Family from Devon, United Kingdom. Sold everything we own. Quit our jobs to explore more of the World with our young family (E, 5 & A, 2 years old). Aus working visa application in. Meanwhile travel to Latin America, southern Africa & Australia. Read more United Kingdom
  • Day 55–62

    Horse-riding, coconuts & Hermosa

    February 22 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Elana and Helen enjoyed an early morning horse ride through the pristine jungle and along the beaches whilst we were there. It’s been a while since Elana has been on a horse (and even longer for Helen) and they thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Being early in the morning there weren’t many people about either making it a tranquil and special experience.

    One afternoon whilst we were chilling out at our local beach spot some labourers from a local building site turned up and were hanging about (we assumed on their lunch break). One of them then decided to scale a quite tall palm tree and began throwing some lovely ripe coconuts down, of which they gave us several and taught Mark how to de-husk them on the rocks! The coconut water was lovely (as was the flesh) and just what was needed in the middle of a hot day on the beach – we can see why they were keen to harvest some! Mark also made a delicious coconut curry out of one of them one evening. During operation coconut drop a snake fell out of the tree, quickly slithering away to the sea!

    Bertie rose particularly early one morning (as he often does) so Mark took him for a sunrise walk down to the beach, we had the beach and best rockpool to ourselves (it was 5:30am) – it would have been rude not to have taken advantage of the first dip of the day! We enjoyed the tranquillity of the beach whilst the sun rose behind the jungle.

    On one of our final days we headed to a beach called Hermosa, about 10km from Malpais, which is great for surfing. Hermosa has a vast expanse of sand so it is easy to get away from any crowds. The beach has little natural shade so over time people have made shelters out of branches and palm fronds, we managed to find one vacant, Mark fixed it up a little and it gave us a great spot in which to enjoy the beach. We all enjoyed jumping about in the surf and Mark and Elana spent most of their time body surfing the waves in the warm pacific ocean. Bertie’s confidence in the water has grown so much in the past 2 months, he thinks nothing of running into the surf and getting washed about now – not bad for a 2 year old!

    We would loved to have spent a bit more time in Malpais, we met a family from Ireland who spend a month there each year (they run a restaurant that they close down for a month each January), we can see why as it’s such a chilled out place. However it was time to move on and continue our adventure. Our final journey in Costa Rica saw us driving back to San Jose taking a shorter route via a ferry that crosses the Gulf of Nicoya. As always the roads to the ferry were varied and the ferry itself looked like it had seen better days, we’re sure it was safe through! We were ushered into the bowels of the boat which they tightly packed with cars leaving no room to get in or out of the cars. We managed to escape before they filled the next row, getting back in was interesting, Mark had to climb in through the back door and climb through to the front (other people had to wait until some of the vehicles had moved out of the way)!

    Costa Rica was really charming, the landscapes were so varied, the flora and fauna fascinating and the people friendly – definitely a place we would return to in the future if the world wasn’t so vast – we’ll see!
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  • Day 55–62

    Mal Pais, Nicoya Peninsula

    February 22 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    The weather in Monterverde was cooler and wetter than we have become accustomed to, so it was time to move to the coast and have some beach time and warm weather. We headed to Malpais near Santa Teresa on the Nicoya Peninsula on the Pacific Coast for a week. Our accommodation was an amazing duplex house in beautiful jungle surroundings (plenty of monkeys!) which had its own self-catering facilities, a shared pool and a short walk/drive to the beach. It was bliss after several months of moving around to have some time in one place. The beaches were stunning and unspoilt, lined with palm trees and natural vegetation. The sunsets were outstanding and we enjoyed having picnic dinner on the beach as the ‘sun went down’ (Bertie’s new phrase!). Santa Teresa is the main hub, no more than a small village really but with all the essentials you need from restaurants, bars and supermarkets to clothes shops and surf stores. It gets pretty dusty as the main road is just a dirt track, you can often see the locals hosing the street down to keep the dust manageable. It has a really chilled, relaxed, hippie vibe to it, a nice place to spend a week.

