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Aia

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    • Day 3

      After 49km of walking...

      May 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      After 2 days and 49 kilometres on our route this is what I'm feeling:
      - feet: nothing, perfect condition, thank God.
      - legs: only a little bit of soreness at the joints of my hip, but nothing to worry about.
      - shoulders: this is where it hurts more, 8-9 kilograms (that's including water) is not something I'm used to carry up and down the mountains over long periods of time. It's all muscular so hopefully it will go away soon.
      - but the worst is completely unrelated to the walking. I left Holland with a sore throat and by now it's worse and makes talking difficult. Plus I'm by now all congested, coughing and the whole works..
      So in other words you never know what the Camino brings.
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    • Day 4

      Amalfi coast?

      May 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Every step is spectacular. It's a blessing that we have the opportunity to walk here.
      But it also comes with its challenges.. what do you do when every hostel, boarding house or hotel is full? You just continue to the next place in the hope you are lucky there.Read more

    • Day 3

      Steak Gönnung

      September 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Wir haben die Nordküste erreicht🥳
      Nachdem uns ein Local in einem Surfshop ein Restaurant für feinstes Steak empfohlen hat, konnten wir dem nicht wiederstehen🤤

      Und jo es wor echt wach wia butta

      Morgen werden wir das erste mal surfen gehen - STOKED👊🏻
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    • Day 4

      Pasaia - Getaria

      October 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Oh Herr, Welch eine Nacht. Ich habe alle Schattenseiten einer herbergsübernachtung in dieser einen Nacht erneut kennengelernt. Also laut und warm und kaum geschlafen. Zudem lag ich noch da und musste aufs Klo, aber aus dem Bett klettern und in den Keller gehen, dann wieder hoch und wieder ganz leise ins Bett klettern, hätte mich viel mehr wach gemacht als einfach nur so darzuliegen und die Umstände zu ertragen.

      Um 6:30 Uhr wurde dann mit Musik geweckt. Ich war schon vorher wach und als das Licht dann anging, bin ich direkt hinaus und hinunter. Pipi, gewaschene Klamotten anziehen und mit Sack und pack raus vor die Tür! Luft 🙌🏼
      Haben dort dann auch gefrühstückt und sind runter zur Fähre welche uns über das Hafenbecken auf die andere Seite fuhr.

      Es war noch reichlich dunkel aber sobald wir aus der beleuchteten Stadt raus waren, dämmerte es genug um die Treppen auf den ersten Berg zu steigen. Es war dann schon noch ein Stückchen bis San Sebastián. Dort gabs Kaffee und Croissant und Neapolitaner. Ein Stangen Brot noch zur Mitnahme und durch die Bucht hin zum nächsten Berg.

      Ich fand die Strecke eigentlich sehr unspektakuläre. Es gab noch zwei donativo Stände wie wir einmal Tee und einmal Kaffee hatten. Nächste Stadt war Orio, wo wir einen großen Bogen gehen mussten um über den Fluss zu kommen und dann wieder auf den Weg. Die Autobahn ging gerade drüber, aber als Auto darf man sich glaube ich noch nicht identifizieren.

      In Orio gabs ein Oreo Eis für die Mama und für mich ein Schinkenbrot und ein alkoholfreies Bier. Es ging weiter bis Zarautz wo wir dann beim pakistanischen Dönermann waren. War ok und sättigend. Danach sind wir an der Küstenstraße entlang bis in unseren Zielort Getaria. Da ich schlecht recherchiert hatte, waren wir noch überrascht dass die Herberge 20€ p.P. kostet. Die Hauswirtin war so schlecht drauf dass umsonst schon zu viel gewesen wäre 🤌🏼
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    • Day 4

      Zarautz e La Fortuna Nella Sfortuna

      May 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      "Ma il mare è come l'anima.
      Non fa silenzio mai. Nemmeno quando tutto tace"
      (Angelo De Pascalis)

