Grape Escape - New Zealand

November - December 2013
A 44-day adventure by The Travel Bug Read more
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  • Day 13

    The Kiwi Experience

    November 13, 2013 in New Zealand

    Rotorua, Bay Of Plenty, New Zealand
    Wednesday, November 13, 2013

    Wednesday 13 November

    A good trip to Rotorua, stopping at Waihi, an old mining town that still has an operating open cast gold mine. It is a BIG hole, (see pics ). Devon Merry Mystery Tourers eat your heart out. You want mining, this is it and the end result is so pretty! Interestingly, there is also the remains of a Cornish pumping tower on site, that used to pump 7000 gallons of water out per hour, in the 1800s.
    Lunch was taken harbour-side at Tauranga. Geraldine and I hovered over Safe Sex on the Beach, but decided it was far too chilly and settled on a Naked Grape! Before you think this trip has turned our heads, be assured, they are Mocktails!! Whilst on the subject of drink, we have taken the grape aspect of our trip very seriously and are trying out a different variety nightly. Our favourite so far has been a Villa Maria Sauvignon Southern Clay, but Napier looms and I expect it to have a run for it's money there. We arrived here at Rotorua late afternoon and are just a block from one of the geo thermal areas. A faint wiff of hydrogen sulphide lingers on the air and we have many physical geographical features to cover over the next couple of days. Tonight we visited a Maori village for a traditional hangi meal. The meat is cooked in traditional manner over hot coals buried under ground. It was very tasty and tender, accompanied by various salads, garlic bread and gravy(?!), the like of which have never graced an authentic Maori banana leaf I suspect. It certainly beat hands down the meal on the harbour at Hong Kong so that's a mighty plus. It was a good evening, but not a patch on the the Maori performance at Waitangi with Chief Peter earlier in the week, but then what could top that?
    In seriousness the highlight of the evening for us was the true Kiwi Experience. We were led through the bush to a series of large enclosures in the hope of seeing a live Kiwi, NZs national symbol. It is a strange but haunting flightless bird, that is almost mammal like and snuffles around in the undergrowth for its food. These are a small group of captive birds, part of a study programme that will not be able to be released into the wild. To our joy we saw three and for me, it sealed a perfect day.
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  • Day 14

    Rotorua

    November 14, 2013 in New Zealand ⋅ 13 °C

    Rotorua, Bay Of Plenty, New Zealand
    Thursday, November 14, 2013

    Thursday 14 November

    The day dawned bright and sunny and so it has continued. We have explored Rotorua and some of its geothermals. It is such a strange mixture. Close to our motel, as I mentioned yesterday, is a geothermal park and I must be honest I expected it to be an area of natural scrub interspersed with mud pools, steaming lakes and fumaroles. The actuality was something of a surprise. There were all of the aforementioned features, surrounded by perfectly manicured lawns, shrubberies, laid out planting and topped with a wisteria clad Monet's bridge! The azaleas are at their best and the white Chatham lilies a picture, but it seemed such an incongruous mix as to be almost bewildering. I suppose I had Yellowstone in my mind as a benchmark and had anticipated a similar approach. The second area of volcanic activity is mixed in with a Maori village and expensive to view, as one has to take the whole package, so we left it, bearing in mind as we move on tomorrow, we will pass the largest area about 30 kms south. We drove slightly out of town this afternoon to look at some of the many beautiful lakes created as a result of past volcanic activity. At one spot, one can stand on a ridge between the green (Rotokakahi) and blue (Tikitapu) lakes and view the two. It is absolutely true, one does look blue and the other green, apparently due to the granite base of one and sandy bottom of the other. Well, who'd a thunk it!! We finished the afternoon by driving round the whole of Lake Rotorua, which is large. It was a perfect afternoon with not a cloud in the sky. We came upon a glorious spot called Hamurana recreation resort, of which I will upload a picture or two. To our astonishment, there on the lake, were hundreds of black swans and their cygnets. We stood and watched them for ages quite spellbound. This evening, our last in Rotorua, we had a meal at the Skyline restaurant approached via a gondola service. The views were amazing and the meal taken watching the sun set over the town and lake, as a myriad of twinkling lights transformed the area into a magical wonderland.
    Rotorua, is unusual and the jury is out for me as to my opinion. I am reminded of a conversation I had with Richard W, when he said he felt it had been over-commercialised to the point of ruination and not to waste a great deal of time there. I see exactly where you are coming from Richard and may well come to agree with you.
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  • Day 15

