• День 24

    Daytrip to Salzburg

    24 сентября 2023 г., Австрия ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Woke up to better weather again today. Perfect for our planned daytrip to the historic city of Salzburg. With our breakfasts loaded into my backpack off we went for the 20 min walk to the train station. On arrival, we first grabbed a coffee and then could not resist the temptation to pick up a couple croissants as well. Our planned breakfast would now become our lunch instead!

    It was a pleasant 1 3/4 hr train ride with lots of nice scenery along the way. On arrival in Salzburg we used our GPSmyCity app to start our walking tour. First destination was Mirabell Palace and Gardens. The grounds are beautifully landscaped with colourful flowers, a fountain and there are several mythology themed statues dating back to 1730 and created by an Italian sculptor. These garden are also where the “Do Re Mi” song from the Sound of Music was filmed.

    From here we started walking in the direction of the Hohensalzburg Fortress which dominates the skyline over Salzburg. As we neared the river that runs through Salzburg, we could see that there was a long row of market stalls setup along a walking path on the other side. We decided to check that out. Lots of attractive handicrafts being sold.

    As we continued on towards the fortress, we discovered Getreidegasse. It is a colourful street with lots of wrought iron signs advertising the numerous shops lining the street. It has been the centre of trade since Roman times and the buildings date mainly from the 15th century. This street also lead us to Alter Markt where there was a big celebration happening with a huge crowd of people eating, drinking, rides for the kids, or just walking around in their lederhosen. Upon asking, we learned that September 24 is Saint Rupert’s Day, a regional holiday in honour of the patron saint and founder of Salzburg.

    At the base of the mountain below the fortress we discovered St. Peter’s Abbey and Cemetery. It dates back to 690 and forms part of the oldest functioning monastery in Austria. It is also where a scene from the Sound of Music was filmed. We were able to access a stairway carved into the stone wall alongside the property and get a nice view of the area.

    To reach the top of the mountain and visit the fortress there is a funicular railway. We could have walked as well, but there is a package price that includes both a return trip on the funicular as well as entrance to the museums and other points of interest in the fortress. It was a short but exciting little ride up the steep mountainside and to the entrance of the fortress. The fortress covers a fairly large area and there is a lot to see. We took in the many panoramic views of the city below, the surrounding mountains and the plains. And, we walked through a history museum.

    It was late afternoon and I’m sure we’d walked at least 15,000 steps already so it was time for a rest and cold beverage before heading back to the train station. We caught a 4:56 pm train that arrived about 15 mins late and took us back to Innsbruck by 7 pm. Just in time for a late dinner and then back to our hotel.
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  • День 22

    Train to Innsbruck & Touring Innsbruck

    22 сентября 2023 г., Австрия ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    We packed up and headed from Budapest to Innsbruck by train today. The first leg was originally going to take us to Vienna, and we would switch there to a train to Innsbruck. However, we had comfortable seats on this train, and I noticed that it was actually going as far as Munich via Salzberg, so we elected to stay on the train. In Salzburg we had a short wait for the final leg of the trip, which was about 1 3/4 hours in length. We were lucky to get seats because the train was very busy and we did not have reservations. We chose two seats that were reserved. However, the individuals that reserved those seats didn’t show up for the ride so we had the seats to ourselves.

    It was just before 6 pm when arrived in Innsbruck. It was raining so we put on our rain jackets for the 15 min walk to our hotel. At the hotel, we took a short break and then went out for dinner. We found a nice place just around the corner, but they were sold out and we didn’t have a reservation. So, on we went, looking for other options. Eventually, we settled on a pizza/pasta restaurant just across the street from our hotel. It was a good dinner at an affordable price.

    The following morning we headed out to find a spot for coffee and breakfast. We ended up at “The Breakfast Club”, but just as was the case with dinner last night, we needed a reservation. Luckily, they had a place for us in a second location nearby. We each had a coffee. Laura ordered French toast for breakfast and I had rice pudding. It was good.

    Using an app with a walking tour, we started visiting some of the sights in the city. It was raining lightly but we had umbrellas from the hotel and our rain jackets. We visited the Triumphal Arch, built in 1765 to celebrate a wedding between Archduke Leopold and his bride, Princess Maria Luisa of Spain. And, Eduard-Wallnofer Square, Maria-Theresien Straße (a pedestrian only shopping street), The Golden Roof (constructed in the 1400’s to be a residence for the rulers of Tyrol) and the Town Tower (built in 1444). We then picked up some food at a grocer and went back to our room for a lunch break.

