Chile
Región de Valparaíso

Here you’ll find travel reports about Región de Valparaíso. Discover travel destinations in Chile of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

157 travelers at this place:

  • Day20

    Voller Vorfreude, die Stadt zu verlassen, packten wir unsere 7 Sachen und machten uns auf zur Campingvermietstation. Ein anderer Traveller schenkte uns Wolldecken, Kissen und Küchenzubehör, da seine Reise im Van nun vorbei war - für uns konnte das nächste Abenteuer starten.
    Wir hatten uns das Abenteuer anders vorgestellt!
    Direkt um die Ecke wurde uns ein Supermarkt empfohlen, wo wir unsere Vorräte anlegten und uns über die riesige Auswahl an frischem Obst uns Gemüse freuten.
    Ja. Zurück im Camper dann der Schock: Keine Stunde im Besitz des Campers und all unsere Besitztümer weg - verschwunden - geklaut.
    So lief dann der Tag etwas anders als geplant. Zurück zur Vermietstation - zur Polizeistelle - zur Internationalen Polizei - zur Schweizerischen Botschaft - und schliesslich in die riesige SchoppingMall um doch wenigstens ein zweites Outfit, Unterwäsche, eine Jacke und ein Handyladegerät zu kaufen.
    ☆ die Schweizer Botschaft hat eine TRAUMHAFTE Aussicht!
    ☆ die Städte Valparaíso und Viña del Mar lassen wir links liegen - sind es doch die Städte mit der höchsten Kriminalitätsrate in Chile.
    ☆ Übernachtung Nr.1 auf einer überwachten Copec Tankstelle - für heute reichts ;-)
    ☆ Morgen gehts dann aber endlich an den Strand!
    ☆ Schlimmster geklauter Gegenstand: Ronjas Lernbücher!
    ☆ Dümmster geretteter Gegenstand: Zauberwürfel!
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  • Day21

    Früh waren wir wach, da auf der Tankstelle Trubel herrschte. Wir brachen auf Richtung Meer und versuchten unser Glück, doch die angebliche Strasse war eine Sandpiste und dann bald nicht mehr zu befahren für uns. Zu Fuss machten wir uns auf den Weg, doch wir gaben auch dies bald auf. Statt Frühstück am einsamen Strand gabs dann Brothäppchen mit Hummus gefüttert von Ronja für die Fahrerin Mélissa.
    Kurz vor Maitencillo fanden wir gegen 09.30 Uhr dann ein Plätzchen direkt am Strand, spazierten, kletterten über die Felsen und alberten rum. Wir sind bald schon Partnerakrobatik Profis - und es landete ordentlich viel Sand im Gesicht.
    Später machten wir uns auf, um die letzten wichtigen Dinge einzukaufen (Duschtüechli, Shampoo, Zahnpasta, Block und Stift) und fanden dann gleich auch den perfekten Übernachtungsplatz.
    Wir schnippelten Gemüse direkt am Strand und kochten unser Thai-Znacht bevor wir mit einem Glas Wein den Sonnenuntergang genossen.
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  • Day278

    Valparaiso

    February 8 in Chile

    A short (1 ½ hour) bus trip took us to this important port city that’s also a world heritage site. Before the Panama Canal was completed, this was a major stopping point for ships bringing products to the Americas from all over the world. While it’s still quite an active port, it’s lost much of its’ former wealth which is captured in the city’s many beautiful, crumbling, old buildings and villas built into the hillsides.
    Famous today for murals and graffiti art, it was an interesting place to walk around up many steep and windy steps, streets and with occasional rides on funiculars. We’re so glad we didn’t try to drive here, it would have been challenging as all of our rental cars have been manuals and the streets are super narrow, steep and windy.
    Our hotel was in a restored villa and we loved our room with its’ wide-planked wood floors, 15+ foot high ceilings and a view out over the bay. We also enjoyed some very fresh fish and delicious salads at cafes and overall preferred the city to Santiago. The only downside was all the free-range dogs meant having to be very careful about where you walked as there was dog doo everywhere (this let your dogs roam free thing is the only real unpleasant part of Argentina/Chile so far).
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  • Day19