    The Best of Rotorua

    November 15, 2013 in New Zealand ⋅ 12 °C

    Rotorua, Bay Of Plenty, New Zealand
    Friday, November 15, 2013

    Friday 15 November

    I think you can safely say we are geothermal'd out! We moved on this am to Napier stopping off at Wai-O-Tapu on the way. At last here were the type of volcanic features I had been expecting, in their natural setting. Those of you who know me well will be shocked to hear we were on the doorstep of the Lady Constance Geyser well before she was due to blow at 10.15am and this is 30 kms from Rotorua. The geyser is billed as a bigger event than Old Faithfull in Yellowstone. Not so on several accounts. Impressive certainly, but nudged into action by a chemical fixer and has been for the last 80 years, to prevent a huge blow out. There were sufficient coloured pools, boiling mud pools and travertine terraces to excite the average geographer to death. Peter on fixing his eye on the sixth mud pool was heard to mutter, 'seen one mud patch seen 'em all'! The sun shone, glistening off the silica deposits and the whole area looked like a scene from a moonscape. Fascinating to think what is going on under the surface of such a green and pleasant land and how close everything is to being blown away. New Zealand sits on the edge of two tectonic plates moving over one another. The resulting eruptions and earthquakes have shaped a land of great beauty that is still evolving at a fast rate (geophysically that is). We sped on down towards Taupo and it's enormous volcanic lake to view the Huka Falls, which is another sight not to be missed. The force of the water is phenomenal and it is pure turquoise, which is arresting on it's own. Interestingly, the foliages on the edge of the gorge are really alpine, whilst just a few feet away is sub- tropical lush vegetation. Such contrast in such a small area. It was relatively quiet and we had no problem getting to and viewing whatever we wished to. The only irritating factor was the ever camera happy Japanese/ Korean/Chinese who seem to have to be photographed in front of every half interesting feature available. Manners are clearly non existent in their culture and I am just relieved that we are unlikely to be asked to view their enormous photograph collections!!
    The remainder of the journey to Napier passed without incident and as we neared Napier and Hawkes Bay the scenery became even more beautiful. Wineries appeared everywhere and we started to anticipate the wine tastings to come!
    The hotel here is super, on the beach and each room has a spa bath in to accommodate the whole of the wine group in one hit. We ate at a really good restaurant called Pacifico tonight. I don't expect to better the meal in the next 3 months. We came on it quite by chance and if you're ever this way look it up.
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  • Day 16

    Napier

    November 16, 2013 in New Zealand

    Napier, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand
    Saturday, November 16, 2013

