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  • Day 96

    And So Our Adventure Ends... For Now

    September 23, 2022 in Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Jess’ final words:

    The last 3 months have been nothing short of a real adventure. This really has been the best 3 months of our lives. It's been extremely eye opening to see different ways of living, different cultures, people and attitudes. We've learnt so much, come away thinking twice about what real problems are as well as what life is really all about. On many occasions I've been pushed out of my comfort zone, with the spontaneous 'go with flow' way of living definitely taking me some time to get used to but this has all added to my personal journey. And to say this was all done out of a single backpack - yes I managed this!

    6 countries, 33 locations, 13 flights, 11 boat crossings, 7 bus journeys, 2 trains and countless scooter rides, taxis and tuk tuks. We leave Asia with the most unforgettable memories. It has been such an incredible experience and to top it off we return home as fiancés. Farewell for now Southeast Asia… you've been a blast, but we will definitely be back!

    Dan’s final words:

    What a truly life changing experience! Southeast Asia really is a wonderful part of the world filled with some of the happiest people, stunning views, beautiful culture and delicious food. So many memories have been made from diving in Thailand, Kuang Si falls in Laos, an engagement in Vietnam, Angkor Wat in Cambodia, Ubud in Bali, Mount Rinjani of Lombok and so much more, all whilst living out of a backpack. Our adventure has continued to emphasise what really matters in life. It’s not about the items you own, nor the money you have but it’s about creating lasting memories, making the most out of what you have and being happy no matter how difficult times may seem as I can assure you, we really do have it okay in comparison to some.

    We’ve really struggled to name our favourite country given there is such variety out there but after much deliberation we have finally given the top spot to Indonesia with Thailand right behind. That being said we’ve loved every single minute and genuinely would not hesitate to get back on a plane tomorrow if we could. It really was an experience of a lifetime and I would happily recommend it anyone!
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  • Day 96

    So Long Singapore

    September 23, 2022 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    All good things have to come to an end and for us, that day is today. As our flight was not until 21.40, we had the whole day and left for Sentosa island, an island of activities just off the mainland. Here we visited SEA Aquarium, one of the biggest on the world. It was great seeing all the marine life including sharks, rays, jelly fish, octopus, reef fish although the highlight was the centre stage aquarium viewed through a huge single glass pane measuring 36m long, 8m tall and 0.7m thick.

    After a few hours we took the final MRT to Changi airport, which in itself is an attraction so we were keen to arrive early and explore. As you can imagine, Singapore didn’t skimp on their airport and it was nice just walking around looking at the various architecture and design. The highlight was The Jewel, a large, round glass-topped building filled with shops around the outside and a massive water feature inside. It was full of plants, flowers, viewing points, lighting and of course the full length water vortex flowing from the roof down through the floor. The flow lit up as the sun began to fade and was like being inside a man-made jungle of the future. Not a bad place to wait! There were various extra paid attractions inside including high rope net walks, mazes and bridges but we were more than happy just sitting back and relaxing ahead of our flight. We wondered around and ate dinner before finally making it to our last gate ready for the flight back to UK via Dubai, on the Emirates double decker A380.

    We've absolutely loved Singapore. It really has been a fantastic end to our journey, although such a contrast to other places we've travelled. There is of course a significant amount of wealth here but a real clean and tidy feel all set within a very well developed, modern city that is clearly pushing the boundaries of modern architecture and design. Although expensive, we've been able to enjoy Singapore for no more than an average days budget. By just being a little savvy with food, drink and attractions we've left more than content with what we've seen and done although what a playground Singapore could be if you had the money.
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  • Day 95

    Exploring More of Singapore

    September 22, 2022 in Singapore ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    After an extremely busy day yesterday, we had a slower morning today. We woke up to rain which passed after an hour or so, after which we decided to look around Singapore Botanical Gardens, a UNESCO world heritage site. We spent a good couple of hours wandering around the park and similar to Gardens by the Bay, had lots of zones to explore such as wetlands, ginger garden, herbs and spices, orchid garden etc. Although still man-made this nature park had more of an authentic, natural feel compared to Gardens by the Bay. Later on we walked Haji lane, a well known vibrant, colourful street although we both found this to be a little underwhelming and didn’t wow us like we hoped it would. We then visited Little India, a couple of stops down on the MRT and stumbled across an Indian food market for some tasty lunch.