    During lunch we looked at what else was of interest to us in Innsbruck. With the weather not being great, we decided to head to Schloss Ambras, a castle built in the 16th century and converted to a museum in 1880. Archduke Ferdinand II lived in the castle and while doing so designated an area to be used to house his collection of art and other items. The museum has existed ever since and is now considered to be the oldest in the world. We were absolutely amazed by the collections we saw in the museum. Especially, the collection of armour worn, and the weapons used, in battle and jousting competitions in the 16th century. As well, we were able to tour the rest of the castle and see the original Spanish Hall, the Chapel and a number of other rooms as well as the grounds surrounding the castle.

    One art item, The Fools’s Plate, caught our attention. It is a detailed painting on a wooden plate created around 1528 and is an incredible document of the carnival of the early 16th century. We watched a short film and learned all about the hidden meanings in the painting. At first glance, it seems to be a confused jumble of almost 60 figures in numerous scenes. A closer look, reveals an ingenious system as well as precisely thought out connections in the painterly design.

    We spent pretty much the entire afternoon on the visit to the castle. We tried to grab a dinner at an IKEA located near the castle, but we were a bit too late getting there. Instead, we went to a kebab restaurant in town instead. We toured a bit more on foot afterwards, saw the Imperial Palace and walked along a stretch of the river, doing a loop between two bridges across the river. By the time we were back at our hotel, we had again clocked 20,000+ steps!
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  • День 21

    Budapest - Day 2

    21 сентября 2023 г., Венгрия ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We saw a lot of Budapest yesterday, but not nearly all of it! Today we are doing some more touring. This time we are on our own. It’s actually raining lightly and we get to wear our rain jackets! First destination is the indoor market. We also hope to find a coffee bar near by. With our Map App we find our coffee place tucked in behind the market building. I also find the elusive poppy seed pastry I’ve been looking for since our arrival. I remember from my previous trip to Budapest that poppy seed pastries were everywhere. Not so much anymore. I had to settle on a slice of poppy seed lemon loaf.

    Indoor market is fantastic. The basement floor has a fishmarket. We did not go down there. The main floor was mostly food, ranging from fruits and vegetables to various meats. Upstairs are souvenir items as well as clothing and glassware, and other Hungarian handicrafts.

    Our next destination was the neoclassical styled, St. Stephen’s Cathedral, a short walk away. We had seen it yesterday as part of the Pest tour, but did not get a chance to go inside. We chose to buy a ticket that gives you access to three areas inside. The main church with the altar, organ, and seating for worshippers; the treasury with a collection of historical, religious artifacts and the tower where you could ascend to a viewing platform near the top. This building is one of the tallest in the city and we really wanted to get a bird’s eye view. As you can see from the photos, it is a beautiful building inside and out, and provided a spectacular 360 degree view from the top.

    After a lunch break at a small cafe, we continued on touring the Pest side before deciding to head back to revisit the Palace on the Buda side. The plan was to take the funicular up the hill. It is a short ride on the oldest funicular in continental Europe. After a short wait in line we discover that for reasons unknown we would have to buy a return ticket when all we wanted was to catch a ride up. So, we declined and chose a new destination - Varosliget (City Park). It was a distance away and so we hopped on a tram.

    On arrival, we were awestruck by the Heroe’s Square situated at the entrance to the park. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site finished in 1996 as part of Hungary’s millennium celebrations. The park also has one of the best thermal baths in the city. However, we didn’t bring our bathing suits and we couldn’t see the actual bath. We did, however, go inside the entrance of the building housing the bath. Very impressive architecture. Walking through the park we came across a rock band in the process of producing a video in a picturesque setting alongside a pond and across from an old castle. It was silent though with the band only pretending to be playing their music.

    It was nearing dinner time and I was tired out after 20,000+ steps so we made our way to the nearest tram stop and went back to our apartment to get cleaned up and ready for dinner. We chose again to go the same restaurant, just steps away from our room. Tonight, I ordered a spicy chicken wrap with salad and fries. It was a huge meal even though I had ordered the small size of wrap. Laura had a garden salad and fries. It was enjoyable and came with a 40% discount again on both the food and the drinks!
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  • День 20

    Touring Budapest - Day 1

    20 сентября 2023 г., Венгрия ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    WOW! In a word, that describes what we saw today, touring Buda and Pest.