      Oggi lasciamo San Sebastian abbastanza tardi, a causa di Alessandro che non è certo mattiniero. La sua teoria sugli orari è abbastanza particolare e ne condivido una buona parte.
      'Che senso ha svegliarsi alle 5 di mattina e arrivare a destinazione prima che gli albergue siano aperti, poi aprono e crolli appena tocchi il letto'; questo è il suo modo di pensare.
      Credo che se tu hai una prenotazione questo ragionamento abbia un senso ma se la tua scelta vira su un municipale o se preferisci non programmare niente (come farei io) tutto il castello creato va a cadere. In questa parte di cammino gli albergue sono veramente pochi, alcuni sono chiusi, altri limitati e altri ancora molto costosi. Per chi volesse fare business sarebbe un ottima idea aprire un bel albergue in questa parte del cammino del nord.
      Nella notte la nostra prenotazione è stata cancellata perché l'hospitalero spagnolo non abituato alla divisione anglofona delle ore in a.m e p.m pensava che il nostro orario di arrivo fossero le 3 di notte, invece delle 15 del pomeriggio, compromettendo in questo modo il nostro riposo.
      Fortunatamente il buon Gotzon, questo è il suo nome, ha fatto di tutto per recuperare e, anche se io adesso sto scrivendo da un materasso buttato a terra con il sacco a pelo come lenzuolo, la giornata è andata benissimo e l'ospitalità è stata ottima.
      Spesso da un imprevisto nasce qualcosa di inaspettatamente positivo.
      Ma andiamo con ordine.
      Lasciamo Donostia tardi e il primo tratto di cammino è la prima di alcune salite abbastanza ripide che mi sfiancano non poco, ma niente di paragonabile a ieri.
      E si sa che quando c'è una salita prima o poi ci sarà anche una discesa, ulteriori sollecitazioni per le nostre ginocchia.
      Oggi dobbiamo fare solo una ventina di km, quindi ci stiamo godendo il nostro tempo insieme parlando di tutto e di più.
      Io spesso mi limito ad ascoltare o a esprimere la mia opinione in merito agli argomenti e alle avventure degli altri, non avendone di mie da raccontare. La loro esperienza di vita mi colpisce sempre più, in particolare quella di Matthew, così giovane e già così esperto.
      Dopo aver passato qualche pascolo, piccole piantagioni di vigne, boschi abbastanza fitti e sentieri in discesa veramente rocciosi, irregolari e pericolosi, arriviamo ad un piccolo donativo 'ambulante' dove una comunità che vive in maniera non tradizionale ci offre da bere un mate (bevanda argentina) anch'esso alternativo perché servito freddo e miscelato con succo di mango.
      Sembrava gente semplice e di buon cuore, quel tipo di persone che hanno capito che si vive benissimo e felicemente anche con molto poco.
      Gandhi diceva 'quando si ha poco non si hanno più paure'; chissà se è questo il caso.
      Per questo la mia donazione per le nostre bevande è stata abbastanza cospicua, ho voluto premiare la semplicità.
      Continuiamo la nostra marcia e successivamente arriviamo ad Orio; ammetto che molto del tragitto di oggi non lo ricordo bene. É un po' come la Navarra del cammino francese; devi guardare sempre a terra per schivare i sassi e non hai modo per concentrarti al meglio sul panorama, a meno che tu non voglia prendere un autobus per Santiago seduta stante con una caviglia o un ginocchio gonfio. Quindi sassi più conversazione in altre lingue e l'attenzione al background va a farsi fottere.