    Saturday 16 November

    We just love Napier. It has an elegance and timeless quality about it, in no small part due to its extraordinary architecture. Peter and I joined an Art Deco Walking Tour this morning and were lucky enough to be guided by a retired architect, who had been Chairman of the Art Deco Association. A charming fellow, who really knew his stuff. Napier was raised to the ground in 1931 by an earthquake measuring 7.8 on the Richter scale - Big. The townspeople set about rebuilding their town with the now added advantage of the land being raised 2mtrs as a result of the quake, giving them a much larger land mass to play with. This was of course the hey day of The Art Deco period (between the wars) , so consequently the whole CBD was expanded and rebuilt in that style. Amazingly, the town has managed to retain 140 buildings and now has the largest collection of AD buildings in the world. I had only seen the odd building in this style before and it's not until you see a whole planned town, that you begin to realise how ground breaking as a style it must have been at the time and how attractive. Today being Saturday, there were cars of the age driving through the streets. There were lots of small interesting shops and for the first time on this trip I felt like a browse, but luckily for Peter there was insufficient time. I know, I'm losing my grip- where will it all end?
    We did pop into one of the supermarkets on the way back to the hotel with some trepidation, it being prime time on a Saturday morning and images of piled trolleys and grumpy shoppers at Tescos flashed into the mind. To our astonishment it was practically empty, we could find all we needed and pay without any hassle. We came out shell shocked and had to find a strong cup of coffee to recover.
    This afternoon was the first of our planned Grape Escapes. We were collected from our hotel at 12.30 in a small coach, the back of which was already filled with young ladies, who looked as if they could be heading for a day trip of the lady Licence Victuallers Assn. We hadn't gone half a mile before PL leaned over and whispered 'do you think it's going to be this noisy all afternoon'. I whispered back 'noisier!'. He turned a whiter shade of pale. We stopped yet again in a small cull de sac of houses when yet more young things piled out of houses in skimpy frocks, tottering heels & in some cases complete with fascinators! We now have a full bus of 24 and apart from Greg the driver and organiser and Peter and Reg, all were female! South Wootton Wine Group eat your heart out (well the male half anyway). We all had to introduce ourselves in modern fashion, so amidst the Shelley's, Raquel's and Tanya's there were Dulcie, Peter, Geraldine and Reg. I'm not sure who was the more surprised. We visited 3 Hawkes Bay Vineyards or Wineries as they are known here. The sun continued to pour down and the afternoon just got noisier and noisier as the wines started to loosen a few tongues, that weren't slack already. Once the crowd adjusted to the idea of these old fogies in their midst, they became very welcoming and chatty and we ended up having to have a group photo taken with Peter and Reg overwhelmed by female lushness(is there such a word, or has the wine coddled my thought processes?) The wineries were a revelation. We tried around 8 wines in each one , plus some local olive oils and cheeses. If only there was no airline weight restriction! The tally of bottles and cases of wine bought increased as we moved on, until every time we went round a corner there was mass clinking. We did succumb and buy some lovely Sauvignon Blanc to take with us and drink at our chill out stop at Furness Lodge, on Queen Charlottes Sound, in a few days time. The winery was Ngatarawa and the setting was simply beautiful. I will post a couple of pics for you to see. It was a fun afternoon and when we dropped back at our hotel we were clapped and cheered off the coach. It is most noticeable how friendly everyone is here. Strangers still say good morning in the street and stop to help you out if you look lost. The work/life balance is spot on and it does make one nostalgic for more simple times.
    On returning to Napier we were in need of sustenance to soak up all that alcohol and Yep, you've guessed it, we headed straight to the nearest Fish and Chip shop and ate them out of the paper sitting at a picnic table by the beach. It was a glorious evening and all seemed right with the world. One night fine dining par excellence, the next F&C on the beach!
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  • Day 17

    Martinborough

    November 17, 2013 in New Zealand ⋅ 16 °C

    Wellington, Wellington, New Zealand
    Sunday, November 17, 2013

    Sunday 17 November

    A travelling day today, but an interesting start in Napier, the windscreen of the hire car had developed a crack overnight. Quelle Horreur!! There followed multiple phone calls from PL accompanied by much pacing up and down and running of hands through hair, whilst the rest of us tucked into breakfast! The result was we drove down to Wellington with said crack and it moved not an inch, so all was well.
    We stopped at Martinborough, about 100 kms north of the capital, as it is a small town renowned for its boutique wineries. When we arrived the place was heaving, and it's only small. It emerged that we had turned up just too late to immerse ourselves in a food and wine open Sunday, with all wineries open for business. Probably as well, as someone would have lost out, to be able to drive the rest of the way to Wellington. Looked really interesting mind and to test it out we had a great Martinborough Pinot Noir at dinner tonight. Lovely restaurant around the corner from the hotel. Boulcott Street Bistro, a lovely clapperboard quirky house, the original home of John Plinner the founder of the New Zealand Company.
    We are off to explore Wellington tomorrow-will let you know.
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  • Day 18