    Our day started with a trip to the bank to get some Florints. I didn’t realize that although Hungary is in the EU, it is not in the Eurozone! It still uses its own currency. We then caught a bus that brought us near to where we were to meet with our guide, Boulash, at 10:30 to begin a “free”walking tour of Pest. We found him to be very knowledgeable, with a good sense of humour and a voice loud enough to be heard. He took us to see a whole bunch of attractions and gave us insights that we would never have discovered on our own. The nearly two hour tour was worth every penny it cost us. Absolutely beautiful buildings, sculptures, fountains … views

    Following the tour we went looking for a place that serves lunch. We ended up choosing a vegan restaurant with a nice selection of light meals on their menu at reason prices. I had a pasta dish that was served with a spicy, cauliflower sauce. I quite like it. Laura had quesadillas, which she liked. It was then time to catch the metro to the starting point for our next tour.

    The next tour was with the same guide, but this time we would tour Buda, on the opposite side of the Danube. This is the hilly side where the Budapest Castle and the cities oldest building are located. More Spectacular buildings, sculptures , fountains … views! Following the tour we stopped at a cafe near the Budapest Palace for a cold drink and then walked around a bit more to take in the beautiful sights.

    I think what impressed me most on the tours was seeing the incredible amount of work that has gone into restoring and replacing these centuries old buildings. Other cities may have similar structures, but I’ve never seen so many that are in pristine condition with none of the usual black and dark grey coatings caused by years and years of exposure to air pollution. As well, the amount of work underway to restore or reconstruct entire buildings completely from the ground up is amazing!

    After returning to our apartment and getting cleaned up we went to the restaurant in our building for dinner. Laura ordered spaghetti with a tomato based meat sauce. It was huge and she could only eat 1/2 of it. I ordered Hungarian pizza. It was very tasty and had Hungarian sausage, onions, hot peppers and mushrooms on it. We got a 40% discount because we’re staying in the same building and I think the restaurant is owned by the same people that own our apartment. Dinner for two with drinks for about $20!
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  • День 19

    A Long Train Ride

    19 сентября 2023 г., Венгрия ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Went all the way from Split, Croatia to Budapest, Hungary today! However, had the train from Split to Zagreb been on time we would’ve had an hour and a half to stretch our legs and go out and get some food and drink in Zagreb for the second leg of the trip. However, the train arrived almost an hour late and we had no time, but to find our way to the next train. Luckily, we still had some bread left over from lunch that we could eat for dinner. And, Laura had a bit of water left in her bottle so we didn’t die of thirst.

    The train trip from Zagreb to Budapest didn’t go entirely smoothly either. Not too much after we had started, we learned that there was a problem with the track and that we would have to all get off the train and board buses, and then get back on another train to complete our journey to Budapest. So, as a result our arrival in Budapest was almost 30 minutes later than scheduled. We did get lucky though. Tom, the son of the owners of the apartment, in which we were staying, made contact and offered to pick us up from the train station. That was fantastic because we didn’t arrive in Budapest until 10:30 pm.
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  • День 18

    Day trip to Trogir

    18 сентября 2023 г., Хорватия ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Today’s adventure was quite a change from yesterday’s. The trip was only 1/2 hr each way instead of four, and it was far more relaxing because it wasn’t nearly as crowded with tourists. Trogir, like Dubrovnik, is a UNESCO World Heritage site with a walled, old town. Buildings date back as far as the 13th century and are still in use, albeit in many cases as restaurants, bars and shops. I really like that these centuries old buildings are not just being set aside as curiosities, but have been repurposed and are still in use today.

    Laura and I used the free map and guide books available at the tourist information centre to create a walking tour for ourselves. I was also able to eavesdrop on a few tours we intersected along the way. Unlike Dubrovnik, we were able to climb a tower and wander along the top of a fortress wall for only a small fee. The views were fantastic! We saw a number of very old structures that are in remarkably good condition considering their age. I know that many have been restored, but it is still a testament to the people of the time that designed and built them. I’m not so sure that the homes and buildings in today’s towns will even last a hundred years, let alone the thousands of years that these have stood.

    Once back in Split and after a short break in our apartment, we headed out for dinner. We’ve been mostly finding takeout and bringing it back to our apartment, but this being our last night in Croatia, we decided to go to a restaurant. We found a nice spot off the beaten path. After contemplating the menu for a few minutes and asking our waiter for some help identified the various food items, Laura ordered Gnocchi and Beef (served Croatian style). I decided to go for Fish with Gnocchi. Soon after ordering though I decided I should look up the fish. It was cuttlefish. I had no idea that it was more mollusk than fish (see photo). I immediately got up from my chair and flew up the stairs to intercept the waiter before the order was placed. I ate Chicken with Mozzarella in a tomato sauce instead.

