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Porto do Son

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    • Day 26

      Wartezeit in A Pobra do Caramiñal

      December 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      Die gestrige Nacht wurde ziemlich abrupt durch ein heftiges Gewitter unterbrochen...heftige Böen, Starkregen und aufgewühltes Meer...der Hennes wurde ordentlich durchgeschüttelt.

      Nach einem Kaffee und kurzem Frühstück ging es bei diesem Wetterchaos Richtung Werkstatt...die Standheizung wollte repariert werden.

      Uns empfing ein nettes Team und wir kamen nach ausgiebigem translatern überein, dass ein erforderliches Ersatzteil bestellt wird und morgen sollte der Einbau erfolgen...gegen eine nicht unerhebliche Geldsumme, aber wir wollen nicht frieren und somit " zahlen und fröhlich sein "

      Die Stellplatzsuche für die heutige Nacht gestaltete sich etwas schwierig. Die Häfen klein oder voll industralisiert. Aber nach einigen unerfolgreichen Anfahrten fanden wir doch einen schönen Platz in oben genanntem Städtchen...
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    • Day 40

      Day 37 - Good day for a roadtrip

      October 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      “The three great elemental sounds of nature are the sound of rain, the sound of wind in a wood and the sound of the ocean outside on a beach.” – Henry Beston

      Day 37 - Santiago to Finesterre - by bus

      I awoke late as I had no concrete plans for the day. I had loosely decided to go to Finesterre for at least a day, today. When I saw all the rain in the forecast, I decided what the heck. So, I booked a bus to get out of Dodge. Well, out of Santiago at least.

      As the bus wasn’t until after 3pm, I took my time getting ready. Found a cafe bar for a lovely bacon and egg late breakfast and chilled there for a while.

      At noon, I had an appointment for my Camino tattoo at Sargado Corazon. All over and done with before 1pm! It is not exactly what I was hoping for ( I think I wanted it a bit more spread out) but I didn’t speak up, so here we have it. I had the artist design it based around the traditional scallop shell as well as the modern yellow arrows I followed for the duration of my walk.

      The Scallop Shell today is used as a symbol of direction along the Camino, pointing pilgrims towards Santiago. It is also featured in many buildings along the routes, such as churches, in-laid to pavers in the streets, on walls etc. Pilgrims also wear this symbol themselves which further enhances the camaraderie along this great walking trail.

      While today the Scallop Shell is deemed to be purely symbolic and representative, it did have its practical uses in eons gone by. Due to its shape, the shell was used to scoop food and water as this was easily carried along the trail. Food kitchens along the route would also use a Scallop Shell as a measure of one portion. The shape of the scallop shell is also said to represent the different routes of the Camino, all converging in one point: Santiago de Compostela.

      More than just a souvenir, in a way, the Camino shell can be considered the original ‘pilgrim certificate’ even before the Compostela was issued to medieval pilgrims. Unlike modern pilgrims, traditionally Camino pilgrims would have to walk over to Santiago and back. The scallop shell, a common mollusc along the shores of Galicia, was used by returning pilgrims as a badge of honour and proof of having visited the city of Saint James. It was also common for Medieval pilgrims across Europe to be buried with their scallop shell, showing they had completed the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Guess I will be buried with my shell too :-)

      As soon as I was done at the studio, I headed over to the the bus station to hang out until my bus came at 3:20pm. I had read that the views were best in the left side of the bus and I wasn’t disappointed. Most of these buses take the slow, coastal route. Although only an hour + drive in a car, the coastal route means this is a 3hr bus ride to Finisterre. Despite the rain, the views were beautiful and it didn’t feel like a 3hr bus ride.

      I am staying just outside of town but have a private room, use of a full kitchen, and a shared bathroom with real towels! It’s only a 10 min walk to the main town and I can’t wait to explore tomorrow. I also plan on walking to the cape to see the lighthouse.

      Met up with Annette again who came here yesterday, and we went for dinner. Took us a while to find a place we agreed on that wasn’t over the top touristy expensive, but we found it! A Lareira was just what we were looking for. Seafood with decent prices and good portions. We shared a bottle of wine and got two free shots each - for a total of 25€ each, including a tip. Annette had clams in sauce and I did the grilled squid - fabulous! We both left a bit tipsy as I had over a km to walk back to my room - and a curfew of 10pm. Felt like a freaking teenager again. And was totally giggling when I made it with 1 minute to spare 😁.