    Afterwards, we relaxed at the hotel for a couple of hours before leaving for Marina Bay, once again to watch another light show on water that's played every night in front of the Marina Bay. This was probably one of the best light shows we've ever seen and by far the best on our travels. For a free show it really was special, with lights projecting onto colourful fountains and huge water fans all set to music in front of the Singapore skyline. It was so mesmerising to watch and of course you need to be there to appreciate the drama. We also saw the Merlion statue again, but this time with more changing light projections mapped over it. Singapore by night really is something else. The skyline is just stunning and the whole area has a real buzz with far more people, many of whom are dining in bars and restaurants. Just next to the light show was a glass domed building, built on the lake. Looking closer we spotted this was an Apple store! Goodness knows how they got permission to construct this on the water, but by far the most impressive Apple store we've ever seen! Despite a ‘slower day’ we still managed just under 30,000 steps.
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  • Day 94

    Flower Dome & Cloud Forest, Singapore

    September 21, 2022 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Later in the afternoon we returned to Gardens by the Bay to visit two conservatory attractions, the Flower Dome (the largest greenhouse in the world) and the Cloud Forest. Compared to other parts of the gardens, we did have to pay for these attractions but thought it was worth a look. The Flower Dome unsurprisingly contained all sorts of flowers from all over the world, although it seemed other tourists were far more interested in reading and photographing particular species of plants than we were. We stayed and looked around for an hour or so before moving onto Cloud Forest which contained one of the largest indoor artificial waterfalls. Cloud Forest centred around a large structure showing different vegetation levels growing at various altitudes down to sea level. The structure included another skywalk and every few hours a cloud show would fill the entire space with mist.

    As you can imagine, Singapore is not cheap. Restaurant food looks to have no limit so we've opted to eat at Hawker centres. This is an indoor food hall filled with street vendors selling much cheaper local food. There are loads of these Hawker centres around Singapore but we ate at Amoy Hawker centre. This was far more in line with what we’ve been used to and could enjoy good, local food for a fraction of restaurant price albeit still much more than the rest of southeast Asia.

    Afterwards, we walked back to the Gardens, walking on part of what would soon become the Singapore F1 track, to watch the night time light show under the Supertree Grove. Tonight’s theme was retro music. We weren’t quite sure what to expect having seen a few light shows on various monuments during our travels, but this show was very good!

    Really enjoying Singapore so far. Our first impressions are that it is a pretty place, extremely modern as you'd expect but also very clean. We have not seen litter anywhere - Singapore really does put UK to shame in this regard. Today's been a busy day and and we've walked over 35,000 steps. A good nights sleep is due tonight!
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  • Day 94

    Marina Bay, Singapore

    September 21, 2022 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We arrived in Singapore yesterday. Long story short, it was a bit of a nightmare with one flight being delayed by over three hours. Luckily we didn’t miss our connecting flight from Kuala Lumpur and made it to Singapore for the evening. We stayed at a budget hotel, no more than a basic but clean room with a private bathroom. Capsule pods were the same sort of price but of course were capsules not private rooms. Funnily enough, this small hotel room cost the same as the luxury golden hotel in Hanoi, Vietnam.

    Today was our first day exploring Singapore. We'd bought a travel card which gave us unlimited use on the MRT (Singapore’s equivalent to the London Underground) for the duration of our stay. The MRT was great and in fact just a better version of the underground. It had air con, was more spacious and included small details such as timings between stations, lights on the map in the carriage to indicate which direction the route was going and signs which lit up to show you which side to exit from etc. Very minor details but made travel so much easier!

    Our first stop was Gardens by the Bay, a man-made nature park spanning an area of 250 acres, consisting of a diverse range of flora and fauna from across the world. It also contained a well known attraction called Supertree Grove, a complex of large metal tree structures. We spent a couple of hours wandering around the gardens which had many different areas to explore such as a cactus zone, silver garden, fruits and flowers, colonial garden and much more. After grabbing a bite to eat, we took a stroll around Marina Bay. Throughout the afternoon we visited the Marina Sands shopping centre, Merlion statue and Marina Bay Sands Hotel. Some may recognise this iconic hotel which looks like a ship on top of three skyscrapers. It's massive and an amazing piece of architecture although clearly was well out of our budget with room prices starting at £500 a night. The shopping centre was very upmarket with many designer shops and even a water feature running through it.
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  • Day 92