    Wellington

    November 18, 2013 in New Zealand ⋅ 14 °C

    Wellington, Wellington, New Zealand
    Monday, November 18, 2013

    Monday 18 November

    As you probably know, New Zealand's capital city was named in honour of the Duke of Wellington and we have been all over it like a rash, as we have only had this one day to form an impression. The Iron Duke would approve of our energy and perseverance, but then Peter did win his only school prize for the latter! We decided to take a half day tour with Paul from Flat Earth and It was an early start (yet again, and you know how much I love those!). However, it was worth it to cover the ground. We drove all around the harbour, little bays and charming, if expensive, suburbs many close to the beaches, but just 15 mins from the city centre. Again, you have to think that the work/life balance is pretty good here. Coffee and a cheese scone at a shell built café at Scorching Bay, south facing and hill sheltered from the prevailing winds, so always, well, scorching!
    I have been really struck by the diverse architecture throughout our journey so far and none more so than here in Wellington. There are no two houses alike or so it seems and whether it be a traditional or modern style the kerb appeal alone is enough to draw one in. Many are built into the hillsides with fabulous sea or scenic views and some have no vehicular access at all. They are often individually serviced by their own private elevator running up the steep cliff face. I had visions of getting half way up with the weekly shop for there to be a power cut. I have left my phone on the kitchen table and am wearing totally unsuitable footwear and clothing. Naturally, it is raining and blowing a gale. All romantic illusions shattered in one hit or what?!
    We viewed the government and entertainment districts, plus the views from Mt Victoria. It was a cool and slightly overcast morning, so couldn't see the mountains of Kaioura which are often visible on a clear day over the Cook Straits. We were to finish the tour using the cable car, but it was out of action, so a bus had to suffice. Sound familiar? Well, they can't get everything right. Again, another fabulous harbour view, followed by a walk down through The Botanic Gardens, which were lovely and yes, Mary, the Rose Garden was in full bloom and just wonderful. It reminded me of our trip to Houghton last summer, fellow wine imbibers. (Minus the champagne of course). An amusing note - we caught sight of an Oriental gentleman very carefully photographing the lift in the visitor centre. A normal lift, nothing out of the ordinary you understand. We are still trying to get our heads round it! Flower arrangers, please note the photo of the bench I found here. It will strike a chord. A more charming way to be remembered I cannot imagine.
    Lunch was taken at the outdoor cafe in the rose garden and the sun had by now appeared. Picture the scene; small tables under a vine pergola filled with fellow garden lovers, cheeky sparrows dodging about looking for scraps, a riot of colours from the rose beds and the beautiful Japanese inspired Peace Garden to the right, casting a spell over all. It was a delightful, calm oasis in the middle of a hectic day. Following a rest and bask in the sun we walked down through the city to the harbour, following the path round to Te Papa, Wellington's famous interactive museum, here we spent an informative and interesting couple of hours. The wharf areas have been redeveloped spectacularly in recent years, in common with many similar harbours throughout the world, from being somewhat dank and run down to an attractive and lively area full of restaurants, bars, sailing and rowing facilities and art work. The Wellingtonians are justifiably proud of their city as the art and culture centre of New Zealand and modern and traditional art installations are placed throughout the city and harbour, to great effect. It is without doubt a spectacularly naturally set capital with a great deal to offer. Much is made of the climate and it's disposition to wind, but then it is the most southerly capital city in the world. Perhaps we were lucky as there was no wind to speak of. I understand that it is subject to biting southerlies direct from the Antarctic during the winter, which perhaps gives rise to the notion. We retreated back to our city apartment, footsore and weary, but feeling that we had managed to achieve as good an overview as was possible in the time available.
    Yet again, it is time to pack up and move on in the morning, (crack of dawn once more!) leaving our car at the Inter Island ferry terminal and moving on to the South Island. We leave the North with regret. We have loved it, but are conscious that we have left plenty for another occasion should the chance arise. Fingers crossed!
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  • Day 19

