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Grape Escape - New Zealand

November - December 2013
A 44-day adventure by The Travel Bug Read more
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  • TravelerGrape Escape - New Zealand
    Day 44

    Wilderness Lodge

    December 14, 2013 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Bealey, Canterbury, New Zealand
    Saturday, December 14, 2013

    This is a heavenly spot and the perfect end to our stay in this beautiful country. It will be wrench to tear ourselves away, so stunning are our surroundings. Wilderness Lodge almost disappears into the beech forest and it's architect won an important award for his clever design that almost seems to grow out of the landscape. The famous American Architect Frank Lloyd Wright said that buildings should be 'of the land' not 'on the land' and how I wish he was adhered to more often.....
    We took a walk around the sheep station late afternoon yesterday with the resident Naturalist, which was so interesting, as a High Country Sheep Station is very different to any farming we have at home. It is a tough regime and a true survival of the fittest, as to call a vet to any animal is a minimum of $1000 NZ and rarely cost effective. The Cora Lynn Station runs some 5000 head of sheep. It specialises in producing fine quality Merino Wool and exports all over the world to the likes of Armani and Versace to name but two. The other half of the Station is run as an Eco Lodge and they are gradually returning the land to its natural state and eradicating the human influence that has had a marked effect over the years. This is the vision of the two people that own the station and they and their staff are doing an amazing job and I would urge anyone travelling this way to stay for a minimum of a couple of nights. You will never forget or regret it.
    The star gazing last night was amazing, as the sky was absolutely clear. We drove out to a field a little distance from the Lodge to escape all human light pollution. I say human, because there was a three quarter moon which according to our guide Michael, compromised the gaze somewhat, but it looked pretty spectacular to us. Venus was clearly visible low in the western sky gradually disappearing over the horizon as we stood there and Jupiter appeared in the eastern quadrant similarly. We saw three satellites speed across the firmament and could see an upside down (to us northern hemisphytes!). Orion, and his dog, Taurus the bull ( need a damn good imagination if I'm honest) and a faint Magellan cloud, our nearest galaxy. So special for us of course, was to see the Southern Cross and it's two pointer stars, not visible in the Northern Hemisphere. We were accompanied on this star gazing by a family of hares that kept leaping round us in mad march hare mode. It was quite an experience.
    This morning dawned clear, sunny and warm and after breakfast Peter and I set out to walk The Rainbow Valley Nature Trail, one of several walking trails emanating from the lodge, of varying degrees of difficulties. Early Maori called this valley the 'Valley of the Mother of Rainbows', because almost every day there are rainbows up towards Arthur's Pass. It is a charming name and only matched by the valley itself. This walk incorporates every type of habitat from beech forest, babbling brooks, a fern gully, spectacular lookouts, lots of bird life, the rare red mistletoe and last but not least the magical Dragonfly Tarn. I could have spent all day just sitting in the sun by the tarn.
    We finished the day with a guided walk into the ancient Moa forest. Weird title I know, but it was a study of the specially adapted plants on the braided river bed and the forests that the now extinct Moa used to roam. The Moa stood nine feet tall and was a flightless bird similar to the ostrich. It was a fascinating walk and having someone to point out and explain things made such a difference. All around were the dramatic peaks and scenery that we have become accustomed to over the last forty eight hours and the day has finished with dinner and another sunset over the mountains.

    So tomorrow, it's goodbye New Zealand; with regret at leaving such a beautiful and welcoming country, but also with the anticipation of what is to come in Australia. I'll be In touch once more when I have the corks in place on the hat!    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape - New Zealand
    Day 43

