World Learning Journey

January 2017 - January 2018
A 370-day adventure by Karin Read more
  • 77footprints
  • 12countries
  • 370days
  • 214photos
  • 4videos
  • 61.2kkilometers
  • 54.7kkilometers
  • Day 394

    Part 7 - On the Road Again in Asia

    January 29, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    The last "cluster" of my world tour is Asia. As I have visited Vietnam and Cambodia already years ago, my focus this time should be Myanmar, Northern Thailand, maybe Bhutan and Laos.
    Starting from Yangon I am looking forward to explore the country of 1000 pagodas and its neighbors.Read more

  • Day 395

    Yangon and the eclipse

    January 30, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After a very smooth flight from Zurich via Dubai I landed in the beautiful city of Yangon.
    It used to be ruled by the Brits (loads of colonial buildings come from that era) but is now a melting pot of cultures and traditions (there are Chinese, Indian quarters and you will often find a Pagoda, a mosque, an Hindu and Chinese temple just next to each other).
    I had chosen a small hostel in China Town. Whereas in Europe I rarely ever sleep in hostels anymore, Myanmar's hostels are extremely comfortable and convenient and you keep at least some privacy as the beds are set up like small rooms. After settling in I met this funny Japanese guy and we set off to have some street food close by. That's another thing I rarely did in Asia before - just stopping at random street food places to have dinner there. Maybe because the people I traveled with before just got me scared with stories of food poisoning. The food at one of the road side places was amazing - skewers with meat and shrimps, fish,... And this places always have an entertaining factor to it. When we ordered a beer the young woman took the order, then yelled at the next little restaurant next door, there a person forwarded the order to the next one, and it went on like that down the road. A few minutes later a guy who we have never seen before showed up with an ice cold bottle of Myanmar beer.

    One thing you have to do while in Yangon is to hop onto the so called circle train, an old train that encircles the whole city during a three hour ride. It is used by locals to get from the center to the more remote neighborhoods. So on the next morning we bought a ticket for about 200 Kyat/approx. 10 Cent and went on the ride. It is like a journey through Burmese life: the passengers are everything from college students to stylish ladies to poor families with several kids. Once in a while a tourist enters. The train goes from the rather modern areas of Yangon, passes by slums, the backyards of small countryside houses before it returns to the hustle and bustle of the city.
    With every station new sellers come in, offering drinks, grilled snacks and even toiletries.
    Although most guides recommended to hop of after a few stops and then take a taxi back to the city, the trip has been so entertaining that we chose to take the whole ride.

    Another highlight of the city is the Shwedagon Pagoda. It is the biggest and most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar, as it is believed to contain relics of the four previous Buddhas.

    We almost skipped it as the heat, the new surrounding and my jet lag really paid it's tribute.
    But somehow I could get myself together and my travel buddy ready too. Even the hostel staff encouraged us to see it before and after sunset as it will be a magic moment with all the nuns lighting candles. The local bus to get to the close by people's park is again something you need to get used to. Often the buses are donations from richer Asian countries and still have the destinations written on in that language. So for example one bus would have the final destination written on in Japanese. Usually and that makes it easier then again, the number of the bus line is sticked to the front window of the bus.
    And google maps helps so much in these situations to just get an understanding where approximately you have to hop off, the closest stop to the pagoda was People's Park.
    We walked through the park that is full of lights and families on their evening walk when the golden top of the pagoda appears before us and next to it the moon. But it looked like a half-eaten cookie. "Wow an eclipse" comes to my mind but then logic kicks in and I tell myself it would be impossible, we would have read about it,...
    So we walk further and see this massive crowd of photographers with tele lenses all lined up before the pagoda. My travel buddy who did some internet search in the meantime said next to me: "oh it actually IS an ECLIPSE".
    That moment stayed a joke throughout all our journey together, the Austrian and Japanese idiot standing in front of the most sacred and beautiful places in Asia with the eclipse right behind the golden roof of the pagoda and are wondering why the moon looks like a half-eaten cookie.

    It was a quite remarkable moment seeing the moon disappear completely and then very very slowly showing up again.
    On a night like that the pagoda seemed to be even more special with people, nuns and monks lighting incent sticks and candles, offering to the buddhas and praying.
    What a beautiful moment to be in this beautiful country!
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  • Day 397