    Rest Day in Kuta

    September 19, 2022 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    As expected our legs ached from the trek so we decided to have a chill day and relax at a couple of beaches in Kuta. The first being Mawun beach, where we enjoyed a few hours to sunbathe. It was a quiet bay with white sand and very few people around, although unfortunately there was a fair amount of plastic in the ocean which seems to be quite common around south Lombok. Of course within minutes of walking along the sand we were pestered by various locals asking if we wanted a sun bed, until we finally gave in and agreed to one each. Within a few more minutes two young girls came up to Jess looking to sell a bracelet. They appeared to speak good English but in reality we suspect it was a very well learnt script which included ‘you look pretty like an angel’ and ‘he is a lucky man’. After that Jess agreed to buy a bracelet for around 30p which they seemed happy about. After chatting to the owner of this shack it became clear our lives were very different. He was very forward and interested in UK living including salaries, housing and transport which we were open to discuss. It turns out our 3 month travel budget would buy a house in Lombok. The man was very shocked to hear this however when we told him UK houses started at £250k for something small, he just couldn’t believe it. He spoke relatively good English but was unable to read or write, so we also ended up helping him with a conversation on WhatsApp he'd been having with another English couple he'd met a few weeks ago. This English couple apparently wanted a small holiday home in Lombok and he wanted to build it for them on his land to which they seemed genuinely interested in, although acting as a translator was a bit strange.

    We parted ways and left for another beach called Tanjung Aan. Again, another quiet beach with little around but an easy place to relax whilst watching people trying to surf. There was a large rocky platform covered with rock pools which we wandered around. Here we noticed so many crabs scurrying across the rocks, even jumping between each one trying to dodge the incoming waves.

    Lombok’s equivalent of an ice cream van was a scooter with a polystyrene cool box strapped to the back. ‘Ice cream, ice cream’ he called and rode straight over to us. Of course we had to get one.

    Riding back we passed Pertamina Mandalika race track. We still need to read up more on this track but we understand it is relatively new, and perhaps this could be a new race track for Moto GP or F1. We did spot a statue of an F1 car in the middle of the roundabout so who knows. It looked as if a serious amount of money was being put into surrounding infrastructure, perhaps gearing up to accommodate with mass tourism in the future. Most of Kuta was little more than shacks along a road and the odd restaurant or bar by the many beaches. In contrast, this newly developed infrastructure included miles of wide bricked pavements with frequent benches, freshly laid dual carriageways, modern looking street lamps and bus stops all with loads of plants that were all being watered by multiple tankers. This may seem normal for UK, but this sort of infrastructure is rare in southeast Asia, let alone the small island of Lombok, currently considered to be the unspoiled Bali. It really did look out of place with the rest of the island but it wouldn't surprise us if Kuta was preparing for increasing tourism as a result of the race track. Maybe one to watch over the next 5-10 years.

    In the evening we rode to the centre of Kuta. We walked to Kuta beach but were shocked to see one area of the beach completely covered in rubbish. Definitely not a nice beach compared to the ones we had visited earlier in the day. We then had dinner in town and returned back to our hotel to get ready for our flight to Singapore the next morning.

    Kuta is definitely a place we could have spent a couple more days exploring, however the trek meant that time had to give somewhere. It really has been a flying visit to Lombok and if time was on our side we would have happily stayed for longer. Many people say that Lombok is the ‘untouched Bali’ and we have to agree. Plenty of land and greenery and far fewer tourists, however it will be interesting to see how this may all change over the next decade or so.
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  • Day 90