    Valparaiso, Chile

    January 22 in Chile

    Wow. This was a handful. Valparaiso was a plethora of color, mouth-watering food smells, graffiti, noise, litter (no, garbage), the most beautiful fruits and vegetables I’ve ever seen, cold mornings, hot afternoons, dogs (everywhere) and a feeling of a place that has multiple layers of life.
    It has been the home of many artists, poets and writers. It is clearly a place that promotes free expression. There is graffiti everywhere that intermittently transitions to beautiful, colorful murals. There are mosaics imbedded in the thousands of stairs that climb from the waterfront up into the neighborhoods that are filled with candy-colored houses. Walking along, you find many artistic expressions that are totally made of recycled or found objects.
    It is a city that has had it’s share of problems. It is in the earthquake zone, which is evident in some of the older, very elegant buildings that now sport crumbling facades. They also suffered some difficult economic times when the Panama Canal opened and they no longer enjoyed the commerce that being a major port for ships coming around Cape Horn brought.
    Valparaiso is also quite near the Casablanca Valley which is one of Chile’s main wine-producing regions.
    We had the opportunity to visit a couple of wineries and do some wine-tasting. One of the wineries said they produced 1,000,000 bottles a year, yet they are considered a boutique winery. The climate here is somewhere between that of California and France which makes it an ideal place for growing grapes.
    Jeff and I also sampled some very typical Chilean foods. Empanadas with shrimp and cheese, a pie that had beef, chicken, black olives, raisins and a cornbread topping, and something called a “completo”. A completo is a hot dog (?) on a bun that has fresh tomatoes, sauerkraut, mayonnaise and avocado. McDonalds came to Valparaiso, but only lasted a year before moving out. Turns out the people liked both the taste and the price of their completo better.
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  • Day9

    Valparaiso, Day 2

    February 24 in Chile

    We began our second day in Valpo with a visit to La Sebastiana, Pablo Neruda’s third house. Like the first two, this house was a reflection of his personality — quirky, filled with collected objects, and built to entertain. The views from this house are incredible, sitting high atop Cerro Florida. From the living room, the bedroom, and his study, all of Valpo stretches out below — ports, houses, hills and valleys. His favorite chair sits near a window, and the dining room has views which allowed Neruda and his guests to enjoy the fireworks set off each New Year’s Eve. And, of course, there was a separate bar area, from which he dispensed libations of his own creation. Honestly, he was probably a very difficult guy, but his zest for life and embrace of his friends is something that I can truly get behind. Arie was really taken with his attitude, and I think that building a bar at the River House is a future project!

    After leaving the house, we began winding our way down the hills of Valpo. We happened upon a little macaroon store, called Septima, and stopped for coffee and a snack. While Maya’s macaroons are better, the combinations of flavors was quite unusual. We enjoyed the stop and soldiered on down the hills.

    As we descended, we saw a huge variety of murals. Again, some of the art is stunning and the playful attitude that they bring to Valpo is totally infectious.

    No trip to Valparaiso is complete without riding the Ascensors, which are a cross between a funicular and an elevator. These contraptions, which were built in the very early 1900s, travel up and down the hills, allowing passengers to traverse parts of the city, while avoiding a few staircases. We took advantage of this mode of transportation whenever possible, but frequently found ourselves at the Ascensor Reina La Victoria, which was built in 1902. At the top fo this ascensor is a slide which is enjoyed by children and adults alike, including Arie.

    We have enjoyed Valpo and I totally understand why people from across the country and the globe choose to settle here.
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  • Day8

    A walk through Valparaiso

    February 23 in Chile

    Hills. So many hills. Did I say that there were lots of hills? Valparaiso is built into the side of series of hills. Everything is located either on a hill, or in valley. There are very, very few streets which go across the hills, so you typically have to walk down one hill, in order to walk up the next hill. Unfortunately, a two dimensional map does not give you any idea whether a street is uphill or downhill. So, when you set out towards a destination, you might find yourself having to go downhill, and then up hill, just to get across the hill. All of this is a long way of saying that there are a whole lot of hills, and sightseeing can give you a darn good workout.

    We started with a free tour with “Tours for Tips.” We used the same group in Santiago. The guides wear red and white stripped shirts, which have name tags saying “Wally,” which is apparently the the Chilean version of “Waldo” from the “Where’s Waldo” books that we liked when the kids were little. CJ, our guide, told us that he was into Metallica and WWE. A rather odd group of interests, but I’m sure that being personable increases the tips at the end. He led us around two of the hills in Valpo — Cerro Carcel (prison hill) and Cerro Miraflores. We learned about migration to Valpo, the growth of the city, and the history of street art in the town. As you walk around, you see graffiti (which is just a few lines), tags (which is a symbol for an artist) and murals. Some of the murals are small, but many of them are across the sides of multi-story buildings. The largest one is currently being painted, and it goes up the side of a 20 story building. We got to spend some time watching them paint it from a scaffolding. As you walk around, you begin to recognize certain artists. Apparently, some muralists travel across the globe, and others are more locally oriented. Between the murals, and the brightly colored houses, Valpo is a riot of color. And, when you add in the views of the hills, and the ocean, it is a total feast for the eyes.