    A day off from city life in Dalah

    February 1, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    City life is beautiful but with the heat it can also be a bit tiring, so when we found a folder in the hostel that was promoting bike trips to the surrounding and more rural areas we decided to give it a go and book a half day trip to a small town called Dalah, just across the river from Yangon.
    Funny enough the guy replies on my booking mail in German. He is an Austrian who has set up a small bike and trek business in Yangon.
    So in the morning after picking up our mountain bikes and helmets and meet our guide who first navigates us through the city traffic, we get onto a ferry who takes us across the river.
    The ferry is mainly used by locals who work in Yangon but live in the town.
    Getting off the ferry we enter another world.
    Although the harbor is full of motorbike taxis and tuktuks the small town feels like 100 years back in time. Small bamboo houses line up next to the road and kids are playing on the streets.
    With the bikes we can take small alleys. Kids are running towards us, saying "Hi" and trying to give us high fives that. Not an easy task when you are cycling while balancing the bike on the small concrete path.
    We stop by a local market to try some rice based snacks and later at a local tea house.
    Tea, introduced by the British, still plays an important role in Myanmar and there are small teahouses on every street.
    After a few hours of cycling we first take a small boat and then the ferry again to get back to town.
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  • Day 401

    Hike from Kalaw to Inle Lake Day 1

    February 5, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Kalaw, a small town surrounded by hills situated Northeast of the capital Naypyitaw, is the starting point of a range of hikes to and around Inle Lake.
    The amount of tour guides and small agencies that offer their services is remarkable.
    I dropped by a small agency some days earlier and their offer for a two day hike seemed perfect -pick up and transfer to the starting point, transfer of our luggage to the boat station, full board, overnight stay at a family's place and a boat trip on Inle Lake and a group size of max. 6 people. We - a German girl and a Japanese/British guy I met in the beginning of my trip and I - then got picked up by the owner of the agency and our guide for the next days called "Star".
    He turned out to be a real star during our trip.
    A brother/sister team from Belgium who are also on a World trip and volunteering in different places joined us.
    Already the transfer to the starting point of our hike was quite exciting already. We got onto the typical local taxi - a small truck with very simple benches at its load space, tarpaulin to protect from dust, wind and sun and grab handles to avoid that we would fall over on the bumpy roads. We drove by hilltop pagodas, through small villages and over fragile bridges.
    After a 30 min. drive our hike started. It is dry season at the moment, which makes hiking on one hand a bit easier as the ground is solid, but also harder because of the hot temperature and dry air.
    The first few hours of the trail went through dry rice paddies, fields where farmers were harvesting huge ginger roots mostly by hand or with very simple tools.
    Babies were breastfed by their mums in the shade, before getting back to work and toddlers playing under an umbrella out on the field.
    What strikes me most is how (physically) hard working the women are in this country and how the kids are just brought along everywhere - they are on motorbike, in and on top of the fruit seller's stand, in between tons of chilies and playing in the field next to their working family members.
    Our first break brought us to a small village (a spot that seemed to be used by all tours) where we got offered tea and sugar cane candies and could watch an elderly lady weave traditional scarfs and bags.
    The weaving is done on a back-strap loom and the lady needs around 2-3 days to finish one scarf.
    (I loved her fluffy pink earrings that where made of wool oddments)
    The next few hours of the trek went along chili fields. Women where sitting in them surround by bushes full of shiny red chili peppers. The closer we got the stronger the spicy smell got in the air.
    Once the chilies are picked and collected in bamboo baskets, the get brought to the farm house, spread on sheets to dry in the sun, then sorted and sold.
    During the whole trek stark jumped like a little goat in front of the group, singing and joking and then for the lunch break he magically put a home cooked dish on our plates.
    In the afternoon we came across local kids who got very excited about seeing themselves on pictures in my camera, farmers and bamboo basket makers before getting to the small village where we would stay for the night.
    The family gave us a warm welcome and showed us the beds for the night and the bucket shower.
    The husband took as on a very short hike to the top of a close by mountain to watch the sun set.
    It felt like a journey back in time looking down onto the open field - buffalo carriage bringing the harvest to the village, women with baskets on their head and babies tied to their back on their way home, chatting and laughing and all tinted into the reddish light of the sun.
    Once back at the homestay we got served an impressive local dinner that the family had prepared in the meantime with Star's support and starlike cooking skills.
    The small town get dark quickly, as most house either have no electricity or rely on a small solar panel. The low amount of artificial lighting lets the stars (the real one not the guide) shine even brighter.
    After a day in the sun, hiking the hills and load of encounters with locals we hit our pillow at around 8pm. But not before the family provided us with more blankets to keep us warm during the cold night in the small house under a million stars.
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  • Day 402

    Hike from Kalaw to Inle Lake Day 2

    February 6, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ 🌫 8 °C

    After a breakfast with pancakes, cookies and a local sweet that looks like cornflakes pressed into dices we started our second hiking day.
    On day 1 we hiked about 20km and today the distance would be a bit shorter.
    This part seemed also slightly steeper but after a few hours we reached the checkpoint that marks the boarder to the Inle Lake area. Visitors are asked to pay around 8 Euro to enter it and it allows one to stay for up to 5 days.
    After a short coffee break the trek let us trough open fields, over red earth and then through areas formed by volcanos before we could spot the shimmering surface of the lake in the distance.