      I have decided to stay an extra night here, and am looking forward to the walk tomorrow to the cape and lighthouse. Will likely time it so I can say a final goodbye to Annette as she starts on the rest of her journey. It’s been great hanging with her for the last week or so.

      Fingers crossed that the weather cooperates tomorrow! I would prefer not to have to walk I the rain….but whatever.
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    • Day 35

      Final instalment!

      June 11 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Thanks for all your lovely comments 🥰
      I thought I would just add the photos from our day trip to the coast, which was relaxing and so nice to be driven … rather than walking! Although I’m so generally tired I did nod off on the coach!
      We stopped first at a fishing village Muros en route, and then at an impressive waterfall into the sea, this is because the sea has ingressed known as rias, and there are many of them along this coastline. Then we went to the ‘end of the world’ or Finisterre cape where there is a lighthouse and the 0 Km way marker as it is believed that this is where St James was last seen alive, although all other way markers count down to Santiago Cathedral.
      The scenery is stunning and the sky was threatening, apparently there was a visible cold front coming as seen by the line in the sky (David’s input!). We then had lovely seafood paella in Finisterre village. And the coach came back stopping at Muxia, made famous by ‘The Way’ film ( Martin Sheen scattered his son’s ashes) and an impressive semi circular waterfall and very old bridge.
      Then David and I got a bus this morning from Santiago to Porto, and lost an hour as Portugal is on UK time! While Fiona flew back to the UK.
      We’ve had a relaxing afternoon exploring very hilly Porto and took a boat tour of the six bridges here on the river Douro, although I managed to nod off again, as I did on the bus this morning!! I have quite a sleep debt to catch up on!! My feet are happier now and I’m looking forward to seeing friends in Lisbon and also going home next week!!
      So thanks again everyone for your fabulous kind support, lots of love to you all 😘😘😘😘😘😘😘😘
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    • Day 59

      Tag 59: A Coruña und Cap Fisterra

      September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Tag 59:

      Nach dem schönen Abend in A Coruña haben wir mitten in der Innenstadt übernachtet. Keine Matten in den vorderen Scheiben und die Fenster nur „halboffen“, damit wir möglichst wenig auffallen. Dafür war die Nacht erstaunlich gut und gegen 9 Uhr machen wir uns auf den Weg Richtung Leuchtturm von A Coruña ✨😊

      Frühstück haben wir dabei. Das Wetter ist wunderschön und es gibt so einiges zu entdecken. Wir laufen etwa 4km an der Küste entlang, beobachten die Wellen und Felsformationen und bestaunen die Schönheit der Landschaft. A Coruña dabei immer im Hintergrund 🙃

      Gegen 12 Uhr geht es weiter zu einem Strand, den Leif herausgesucht hat. Kaum Menschen, endlose Weite und tolles Wetter. Wir springen natürlich direkt in die Wellen 🌊 Heute ging es von den Kraftmassen im Wasser auch deutlich besser.

      Unser nächster Stop: Das Cap Fisterra
      Die Pilger und Pilgerinnen kennen diesen Ort garantiert, denn hier endet der Jakobsweg, beginnend in Santiago.
      Uns haben auf dieser Reise oftmals Pilgerwege gekreuzt und ich bin doch angefixt, mal einen Camino zu laufen 🫣🙃 Die Massen waren aber tatsächlich mit Autos oder Bussen am Cap.

      Wir suchen uns nun einen Stellplatz.
      Erster Versuch: Verbotsschilder

      Zweiter Versuch: Alle ausgewiesenen Plätze voll, aber am Rand platz. Wir stellen uns dazu. Später liest Leif nochmal Kommentare zu diesem Platz. Hinweise: Wer falsch steht bzw. nicht in den markierten Plätzen, bekommt direkt ein Bußgeld. Also schnell wieder weg…

      3. Versuch: Platz ok aber auf 2h begrenzt 😒

      4. Versuch: Angekommen!!!! 🥳
      Und auf einem Platz mit einem der schönsten Ausblicke bis jetzt und einem grandiosen Sonnenuntergang zum Abschluss des Tages. Zudem ist der Betreiber unfassbar freundlich und hilfsbereit gewesen. Für 12€ ist der Platz ein totaler Gewinn. 🤩

      Wir machen uns noch Abendessen und Spielen, bis es dann ins Bett geht 😌
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    • Day 14

      Day 14 - 28th Wedding Anniversary

      June 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      We were awoken around 9am by Veronica knocking on our tent to say goodbye. We managed to get out of bed to say goodbye properly before they hit the road back to Santander and home.