    Speaking of feasts, we had our best meal yet. We asked our hotel for a recommendation, and they suggested a small restaurant called Apice. It was located close to our hotel, so not too many hills had to be traversed. Like the upscale restaurant in San Pedro, the chef offers two choices for each of three courses. And, we maximized our sampling options by choosing one to have everything on the menu. For the first course I had a turmeric ceviche. It was really more like a shrimp soup, with turmeric and it was quite tasty. Arie had scallops. I didn’t taste it, but he made happy sounds as he cleaned his dish, so apparently it was quite yummy. We both had rockfish for the main. Mine had a curry sauce and a side dish of rice with dried fruits. Arie’s was an Italian preparation, with a balsamic reduction and the creamiest polenta that I’ve ever eaten. For dessert we had a chocolate creme brulee with passionfruit sorbet, and caramelized peaches with a crumble and dulce de leche ice cream. We accompanied this with a lovely Chilean Pinot. Delightful.
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  • Day306

    Valparaiso, Chile

    March 15 in Chile

    After a stunning bus ride through the Andes, Whit and I made it to Chile and back to the Pacific ocean! Our first stop was the artsy coastal city of Valparaiso, think Wellington or San Francisco. The 'cerros' (hills) of the city, where most of the population live, rise up out of the ocean they are remarkably easy to get lost in - both literally and metaphorically. The narrow cobbled streets wind their way upwards while hundreds of twisting and turning walkways and staircases give you picturesque views of the coast. There are colourful graffiti murals around every corner and buskers fill the streets with their Spanish music. Valparaiso is a wonderful place.

    We did a walking tour of Valparaiso, learning about its history as a key port town during the California goldrush. We also spent a day on the beach relaxing, watching a sea lion colony fight amongst themselves, and an evening out singing kareoke. We now head to Chile's capital city, Santiago.
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  • Day7

    "I confess I have lived . . "

    February 22 in Chile

    We left the Atacama Desert, and drove back to Calama, where we boarded a plane to Santiago. After a quick flight, we grabbed our rental car and headed for Valparaiso. On the way, we planned to stop at the second of Neruda’s three homes, which is located in Isla Negra (the third is in Valparaiso).

    The drive from Santiago to Isla Negra is about 1-1/2 hours. Leaving the city takes relatively little time, and you are soon surrounded by small towns and lots of fields. This is the heart of the Chilean wine country. The valley in which many of the grapes are grown is called Casablanca. We decided to stop at a small vineyard that our guide in Santiago had recommended, but GPS failed us and we ended upon in the middle of nowhere. So, we pressed on to Isla Negra.

    Neruda’s house at Isla Negra is located in a small beachside community. Since it is summer vacation at the moment, the beaches were filled with umbrellas and families enjoying a nice day. The beaches here are small, and pretty crowded.

    This house is called Casa de Isla Negra, and it sits right on the beach. Like La Chascona, his home in Santiago, this house was built to his specifications and is a series of small rooms filled with his many and varied treasures. He was a huge collector, and particularly liked ship prows of women (there are half a dozen in his living room), old bottles, musical instruments, pipes, oversized shoes, and sea shells. In fact, he collected so many shells that there is an entire room at Isla Negra that was built for the purpose of housing about half of his shell collection (the other half was given to a museum in Santiago). He was also quite a dandy, with a large collection of hats, costumes, and the tuxedo that he wore to accept the Nobel Prize. And, he loved to entertain, and had a bar in this house which was decorated to look like a French bistro, complete with tables. In the rafters of the room he carved the names of many of his friends, including Garcia Lorca. His bedroom was above the bar, so he oft said that he liked to sleep near his friends. He is buried at Isla Negra, and his death remains a huge controversy. In 1973, Neruda was suffering from prostate cancer. A few days after Allende was assasinated, Neruda was taken to the hospital. No one thought that his death was imminent. Six days later, he called he wife and claimed that he had been given a shot and was now in great pain. Six hours later he was dead. At the time, it was suspected that he was given some sort of toxin which caused his death. The theory was that Neruda was planning to flee the country, and lead a government in exile, in opposition to Pinochet, and that Pinochet had him killed. But, there was no evidence, and Pinochet had just risen to power, so no action was taken. In 2013, a judge ordered the exhumation of Neruda’s remains. In 2015, the government announced that it was “highly probable” that a third party was responsible for his death. In 2017, 16 scientists rejected the cause of death which was noted on his death certificate — cancer — and indicated that there was evidence of a cultivated bacteria which could have caused his death, but the investigation continues.