    Mount Rinjani, The Summit

    September 17, 2022 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    1.30am - we crawled out of our tents pretty tired. Unfortunately sleeping on rock was very uncomfortable needing to keep rotating throughout the night and we probably only had an hour or two of sleep. We were given breakfast which was two slices of bread, not ideal for what was to come. Overall, we both felt the food portions were too small considering the intensity of the trek, but never mind. We began the summit trek at 2.20am with the climb taking us straight to the summit at 3726m. Although only another 1100m up, we had been warned about the technical difficulty of this part, with almost all of the terrain being loose, sandy volcanic ash. The hike was only 4km but with an elevation increase of 1100m and the extremely challenging terrain, it would take us four hours to cover this distance. As we began to hike, it became clear this was no joke. We had never hiked on anything like it and for every 2 steps forward we would slip at least 1 step back. 30 minutes in and completely out of breath, we stopped to ask the guide ‘surely it’s not this for the next 4 hours?’ He spoke little English but did understand our question and responded ‘yes, yes it is and it gets steeper as we ascent.’ Great! Nevertheless, we pushed on in the darkness with our head torches, taking it one step at a time. At this point, people in our group started walking at different paces so became separated. There was only one path to the summit, up a narrow ridge which at times was no more than 1m wide. Looking over the side of the ridge we could see a steep drop, where at times a wrong footing would have been our last. As we looked back we could see a line of glowing head torches along the ridge behind us. The final 1km of linear distance was the hardest with a 300-400m ascent. Although steep, this would've been manageable on solid ground, however the ground was far from solid, in fact we were now walking on the loosest and steepest terrain we had encountered yet. At times we had to physically scramble up the scree/ ash on hands as well as feet. It was so hard especially with the altitude and still the summit felt so far away. It was fair to say this final climb was extremely difficult both physically and mentally. Once we were half way up the steep slope, the sun started to rise and it was beautiful. We pushed and pushed, one step then the next sliding and falling down countless times. 20-30 minutes after the sun began to rise, we eventually made it, 3726m up!! It was 1°C and windy but the views were out of this world and this absolutely made the trek worth it! We looked down on clouds in the distance although luckily for us there were no clouds nearby to spoil the view. The sun was glowing orange and casting shadows on the land below behind the lower altitude peaks and into the crater filled with water. The tents at the crater rim now looked little more than specs of colour. Unfortunately a few members of our group didn’t make it, but we celebrated with those who had at the top. We stayed at the summit a little while but not too long as we soon cooled down. At this point the hard part was over but we still had a 2700m descent to make back down to the start point. The climb down to the crater rim was mentally quite draining as with each step we'd skid and slide everywhere. Climbing up, with each two steps up would be one step back. Going down was the opposite… with each step down we'd slide another step forward so concentration was a must. Everyone was falling over, including us both on multiple occasions. It was only at this point in clear daylight that we appreciated the craziness of the terrain we had just climbed. We eventually got back to the campsite at the crater rim and honestly breakfast could not have come sooner. The reward for the most intense activity we'd ever done… a single cold banana pancake! You can imagine our faces when we were handed that on a plastic plate.

    After a short lay down in the tent it was time to move on and begin the final walk down from the crater rim at 2700m to the start point at 1000m. Trying to walk down hill was interesting as we kept skidding and losing our footing on the dirt as our legs were so worn out. Luckily the gradient started to ease as we walked further down. Although not easy on the legs, it was of course much easier going down. The porters carrying equipment literally jogged down the steep hill in their flip flops yet again. We cannot understand how they do it. We passed each rest point and said hello the unfortunate victims climbing up, with a slight smugness in our tone this time. As on the way up, our porter cooked us lunch at rest point 2. It was then the final push back to the starting point to be picked up. We had never been so happy to see the pickup truck. Our legs hurt, and in one day we had hiked to the summit and all the way back down again. All in all an extremely intense 28 hours with very little food and sleep; we had climbed 2700m up to 3726m and back down in over 60,000 steps. Jess burned 9000 calories and Dan burned 12,000 calories.

    This was by far the toughest physical challenge we've both ever tried, but we’re so pleased to have completed it although felt it was made even harder having eaten such little food.

    We then had the journey back to Senaru followed by a three hour journey to Kuta in the south of Lombok, our final destination in Indonesia. The journey was not fun especially after the trek, although we had the nicest taxi driver who willingly stopped at KFC and waited for us to scoff a KFC burger meal each. That alone didn’t quite do the trick so we ordered another bargain bucket to takeaway and also scoffed that in the taxi. After checking in to a rather nice homestay in Kuta, it was off to bed to at last recharge.
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  • Day 90

    Mount Rinjani, Crater Rim

    September 17, 2022 in Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Up at 6.30am, we had breakfast and were bundled into the back of a pickup truck with the rest of our group (7 people in total) to drive to the start point. Something we hadn’t read up on before arriving at Indonesia is that throughout the entire day prayers are played in the villages through a loud speaker (including on the Gili Islands as mentioned). Unfortunately for us, the loud speaker was very nearby so having been woken up at 2am, then 4am wasn’t the best start to the day.

