Here you’ll find travel reports about Zumaia. Discover travel destinations in Spain of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

13 travelers at this place:

  • Day31

    After our eventful day yesterday and experience on Spanish roads we felt apprehensive about how today's journey would turn out. The night before we carefully planned the route, especially the first section through San Sebastián, and I had written out instructions which I pinned to Tony's back. All the street names were in the Basque language and impossible to pronounce. We set off from the hotel and headed towards San Sebastián when we stopped to check the map a helpful local pointed us in the direction of the cycle route which we followed and found one of the town's beaches - phew. Next job was to find coffee. We came across the town hall with at least one wedding party standing outside. The square was packed so we headed down to the harbour area but the restaurants there only served food. We next tried the old town and found a little cafe with a fabulous choice of tapas or pintxos (the basque name) . Unfortunately we had only recently had breakfast so could only manage coffee which cost a mere €3.15 - bargain!
    We headed out of San Sebastián which was a bit of a challenge. We found a large supermarket to get provisions then set off towards Zarautz. The route was uphill for quite a way despite following a river (for a local cycling friends, it was the equivalent of 7 Beaulieu hills). The Spanish drivers were quite good but Stoker was constantly worried about the gutter running along the side of the road which we were cycling close to. We had lunch by the beach at Zarautz and were pleasantly surprised that the route took us around the coast with some fantastic views but not too bad hills. Stoker was now worried about the low barrier and sheer drops into the sea!!

    When we reached Zumaia there seemed to be a kayak race going on so it was rather crowded. Tonight we stayed in a bungalow on a camp site. The approach to the campsite was up a very steep hill and our bungalow was at the top of the site so another hill. Still it was a comfy little bungalow and we cooked some tea and prepared for more hills and scary adventures tomorrow.
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  • Day48

    Day 47: Ulia - Zumaia

    September 29, 2016 in Spain

    Distance: 33.5 (1174.4/805.6)
    Weather: 27C, sunny and windy
    Mood: lonesome
    Blisters: 0
    Staying at: Zumaia Pilgrims hostel

    Ask for solitude and you get...

    Loneliness... Today I felt alone in the most beautiful scenery. My feet no longer hurt and the walking is going well. I enjoy the more challenging climbs here and there are plenty of options on the way to enjoy the nice Spanish food, lattes and frappes. Still, instead of joy, gratitude or even just chilled out, I was overcome by a feeling of loneliness this morning. Why now? I have been walking for so long and many days alone.
    I was thinking about what will happen when I get back home and I noticed that I am really longing for a "normal" life again, with some sort of work and my own place to live (and the same comfy bed every night and real towels, yay!). Without these things, I struggle to feel my identity and maybe that's starting to make me feel a bit lonely too.
    Luckily a few nice ladies at home cheered me up with their virtual company (thanks Nicole, Sharon and Jolka!) and soon I was engrossed in the waking again, step by step by step.
    Tomorrow I have a bit of a tough choice to make, walk 35k with a really challenging climb at the end or walk only 20k and do the climb tomorrow... in the rain. Opinions can be shared on the discussion board 😉
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  • Day4


    September 15, 2017 in Spain

    I love it when there's a breakfast stop about 5kms from our starting point. That first hour of walking has a clear purpose - coffee and tortilla con patata!

    Today's breakfast stop had an extra point of interest - it's the hometown of Antxon Gonzalez Gabarain (aka Bolitx), the famous Basque pilgrim who sadly passed away from ALS/MND. Before he died, he wrote El Gran Caminante, a book documenting his walk to Santiago from his front door in Zumaia. I recently read and thoroughly enjoyed the English translation of this book.

    Each morning, Antxon ordered both an espresso and a cafe con leche for his breakfast. It seemed only right to do the same in his home town this morning!
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  • Day132

    Drivin' to Zumaia

    August 2, 2017 in Spain

    After having a profound conversation with Ronja’s dad in his room and eating a healthy fruit breakfast it was time to say goodbye once more to our Spanish/ German friends from Válor.

    The whole day we drove through the centre of Spain in direction of San Sebastian where Michek should meet his girlfriends from Granada again.
    In the middle of the night we arrived in the area where I started my walk to Santiago in May. The girls camped right next to the official “camino de la costa” I once walked along. Just 1,5k next to Zumaia :).
    We parked the Mercedes next to the girls car and their tent and Michek hugged his favourite girl called “Machita” straight away happily.
    With a view to the the sea we spent some time sitting and lying in a circle in the grass, before I decided to sleep in the car.
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  • Day133

    Chillin' in Zumaia

    August 3, 2017 in Spain

    This day we (Me, Tacco) decided spontaneously to give Michek and his girl a bit more time on their own and went down to Zumaia to get some good breakfast, a shower and to explore the town.
    We enjoyed a simple meal sitting on the bench and watching some pilgrims crossing our way.
    Then we end up in a good bar to drink a beer and stayed there some hours drinking and talking about modern history and girls of course :D.
    The bar keeper was a massive, friendly men who won the world cup 11 times of a typical Basque ball sport I never heard before.

    Going back to the Mercedes we discovered a bill cause we parked wrong!! 80€ !! Talking to the next group of pupils crossing our way they decided to help us and showed us the way to the next police station. We wanted to pay the bill directly to get the discount of 50% mentioned on that little paper.
    The police officer explained us kind that there is no possibility to pay directly in the office and that we’ve to do a transaction after we received the bill by post. But it could happen, that the bill would not be sent to Germany…
    A bit pissed Tacco grabbed the bill again and formed it to a paper ball in his fist right in front of the officer “de la guardia civil”. Walking out and being still accompanied by the little group of pupils Tacco just put the bill in his mouth and ate it straight away earning some surprised and laughing faces :D.