      Ad Orio ci fermiamo per una breve pausa per mangiare qualche pintxos ( il mio era una vera e propria Tortiglia) e in seguito ripartiamo oltrepassando un ponte e costeggiando il bel canale che ci accompagna alla nostra destra. Parliamo un po' di tutto e specialmente del difficoltà che si incontrano in Italia, dove oggi non funziona nulla e sarebbe meglio per i giovani emigrare.
      Prima di arrivare a Zarautz ci fermiamo nella collina antistante, dove attraverso un piccolo belvedere, scorgiamo l'inizio della città con la sua bellissima spiaggia e un immenso campo da golf adiacente ad essa. Beh, deve essere davvero fortunato chi può permettersi di giocare in questo campo in riva all'oceano.
      Il rumore del mare è ovunque, spinto fin lassù dal forte vento che agita le onde; è un boato rilassante e continuo ma, allo stesso tempo, forte e deciso che permea l'aria intorno a noi.
      È un bel momento di contemplazione interrotto da Mario e Valentina che scendono dalla strada che abbiamo appena percorso. Si scambiano il numero con quel marpione di Alessandro, che ne sa una più del diavolo in quanto metodi tattici di approccio, e dopo essere entrati in città insieme a noi continuano nel loro cammino, dormiranno qualche km più avanti.
      Arrivati così a Zarautz conosciamo l'hospitalero Gotzon che ci porta, per riparare al disguido iniziale, a quella che credo sia casa sua dove affitta altre camere oltre quelle dell'ostello.
      20€ è il prezzo pagato per oggi e non mi lamento perché poteva andare molto peggio.
      Successivamente mentre faccio la doccia, i miei compagni fanno la spesa e in serata mangiamo un'ottima pasta all'amatriciana cucinata dal nostro Masterchef Alessandro (d'altronde è di Roma, se non la sa fare lui , chi altro ?)
      Tutto questo però dopo aver passato un oretta vicino alla bellissima spiaggia, piena di gente e di surfisti, bevendo io un buon caffè ed i miei compagni un ottima cerveza per rinfrescarsi. Qui racconto un po' di Tina ad Ale, e mi verrebbe da ridere perché lui continua a chiamarla romanescamente 'profumiera', anche se magari questa è una visione limitata delle situazione. Per Matthew la soluzione è sempre Tinder e non riesco a smettere di ridere anche per questo. Il ragazzo ha bisogno di qualche birra per sciogliersi.
      Dopo aver lavato i piatti, il mio unico contributo per la cena🤭 io e Matthew abbiamo preso posto per vedere la finale di Champions League tra Real Madrid e Liverpool, insieme a Gotzon e altri due ragazzi, Hamid dal Cile e Gabriel dall'Argentina che stanno girando il mondo e sono qui ad aiutare il propietario di casa nel lavoro in cambio di vitto e alloggio gratuito.
      Se mi avessero detto che, per una strana concatenazione di eventi, mi sarei ritrovato in una casa spagnola in cui non avevo mai messo piede con persone tutte di nazionalità diversa che non avevo mai visto prima a vedere la finale di Champions non ci avrei mai creduto.
      Da una piccola sfortuna, abbiamo vissuto una giornata memorabile nella sua semplicità che spero di ricordare per un bel po' di tempo.
      Sarà la magia del cammino che aiuta noi pellegrini.
      In ogni caso sono l'una di notte e ancora devo dormire; esagero nella scrittura. Domani sarà una lunga giornata.

