Chile
Región de Valparaíso

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  • Day117

    Chili - Rapa Nui (Ile de Paques)

    January 1 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    En cette nouvelle Année (bonne année a tous 🥳), nous terminons notre tournée Polynesienne avec l'ile de Paques (Rapa Nui dans le texte).
    L une des iles les plus isolées du monde (il n'y a pas d'archipel), c'est un etrange mélange. Le centre fait clairement penser a l'Irlande avec son herbe grasse, ses barrieres de pierre noire et son betail, mais les cotes sont plantées de bananiers, avocatiers, cocotiers et ananas. De petits crateres (c'est une ile volcanique) apparaissent ça et là. Le tout est bordé d'une mer de corail turquoise et l'on y parle polynesien et espagnol ! En ajoutant le decalage horaire il y a de quoi etre perdu !
    Et il y a ces statuts mythiques, les Moais. Ils ont été construits par les polynésiens venus de Nouvelle Zelande et de Tahiti entre le 12e et le 15e siecle avant l'arrivée des Chiliens. On sait comment ils ont ete taillés mais leur assemblage et la mise en place reste un mystere.
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  • Day114

    ¡Bienvenido! Esto es Valparaiso

    April 21, 2019 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Es wird mal wieder Zeit für ein Footprint! Allerdings möchte ich eher die Bilder und die Musik sprechen lassen, als das ich hier jetzt einen Roman schreibe!
    Wir sind inzwischen in Vina Del Mar, eine Stadt, die an einer Bucht des Pazifiks liegt. Ich wollte unbedingt dahin um mir noch ein paar Sonnenstrahlen ein zu fangen und Jens hat sich entschieden seinen Sprachkurs hier in Vina Del Mar fort zu führen. Leider spielt das Wetter nicht so mit wie erwartet , seit gestern bewölkt und regen. Noch ein Grund mehr um sich um einen neuen Text, Video, Klavierstück zu kümmern...
    Direkt neben Vina Del Mar liegt die Hafenstadt Valparaiso, die eigentlich auch unser Favorit für diese Woche war, dennoch hatten wir von vielen Seiten gehört das die Stadt recht unsicher sein soll und somit waren wir zu ängstlich uns darauf einzulassen eine Woche dort zu verbringen. Attraktiv soll sie dennoch sein und somit machen wir eine tour for tips mit. Eine tolle Sache, denn nach der Tour kann man einfach so viel Geld geben wie man möchte.
    Und wir hatten uns nicht zu viel versprochen. Valparaiso ist bunt, hat kleine Gassen, einen tollen Hafen und auch das Wetter ist an diesem Tag phänomenal.
    Der Guide führt uns durch sämtliche Straßen, zeigt uns die Street Art Kultur, die sich über die ganze Stadt verteilt, ziehen an Straßenmusik vorbei, essen Alfajores ( Zwei Kekse überzogen mit Vollmilchschokolade und dazwischen ist eine Art Karamellmasse, superlecker!) und nehmen den Flair dieser Stadt auf.
    Hier ein Video , mit ein paar Eindrücken! :-)
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  • Day211

    Paso Cristo Redentor

    December 23, 2019 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Von Santiago fahre ich weiter wieder nach Argentinien. Der Weg führt über die Anden. Zwar gibt es an dieser Strecke auf 3100m einen Tunnel, aber der blaue Himmel hat mich auf die alte Passstrasse gelockt. 17 Km Piste auf den Paso Cristo Redentor auf 3854m. Dort oben haben mich dann zwei Kondor mit Jungen "begrüsst"Read more

  • Day66

    Valparaiso und Viña del Mar

    January 10 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Ein Tagesausflug zu den zwei bekanntesten Küstenstädten nahe Santiago - das war das Ziel des heutigen Tages. Und das nicht mit einer geführten Tour, sondern für das volle Einheimischen-Gefühlspaket auf eigene Faust.😎
    Das klappte auch wunderbar, bis wir nach einer kurzen Metro-Fahrt und knappen zwei Stunden im klimatisierten Doppelstöckerbus in Valparaiso ankamen - respektive an dessen Busterminal etwas ausserhalb der Stadt. Anstatt gemütlich das Taxi ins Zentrum zu nehmen entschieden wir uns für den Fussmarsch. Sagen wir mal so - viele Touristen sind wahrscheinlich noch nicht durch diese armen, vollen, lauten und stinkenden Viertel gelaufen. Aber wir kamen an und uns erwartete voller Vorfreude das Stadtzentrum - das sich auf den ersten Blick aber leider nicht wirklich vom vorhergehenden Stadtteil abhob. Als wir uns dann aber in die steilen Hügel vorwagten entdeckten wir doch spannende enge und vor allem farbige Gassen, steile Funiculars und (im engsten Wortsinn) malerische Häuser, sodass wir wie alle Touristen auch noch zu unseren Streetart-Graffiti-Hipster-Instagram-Schnappschüssen kamen.
    Nun stand der Transfer ins zweite Städtchen an. Taxis liessen wir wieder links liegen - die Strassenbahn war das Ziel. Sehr spontan entschieden wir uns aber um und bestiegen mutig einen alten, lokalen, uns anhupenden Mini-Trolleybus. Äusserst rasant diese Fahrt, grösstenteils mit offenen Türen und bei rollendem Bus ein- und aussteigenden Passagieren und Händlern, sowie keinem erkennbaren Haltestellen-Konzept - ein wahres Erlebnis, aber wir kamen (ungefähr) am Ziel an. Allerdings hatten wir beim Vorbeifahren unsere geplanten Sehenswürdigkeiten bereits (kurz) bestaunt, sodass wir nach einem Besuch der Strandpromenade den Rückweg etwas früher antraten und für das Nachtessen nach Santiago in das gewohnte Umfeld zurückkehrten.
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  • Day54