    Returning to our place on the fields we just saw three of the girls sitting there and cooking some “Ravioli” but Michek and Machita were missing.
    The funny but really observant girls explained us that our mate went away for a walk after they’ve spent some hours at the beach..
    Lying there next to the girls in the grass I felt the beers working inside my body and just kept on smiling.
    After chilling with the girls Michek came by with his girl and both looked so happy.

    For sunset I walked alone to the coast and got impressed once more by the coast of the “camino de la costa”. I felt so thankful for this moment and my whole walking experience during this fabulous time! :)
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  • Day7

    Küstenweg the hardcore way

    July 14, 2017 in Spain

    Tag 7: Freitag, 14.07.2017

    Von Azkizu liefen wir -für uns im Affenzahn- nach Zarautz. Auf dem Weg, kurz nach der privaten Herberge, trafen wir eine junge Russin, die uns ein Stück begleitete, bis wir auch ihr zu langsam waren. 😁 Zu unsrer Verteidigung: sie läuft daheim Marathons, ist also trainiert. Ihr Tagespensum von 50km (bis Bilbao) erschien uns dann aber doch mehr als sportlich und eher unrealistisch. Mal sehen ob, wann und wo wir sie wiedersehen.

    Der nächste Ort war Zumaia, wo wir erst eine Frühstückspause am Fluss und dann noch direkt eine Mittagspause mit Pinchos (ähnlich wie Tapas nur kleine, belegte Baguettes) einlegten, da es auf dem Weg nichts zu essen geben würde. Auf dem Weg in den Ort begegneten uns zudem die belgischen Jungs und es gab noch ein kleines Gruppenfoto. Wir waren dann doch ziemlich stolz, weil wir noch weiterlaufen wollten und die zwei in Zumaia nächtigten. Hätten wir gewusst was für eine heftige Etappe auf uns wartete, wären wir wohl geplatzt vor Stolz - oder hätten es uns anders überlegt... 😄

    Nach einem weiteren Stopp beim Supermarkt für die dringend notwendige Ration Zucker (Heisshunger lässt grüßen..), ging es dann über kleine und steile Wege hinauf zur Kapelle. Dort oben gab es dann einen super Ausblick auf die zuvor von den Einheimischen mehrfach angepriesenen Flysch-Felsen.

    Weiter ging es auf dem nunmehr nicht mehr gelb sondern weiß-rot gekennzeichneten Weg zunächst über einen schmalen Bergkamm; nix für Höhenangstgeplagte. Generell wie der Rest unserer Etappe des Tages.
    Wir hatten uns bewusst für den wesentlich! schwierigeren aber dafür deutlich schöneren Weg entlang der Küste über Geröllhänge und halsbrecherische Auf- und Abstiege entschieden. Und dafür nahmen wir jede Stunde mehr gern in Kauf...

    Und so kraxelten wir Stunde um Stunde, Kilometer um Kilometer, Stein um Stein 12! Stunden Richtung Deba. Was für ein Ritt. Aber hinter jeder Biegung, fast alle paar Meter, bot sich uns ein neuer atemberaubender Anblick. Einmalig! Und die Kletterei machte uns zudem einfach nur mega glücklich. Zersaust, rot und verschwitzt, aber glücklich. 😍

    Besonders der letzte Anstieg hatte es in sich, zumal wir mal wieder mega spät waren und es irgendwie vor 22:00 in die Herberge in Deba schaffen mussten. Taten wir auch und das obwohl wir uns 3 Mal ob der schlechten Ausschilderung (ist ja eine Nebenstrecke und nicht der Hauptweg) verlaufen hatten (daher auch so lang gebraucht hatten) und ein Spanier, dem es offensichtlich auf den Keks ging, dass die Pilger über seinen Hof laufen (müssen), uns absichtlich falsch leitete und damit tatsächlich echt in Gefahr brachte, da wir einen eigentlich verbotenen, sau steilen Hang hinab in die Stadt steigen mussten...

    Aber wir kamen an. NUR hatte mich mein vorab mal wieder schlechtes Bauchgefühl auch diesmal nicht getäuscht.
    Es gab keine Betten mehr in der Herberge. Und zu allem Überfluss war der amerikanische Hospitalero (das ganze wird noch spannend: er und seine Frau nächtigen heute (Samstag) mit uns in Markina-Xemein aber dazu später mehr) mega unfreundlich und schlug uns vor, doch am Strand zu schlafen bevor er uns rausschmiss, da es in Deba sonst kein einziges Hotel/Hostel gibt.
    Doch auch wenn uns der Gedanke einer Nacht am Strand wildromantisch erschien, empfanden wir es doch als sinnvoll und achtsam uns selbst gegenüber, dass wir nach unserem 12 Stunden Lauf (zwölf Stunden, das muss ich an dieser Stelle noch einmal betonen...), verschwitzt und verdreckt besser in einem richtigen Bett schlafen sollten. Also, cheaten hin oder her, riefen wir zunächst in der privaten Herberge in Arnope an ob es noch zwei Betten gäbe (gab es) und dann ein Taxi, da der Weg sonst 1-2 Stunden (im Dunkeln) gedauert hätte und wir kaum noch kriechen konnten. Und die Entscheidung war gut, denn die Herberge war recht nett. Auch wenn mich während der Taxifahrt dorthin ein bisschen ein schlechtes Gewissen beschlich.
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