    Arthur's Pass

    December 13, 2013 in New Zealand ⋅ 21 °C

    Bealey, Canterbury, New Zealand
    Friday, December 13, 2013

    Well the closer look has been granted and how! We began the morning with a second look at the pancake rocks and no bribery was required! There was a strong westerly blowing and the sea was like a maelstrom, but as a consequence we saw the blow holes and surge pools at their best. It drizzled, but we coped and it was worth it and it is the west coast after all. Not for nothing are it's occupants called coasters. They are a special breed undoubtedly. It is dank, oppressive, but hauntingly beautiful. The temperate rainforest grows right down to the coast and there can be nothing in the way of entertainment. There are no amenities (fuel, shops, anything!) between Westport and Greymouth (about 100 kms) and I'm sure I would be on antidepressants within 6 months, despite the fabulous surroundings. The Kiwis are definitely a breed apart; self sufficient, independent and of a can do mentality. We met an English couple on the beach in Abel Tasman, both vets, who had emigrated 10 years ago with their young family. They told the tale of once they had eventually been half accepted into the community ( took 5 yrs) they asked some people over to supper. To their horror, all came with their own plates of food and drinks in a cool bag and politely refused anything offered by their hosts. It is the way things are here apparently. Quite a culture shock for them clearly.
    Our goal today was Wilderness Lodge in the Arthur's Pass National Park. The road to Arthur's Pass climbs steadily, but not dramatically until one reaches the Ottira Gorge. It knocks anything else we have seen into a cocked hat. The weather cleared the further inland we drove and eventually the sun peeped out from behind clouds. Every half mile seemed to be a photo stop, the lupins appeared once more and the scenery just became ever more stunning. We are staying at Wilderness Lodge for our last 2 nights on New Zealand soil, which is situated about 15 kms out of Arthur's Pass township on the Christchurch side. It is an Eco lodge, heavily immersed in conservation projects. The lodge comprises 6000 acres and half of that is down to a nature reserve and the other half a high country sheep station. The rooms all have fabulous mountain views and it is built of local timbers melting into the background so effectively as to be invisible from the road. All meals are taken on the premises, mainly because there is nowhere else to go! The lounge and dining room have similar staggering views of the surrounding peaks and we had dinner this evening watching the sun set over the mountains in a clear blue sky. It was magical. There is a resident naturalist on hand and there are various walks/ trips arranged for you to take part in should you wish. It is in the top 10 Eco lodges in the world apparently and I can see why. We are heading out shortly on a star watching walk in one of the few areas of the Southern Hemisphere where there is zero light pollution. Chance of a lifetime living where we do. Will keep you posted.    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape - New Zealand
    Day 42

    Punakaiki

    December 12, 2013 in New Zealand

    Punakaiki, South Island, New Zealand
    Thursday, December 12, 2013

    It is has taken me several days to get my head around our current port of call. I have been determined to call it Punayaki! Whatever, we left the Abel Tasman Area to drive some 300kms through the Buller Gorge to the northern section of the west coast. The Buller is regarded as one of the finest drives in New Zealand and I can see why. Yet again, you do not know where to look. I hesitate to use the word spectacular once more, but really there isn't an alternative. We hit the west coast at Westport and started to head South. Typically of this neck of the woods the clouds started to gather, but nothing could diminish the views once we actually hit the coast itself. It is wild and I mean that advisedly. The Tasman sea pounds on to the shoreline in great breakers, carving the limestone rock into fantastic shapes. I was glued and had to keep stopping the car to gaze in wonder. PL was less than enthused after the first stop and failed to get out of the car for the next 10! No wonder he failed OLevel geography 3 times, failure to pay proper attention to the physical! No comments please, I mean that purely in geographical terms.
    Punakaiki itself is a very small settlement between Westport and Greymouth. The Punakaiki Resort is right on the beach and we can sit on the balcony, or in the room and watch the caldron like sea. It is mesmerising. However, a kayak would stand no chance! Just to the north are the Pancake Rocks and Blowholes, which is a must see if you are in the area. We made it just before the rain came down once more. Well it is Westland after all. There is no geological explanation, but the rocks are layered like pancakes, heavily carved and eroded by pounding seas into arches, bridges, stacks and anything else you would care to name. The sea blasts through the blow holes and bridges, creating more havoc as it goes. I have never seen anything like it and will have to go back for another look tomorrow if I can motivate PL sufficiently. Bribery do you think? Again no comment please, it would be vulgar!
    There are some great walks or 'tramps' as they are called over here, in the vicinity and I wish we had more time to do some, but then that is the cry wherever you are in New Zealand.
    As I sit writing to you this evening I can hear the surf pounding on the beach some 100 meters away and one is aware that this is a special place on earth. Tomorrow we move on to our final stop at Arthur's Pass National Park in the Southern Alps, which is I suspect another. We have passed through briefly on the Trans Alpine Express and look forward to a closer look.    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape - New Zealand
    Day 41

