile past old 1880s red rooted , rusted estancias and wrecked ships .
    We take a very wind blown ferry at Puerto Progreso!
    We have to wait for a ferry and we bump into a bikers convention / 30 bikes doing Alaska t T. del Fuego! British organised plus a few yanks ! That would something John would have liked!
    Thought I was cooking tonight but looks like someone is stepping in - so that be end of it !
    The afternoon is scrub all the way …..flat rolling plain!
    We miss the penguins and camp for the last time.
    It’s cold and windy
    It’s another younger generation takeover of cooking but so what ,it’s their bus and we are just guests    Leia mais

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    1
    Dia 24

    23 - W walk 4 - Lago Grey

    29 de novembro de 2023, Pimentão ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    5am ? what’s the weather ? We need to be up and back by 5pm latest for the boat back !
    A good night in the pub but we are awake at 5am but it’s raining heavily and windy !
    Back to bed , however by 7 it’s clear so we head up and it’s a fairly easy walk whilst battling the wind !
    Two hours up and after passing two lakes -one strangely has icebergs floating - and we reach the glacier . It’s 6km down and of course up if we try to bc reach the refuge / campsite . We decide a view from the mirador is the best option with the wind at gale force on the top ! The glacier which is steely grey in this light soon is becoming covered in mist - we have timed it right ! The gathering storm and wind will probably claim the view .
    A gentle walk home and we’re back in lodge by 11 - the afternoon is free , and thankfully the sun is shining !
    A quiet afternoon sitting around waiting for the boat across Pehoe lake at 5pm . Bit of a mix up on travellers / half have gone early / half on time and one later !
    We have to sit and wait for final boat -it’s 7.30pm after a thirty minute crossing !
    Late supper as it’s a drive over to Puerto Natales    Leia mais

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    Dia 23

    22 W walk 3 -Miradors, Valle de Frances

    28 de novembro de 2023, Pimentão ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Early start ! It’s raining! After camping above ground and in relative comfort and warm .From here at the French station we are going to the Italian station - where we can leave our backpacks !
    It’s a sunny day but the forecast is rain and lots of it from about 2 or 3pm.
    It’s a relatively easy flat hike to the station point to see the glacier ! Throughout the morning we hear huge thunderous roars as pieces of the glacier fall hundreds of feet to screw slope below.
    We eventually get to the top but the view is partly obscured by clouds and mist !
    An easy hike back to Italy for lunch at 1230 and the sun shines .
    We set off for our camping spot at Paine Grande !
    A funny thing happens on our walk of 8km to camp ! It rains and there is wind and torrential rain lots of it .It’s like King Lear and the blasted heath and I’m the fool - cagoule plus plastic poncho to keep me relatively dry .
    Wet wet wet !
    Andrew discovers all his clothes are not weatherproof- he’s cold , damp and not good ! He hugs the tea urn for heat ! I take comfort in beer and he is heading for showers !
    Tonight looks like a drinking night - the tent is there but everyone is damp ! And then at 4pm everything is sunny but still windy!
    Supper - a meal at 7 - then beer ! And the pisco of course !
    Tomorrow it’s the final leg And weather looks bad ! Got to do it ! Early start? 5am ?    Leia mais

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    Dia 22

    21 W walk 2 - Going East !

    27 de novembro de 2023, Pimentão ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    A good night’s sleep we awake to a great view of the towers before heading east !
    It’s a slow start and we head back on the trail but this time with backpacks ! It’s a blue sky day and it’s warm again !
    They say this walk to the French station is easy and flat and it is but … there is a false ending the Cuernos station which is still 3 km from the final camp station and a fair bit is up hill !
    Most of the day we skirt the lake going up and down and never really get to h too close to it . The views up are of the rear of mountain which is partly occluded but now again the glacier appears . To the left are views of the azure blue lake. It’s a very pleasant hike , with lots of green vegetation . Now and again huge erratics pepper the landscape and provide photo stops .
    Lago Nordenskjold is a very big lake !
    Lunch on top of a ledge overlooking the lake, I am surrounded by small birds and an odd hawk waiting for scraps- it feels like velociraptors circling its prey from Jurassic Park.
    A light time beer with a group of Indians reveals that they were guested by two pumas early this morning- his video from
    The safety of the tent is quite a sight ! An American walker with a big lens shows us his snap of the beasts !
    The last leg feels much more than 2 km and it feels all up hill !
    We check in , another meal is prepared and we’re done !
    Tomorrow the is changing we’re going to get some rain and 40 km winds -oh joy ! The walk is longer but we may be able to leave our backpacks for part of it !
    It’s early to bed for a 5am , beat the weather start we hope ! Tonight’s its tents on stilts in the trees - padded floor though!    Leia mais

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    111
    Dia 21

    20 W walk 1 - Torres del Paine

    26 de novembro de 2023, Pimentão ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    After a good night in town, we’re back in our luxurious cabin and tomorrow we’re doing a similar climb to El Chalten ! Again ? Hope it’s easier !
    We start at 6am and it’s an hours drive and we are dropped off near the east end of the W trek ! We’re doing Torres del Paine !
    It’s a10km up and it’s a stiff climb up but easier than before !
    We hike in groups and it’s up and down and up and down !
    I pass a couple and I suddenly realise there are legs hanging out of their backpack ! And she’d had a pair of legs hanging out too ! They are hiking up here with their kids ! At the mid way point we spy a big bird in the sky ! It’s a condor !
    I have a quiet day on my own and walk at my own pace and get up there to discover a beautiful blue lake and the towers above me ! It’s fantastic and there is no wind on the shadow ! A fantastic view of the towers standing above the lake , grey with a hint of amber - they sort of glow when the sun catches them in the evening!
    We started at 830 and we finished about 430 ! Time for beer to wait for the others .
    A great day !
    After the group gets together after beers we head off to the red roofed old estate farmhouse which is our hostel !
    Food beer and wine!
    The weather has been fantastic - blue and not too windy !    Leia mais

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  • Ant TravelsPatagonia
    2
    Dia 20

    19 To Chile and W Walk

    25 de novembro de 2023, Pimentão ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    A good nights sleep , great clouds last night too ! Weather looking good for the start . Our friends’ plans seem to have come through and they will leave after the walk to bus to the final stop to get their trip to Antarctica.
    Yesterday was a great day but today is going the judged on border crossing time !
    What are those men looking for in that field on the middle of nowhere ?
    Argentina is a waiting game of 2 hours ! That was the Easy bit and then Chile takes another 2 Hrs !
    We reach Puerto Natales by 5 pm and tomorrow it’s the W !
    Sunny but bloody windy ! Four nights , five days walking !
    Forest lose unfortunately !
    And Rory is ready !

    Those weird statues from town ? The Selk'nam, also known as the Onawo or Ona people,are an indigenous people in the Patagonian region of southern Argentina and Chile, including the Tierra del Fuego islands. They were one of the last native groups in South America to be encountered by migrant Europeans in the late 19th century. In the mid-19th century, there were about 4000 Selk'nam; by 1919 there were 297, and by 1930 just over 100.    Leia mais

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