    Following dinner we could hear live music coming from a plaza nearby. It was quite the spectacle with an orchestra and the “Ten Tenors” playing classic, Croatian songs. Everyone in the crowd seemed to know the words to all of the songs being played. I couldn’t understand a word, but I really enjoyed the music and soon I was bobbing my head and clapping my hands to the beat. From the spirit shown at this event, it seems that the Croatians are a proud people with a strong sense of patriotism. I had to wonder, Do we Canadians have a whole bunch of patriotic songs other than our national anthem and “This Land” that we could join in and sing to?
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  • День 17

    Day trip to Dubrovnic

    17 сентября 2023 г., Хорватия ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Today we are going to experience more Croatian history. We’ve got bus tickets to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Dubrovnik. It sustained considerable damage in the early 90’s when it was pummelled by artillery fire during a conflict with a neighbouring country, but work began soon after the conflict ended and the damage has been repaired.

    It was just a short walk to the bus station in Split, but it was a bit of a long wait for the bus because I got the time wrong and we got there kinda early. Onboard the double decker bus we were just settled into our front row seats when we had to move. Apparently, some seats are reserved. How you are to know which ones are is anyone’s guess.

    All the mixup was soon forgotten as we started leaving Split. Around almost every turn in the road was another beautiful sight. There are small picturesque villages, lots of beaches, orchards, vineyards and more. Some sections of the route are quite mountainous and the road gets fairly steep, narrow, as it winds it’s way high above valleys and the ocean. There are also several tunnels with a few that are very long, and an amazing cable stayed bridge across a stretch of ocean.

    About four hours later we arrived at the bus depot in Dubrovnik. A large cruise ship was moored nearby. That got me a bit concerned. The bus depot is about four Km from the Old City so we decided to catch a city bus to save some time and legwork. Once there, it became apparent that there are hoards of tourists off the cruise ship and from elsewhere here to see the historic, Walled City.

    We decided to make the most of it. So, map in hand, we made our way in. First priority was not the sites, but food. We just needed to find a bakery to buy some bread. The paper map was not helpful. Google Maps came to the rescue and located a grocer, but the lineup for the cashier was ridiculous so we soldiered on and luckily found a bakery.

    With the precious loaf tucked safely under my arm we made our way to a shady spot with a bench and enjoyed our lunch of bread, cheese and cold drink. Now, one last thing before we could get into serious touring: WC.

    We were able to locate one nearby using our paper map and then fight our way through the crowds to get to the lineup. Yes, even I had to stand in line! But, then came the next hurdle. It was one Euro to get in. No problem, I had a two Euro coin. But, the machine doesn’t give change and nobody else in line could either. Now I was going to have to find a shop or cafe that would be willing to change my coin so that Laura and I each had exact change.

    I started off, but didn’t get far. Someone in the lineup was waving and whistling frantically to get my attention. I went back and learned that the toilet entry machine would accept tap! So great. We both have credit cards on our phones. I wait my turn in line and just as I’m about to tap, the bathroom door flies open and the guy leaving holds the door so I can get in for free. Great!

    The room is tiny with one toilet behind a door and two urinals along a wall, positioned uncomfortably close to each other. The room is so small that when I try to leave, the guy using the urinal next to the door has to press himself into the wall just so that the door can open. Not sure why it has to swing inward?

    When I get back out to the alleyway with the lineup, I see Laura frantically waving for help. Her card didn’t work and she hadn’t been able to get in to the women’s side. You can’t tap your credit card if you don’t have cell service. So, now I had to go to the machine guarding the women’s side and use my phone so she could get in and use the toilet. All the while there is a lady looking after the washrooms who couldn’t give change or even open the door to let someone in that hasn’t got the stupid one Euro coin required to use a toilet!

    Finally, we were ready to tour. Our map had the key points of interest marked. With Google I was able to give some background information on the things we were seeing. I guide would have been helpful, but it was all so crowded and hectic that I’m not sure we would have learned much more. We walked up and down the main streets and many of the narrow alleyways. The more stairs we climbed the thinner the crowds became. We saw a lot of interesting things but after a couple of hours we’d had enough. It was a bit of a circus with the throngs of tourists.

    We chose not to pay the roughly $100 it would cost to access the tops of the walls and museums. We were able to climb to some great vantage points outside the Walled City and didn’t feel the need to pay that much to walk the walls. It might have been nice to go to a museum, but they too would likely have been overrun with tourists.
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  • День 16

    Exploring Split

    16 сентября 2023 г., Хорватия ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Cappuccino and a coffee made by Laura on our DeLongi coffee maker. Eggs and toast for breakfast, cooked to our liking, in our kitchen. So started the day. Then it was off on foot to see more of Split. Our plan was to spend the morning exploring the UNESCO World Heritage site of Diocletian’s Palace. When we arrived we realized that we had left a map of the extensive site in our room. As well, I had left my sunglasses there and was finding the glare off the white, limestone block streets hard on the eyes. So, we walked backed to our apartment.

