Ecuador
Provincia de Imbabura

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    • Day 89

      Ceci est un exercice ! [Tom]

      June 11, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Ce matin c'est jour de marché dans Otavalo. Je sors dans la rue est là c'est le souk. La route est remplie de stand qui vendent tout et n'importe quoi. Le marché qui occupe seulement la place principale la semaine occupe touuuuut le centre ville le samedi. Ça vend du poncho, des bijoux, des habits, des chaussures. C'est riche en couleur. On se perd vite et je me retrouve à déambuler entre cuir, laine et argent.

      Mais pas de temps à perdre à 10h je file à la lagune Cuicocha avec Apolline, Iona et Pierre Louis, un nouvau compagnon, il voyage depuis 2 ans et demi car apparemment son tour du monde a été freiné par une pandémie mondiale.

      Pas de chance le temps est couvert. On marche littéralement dans les nuages et on ne peut pas apprécier le cratère rempli d'eau. Je suspecte l'écossaise d'avoir ramener le fameux brouillard du Loch. Ce sera pour une prochaine fois.

      Pour se réconforter on profite d'un repas face à la lagune qui s'est découverte. Sur le retour on passe par Cotocachi la ville du cuir où l'on est invité à une dégustation de chocolat, la chance et je me fais même payer une bière par un papa équatorien.

      De retour à Otavalo direction le marché culinaire où une dizaine de famille possède chacune leur stand et dont les plats font fureur dans toute la ville, ça force le respect. On sent le savoir faire, la maîtrise et le poulet grillé. Sans hésitation on fonce vers le stand avec la plus grande queue.

      Ce soir est un grand soir, ceci est un exercice ! Ce sont les répétitions de Inty Raimy la fête du Soleil. Je vous rassure c'est juste une excuse pour faire la fête avant la fête. On rencontre sur le chemin deux jeunes Suisses.

      Comment ça fonctionne ? Un violoniste un flûtiste et un guitariste se mettent à jouer de la musique. Les gens s'attroupent autour et ceux mettent à marcher autour d'eux en faisant des tout petits pas et changent parfois de sens. Le cercle devient de plus en plus grand. Des dizaines de cercle se forment sur la place de taille différente selon la popularité des musiques jouées. C'est assez drôle car par moment les gens court pour changer de cercle.

      La danse a pour but d'enfoncer le mal dans le sol en le piétinant. C'est très festif, et comme d'habitude les locaux sont très amusés qu'on soit là. Fin des festivités... euh de l'entraînement pardon, je file direction mon lit.

      Tom
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    • Day 90

      Avis de tempête [Tom]

      June 12, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Ce matin je retourne me balader dans le marché d'Otavalo. Les locaux essayent de me vendre tout et n'importe quoi si bien qu'ils négocient eux même les prix alors que je ne demande rien. Ils cassent parfois les prix par deux pensant que je suis très dur en affaires.

      Une grève nationale est annoncée dans le pays lundi. En cause la hausse des prix dans le pays fait raler les indigènes, ils veulent bloquer le pays. Ce n'est pas une blague les indigenes ne sont pas contents.

      J'hésite entre prolonger mon séjour à Otavalo, où je risque de rester bloquer, ou bien rentrer à Quito aujourd'hui. La plupart des locaux semblent très préoccupés et me préviennent que pour quito c'est avant ce soir ou peut être jamais.

      Ni une ni deux je saute dans un des derniers bus qui part pour la capitale. J'arrive en fin d'après midi à Quito la ville de tous les dangers.

      Tom
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    • Otovalo

      August 10, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

      We are now in Otovalo, named for the indigenous tribe that specializes in handicrafts. We took a short stroll, visited the famous market to get a preview (we will shop there tomorrow), and had a great dinner. Cannot believe it is our last day tomorrow.Read more

    • Breakfast at Central Market

      August 11, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

      Locals go to Central market for breakfast and lunch. You can have everything from chicken soup to smoothies to empanadas or buy fruit, beef, chickens…

      The stray dogs know this is a good place to come and they are very well behaved. They sit at your feet and wait for you to finish and then they are happy to clean up anything that remains.Read more

    • Plazas los Ponchos

      August 11, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      We are in one of the biggest indigenous markets today and the products are stunning. Prices are incredibly low and my students are having a difficult time making choices. The people are also lovely and you can take pictures with them and they will show you how to wear their clothing, etc.Read more

    • Day 22

      Otavalo

      September 27, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Otavalo is a really cool, small city in the Ecuadorian Andes. It's 2 hours north of Quito by bus, known for its market, which they say is the largest South America. It's full of colourful fabrics, blankets, sweaters, shirts, indigenous dress, jewelry, traditional musical instruments, art, and fruit, bread, typical food and so much more.