    North to South

    November 19, 2013 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    Picton, Marlborough, New Zealand
    Tuesday, November 19, 2013

    Tuesday 19 November

    The car was safely delivered to the ferry terminus at 7. 30 this morning and I jest not! Geraldine, (no sailor of note) was relieved to see that no rowing was required and the sea was like a mill pond. The crossing was picturesque in the extreme, particularly when the ship swung into Queen Charlotte Sound. Everything was made so much more intense by the sun sparkling off the blue blue sea. We ventured individually onto the observation deck at key intervals to observe (highly original) and take the odd photograph. By the very nature of the beast it is exposed and was blowing a gale, or so it seemed. Peter returned from one such trip looking a bit sheepish . I gave him a sharp glance and asked if he was ok ? Intuition told me something was afoot. Sure enough! 'My hat blew off' he muttered. 'You're joking' says I. 'I would have lost it, if a lady hadn't have chased it down the deck and grabbed it just before it disappeared into oblivion'. We looked at one another and dissolved into fits of laughter to the mystification of G&R, who hadn't heard the old story of the vicar who was asked to give a talk to the local scouts on Sex Education. Rather reticent of admitting this to his wife, he told her he was to give a talk on sailing. Several days later, she bumped into the leader of the scout troop who mentioned what an excellent talk the vicar had given. 'Oh really?' exclaimed his wife ' I wasn't aware he knew anything about it. The first time he was sick, the second time his hat blew off!' Exit perplexed scout leader stage left!!! The old ones are the best.............
    Picton has appeared gleaming white in the sunlight at the end of the Sound, so I'd better close temporarily and pick up again later. TTFN
    We are now at Furneaux Lodge our next port of call, literally. After arriving at Picton we were picked up by the Cougar Line launch and travelled for an hour or so up the Sound into Endeavour Inlet to be dropped at Furneaux Lodge, which can only be reached by water. There Is no road access. It is like being on your own desert Island, with its own little beach surrounded by virgin forest. This area has remained untouched since Captain Cook anchored in the Inlet in 1769 naming Mt Furneaux after Captain Tobias Furneaux of HMS Resolution. There is also a Resolution Bay. We have a delightful contemporary suite overlooking the beach and there is not a sound apart from the the birds and the sea. It is heavenly. This is our chill out session before starting our exploration of the South Island and we intend to do very little except enjoy being here.
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  • Day 20

    Furneaux Lodge, Queen Charlotte Sound

    November 20, 2013 in New Zealand ⋅ 28 °C

    Nelson, Nelson, New Zealand
    Wednesday, November 20, 2013

    Wednesday 20 November

    This place is paradise. It is a warm sunny day and the sea is so clear and blue as to be unbelievable. I'm sitting on the verandah writing to you all, just trying to hold this all in my mind. We took a short walk into the forest this am, which is a symphony of light and shade and are relaxing this afternoon. The dining room is first class and the whole place is relaxed and not overdone. I did try to upload some photos to give you an idea, but the connections are very iffy here. I think they may have to catch up at our next establishment. The dawn chorus at 5.30 this morning was deafening, so Reg tells us anyway!! Originally, New Zealand's wildlife consisted purely of birds and 2 mammals (types of bat) . Following the introduction of various pests from overseas, such as the stoat, possum etc the numbers of birds have declined drastically, particularly the flightless birds, except in remote parts such as here. Various conservation groups are trying to redress the balance involving the usual fight with animal groups. We did see odd possum traps around the forest this morning, which is allowed on private property. The tide is out and I've been poking about in the rock pools; there are great clumps of blue mussels, conversely known as the green lipped mussel, lots of tiny crabs, clams and winkles in every crevice. Fascinating the world over. Just sipping a cup of leaf Earl Grey tea, which is an unexpected bonus. Life doesn't get much better (sad little souls that we are!) . Don't panic, we have a great bottle of Sauvignon Blanc in the fridge for pre dinner drinks. On that note, I'll sign off and meet up with you again in Blenheim for the second of the Grape Escapes!Read more