    Abel Tasman NP

    December 11, 2013 in New Zealand ⋅ 16 °C

    Kaiteriteri, Tasman, New Zealand
    Wednesday, December 11, 2013

    As a warning for the future, please don't ever mention the word Kayak in my hearing and you are about to discover why. The day started bright and early and we met up with our guide plus Rob and Lisa, two very lively Americans from Michigan, who appear to have canoed or kayaked half way round the world! Dave, the guide outlined the day, which was certainly not what we had been led to believe and alarm bells started to ring then, but we got under way. People, kayaks and all the gear were loaded on to a water taxi and tractored down to the beach for launching. Now this is not the sedate rather charming water taxi as in Venice. 'Gav' the skipper proceeded to put his foot down. He had a meeting with the bank manager in 20 mins and clearly had no intention of being late! We slapped through the water, hitting the waves so hard it shook every bone in the body. The bays just flew past and it all seemed a bit of a blur. In very short time the boat turned into a bay and I thought we were going to slide straight up the beach into the bush beyond, a la James Bond in the Everglades.
    I closed my eyes and when I opened them we had slid to a halt in shallow water. We all waded ashore and boats and gear were unloaded. Dave then proceeded to explain the whys and wherefores of kayaking. Double Dutch to us, but clear as day to Lisa and Rob. We had to stow all gear in a watertight compartment and then decide who was to sit at the back and operate the rudder. Peter was the lucky winner there. The next job was to put on your spray skirt. Now this is a cross between trying to squeeze into Spanx (the girls will know what I mean) whilst keeping your dignity and changing out of a wet swimsuit on the beach under a towel! The finished result was simply delightful, I can't think why it's not all over the Paris Fashion Houses.
    You then have to balance precariously on the edge of said kayak taking care not to overturn it and slide gracefully, skirt and all, into the bucket seat provided. The damn thing rolls all over the place I can tell you. Having got this far, you then have to fasten your 'skirt' to the seat opening, so you are sealed in. By now, my alarm bells were shrieking in both ears. 'What happens if the kayak should roll over Dave?' 'Quite simple Dulcie, just pull the toggle on your skirt up and off, to enable you to slip out of your seat ........underwater. Give it a bit of a tug, it can be quite tricky.' Oh yeah? No chance, I'd have had heart failure or drowned by that stage.
    Training consisted of a couple of paddles up and down. We didn't seem to be getting very far, as it turned out I was paddling forwards and PL thought you had to paddle backwards to go forwards! The rudder wasn't the easiest thing to operate either and the end result was a rolling circle, narrowly avoiding knocking Rob and Lisa (who were sitting so still and patiently,) into the middle of next week. I'm sure by now you are killing yourselves with laughter at the scene in your minds eye, but my state of mind by now was a cross between panic mode and seeing all of my life flashing before me. At this point the alarm cut out and I knew this was not for me. I understood there was to be a gentle paddle out to an Island in the Bay and a nature walk. In truth we were to kayak 6 kms in open sea before lunch. Dave was very sweet and took my refusal to kayak another metre very well (probably relieved as hell). He called another water taxi, the drated kayak was removed and we were transported to another delightful bay to explore and await the others for lunch.
    Decision made, we were actually able to enjoy our surroundings. Abel Tasman is a true wilderness. The only way in or out is by boat or walking and it has beaches like the Caribbean set in these gorgeous bays, with outcrops of rock dotting the horizon. It is very beautiful and we got to appreciate it further after lunch, by walking part of the Coastal path before joining up with the others again to catch the water taxi back to base. Lisa and Rob did admit to us that it was a lot harder than they expected and they are experienced kayakers, so the right decision was undoubtedly made.
    Interestingly, both slightly iffy days in NZ have involved water. Mary you are right and for the future I shall avoid all water borne entertainment like the plague.    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape - New Zealand
    Day 40