    Murals (Wandgemälde)

    December 24, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Ein kleines „Weihnachtsspecial“: Valparaiso ist berühmt für seine Straßenkunst. Sprayer kommen teilweise aus Europa, weil sie hier den „Freiraum“ finden ihre Kunst umzusetzen....anbei meine 6 „Best of...“

  • Day10

    Day 7 - Down to Sea Level

    January 5, 2019 in Chile ⋅ 🌫 13 °C

    A travel day as we left the Atacama for ValparIso. Another way-before-dawn morning saw us on the road from San Pedro to Calama as the sun rose behind the Andes. An uneventful flight landed us in a crowded Santiago airport. We learned later there had been a power outage at the airport yesterday that caused delays and cancellations and the residue of that was still making for long lines. Got our car and headed west towards the Pacific.

    Coming out of the second tunnel on the freeway to Valparaiso, presented us with the lush, well developed Casablanca valley. This is a recently-developed (only 30 years ago) wine producing region. The land in the valley and up some of the hills is covered in vineyards. We choose one, VinaMar, to visit. The winery has a palatial mansion in the center of many acres of its vineyards and we went in to see about lunch. In the elegant second story dining room overlooking the vines and the valley, we had a leisurely, delicious four-course meal. VinaMar specializes in sparkling wines. Each course of our meal was accompanied by one of their wines. We'd learned that portions are big so we ordered one lunch and shared it. The appetizer was served on a oak stave from a wine barrel with a dry, light sparkling rose made from pinot noir grapes. Our waiter explained each course and the wines he served. With the starter, he served a brut sparkling wine made from chardonnay grapes. The main course was scrumptious beef and local vegetables with a weak red cabarnet from one of their sister vineyards and desert was served with another sparkling white. In spite of sharing the lunch and wines, we were both a little tipsy by the end of the meal. We walked around the grounds a bit to work off some of the wine since the guidebook warned us of Chile's zero-tolerance policy on drunk driving. Off after two hours of lunch to Valpariso.

    Valparaiso is a port city sprawling over 45 steep hills surrounding the harbor. The commercial and port areas are on the narrow flat around the harbor but the residential areas climb the steep hills. The hills are so significant that there are 14 funiculars to help you get up them. My GPS took us to the hotel through a winding route along narrow streets up and down several hills. We checked into the Thomas Somerscales Boutique Hotel high above the harbor. The hotel is the converted former home of English painter Thomas Somerscales who was active in the late 19th to early 20th century and lived in Valparaiso for 20 years. The small hotel has only 12 rooms but is elegant and comfortable.

    After checking in and setting up our room, we walked the residential area around the hotel. Valparaiso is noted for its street art covering the houses and walls and we saw examples everywhere. We had a hot chocolate at a small bistro that, we'd been told, has live music. As we drank our chocolate, two guys came in and started playing. I recognized some of the songs and talked with them. When they learned I played harmonica, they invited me to play a blues with them. We strolled back to the hotel in the dusk (now about 9:30) to finish the day looking over the lights of the city.
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  • Day11

    Day 8 - Coast and Inland

    January 6, 2019 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The day dawned overcast but our host said it would clear up after noon. A continental breakfast and directions saw us on the way to find a camera. We dropped Gail's camera flying up to the Atacama and she found a Canon dealer in the sister city of Vina del Mar on the other side of the harbor. This turned out to be closed on Saturday but asking got me directions to a large mall. The mall was several floors of gleaming, modern shops and we found a slightly newer model of the same camera and bought it (at a slightly cheaper price than what we'd paid for the old one).