    Upon his death, a book of poetry was pushed called “I confess I have lived.” It is probably his most widely read book, and details the extraordinary life that he lived.

    After taking in the house, we returned to the car and drove to Valparaiso. We came in the back way, over the top of one of the hills. The area that we drove through was very poor, with many houses in disrepair. (We later discovered that the cost of rebuilding in Valpo can be prohibitive, so houses are often abandoned and new homes are found.). We wound our way down the hill, with me guiding and Arie muttering about “death by GPS.” We finally arrived at our hotel, Casa Gallo, which is located on Cerro Allegre. (Cerro means “hill,” and there are 44 hills in Valpo.). The hotel is lovely, and extremely well-situated. (We must give a big thanks to Reyna McKinnon and Sophia Cross, who gave us lots of info about Valpo and what part of town to stay in.). After dropping our bags in the room, we made our way to the rooftop deck to admire the view. It was just gorgeous, as we looked across the hills and valleys, which are filled with brightly colored houses.

    For dinner, we went to a restaurant called Cafe Turri, which has a fantastic view of the port. We really enjoyed watching the sun set, and the twinkling lights of the city. My dinner was fine, but Arie’s was fantastic. He started with carpaccio pulpo— paper thin slices (albeit cooked) of octopus. I can’t figure out how they were bound together, but the taste was delicious. For dinner, he had Conger Eel Soup (caldillo de congrio). He chose this because it was a favorite of Neruda’s . . .in fact, Neruda wrote a poem about the soup, which included the recipe. (In addition to being a poet, a politician and an architect, Neruda enjoyed entertaining and often created new recipes for his friends.). The poem has step by step directions for making the soup, and ends with this line: “And to table come newly wed the savors of land and sea, that in this dish you may know heaven.” The soup was fantastic, heavenly even — a rich broth, with a large piece of eel at the center and small chunks of potatoes. Arie announced that he wanted to try to make this at home. I’m all for it, but not sure where he is going to find conger eel . . .
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  • Day46

    Valparaiso/Santiago

    March 22, 2017 in Chile

    Von Mendoza geht es im Bus weiter nach Valparaiso.
    Diesmal ist es nicht bloß eine weitere Fahrt mit Unterbrechung an der argentinisch-chilenischen Grenze, sondern eine eigene Attraktion. Wir fahren durch die Andenkette, vorbei an blauen Lagunen und einer Vielzahl an Skiliften, die im Winter mehr zu tun haben als jetzt.
    Von anderen Reisenden haben wir den Tipp bekommen, möglichst einem Sitz oben in der vorderen Reihe zu reservieren und so kommt Martin in den Genuss des Panoramablicks.

    Auf 3000 m müssen dann die Grenzformalitäten erledigt werden. D.h. 1. aus Argentinien ausreisen, 2. nach Chile einreisen, 3. Spalier stehen und warten bis das Gepäck durchleuchtet wird, 4. Handgepäck durchleuchten lassen. Warum das Ganze? Die Chilenen haben panische Angst vor eingeschleppten Krankheiten und deshalb sind alle frischen Produkte (Obst, Gemüse...), Kunsthandwerk, tierische Erzeugnisse und vieles mehr strengstens untersagt! Wir kennen das ganze Prozedere mittlerweile und nach 2 Stunden sind alle Schritte erledigt und wir können die Fahrt fortsetzen.

    Valparaiso begrüßt und mit seinen vielen bunten Häusern und wir nehmen an einer Stadtführung teil um die vielen Gassen und Gemälde der Künstlerstadt näher zu erkunden. Bis zur Eröffnung des Panamakanals war Valparaiso der wichtigste Hafen Südamerikas und so wurden die Häuser früher mit übriggebliebener Schiffsfarbe angestrichen. Heute sind viele Gebäude mit wunderschönen Graffitis verziert. Es gibt große Probleme mit Schmierereien und der Ehrenkodex besagt das auf einer besprühten Fassade nichts drübergeschmiert werden darf. Die Stadt erstreckt sich über eine Vielzahl von Hügeln. Um uns die vielen Treppen zu ersparen nutzen wir die alten, teilweise schon 1902 erbauten Aufzüge.