    On the Road to Abel Tasman

    December 10, 2013 in New Zealand ⋅ 16 °C

    Kaiteriteri, Tasman, New Zealand
    Tuesday, December 10, 2013

    For once we did not hurry this morning, as we only had a short distance to travel to our Abel Tasman accommodation and we were keen to admire that view for a little longer! We really liked Nelson, admittedly we have only had a glimpse, but it gives a good first impression. The town is named after Admiral Lord Nelson and it's main streets commemorate his Captains at the Battle of Trafalgar, Hardy and Collingwood and some of the battles fought and the ships he commanded. Interesting for a Norfolk girl!
    Chatting to the waitress in the The Boathouse where we had breakfast, we received a couple of good tips to include in the forthcoming journey, which we duly did. The first was to take the scenic coastal loop via Ruby Bay, which was gorgeous as you will see from the photos and the second was to call at Jester's House Cafe at Tasman for lunch. In truth we scarcely needed lunch after an excellent breakfast, but what the heck; the cafe had just won Best Cafe in New Zealand for 2013 and clearly needed our seal of approval! It was a novel entrance to the cafe grounds - fording a small stream- to gain access to the car park. It is a quaint almost olde English style house with loggia and outside tables in a very pretty garden set with various art works. The place was heaving, which was not I suppose a great surprise, but we managed to find a table and perused the menu. It soon became apparent just why it had won such an accolade. We dined on the house smoked fish salad and shared a local cheese platter, adorned with nasturtium flowers and home made bread, biscuits and chutneys. To drink we indulged in homemade lemonade and freshly squeezed pear juice. Mouth watering or what and that is just a sample of a n extremely tempting menu. Everyone was very friendly as we have found without exception here in NZ and the service first class. As a novelty, there are tame eels to feed in the stream running through the property. You can stroke them so we were told, but I'll pass!
    As Peter was paying I started to chat to a couple of ladies who were part of a large group lunching with great hilarity. They reminded me of a flower group and I wasn't far out. They called themselves the Crafty Tarts and met together regularly to learn new crafts , make friends and pass on their knowledge. Like a flower club, but with needle and thread, or such like. All had beautiful hand made name tags and some had made special Christmas pieces for the lunch. One lady had a knitted Christmas hat, at the bottom of which protruded feet and the little chap wandered about the loggia singing Christmas songs. He was charming and if I could've brought him home for Rafe, I would have done so in a flash. However, he was not for sale, understandably, I wouldn't have parted with him either!
    This is very much an arts and crafts area. There are Artist studios of varying types all over the place, open for you to view. I could have easily spent a day doing just that, but for PL it would be something of a yawn, so we cut it short.
    Moving on we passed through Motueka and Kaiteriteri, before finding Split Apple Lodge our B&B for the next 2 nights. What a setting once more. High on a ridge, in a very New Zealand garden, looking one way out over Tasman Bay and the other over Abel Tasman NP. We are the only guests tonight so we have the run of the place. It is a real home from home and Paulette and Bert very hospitable. We have had a light supper at the Park Cafe at Marahua and are contemplating our trip tomorrow - a kayak tour and wildlife walk. Yes I know, we are mad, but in my defence, it seemed like a good idea last February! Wish us luck and our guide even more!    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape - New Zealand
    Day 39