  • Day 21

    En Route

    November 21, 2013 in New Zealand ⋅ 18 °C

    Blenheim, Marlborough, New Zealand
    Thursday, November 21, 2013

    Thursday 21 November

    Leaving Furneaux Lodge on a clear sunny morning was a wrench, but the journey back to Picton by launch was again a joy, stopping off at various jetties to deliver/ drop off people and packages. There are many beautiful quaint houses clinging to the hillsides, with stupendous views of the Sound. In New Zealand a holiday retreat like this is called a Bach (pronounced like catch). It is apparently short for bachelor establishment and according to our skipper they are historically short of amenities and luxuries! However, that is clearly not always the case by the look of some. Everything has to be brought in by boat and the round trip to shop in Picton will take you a day. The last boat back in the summer is 6pm and 1pm in the winter. Forgetting the milk could be tricky!
    We arrived in Blenheim just in time for lunch at Wairua Winery which is just down the road and the half day wine tour booked for this afternoon. It was good, but nowhere near as good as Hawkes Bay. One of the wineries visited was Framingham, named after the founders home at Framinghan Manor in Norfolk. Small world or what? We are on our own tomorrow and will hit a few of our favourites. To say one is spoiled for choice would be an understatement. There are vines as far as the eye can see backed by statuesque mountain ranges. It is quite a sight.
    I'll update you tomorrow if I can see straight enough to type!
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  • Day 22

    Blenheim New Zealand

    November 22, 2013 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Blenheim, Marlborough, New Zealand
    Friday, November 22, 2013

    Friday 22 November

    We've found it Wine Group - the perfect Marigold Hotel! It was a disappointment when we were unable to book the highly recommended VineView, but this alternative 'The Vintners Retreat' also came equally talked up. A collection of small villas, with a communal pool, pétanque, croquet and veg patch and surrounded by vines as far as the eye can see. One can stagger to any number of wineries and drive short distances to many more. The food in general here is first class and the trousers are getting tighter by the day! What geriatric could ask for more, except good company, which would be guaranteed. The pace is relentless and yesterday's session obviously had more of an affect than I anticipated. I discovered this morning that I had washed the clothes in dishwasher detergent as opposed to Persil. We are certainly sparkling today! Lemon finish is always best!!
    Peter is a happy bunny as the cricket has started and it is on in the background, as I attempt to type (all slightly blurry!). 4 English wickets gone in 10 mins at the Gabba ........
    Great tasting day today. Breakfast out at a local cafe and a large Kiwi for PL who sickeningly never puts on a pound and has no issue with waistbands. We started at Villa Maria and moved on to Cloudy Bay, so all high end stuff. Unsurprisingly, the mood became more and more light hearted as the day wore on. A fine lunch was taken at Rockferry Wineries ( an organic winery ) and we have local cheese and a bottle of Cloudy Bay Pinot Gris in the fridge for later. We selected the Pinot Gris, because it was particularly fine (mind you so was most of those sampled) and not available in the UK at present, as only a small amount made annually.
    A snippet of conversation over lunch that may make you smile..... Another wicket down....
    Geraldine: 'I feel stone cold sober at the moment'
    Peter: 'Long may it continue.... have another glass!
    Geraldine: 'At this rate you'll have to sort me out in the back of the car!'
    Followed by guffaws of laughter and protestations of ' I didn't mean it that way'.
    On the way back to The Retreat we stopped to buy some local cherries on the side of the road and called into some small shops to have a browse. The chap in one recognised us from the Cougar Line launch the other day, unfortunately, we didn't remember him! He was very helpful, giving various ideas for things and restaurants (groan) to try. It transpired that he came from Stamford! So the coincidences go on... Yet another wicket, will have to go for a stroll to calm down.
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