      With us both feeling slightly special, Jackie gave me an anniversary card & made me a bacon baguette for breakfast. I was feeling now also guilty because I had forgotten or been too busy to buy a card, so I made amends by doing the washing up again, whilst Jackie washed more clothes.

      We finally hit the beach at midday, sat in our usual spot & stayed there until 7pm. The beach was busy with locals as it was the weekend & another pod of dolphins swam past, but slightly too far away to photograph.

      As it was our anniversary, Jackie decided she wasn’t going to cook, but we would eat in the campsite restaurant. We chose the 3 course meal for €13.50 each & it was absolutely beautiful & such great value. For starters, Jackie had a plate of mussels with a garlic & lime dressing, whilst I had the cream of pumpkin soup. For mains, we both chose the ‘pork surprise’ while turned out to be a pork loin with an accompanying sweet chutney & chips. For dessert, I had the cherry cheesecake, while Jackie chose what she thought was a crème brûlée, but turned out to be a double baked cheesecake. Jackie doesn’t eat cheesecake, so to save her embarrassment, which is what you do on your 28th wedding anniversary, I ate it for her!!!!

      We finished the evening with a white wine nightcap & had an early night.

      Song of the Day : Anniversary by Duran Duran.
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    • Day 14

      Muros ❤️

      May 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Der Regen in O Grove treibt uns ca 100 km weiter nach Muros , ein hübsches,umtriebiges Küstenstädtchen .

      Wie immer gemütlich über Landstrassen auf denen uns kein einziges Wohnmobil begegnet . Die wunderschöne Küstenstraße führt uns durch Noia , einem mittelalterlichen Städtchen und einem beliebten Durchgangspunkt für Jacobspilger 🥰

      Was mich immer wieder begeistert, ist die üppige grüne Vegetation ! Ganze Abschnitte auf denen wilder , meterhoher Farn wächst !

      Wir steuern unseren ....wie immer.... wunderschönen Campingplatz "A Vouga" ca 4 km außerhalb der Stadt an.
      Direkt an einer kleinen Bucht mit direktem Zugang zum Meer ! 🌞🌅 Herrlich ❤️

      Leider ist unsere Freude ein bisschen getrübt, weil mein Bike anscheinend ein Päuschen braucht ..... getreu dem Motto.....wer sein Rad liebt, der schiebt 😜 4 km von der Stadt zum Campingplatz.... Sportprogramm erfüllt 😜

      Hoffen wir, dass die Werkstatt im Ort mein wichtigstes Fortbewegungsmittel wieder flott machen kann 😁
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    • Day 60

      Parasolglück

      October 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Zufällig stolperte ich vor ein paar Tagen über einen Artikel, wo stand das es in Nordspanien viele Pilze gibt. Also stand heute Pilze sammeln am Plan, wir versuchten auf Maps einen geeigneten Wald zu finden. Gar nicht so leicht von oben. 🙈

      Der erste Wald war ein Reinfall, dieser war viel zu dicht und verwachsen. Also markierte Tino einen Punkt auf einem Hügel, bei einem Wasserspeicher im Wald.

      Ca. 2km vor dem Ziel wurde aus der Straße ein Schotterweg, der etwas Geländegängigkeit erforderte. Deshalb fuhren wir ab, da nur mehr Schrittgeschwindigkeit, was perfekt war, wie sich nachher rausstellte.

      Auf der linken Straßenseite in der Wiese entdeckten wir einen großen Pilz, auf den ersten Blick dachte ich, das es kein essbarer Pilz sei, Tino sagte, ich soll aussteigen und ihn mir ansehen. Und zu unserer Freude es war ein großer wunderschöner Parasol Schirmling. 😍
      Diese Sorte Pilz kennen wir von zu Hause. Jedes Jahr im Herbst freuen wir uns auf diese Leckerei, wir dachten, das uns dieser Gaumen Schmaus dieses Jahr verwährt bleibt, um so mehr freuen wir uns über diesen Fund. 😍

      Ich entdeckte noch zahlreiche große Schirme, aber hinter einer Menge Dornen und Sträucher.
      Wir schauten noch kurz weiter, ob wir wo anders welche finden, kehrten aber schnell wieder zurück zu dem Platz.
      Im Nieselregen, bewaffnet mit einer Gartenschere, schnitt Tino den Weg frei.