    Over the Hills and far Away to Nelson

    December 9, 2013 in New Zealand ⋅ 19 °C

    Nelson, Nelson, New Zealand
    Monday, December 9, 2013

    The drive from Hanmer Springs to Nelson takes around four hours and for the most part you're not sure where to look, the surroundings are so eye catching. We are fortunate with the time of year, because the flora is at its absolute best. The mountainsides are clothed with broom, foxgloves, tree lupins(yellow this time), vipers bugloss ( brilliant blue flower spikes) a large yellow cowslip type flower, ox eye daisies, wild lycesteria, hebe and so I could go on. Again there were forests of native beech at higher levels and podocarp firs lower down. The mountains are heavily folded and then glaciated, with associated mountain streams and waterfalls, making for some spectacular vistas. Once again we saw very few cars and little sign of habitation, apart from the odd isolated sheep/cattle station. It must be a lonely life. I'm not sure if the view from the windows would make up for the lack of human contact for me. I think I would need a week on and a week off!
    We rolled into Nelson early afternoon, having passed through the small town of Brightwater. It is the birthplace of Sir Ernest Rutherford the first nuclear physicist, who split the atom and as he saw it, gave the world an alternative form of energy. Nuclear bombs were not on his mind at the time! He was born into a family of 12 siblings and spent most of his working life at The Cavendish Laboratories in Cambridge, being awarded a Nobel Prize in Chemistry (not his first discipline). Large oaks from little acorns grow.
    Our place of abode here was something of a surprise. It is called the Penthouse, but we took that euphemistically, erroneously as it turned out. We were shown into this huge apartment with very modern decor over looking the harbour. The walls facing the view are folding glass doors and there is a balcony to hold a party on. I had to make a conscious effort to close my mouth and accept it to the manor born. Sadly, we are only here one night. A week would be glorious. I could spend all day on the wooden chaise with a book and a G&T, drinking it and the view. Yet another cracker, well done Jessica!
    We spent the rest of the afternoon on an upmarket pub crawl. Never let it be said that we have ignored the hop section of our escape. There is a great leaflet explaining the whys and wherefores of the local craft beer microbreweries, of which there are many and Peter had a great time sampling the odd one or three. I was the driver on this occasion and the afternoon passed quite quickly as you might imagine.
    We had supper over the road at Relish, on the waterfront and the food was undeniably scrummy. A very good Brightwater Sauvignon was the accompaniment and I write to you watching the sun set from my balcony erie.
    To close, a wonderful quotation espied today for you to ponder in the wee small hours.
    "Go to heaven for the climate and hell for the company". The inimitable Mark Twain.    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape - New Zealand
    Day 38

    Hot Tubs with a Difference!

    December 8, 2013 in New Zealand

    Hamner Springs, Canterbury, New Zealand
    Sunday, December 8, 2013

    It is a relatively short journey to Hamner Springs from Christchurch and we arrived here at 1pm. It is a lovely drive in on SH 7. Hamner Springs is set at medium altitude surrounded by mountains. They are not high enough to be snow topped, but overlap with great effect. The large village has been a Spa for the past 125 years and the hotel we are staying in has distinct hints of Art Deco grandeur. The whole village has an Alpine feel, probably deliberately engineered, but very attractive none the less. We are only here for one night, but it is small enough to get to grips with quickly. We decided that we had to give the Spa a try this afternoon and were assured it was quiet for the time of year. We set off swimmers under arm and were astounded to be greeted by a seeming wall of humanity in steaming pools as far as the eye could see. We blanched and bolted for the private pools for the first half an hour. They take the shape of a sauna style plunge pool, between 38-41 degrees with a glass wall on to a small garden. We changed with some relief at being alone and plunged into the thermal bath. There was a communal gasp of indrawn breath. It was so hot, we were out again in two shakes and proceeded to takes the sensible option and ease ourselves in a little more warily. By the time we were fully immersed it was time to come out!
    So imagine the scene, two rather self conscious types hovering in the corner wondering which of the twelve different spas to hit next. We did seriously think of a cup of Earl Grey and a cake instead, but knew we would be chickening out! The sulphur pool was hot, but because you are in the open air, it seemed more bearable. The Aqua jet pool was next, just great for the back and so it went on. There were some amazing sights as you can imagine and we ended up feeling quite respectable. After a couple of hours we were suitably relaxed and prune like and felt the long overdue cuppa could be put off no longer. We staggered back to the Heritage Hotel over the road gasping with thirst by now and I am writing to you now in the very comfortable lounge. Christmas is so close and yet there is nothing really evident here. A sad, artificial, white, lit tree stands rather forlornly in the corner and an even sadder Father Christmas is perched on the edge of the reception desk and Bing Crosby is crooning the usual Christmas songs. It seems as if there is the obligatory hint at the Festive Season, but nothing serious. The fact that it is sunny outside, vibrantly green and light until 9.30pm all adds to the sense of unreality. Oh God, here comes Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer, it's time for a large glass of something soothing and I don't mean Horlicks!
    Cheers!