    Our nearest beach was really sheltered at low-tide and had natural rock pools that you could float about in. It was really safe for the children and we enjoyed lounging on the beach knowing they were in their element and content. Elana, being the adventurer she is, was desperate to give surfing a go having got a taste for it in Croyde, North Devon, last summer. She spent many an afternoon (when the tide was right) surfing the small waves that came in on the beach – she’s looking forward to honing her skills in Australia!
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  • Day 54

    Children’s Eternal Rainforest night walk

    February 21 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We also did a night-walk on the Pacific side in the Children’s Eternal Rainforest reserve, as mentioned this was significantly drier with completely different vegetation. The fauna didn’t let us down with many unusual birds roosting amongst the trees for the night, many tarantulas waiting for a victim to pass, frogs which were roughly the size of a thumbnail (fully grown) and fireflies that provided endless entertainment for the children! Unfortunately no big cat sightings, with puma and jaguar frequenting the forest.Read more

  • Day 54

    Ziplining at Tree Topia

    February 21 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    On the outskirts of Monteverde there is an activities centre that has a hanging bridge walk similar to what we have previously done and also offers zip-lining through the forest canopy, which Elana was really keen to do. We had an enjoyable walk through the forest and were lucky enough to spot a ‘jaguarundi’, no we hadn’t heard of it either! They’re a little bigger than a domestic cat and actually look weasel like, we only had a fleeting glance as it ran across the path in front of us but it was a great spot! After the walk Helen and Bert headed off to take a cable car ride and Mark and Elana to the zip-lining. It wasn’t just one zip line, it was seven ranging from 100m to 750m in length, in the canopy of the cloud forest reaching speeds of up to 40mph! The weather was pretty lousy on the day we went and the views weren’t the best, on a good day (which is rare in the cloud forest) you can see surrounding volcanoes and the pacific coast. Still not knowing what was ahead of you as you zipped through the forest increased the fun! We weren’t sure how Elana would cope with it or whether she’s bottle it, it’s probably the most adventurous thing she’s done so far, but she enjoyed every moment. She was beaming from ear to ear and at the end asked if she could do it all again! Mark admitted that there was one particular zip line that caused him to think twice, the access platform was elevated, small and had little in the way of safety guarding. But if a 5 year old can do it he had to get on with it! At the end we had to abseil off the final platform, about 60m. Elana went first amongst a group of adults, without hesitation she stepped off the platform and was away! A great day enjoyed by all!Read more

  • Day 53

    Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve

    February 20 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Monteverde is around 1440m above sea level and straddles the continental divide with the Caribbean to the east and Pacific to the west. It’s possible to see how the vegetation changes when looking on each side of the divide, the Caribbean is wet and humid whilst the Pacific is drier and windier. This leads to more lush and taller vegetation on the Caribbean side. We certainly noticed the difference when going out on nature walks, on the Caribbean side there was a lot of moss and parasitic growth on the trees with denser vegetation, whilst on the pacific side the forest was less dense.

    Whilst in Monterverde we headed out on a daytime guided walk (on the Caribbean side) in a local private nature reserve. We saw a typical selection of monkeys and birds, in particular we were really lucky to see a Quetzal which is the national bird of Guatemala. Whilst they thrive in these forests they’re difficult to spot so we count ourselves lucky. After this encounter we also saw some wild boar, tarantula and stick insects (which were the highlight for the children)! The walk was very atmospheric due to the nature of the forest with moss, parasitic plants (including strangler figs taking hold of trees) and the density of the jungle. We did get fairly damp on the walk, the nature of the cloud forest is that there is a very heavy mist that hangs about and works its way through your clothes, the warm temperatures make this bearable though!
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  • Day 52–55

    Santa Elena (nr Monteverde Cloud Forest)

    February 19 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Time to move on and into the cloud forest. Our drive took us around Lake Arenal a windy and beautifully scenic route. On the way we tested the off-road capabilities of our SUV (which Mark thoroughly enjoyed) stopping off for lunch at a scenic spot on the banks of the Lake. There were a fair few kitesurfers gathered and were making the most of the wind which had picked up a fair bit. Whilst the distance wasn’t considerable (around 120km), the roads began to deteriorate as we got closer to Monteverde slowing progress. We weren’t in a rush and it enabled us to enjoy the scenery!