      Als wir runter in den Wald gingen, war das bezaubernd .. Efeu, Laub .. es roch so gut. 🍁🍂
      Und da Standen sie, bestimmt 15 große Parasol Schirme. Wir waren so dankbar dafür. 🙏

      Wieder beim Bus angekommen, suchten wir uns einen Stellplatz. Wir fanden ein schönes Plätzchen mit Blick auf das Meer. 🌊

      Am Abend gab es dann noch lecker panierte Parasol. 🍄 Das uns sofort an die Heimat erinnert hat. 🥰
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    • Day 42

      Santiago de Compostela to Negreira

      June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      I expected today to be challenging, but it turned out to be ok. First I thought I was going to be an emotional wreck leaving Santiago, and admittedly, I did cry my way out of town. I was worried that it would be hard with hills and downhills. I was worried that after four days off, my feet would blister. I heard from some unknown source, that the trip out of Santiago was along highways for miles and horrible.

      Well, gladly, none of that turned out to be true...except the crying my way out of Santiago. The hills were ok...hard, but not impossible. The downhills were not too steep. My feet did not blister in any new spot. And the trip out of Santiago was lovely. See my pictures. Within a kilometre of the Santiago Cathedral, the Way passed along cobbled streets, a park, and then immediately into countryside.

      I met a few people I knew from the Camino Frances along the Way, met a new friend along the Way, and so in the end, I walked some of the Way on my own, and some of the Way in the company of friends old and new. It was not a terribly difficult walk today with only 23 km to cover, and in the sun it was definitely warm, but not terrible. No rain today, but tomorrow is promising rain...so we were all enjoying a day without any rain.

      Negreira is an interesting town. In this town there is an esteemed music academy for wind instruments including the bagpipes. I wondered about the bagpipe theme as we got closer to Santiago, and in fact, when you walk in to the square, pilgrims are piped in by a bagpipe player. I always thought bagpipes were more of a Scottish influence, but apparently this town of Negreira is also renown for its academy of music, and one instrument is the bagpipes...so now it all makes sense.

      Negreira has Roman beginnings as Roman ruins were uncovered in the last centuries verifying this, but in the late 10th century around 975, Negreira was pillaged and sacked several times before the early 1100's when it became an important pilgrimage centre for both pilgrims travelling to the "end of the world" and for pilgrims coming from the seaside to Santiago. Because Negreira is only 70 km from the sea, it was also an important passage to and from the sea.

      Those of you who have travelled with me before know that foreign bugs and I often have a problem. I must have got bit by a spider of sorts, because I have welts on my left hand, and one on my midriff. A friend, who was just having wine with me, noticed my hand, and immediately commented on it...I didn't know she was a dermatologist! And as much as many of you might find it hard to believe, I am being a very good patient, and a concoction of Benadryl ( oral and topical), topical anti bacterial medicine, the basics of a first aid kit, the reaction may be contained, but fortunately tomorrow is Monday, and so getting into a pharmacist or doctor tomorrow will be easier.

      I tell you on the Camino, if it is not your feet or your legs...it is a small cut or small insect bite that takes its toll on our already fragile immune systems. I have learned a great deal about the limits of the human body, and have tremendously more respect for how to keep it well and healthy.
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    • Day 13

      Day 13 — San Juan Festival

      June 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      The morning started with a drama, I went to get my wash bag to clean my teeth & couldn’t find it anywhere. We turned both the tent and the car upside down to no avail. I then popped up to the campsite reception & had a stupid conversation with 2 blokes who didn’t speak a word of English. Luckily the owner, Ellie, seemed to understand what I had lost & returned with my missing wash bag. Evidently, I had left it by the washing up sinks the previous evening after having a shower. That will teach me to try and multitask!!

      After another morning on the beach, we headed up for our usual beers on the verandah, but horror of horrors, Geoff & Veronica were sat in OUR seats. And to make matters worse, Geoff even acknowledged that they were sat in our seats. The bloody cheek of it!