      PS: ha vinto il Real Madrid, e Gotzon non mi sembra particolarmente contento.
      Anche lui, d'altronde, è Basco.
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    • Day 33

      Höhlenmenschen

      September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Heute hieß es wieder Tschüss Wüste und Hallo Meer. Aber vorher hab wir uns noch die Cuevas de Arguedas angeschaut, da wir ja quasi schon fast dort übernachtet haben.

      Die Cuevas de Arguedas, das sind Höhlen, die Ende des 19. Jahrhunderts in den Felsen gegraben wurden. Diese Höhlen beherbergten einst 52 Familien und hatten zum Schluss sogar teilweise Strom. 1960 wurden die Höhlen aufgegeben, da in Arguedas Sozialwohnungen gebaut wurden.

      Nachdem wir die Höhlen besichtigt hatten, ging es für uns wieder zurück an die Küste. Wir fuhren bei 34 Grad los und kamen bei knappen 19 Grad an. Brrr
      Wir verbrachten eine ruhige Nacht auf einem Stellplatz in Orio.
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    • Day 2

      San Sebastian to Zarautz, Spain

      September 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 68 °F

      Well the weather app nailed it. We had breakfast at the Hostal and put our ponchos and gaiters on and hit the road at about 8:30. Only 21km today. We can handle anything for 5ish hours right? We are strong women, we have the kit to get us through. What’s a little rain? It’s just water.
      We hiked up, up, and up out of San Sebastián in the pouring rain, like really pouring. Thunder, lightning, and water rushing down the trail like a creek. After a couple hours we are completely soaked. It was coming down so hard we ducked under someone’s house overhang and thought we’d wait for it to lighten up. No such luck. Soaked shoes and socks are a great recipe for blisters. The longer I stood there the harder it was coming down. I looked at the girls and said ‘I’m out’. I didn’t want to slip on the rocks/mud and mess my knee up again. From that point on it was 16km with no towns. No way to get help if hurt. I felt like a loser for a minute, but then felt like I was making a smart call. We decided to knock on the door of the house we were huddled under to call a taxi. Holly has the best Spanish, so she went and knocked on the door. No answer. Nathalie said she was going to keep going, even though the thunder and crackling lightning was really intimidating her. Holly said she was with me. No need to get hurt and stranded for this. We went to find the bus stop we passed. Didn’t know the schedule or anything. Just as we were walking away, a man came out on the balcony. Elated, we asked if he could call us a cab. He agreed but came back out a few minutes later saying no one was answering, taxis are busy in the rain. He said he’d drive us to the bus stop. He opened his trunk, we threw our packs in and hopped in. I got good vibes from him. Nice man, middle aged, and so helpful. He said this rain was way too much for pilgrims and not safe. He ended up driving us all the way to Zarautz to our hostel. Bless him. I tried to give him €50 and I got the impression he was offended as he adamantly refused. Holly, on her way out of his car, left €10 in the middle console, something, but not so much to offend him. He SAVED us. So kind. It’s Saturday, raining, and I think that’s the only reason he was home. We get to the hostal and of course it’s too early to check in so we changed into dry clothes, put our sandals on and went next door for coffee. It’s a lovely place, they even had almond milk for Holly to have a hot chocolate. We felt so blessed. God is good.
      Then I broke down. I hate that our first official day went like this. The Camino presents challenges and we work through them, we don’t get a ride to the next town. I was disappointed in myself. Also, I had a really vivid dream of my Dad, who passed away last year, it was so real. He was sitting on my couch, he cried, shook his head, and said “I’m sorry, Tammy.” He looked like I’ve never seen him. My dad doesn’t cry. My dad was an unapologetic man who justified his actions/decisions, or just plain didn’t acknowledge his shortcomings. What was this dream all about? I don’t need an apology, I don’t need tears from him. But it’s messing my emotions up today especially with the rain. Shit day. We all have them. I didn’t expect this to happen so soon. My deep emotions usually start surfacing after a couple weeks on the trail, I was totally caught off guard and have been crying off and on for hours. It’ll pass, and Holly is so nice. As I was sniffling and crying like a baby, I muttered a “sorry” to her that she was witnessing my weak moment, she said “no more sorry’s for tears, they are going to come for me too”. What a doll, I’m with the right person here. Again, blessed.

      The weather looks much much better going forward the next 10 days from what I can tell, so we will get after it tomorrow morning.

      Ultreia.
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    • Day 10

      Eigentlich...

      November 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

      ...hatten wir beschlossen, heute weiterzuziehen und die Sonne ☀️ zu suchen👍
      Aber wieder hat der Wettergott eine Planänderung beschlossen. 😂
      Heftige Stürme in Orkanstärke wackelte die ganze Nacht heftig am Womo und auch am Morgen ging es so weiter. Und dann noch höher durch die Berge? Nö!
      Außerdem ist es am Sonntag eh entspannter zu fahren.🚐
      Also beschäftigten wir uns mit Aufräum-und Reparaturarbeiten im Inneren, als alles fertig war, wir satt waren, kam wieder mal die 🌞 als wollte sie sagen 'fein gemacht, nun dürft Ihr ein bisschen spazieren gehen' 👍 Was wir natürlich auch sofort brav taten 😉
      In der Sonne gab es noch einen Vino 🍷 bevor es wieder heim ging.
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    • Day 3

      2. Etappe: San Sebastian - Zarautz

      May 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Heute morgen pünktlich um 6:30 Uhr gestartet. Ich hatte mit Regen gerechnet, aber es war trocken und warm; super. Die Nacht war auch gut. Habe gut geschlafen und fühlte mich gut erholt. Nach knapp 1 Std quer durch die Stadt war ich endlich wieder am Strand und somit auf dem Camino. Es ging wieder bergauf und bergab und zum Glück wirklich gut trotz der Blasen. Schöne Eindrücke unterwegs und immer wieder bekannte Gesichter vom ersten Tag getroffen. Die private Verpflegungsstation nach 16 km kam wie gerufen, denn ich hatte noch nichts gegessen.
      Auch medizinisch sorgt der Camino für seine Pilger. Kurz vor Zarautz kamen plötzlich David und Jannes um die Ecke. Welch eine Überraschung für alle, denn ich vermutete sie ca. 1,5 Std voraus. Sie sind aber später los gekommen als gewollt und waren daher hinter mir.
      Heute übernachte ich in einem Einzelzimmer für 35,-. Herrlich.
      Morgen wieder in einer Pilgerherberge.
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    • Day 3