    Um unseren kulinarischen Horizont zu erweitern melden wir uns für einen chilenischen Kochkurs an. Nachdem wir alle Produkte frisch auf dem Markt erstanden haben zaubern wir Pebre (Tomatensalsa für Brot oder zum würzen von Gerichten) Empanada (gefüllte Teigtaschen), Ceviche (roher Fisch mit Zitronensaft​ und Gewürzen), Charquican (Eintopf mit Kartoffeln, Kürbis und allerlei Gemüse) und Leche Asada (ähnlich Creme Brulee). Dazu gibt es chilenischen Wein und Pisco Sour (Pisco (ähnlich Grappa), Zitronensaft, Zuckersirup, Eiklar). Alles sehr sehr lecker und den chilenischen Abenden steht nichts mehr im Wege! Die chilenischen Kneipen servieren neben Pisco Sour auch noch einen weiteren Cocktail, den Terrormoto (Erdbeben), welcher im geschmeidigen 1 l Krug daher kommt und den man besser teilt. 😀

    Noch pappsatt vom Vortag machen wir uns auf den Weg nach Santiago de Chile, der Hauptstadt. Leider haben wir nur einen Tag Zeit, sodass wir drei uns direkt einer Tour anschließen um die Highlights Santiagos zu erkunden. Auf halber Strecke entdecken wir ein riesiges Foodfestival in einem Park und entschließen uns kurzerhand die Tour zu verlassen, über das Festival zu schlendern und chilenische Köstlichkeiten zu probieren.
    Eigentlich haben wir drei Betten in einem Schlafsaal reserviert. Das Hostel war aber überbucht und so haben wir ein ganzes Appartement mit riesiger eigener Dachterasse mit Blick über ganz Santiago. Was ein Upgrade! Hier trinken wir natürlich noch ein, zwei Bier bevor wir zu unserem letzten gemeinsamen Abend in das Ausgehviertel Bellavista aufbrechen.

    Tschüss Martin und Vielen Dank für deinen Besuch und die tollen Tage!!! Wir vermissen dich!!!
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  • Day46

    Osterinseln - Moai Statuen

    February 20, 2017 in Chile

    Wir sind im Paradies angekommen. 😍

    Knapp 30 Grad, strahlender Sonnenschein und wunderschön blaues Meer 😄

    Wir haben die Osterinseln heute gegen 8 Uhr morgens erreicht. Anlegen können wir natürlich nicht, der Hafen ist sehr sehr klein. Es gibt viele behördliche Regelungen. Die Tenderboote die uns an Land bringen dürfen nur Tagsüber fahren (bis 20 Uhr) und wenn der Wellengang zu stark wird dürfen sie auch nicht fahren. Ach ja, und es dürfen immer nur 2 Tenderboote gleichzeitig im Hafen sein, was natürlich die Transportzeit in die Länge zieht 😪

    Nichtsdestotrotz haben wir um 13 Uhr unseren Ausflug gestartet. Nachdem wir an Land gekommen sind haben wir uns in unseren kleinen Bus gesetzt (ca. 20 Personen) und sind zu den ersten Maoi Statuen gefahren. 😁

    Wir kannten sie ja schon aus dem Fernsehen, Internet usw. Aber sie in der Realität zu sehen ist noch einmal etwas anderes. 😄
    Es gibt so viele verschiedene Arten, mit Hut und ohne, mit Augen und ohne, große und kleine, mit langen und mit kurzen Ohren usw usw. ☺

    Das "Highlight" unserer Tour waren die 7 aneinander gereihten Figuren die aufs Meer hinaus schauen. Sie sind die einzigen Figuren die das tun, alle anderen Figuren schauen ins Inselinnere. Man vermutet dass diese 7 Figuren für die 7 Menschen stehen, die damals übers Meer kamen und die Insel entdeckt haben 😁

    Übrigens:
    Der Legende nach bewegen sich die Statuen nachts. Demnach haben sie den Weg von dem Ort ihrer Entstehung, bis zum Podest am dem sie heute stehen selbst zurück gelegt. ☺
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Región de Valparaíso, Region de Valparaiso, Valparaíso

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