    Our next hotel was located slightly out of town nestled within the cloud forest, our lodge had a perfect perch for the children to look out of the window and observe the wildlife coming and going in the forest. The hotel was surrounded by a variety of animals, including monkeys, a variety of birds and lots of Coatimundis (a new one on us), but the children enjoyed watching them scavenge and climb nearby trees. Each morning the bird tables outside the restaurant were loaded with fruit which gave us a perfect view of the eclectic mix of wildlife, including toucans with their unwieldly beaks. One morning a white faced monkey entertained the children by climbing up on the feeding table, loading up on bananas, one under each armpit, one in the mouth and making a quick getaway!
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  • Day 50–52

    La Fortuna (Arenal Volcano NP)

    February 17 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    On our second day we headed out to the Arenal Volcano National Park. The volcano remains active with the last significant eruption in 2010 (the cycle of eruptions began in 1968 with an eruption that destroyed a nearby village). Up until 2010 visitors were wowed with the sight of the volcano spewing ash, steam and lava into the atmosphere, however being dormant currently we were able to safely walk on the lava fields that exist – cue another geography lesson for Elana who was in awe of being so close to a volcano. The walk took us in a loop to the base of the volcano, with steps taking us onto the lava field from 1968, we were able to show Elana where the lava had flowed and solidified (having to explain why it was no-longer hot)! It was amazing how in such a short space of time plant life had strongly re-established. La Fortuna is within the rainforest, the weather was cloudy on most days and occasionally wet. We waited in anticipation for the cloud to lift and give us a clear view of the volcano, however it wasn’t to be albeit we saw most of it with only the top obscured by cloud.

    Along with the volcanic activity in the area there are many hot springs that can be enjoyed in the area, some are free to access (typically rivers at the side of the road) however the more prevalent and enjoyable experiences are at the many resorts that surround La Fortuna. On our final day we visited one of the resorts that had child-friendly facilities. It had many different pools, all fed by the hot springs, and they were kept at a variety of temperatures – typically very hot (with cold plunge pools dotted about the place). The children thoroughly enjoyed themselves and we were able to relax (most of the time). They did have a series of waterslides that Elana insisted we went on with her, she enjoyed the experience we less so! We’re unsure what the slides were made of, probably fibreglass that has been relined numerous times, however the ride was more bumpy than a ride on the dodgems – not good for your back (Elana was content though)!
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  • Day 48–50

    La Fortuna - waterfall & hanging bridges

    February 15 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Upon departing Tortuguero National Park we picked up a hire car and headed on to La Fortuna which is in the shadow of Arenal Volcano (more on that later). Costa Rica is regarded as a good place to self drive so we thought we’d give it a go, it’s nice to have a little more independence and go at our own pace. However having seen some of the driving standards in Central America so far there was some trepidation! The drive to La Fortuna was fairly straight forward and the roads not too bad on the whole, only the torrential rain slowed us down. Speed limits were very changeable and sometimes not very well signed, but with a co-pilot in place we coped! We stayed on the outskirts of La Fortuna in a lovely hotel complex with the all important pool (and several hot tubs to choose from)!

    La Fortuna has a spectacular 70m tall waterfall on the outskirts of town that is popular with tourists. You’re able to swim in the pool at the bottom of the waterfall, so on our first day we headed out to check it out. 530 odd steps later we reached the bottom of the waterfall, it was worth the walk albeit the walk back up was going to be interesting. We all had a dip in the pool at the bottom of the waterfall, however the currents were dangerously strong (making us wonder how many incidents they have annually as there were many weak swimmers taking a dip). We moved on to one of the lower pools where the current was more gently and the view of the waterfall just as pleasing. We all enjoyed cooling off in the clear waters and building up energy for the walk back up. The walk back up wasn’t too bad, Elana was distracted with counting steps and Bert rode on Marks shoulders directing the way!