      We had our usual couple of ice cold beers, a portion of chips & complimentary ham & cheese croquettes, whilst we put the world to rights with G & V.

      After another afternoon in the sun, we retired early for the big event, the San Juan Festival. Throughout Spain, the summer solstice is celebrated on the 23rd June every year, known as the San Juan Festival, with big fires blazing on the beaches. To celebrate, the campsite was putting on a free buffet for the campers & a requisite fire.

      At 8.15pm, we joined Gillingham G & V on the campsite veranda. We ordered a large beer each & Jackie went off in search of the free buffet. She came back with a plate of chicken & sausages for me & a plate of mussels & fried sardines for herself. An absolutely fantastic spread & all the more tastier because it was free. Between the four of us we bought & consumed four bottles of red wine.

      Around 11pm, the staff asked us to go out to the car park where a small fire was ablaze. We were given a hot toddies (or two) and we stood around the fire. A few people including the manageress, Ellie, jumped or stepped over the fire, maybe it’s the tradition. The highlight was one half-wit jumped over the fire, but somehow managed to sit back down into it, then jumped up frantically patting his backside.

      That should have concluded the evening, but G & V invited us back to their super plush motor home for more red wine. We, probably Jackie, was being loud and raucous, because sometime around midnight a Spanish man in the neighbouring motor home poked his head out of the window & told us to “Shut up “. We continued drinking until 12.45am apparently, I don’t actually remember getting home to bed.

      It had been a very enjoyable evening & a good laugh with G & V.

      Songs of the Day : Honour the Fire by Killing Joke.
      Sometime Around Midnight by Airborne Toxic Event.
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    • Day 10

      Day 10 - The Rain in Spain…….

      June 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Three times during the night Jackie re-inflated her airbed which makes a hell of a racket, particularly in the dead of the night. On top of this, my solar fairy lights were on crazy mode, which makes our pitch more like Blackpool Illuminations. Jackie informed me she was not sleeping on the airbed again.

      We finally awoke just before 10am, but to our horror we discovered that it was raining again, contrary to the weather forecast. Fortunately it seemed to be just a passing shower and minutes later we having coffee & a breakfast of artisan bread and jam. Everything was perfect until a black cloud loomed over, then burst. We ran for cover into our tent grabbing what we could as the rain hoofed down to the extent that a river was flowing past the door of our tent.

      I had had enough & with it still raining, I made a rash decision to immediately go & find a camping shop & buy a new airbed. I googled camping stores & ‘Oh god’, the nearest was a Decathlon in Santiago de Compostela an hours drive away & where we had been just the previous day. We bit the bullet & set off in the pouring rain like a couple of feral dogs, without a shower, cleaning our teeth or changing our clothes. Not our proudest moment.

      We stopped in Muros, a small harbour town, a couple of miles from the campsite & visited a hardware shop in the vain hope they might sell air beds. We came out with a small door mat, a back up bottle opener & a cheese grater……… as you do. We then visited a supermarket next door for more provisions. I had the one job of getting Jackie 3 litres of white wine, one bottle cost just 99 cents, so I treated her to others at the exorbitant cost of €1.99 each.

      We then drove the exact route to Santiago de Compostela & to the biggest Decathlon we had ever seen. After much umming & aahing about whether it would fit, we bought a a small double comfort airbed for me, as well as another rain jacket I didn’t really need, another pair of sunglasses and a cap & bikini top for Jackie.

      An hour later having driven through more rain we arrived back at our campsite in glorious sunshine & we vowed to not drive anywhere tomorrow, until we realised that I had bought just 1 bottle of white wine & 2 more bottles of red wine. Doh. In the remainder of the afternoon we faffed about deflating & inflating airbeds, whilst listening to the entire fifth day’s play in 1st Ashes Test that left me deflated at it’s conclusion.

      Jackie cooked up a huge pot of Chilli Con Carne, which we had with salad & bread. Jackie also fed a family of sparrows that multiplied by the minute.

      The evening finished nicely with a small pod of dolphins swimming up & down in the sea in front of us. I didn’t attempt to grab my camera having learnt from my less than successful attempt to photograph pink dolphins in Thailand.

      Song of the Day : Kingdom of Rain by The The.
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    Porto do Son

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