    We drove up the coast to see the beaches. Getting out of Vina del Mar involved lots of turns to get past the rivers that flow into the harbor and the road was busy with locals heading the same way. We were disappointed as we discovered the road stayed somewhat inland behind huge dunes (70 to 100 feet high) by the shore. The two-lane road lead through highly industrialized suburbs with oil refineries, metal fabrication factories and processing plants. Traffic moved well after a delay for some construction but it was a good hour before we left the industrial area and neared the coast. Like the weather, the road reminded us of coastal northern California as it wound up and down curving roads following the stream valleys in and out. There are several large beach communities and many Chileans have or rent summer cottages along here, including some exclusive gated developments. We parked at the square of the northernmost town, Papudo, and strolled around the square and down to the beach. The strand was crowded with weekend visitors camped on the beach under umbrellas and walking the cement boardwalks. Along the boardwalks small shops sold beachwear and toys while pushcart vendors sold peanuts, candy and more toys. In one place, a group of Caribbeans (?) played music and danced with enthusiasm to celebrate the weekend. We stopped at a beachside restaurant to share a delicious ceviche as we people watched.

    Rather than return the same way, we drove inland and took a freeway south. The weather had cleared up and a hazy sun accompanied us back. The freeway passed through mildly farmed valleys until we turned back to the coast at La Calera. The broad valley between there and the coast was heavily farmed with fields of vegetables and fruit trees spread across the valley and climbed the hillsides. We made our way through the maze of Valparaiso cobblestone streets back to our hotel.

    In the early evening (around 8:00, early for the locals), we strolled around the blocks near the hotel looking at the street art and small shops. In the area are numerous small hotels and hostels and foreign and Chilean tourists were doing the strolling. We liked the bistro from last night (Vinilo) so much that we went back again. Over an hour and a half we sipped a huge beer and shared some dishes from the menu while a lone guitarist play a couple acoustic numbers and then the night's main band set up. The wait staff remembered us from last night and chatted with us as they served others. We asked for recommendations on Chilean dishes to sample. We had a Pauela de Choclo that we'd seen last night. This is a baked casserole served bubbling hot from the oven consisting of the large-kernnel, white corn (choclo) with olives, onions, green peppers, egg and cheese - great! Then a Churasca, which turned out to be a thin crust pizza but with local cheese and meat. We topped it off with a brownie with ice cream as the jazz trio began to play. Back at the hotel, we let the meal settle and bedded.

    Tomorrow to the cruise ship.
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  • Day12

    Day 9 - On Board

    January 7, 2019 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    The day dawned brightly for leaving Valparaiso. We had breakfast and left the hotel. A wrong turn led us up into the hills trying to find the road to Santiago but cranking up the GPS got us on track. We drove up through the Casablanca valley and into Santiago to drop off the rental car and meet our driver for the hour an a half trip to San Antonio. That drive took us through a very productive region with vegetable and fruit farms interspersed with cattle ranches. The port of San Antonio is relatively small but busy and crowded. Checkin for the cruise is much like checking in to a flight - just a lot more people (think checking in 3,000 passengers). Still, we completed the process in little over an hour and we in our stateroom by about 3:30. We unpacked then attended the mandatory evacuation drill.

    The Celebrity Eclipse is a huge boat. At almost 1,100 feet, it's three football fields (including end zones) long and 120 feet wide. It has 15 decks and holds 2,850 passengers. Walking around you can hear many languages but most programs and announcements are in English. Some announcements are also in Spanish, French, and Portuguese.

    The ship sailed at 6:00 and we watched from our stateroom veranda. The San Antonio port is narrow and the ship had a pilot boat and a tugboat to help it clear the quays. As we pulled our, several small tourist boats filled with people came our to watch.

    Once underway, we attended a comedy show by an American, black comic, Daran Howard. He was ok but some of the references to black culture went over the heads of the international audience. We cruised south staying about a mile off the coast. We had a late (8:30) seating for dinner and waited to be seated with 1,000 other people. Our table mates (for the entire trip) were a couple from Germany and a couple from Lodi, CA. Hans, the German man, had been in the merchant marine and remarked on how skillfully the captain had handled the exit from the narrow harbor. Fred, the California man, turned out to be a civil engineer, like me, and Hans was a mechanical engineer. Fred's wife, Silvia, was originally from Peru but had been a teacher in the states, as had been Gail. Didn't learn what Hotie, Hans' wife, did.

    Dinner and our conversations lasted until 10:30 so we so called it a day.
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  • Day53

    Valpariso

    December 23, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Ist eine chaotische Stadt auf 42 Hügeln. Bunt, morbide und liebenswert....

  • Day51

    Über die Anden...

    December 21, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    ...geht es ein letztes Mal mit dem Bus von Mendoza nach Santiago de Chile. Hier sind die Berge viel schroffer als im Norden und Lifte deuten darauf hin, das man hier im Winter (August) Skifahren kann.

You might also know this place by the following names:

Región de Valparaíso, Region de Valparaiso, Valparaíso

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