    In the afternoon we headed out to ‘Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges’. Set within one of the many nature reserves we headed out on a walk through the forest which has bridges spanning valleys taking us into the canopy of the trees below, 6 of the bridges we crossed were suspension bridges which was enjoyable for everyone apart from Helen who hates moving structures! Whilst we were on our walk the weather really closed in and we got soaked through, this limited the animals we were able to see but we enjoyed the variety of flora and the ambience.
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  • Day 46–48

    Tortuguero National Park

    February 13 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    On the 13th February we had an early start, jumping on a coach to head to Tortuguero National Park where we’d spend two nights. The roads out of San Jose were fine, relatively smooth asphalt and relatively little traffic. After a couple of hours we stopped off for breakfast on the edge of the jungle, having already eaten breakfast at the hotel we opted to explore the surrounding jungle. To Elana’s delight we spotted two sloths in the trees not far from the restaurant (from memory they were ‘three toed sloths’ as opposed to ‘two toed’). Further along the journey the once smooth roads became potholed tracks. We passed through vast swathes of banana plantations, predominantly branded ‘Delmonte’. The story goes that the land was gifted to an engineering firm as payment for building an east/west rail line in Coast Rica, to feed the workers they planted banana plantations which have subsequently become a commercial enterprise. Whilst the rail line still exists some parts have been destroyed by earthquakes and never repaired so is no-longer in full use. We stopped for a while watching the workers in the packaging plant wash and pack bananas for onward shipping, something the workers must be used to as there was a steady trickle of coaches.

    We eventually made it to the edge of Tortuguero National Park where we jumped onto boats for transfer onto our hotel. On route a jaguar was spotted crossing the river ahead of us, unfortunately by the time we reached the location it had disappeared into the dense jungle. We did however, see two crocodiles, various birds and iguanas, and on arrival at the hotel, monkeys.

    Our accommodation for the next two nights would be a jungle lodge on the banks of a river that backs the Caribbean Sea. The only way to enter the national park is through an organised tour so we had a pretty intense few days planned for us. After checking in and offloading our bags we headed over to Tortuguero Village (on the other side of the waterway) to see the efforts they are going to conserve the turtle (green and leatherback) population that lay their eggs annually on the beaches between July and October. Having visited a similar initiative in eastern Australia many moons ago it is clear that their approach is not as scientific or as meticulously planned, nonetheless they recognise the need to protect the turtles that return year on year. In Costa Rica there is a real focus on conservation, the country is really clean and green (physically and the way in which they treat the environment) and they go to great efforts to protect their natural environment which includes banning the hunting of animals. The beach fronting onto the Caribbean Sea was absolutely stunning, made up of volcanic sand, we enjoyed spending some time watching the waves pound the shoreline before heading back to our hotel.

    The following morning Helen woke up a year older! Her birthday morning started with an early wake up call (5.30!) to head out on a wildlife spotting tour by boat. During the trip we spotted numerous species that call this area home. Crocodiles, various species of birds, iguanas and white faced monkeys to name a few. On return to the hotel we spotted some sloths hanging about in some trees near our lodge – Elana was delighted! Helen was less delighted when Mark and Elana discovered some tarantula burrows under our lodge, occupied by said tarantulas! The weather was delightfully hot so we elected to spend the remainder of the day around the hotel pool watching the wildlife that surrounded the hotel including the very comical howler monkey family and a wide variety of bird life. Elana had made friends with a French boy who was also on holiday and they had a great time playing in and around the pool. It’s amazing how resilient children are and how, despite the language barrier, they find their own ways to communicate and get along!
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  • Day 44–46

    San Jose

    February 11 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    After a relatively short flight we arrived in Costa Rica. Instantly we could feel that the vibe was different. Costa Rica is heavily reliant on the tourism sector, this was reflected in how everyone we met sold themselves and the country. ‘Pura Vida’ is their motto, ‘Pure Life’ and they use it for all sorts – greetings, expression of thanks, demonstration of happiness… anything!

    San Jose was somewhat less salubrious than we had been accustomed to. It didn’t necessarily feel dangerous but there was clearly a lot of deprivation with associated alcohol and drug problems which just tainted the atmosphere. The city itself has some landmarks that are worthy of visiting (as we did), but they weren’t anything to shout about from our perspective. Something we did see a lot of were sloth teddies being sold which Elana instantly fell for, we promised she could buy one when she sees one in the wild, cue ninja eyes!

    On the full day we had in San Jose we headed to the fantastic local Children’s Museum, it’s a little like the Natural History Museum on a smaller scale. It was set in an old prison and had plenty to entertain and educate the children, it was all relevant to Costa Rica so we could show them what they had to look forward to. There was even an earthquake simulator which Elana loved and went on numerous times, Bert was more reluctant! Some of the old prison cells have been retained along with the graffiti that adorned the walls, not somewhere we’d like to spend too much time!
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