    Once there, we decided to change things up and do now what we had planned for the afternoon and leave Diocletian for the afternoon. Our room is in the historic Veli Varos part of town. It has all kinds of irregularly shaped, narrow streets and alleyways and is located on the slopes of Marjan Hill. Our planned route would take us up the hill through a park where we would get nice views of Split and the surrounding ocean. Taking our time, we slowly ascended to the top. This included a section with 178 steps! The effort was worthwhile as there were several viewpoints enroute, and it is a park full of beautiful trees filled with the chirping sound of cicadas.

    From the top of the hill we could see beaches on the shoreline far below. Our next goal was to find our way down to the beach where we would have a cold drink and a bite to eat. It was enjoyable making our way down and we came across a few interesting features, such as a small, very old stone church built into the side of a rock bluff. Getting to the beach took us on a bit of longer walk than expected, however, because there was no public access until quite a distance along the shoreline. Eventually though we got there, ordered cold drinks and a side of fries and enjoyed the ocean view.

    Checking my map app, it was almost 5 k back to town. We decided to bus it back because we still wanted to see Diocletian’s Palace and it was now almost 2 o’clock. It was a short walk to the bus stop and then a short wait for the bus, but for $3 it was well worth it. After a quick break in our room, it was off to the Palace, this time with our map in hand.

    This tourist attraction is like no other historic archeological site I’ve ever seen. Not only does it cover a very large area, but the centuries old buildings inside the walls of the place are still in active use. There are shops, bars, restaurants, apartments and all kinds of businesses occupying the numerous buildings that line the narrow alleyways and promenades. You feel transported back in time and get a feel for what life might have been like. It’s not a typical ancient ruin where you have columns, walls and statues but no intact buildings or inhabitants still living there.
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  • День 15

    Zagreb to Split

    15 сентября 2023 г., Хорватия ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We said an early morning goodbye to Zagreb and boarded the 7:03 train to Split. We had breakfasts and lunches made and we picked up coffees at the train station. The trip was enjoyable with lots of nice scenery to keep us interested on the six hour journey. We had a table with our seats so we could play some cards as well as eat our meals in comfort.

    It was only a short, 15 min walk from the train station in Split to our apartment. Zoran, the owner, met us nearby and proudly showed us to his newly renovated property. Absolutely beautiful (see photos)! And, located right in the heart of the action. After a little rest, we packed up all our dirty clothes and took them to a laundry just down the street to get cleaned. We paid a bit extra to have it all done for us, including washing, drying and folding! We’ll be picking it up at 7:30 tonight.

    We were keen to do some walking after the long train ride so after dropping off our clothes and picking up some groceries we started touring Split. We decided to follow the promenade along the coast and see what the beach area looked like. There were a few sandy sections but mostly it was just a sea wall where you could put down your towel and access the water if you wanted to go for a swim.

    We walked a few kilometres before heading back along a slightly different direction to find a takeout dinner to bring to our apartment. We look forward to seeing more of this historical coastal town tomorrow.
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  • День 14

    Exploring Zagreb

    14 сентября 2023 г., Хорватия ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today was a day to wander about and take in some of the many historical sights in Zagreb. But first, we wanted to experience one of the many bakeries near our room, so we stopped to enjoy a coffee and pastry for breakfast. It was located right across from well known, Ban Jelacic Square.

    Afterwards, we headed to the Upper Town area. On the way we passed through the Dolac open air fruit and veggie market. We walked along historic Tkalciceva Street, which is one of the oldest streets in the area. And then we went to the City of Zagreb museum.

    We spent a couple of hours there looking at artifacts dating back several centuries in the city’s long history. The museum is well organized and takes you on a journey through time from distant past to present.

    From the museum we we walked on to view several more landmarks including Zagreb Cathedral and St. Marc’s Church. Unfortunately, those two attractions are both under renovation right now. So we could only view them from the distance and unfortunately, some sections were also obscured by scaffolding.

    Following a short rest break at our apartment, we walked back to the Upper Town area to view The Stone Gate and follow some streets we missed earlier. We then picked up meals to go and headed back to our room to eat, relax and get ready for the next leg of our trip. We are getting up early to catch a train to Split.
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