      We had a pig roast for lunch with white corn, fried mashed potato balls they call tortillas, and salad for dirt cheap and did manage to find some cool hippie pants for a decent price.

      We hiked to the Peguche waterfall, did the circuit of the Laguna de Cuicocha, so named for the central islands resemblance to a guinea pig. (Cuicocha is the Quechua word for guinea pig.)

      We also hiked to what we thought was going to be a thousand year old, huge tree, and we were... surprised, let's say when we got to the top of that dusty, steep hill.

      It's a really cool town with its own vibe nestled in a valley between massive volcanos, a welcome change from the bustling cities.

      On our last night we went for dinner at local pub. We tried to find a traditional dish something like the pig roast we had had, but found nothing so we chose this place instead. It was DELICIOUS. We had cocktails, craft beer, and 2 huge plates. A churrasco, which is a piece of grilled beef with egg, rice, fries, and salad, and a parillada, a selection of grilled meats, south American style, with the same sides and delicious dipping sauces. Wonderful way to end our stay.

      Quito next!
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    • Day 232

      Ecuador Otavalo

      October 22, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Tschüss schönes Kolumbien. 👋🇨🇴
      Die zwei Monate mit dir waren fantastisch. Deine Einwohner waren sehr freundlich, dein Essen lecker (wenn auch sehr frittiert), die Preise unschlagbar und entführt wurden wir auch nicht. 😉 Du wirst uns in toller Erinnerung bleiben. ❤️

      Wir fuhren mit einem Sammeltaxi zu der Grenze und stürmten gleich in ein Gebäude rein, streckten dem Grenzbeamten unsere Pässe entgegen und warteten auf den Stempel. 🛂 „Ihr braucht zuerst einen Ausreisestempel aus Kolumbien“. ☝️
      Aha. Der Fahrer fuhr uns also direkt über den Fluss nach Ecuador, hoppla.🙈
      So liefen wir also noch hin und her, kamen dann doch noch zu unseren zwei Stempeln und tauschen unsere kolumbianischen Pesos gegen US-Dollar. 💵
      Die Flaggen von Kolumbien und Ecuador sehen übrigens fast gleich aus. 🇪🇨🇨🇴

      Unser erstes Ziel in Ecuador war Otavalo. Die Stadt mit 50‘000 Einwohnern liegt auf 2‘532 m. ü. M. und überraschte uns durch seine hohe Anzahl an indigenen Einwohnern.
      Wir hatten ein schönes Hotelzimmer mit ganzen fünf Betten. 😂🛏️🛏️🛏️🛏️🛏️
      Wir liefen zum Peguche Wasserfall, welcher den Namen Wasserfall wirklich verdient hat, was in Südamerika nicht immer der Fall ist. 😉
      Wir dehnten den Ausflug zu einer kleinen Wanderung aus, in der Hoffnung am See einen Ausblick auf einen Vulkan zu erhaschen, doch der versteckte sich leider in den Wolken. ☁️

      Am zweiten Tag wanderten wir um die Cuicocha-Lagune, zu deutsch Meerschweinchenlagune. Meerschweinchen haben wir bisher leider nur geröstet an einem Spiess gesehen und auch unterwegs keine entdeckt. 🤷‍♀️🤷‍♂️
      Die 12.5 km lange Wanderung führte hoch und runter um die schöne Lagune herum. Die Wanderung war ein wenig anstrengend, aber die Luft ist auf 3‘250 m ü. M. auch ziemlich dünn.
      Die Aussicht auf die spiegelglatte Lagune war jedoch fantastisch und die Anstrengung wert. 🥰
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    • Day 76

      Hacienda San Isidro de Itaqui and Cotaca

      November 2, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      Another long weekend and another adventure! This time, we headed north of Quito to check out another hacienda and more sites in the Andes. As usual, our travels included some minor inconveniences—this time the issues involved plumbing problems at the hacienda where we were staying. More on that later.