    The nerves definitely started to kick in as the realisation of what was yet to come dawned on us. On the way, we stopped off at a very small hospital for a health check up, where they took our blood pressure, height and weight to determine whether we were fit enough to do the trek which we were.

    We left the starting point which sits at 1000m above sea level at 9.00am hoping to arrive at the crater rim before sunset. On the previous night's briefing, it was explained that the first 4 hours of the walk (to rest point 1, 2, and 3) would be the warm up. Although not a walk in the park, the first few hours were okay with a relatively gentle uphill gradient as we ascended to rest point 2 at an altitude of 1500m for lunch. We should mention as part of this trek we did not carry any food, cooking equipment, tents or sleeping gear. This was all carried by our porters. Porters are locals whose job is to literally carry our gear to the top so we could ‘enjoy’ the trek with nothing but our own bags consisting of clothes, snacks and a bottle of water. These porters are absolutely built of something else. They carry 20-30kg of gear in baskets tied to a wooden stick which rests on their shoulder as they climb up. They do not stop to rest and usually get ahead of the group, despite us only carrying a small backpack. Although arguably the most impressive part of all is that they do the trek wearing a pair of flip flops!

    After the third rest point and 4 hours of hiking, the gradient started to increase more significantly as we began to walk up dirt and sandy gravel tracks. These proved more difficult needing to concentrate on our footing and sometimes slipping backwards. The next and final rest point of the day was at the crater rim another 800m up. This was a head down and just go kind of job. A slow but steady pace and we later arrived at the crater rim at 4pm, above most clouds. This was our base for the night at an elevation of 2600m, ascending 1600m today.

    Having arrived we discovered that two of our three porters were there however the third was not. Long story short, he got cramp and really struggled to walk so arrived very late. The plan was to arrive, set up, eat and get to sleep at 6pm before sunset but we didn’t manage to eat until 8pm. Nonetheless, the views at the crater rim were breathtaking so it wasn’t a bad place to wait although it was significantly colder. We could see into the volcano crater which had a lake inside. We could also see most of Lombok from here and in the distance we could see Bali’s tallest volcano, Mount Agung. We enjoyed the sunset, albeit hungry and ready for bed, but did eventually eat and got straight to bed at 8pm ready for the 1.30am wake up the next morning.
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  • Day 89

    Sengiggi & Senaru, Lombok

    September 16, 2022 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We arrived in Lombok yesterday morning flowing a short boat ride from Gili T. The shuttle bus from the port at Lombok to Sengiggi took a little longer than planned so we didn’t arrive there until 3pm, although this wasn't really an issue as there wasn't too much to do there anyway. Whilst waiting for our shuttle bus, one guy managed to talk us into booking a trek up Mt Rinjani including an overnight camp on the crater rim. Mt Rinjani is Indonesia’s second tallest volcano at 3726m tall. Before coming to Lombok, we'd both agreed against doing the trek since the whole purpose of visiting Lombok is to relax and wind down on its many calm white sand beaches. The Mt Rinjani trek is also an expensive one however we were offered a really good price. Ever the adventurer, you could see Jess was keen and after some persuasive discussion we decided to go for it. A very sudden change of plan and a complete contrast to what we had in mind. Perhaps our decision was a little spontaneous without considering all the logistics, but this will certainly be an adventure. After signing up, we then read countless blogs about the trek being rather difficult frequently referring to a 6 week training plan in the run up to the trek and clearly far more technically difficult than we'd anticipated, so who knows what we are really getting ourselves into.

    As part of the tour, we had to travel to Senaru (an area closer to the volcano) a day before the trek began. We arrived in a home stay accommodation as part of the package which was very basic but it would do the job for one night. Senaru as an area was really pretty and our accommodation looked over a valley of jungles, fields and rice terraces. The driver literally just dropped us off at the accommodation so we were left waiting around for a little bit, unsure what to do. The booking agency had told us we could spend the afternoon seeing two waterfalls with a guide, so we enquired about this with the homestay accommodation. Unfortunately we then discovered they had not been informed about this. Not the best organisation from the tour agency but not to worry. Eventually we had a guide who took us to the two waterfalls. Great scenery on our walk and the waterfalls were beautiful, a real sight although not the type you could swim under. After dinner we had a briefing regarding the upcoming trek and let’s just say the difficulty wasn’t sugar coated. We then called it a night nice and early.
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