      Zarautz to Deba, Spain

      September 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

      What a fantastic start to this Camino. Not an easy one, wasn’t expecting anything easy on this pilgrimage, but I did expect beauty, and wow did I get a good dose of pretty today! My Camino legs are back!! I don’t know how accurate my Apple Watch is but is says over 17 miles. A lot of up, up, up, and then dowwwn. Trail was muddy from yesterdays downpour so the trail was quite sketchy most of the way. Even walked through a ‘creek’ up hill that wasn’t supposed to be a creek. I was taking baby steps. Can’t afford to slip or slide, because I’m like 50+. It hurts too much now! I was ahead of the girls about a quarter of the day because my stride is different and also because I’m not here to bullshit for 8 hours a day. I can’t. I love the camaraderie, but in doses. We start off in the morning, ooo and aww at all the beautiful sites and then after 5Km we break for coffee. After that my Camino legs said let’s gooo!! So I did and walked about half the day alone. It was so wonderful to have some alone time. Love my companions, but the Camino isn’t about constantly being surrounded by your comfort zone and talking 8 hours a day, it’s about being alone with yourself and letting your thoughts talk to you. Honestly I didn’t have a lot of personal things come up today because the terrain was either very steep going up or very steep going down, slippery and muddy, I was just paying attention to being safe and getting to Deba in one piece. I waited for the girls to catch up at a coffee shop about 5Km before our destination and we proceeded to walk straight down into Deba in search of the albergue. The albergue was first come, first served and they always fill up. If full, you have to walk on to the next town. We arrived in Deba about 4 and are staying in a public albergue, which is actually an old train station. It has 50 or 60 beds. Everyone is so friendly and not ‘me firsters’, as my uncle Brian used to say, so laundry and showers got done right away when we arrived. We then went to the center of this
      cute village and had some pinxtos and wine by the beach in between the washer and dryer cycles. Came back folded clothes and the volunteer hospitarlio has a gift for making bracelets. He was showing Holly and I them and offered to give us one. They are so beautiful I took one for my ankle and one for my wrist and donated to the albergue for the second one. Haven’t worn an ankle bracelet in years. In the early days Sterling used to always buy them for me, but because of skiing I ended up breaking them or not wearing them because they were dainty and I’d break them in no time. These are tough, I can hike in this one. I love the bracelet too, it sits right next to the one Jenna, my granddaughter made for my birthday .
      They serve dinner at 8 here and we were so ready for dinner by then we had some Padron peppers (omg so good) and an ensalda mixta. Typically the ensalada mixta has tomatoes, lettuce, white asparagus, tuna and red onion. No creamy dressings here, just oil and vinegar. It’s amazingly refreshing. Nathalie had calamari and Holly had lomo (ham) and French fries (chips). It was all good for us who burned about 1500 + calories. I’m probably still calorie deficit after the hike today.
      We went to a grocery store and bought food for tomorrows lunch because there are no towns to buy lunch or coffees on the way tomorrow. It’ll be a picnic day on top of mountain hopefully.
      God I love it here. We met some Canadian (Toronto) ladies 70+ who have done multiple caminos and they were so nice to talk to. Another reason I love it here, as demonstrated, Nathalie, Luba, Luca, John, Jeremy, Tony, Andres, Lisa, Jennifer, Rui, are all still in my life. We have a special bond for life. If you share a Camino with someone, you share a piece of yourself and they share a piece of themselves, and you become very close because of this special place that has a magical, safe aura that allows you to share freely. What a refreshing outlet. What a healthy outlet. Sometimes people drink together to get that bond, here it is in between breathless steps up a mountain or having a picnic on the top or over dinner. We trust each other. And what’s said on the Camino stays on the Camino. My mom always told me if you tell someone a secret, they will tell at least one person. Then that person will tell one person, and so on. There goes your secret. Not here. So it’s cleansing and pure honesty without skating around someone’s insecurities, but offering understanding and grace so they feel safe. I’ve heard things mothers/fathers have never heard about from their own children, like big stuff. What an honor to be trusted like that. I’m glad they, and I, can feel a freedom from burdens.
      While it was a really challenging day, it was gorgeous. It was amazing, and I’m getting my groove back. I can only share 10 photos, and it’s going to be hard to pick only 10. But here are the moments that made me smile.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Aia, أيا, Aya, ایا, 아이아, Айя, Ая, 艾阿

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