      Our first day, we hung out at the hacienda and had a lovely tour of the grounds by the adorable 83-year-old owner. He was incredibly enthusiastic and welcoming. Talia did a good job translating for us since he spoke no English and our Spanish remains no bueno. He treated us as if we were the first visitors in ages (again, more on that later). We tasted fruits from his many trees, toured the gardens, met the baby cows and had a lovely morning. In the afternoon, we took a long horseback ride through the huge property (Kyla, who was a bit wary of horses came too!). Talia and Kyla shared a horse because, when we met our guide he said, “tenemos tres caballos. Dos están tranquilos y uno está loco. ¿Quién está bien con el loco?” I now know enough Spanish to stop Talia from volunteering for the loco horse.

      Ok, remember the plumbing problem I mentioned? Well, when Kyla took her usual 3-minute shower post horseback riding, she noticed that there was a bit of water on the floor. No big deal. Then I took my usual-length shower and caused a biblical flood in the bathroom—water gushed from a drain in the floor. We told the lovely hosts and they did their best to fix the problem…but when Talia showered a few hours later, the problem occurred again and this time black water streamed from the drain. Oy.

      The next morning, we attempted to check out, but our hosts were very persuasive and convinced us to stay in a part of the property that was connected to a different plumbing system. They assured us that the room was great, even though it seemed as if no guests had been there for 200 years (and, in fact, as noted above, it seemed that we were the first guests in quite a while and we the only guests during our stay). Our tour guide for the day, Andres, offered to call a new plumber for the hacienda owner, and we took off for a day of exploring with hopes of normal showers when we returned. See the next post for the rest of day 2 of this trip.
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    • Day 77

      Laguna Cuicocha, Cascada Peguche

      November 3, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

      We spent our second day of this trip with our guide, Andres, and saw a gorgeous lake in a volcanic crater, Languna Cuicocha, which included a quick boat ride around the lake. Then we headed to the cute town of Cotacachi for lunch, followed by a trip to the Peguche waterfall, which was pretty but very crowded. After a quick dinner back in Cotacachi, we caught a taxi back to our hacienda. The road was so rocky(and we had so much to eat at dinner) that we had to get out for a bit so that the taxi could make it up the steep hill without us weighing him down.

      We were looking forward to a good night of sleep in our new room. Unfortunately, our new room was right next to where the owners tied up their dogs at night and the dogs barked non-stop all night. Oh, and not shockingly, in the morning, our shower didn’t work. Despite how lovely everyone at the hacienda was, we decided to check out that day.
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    • Day 79

      San Antonio de Ibarra, Ibarra, Otavalo

      November 5, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

      We had a warm goodbye with our hacienda friends and took off for another day with our guide, Andres. We headed to San Antonio de Ibarra, a sweet little town that specializes in woodworking with a particular type of wood that is native to the area. We happened upon dancers in the main square doing the Ecuadorian equivalent of the hora. Then we headed to Andres’ grandparents’ hometown of Ibarra, where we hit his favorite ice cream shop. Somehow Talia convinced him to order us all lemon popsicles followed by huge cups of ice cream. So that was lunch!

      From Ibarra, we headed to Otavalo, the home of the area’s largest indigenous market. Talia picked out a few gifts for friends and we did a horrible job of bargaining. After the market, we stopped by an indigenous cemetery to see the flowers left during Day of the Dead remembrances (and in anticipation of this, we watched Disney’s Coco last week).

      Finally, we headed to a hotel that Kyla found online when we checked out of the hacienda-of-no-plumbing. The new hotel was AMAZING: gorgeous views of volcanos and a beautiful (and functional!) bathroom. We had less than 24 hours at the new hotel, but we crammed in some archery and another beautiful horseback ride. We are now back in Olon until we fly back to the US for Thanksgiving at the end of November.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Provincia de Imbabura

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