    The heat and a slightly swollen ankle made me look forward to the boat ride on the lake even more.
    But chats and jokes with our new friends let the time fly and soon we got to the restaurant where we would stop for lunch before getting picked up by the boat.
    The slim, long motorboat then took us on the small channel to the open lake.
    Along the channel but already in the water farmers were planting all kinds of vegetables and fruits in swimming gardens - tomatoes, beans, strawberries,... to maintain the gardens and for the harvest they are moving around in small canoes.
    It seemed like a beautiful working place but loads of hard work.
    The houses around the lake are build on stilts and made of metal, wood or bamboo matts.
    As part of the trip we stopped by local silversmith, weaving and Shan paper workshops also located in houses on stilts.
    The weaving is done by the quite famous long neck
    Although the techniques and the products looked interesting and beautiful it seemed to be mainly a tourist attraction with horrendous prices.
    From the workshops we took off towards the open lake, passing by golden pagodas that are almost build on the water. The lake itself (one of the most famous spots in Myanmar) is full of boats moving locals, goods an tourist across the lake and in between this bustle and hustle fishermen are maneuvering their boats. The traditional boats are moved with an oar that the fisherman operates with his leg. He balancing himself with one foot standing on the edge of the boat. With this method his hands stay free to handle the net and bring in his catch.
    After an exciting day we checked into our hostel - the Song of Travel Hostel - an amazing place in Nyaung Shwe, one of the main towns at the lake and closed the day with bbq, some Myanmar beer and lots of laughter with the funny Belgium guys.
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  • Day 405

    Inle Lake at Sunset and the 1000 buddhas

    February 9, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today I've enjoyed my first Shan or Anaite Massage, to get rid of all the sore muscles that we've got from all the hiking and biking. First I got served some tea, tasting a bit like a spicy chai, then offered the "massage menu" with the different massage styles and treatments they offer.
    I chose the traditional one and was guided to the upper floor, where I got a ginger food bath and then traditional clothes, like a pajama, to wear during the massage. The Anaite Massage, feels a bit similar to Shiatsu and you keep the clothes on during the whole session. The young girl then stepped on my back, pulled up my upper body while standing on my butt, used all her joins - elbows, knees, knuckles - to release any tension in my body. The experience is quite intense but a warm fluffy feeling overcomes the whole body once the treatment is over.

    After that I got a motorbike that brought me to the North part of the city, where the Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung monastery is located.
    The wooden meditation house is already really interesting - constructed of wood and placed on stilts and with big round windows, letting the sunlight brighten the room and the big golden buddha.
    If I would't have read about it before I would have almost mist the small temple filled with hundreds of small buddhas that were donated by local and international pilgrims.
    The patina on the walls and the fact that the whole place isn't perfectly renovated, makes it an amazing photo spot. Usually the place is packed with tourists, but as Myanmar is seeing a drop in tourist numbers this year, there were just about 10 other there.

    The motorbike took me back to the hostel where we almost immediately headed for the next adventure - a sunset boat trip. A motorbike driver asked us to follow him on our bike through the busy late afternoon traffic to a small side channel. We got on one of the long motorboats and headed towards the lake.
    There the fake but still iconic fishermen seemed already waiting for us. As they found better ways to catch their fish than the traditional baskets, the ones
    that can still be found on their boats on the lake are just for the tourists. After a while it felt a bit awkward having them waiting for us to take more pictures and posing in yoga like poses with their baskets for the camera.
    The boatdriver went a bit further, parked the boat on a small patch of water plants and we could enjoy an amazing sunset over the lake and the surrounding mountains.
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  • Day 405

    Cycling Tour Inle Lake

    February 9, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Regardless the quite warm weather, my current travel buddy Tak and I decided to rent a bike and cycle for a 35km roundtrip along the Northern side of the lake.
    Once you leave the quite touristic town of Nyaungshwe where we are currently staying the area pretty quickly becomes quite rural. There are moments when you feel like you are send back in time - at least a hundred to hundred fifty years ago from a European perspective. A lot is done by hand and farmers use cows or buffalos to till their fields.
    We cycled through small villages, bamboo forests and then took a small boat to set across the lake.
    I just love the atmosphere in the areas of the lake that are less touristic - the houses are build on stilts and are often surrounded by floating gardens. The owner's boats are parked in front or under the house and people move around in slim, long motorboats, canoes or rowing boats. As so much is done manually and happens on water the whole life of the villagers seems to be hard work but done in a very calm and focused way.
    We had lunch in a family restaurant on stilts that let us observe the beautiful scene around the place - people cooking, washing themselves and clothes in the canal, men crafting bamboo baskets,...
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