    PS I realise that I owe Matt an apology. Having exchanged emails with Selina, it appears that we visited the wrong Bungee jump in Queenstown. To our horror there are two in the area and Matt hurled himself off the other one - three times the height and therefore even greater courage required. I'm not sure if I'm disappointed not to have seen it!    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape - New Zealand
    Day 37

    Trans Alpine Railway

    December 7, 2013 in New Zealand

    Christchurch, Canterbury, New Zealand
    Saturday, December 7, 2013

    The day began early, accompanied by sheeting rain once more. We had a two hour plus drive to Greymouth and decided to give ourselves plenty of time, what with the weather conditions and of course Saturday traffic. We drove the first 50 miles without seeing another car, so much for the weekend rush! Approaching Greymouth we stopped for a brunch in a small coastal town that had seen its heyday in the gold mining rush of the 1850s. It was stuffed full of grandiose victorian architecture, but appeared to be a ghost town. It was by now 10.45 and I counted 3 people in the Main Street. We were amazed. The rain finally eased as we ran into Greymouth, which is aptly named and I'll say no more. We hit it in the middle of the Christmas Parade. Christmas? What is that?? I'm just relieved we were early, as half the the roads were shut for the parade and the railway station would have unreachable a half an hour later. Yet again we were surrounded by bagpipes and guys in full highland dress.
    We were booked onto the Trans Alpine Express from Greymouth to Christchurch this afternoon. It was a spectacular journey up and over the mountainous divide and through Arthur's Pass. We passed high alpine meadows, deep glacial gorges, mountains galore snow topped, wildlife of all sorts and enough farming country to keep Reg amused for months. The trip takes 4 hours, but is attention grabbing the whole way. The weather improved the minute we were over the Great Divide and by the time we reached Christchurch, the sun was shining once more and the sky was blue.
    An interesting happening late on, which made PLs day. You might know a complaint or two was in the frame. We collected a new hire car at Christchurch station, or tried to, only to find that the manager of the hire car firm had gone to a Christmas party with the keys in his pocket. He then failed to bring them back in person - big mistake, as the company have already asked us to complete a customer service survey at the end of the trip. Should make interesting reading!
    This evening we had a Bon Voyage meal, as Geraldine and Reg depart for their journey home early tomorrow morning. We shall miss you dear friends. What a marvellous five weeks we've had!    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape - New Zealand
    Day 36

    Its Washout Day!

    December 6, 2013 in New Zealand

    Franz Josef Glacier, West Coast, New Zealand
    Friday, December 6, 2013

    You've heard of Groundhog Day, well this is similar, just wetter! I guess it had to happen. Low cloud and rain on and off all day today, so the helicopter flight to the Franz Josef Glacier was cancelled. So disappointing, but it would have been more so, had we not taken the opportunity on Wednesday. I was really looking forward to getting up close and personal with Franz Josef. It's the moustache you know and all that terminal moraine! We hung about during the morning drinking coffee and watching a film of what it would have been like if we had flown!! It did clear for about 2 hrs in the afternoon, where it just drizzled as opposed to hammer down. We took advantage and did a couple of walks, to the terminal face of the glacier ( well, as close as we could get) and to Peter's Pool. We couldn't miss that could we? It is a very small picturesque kettle lake surrounded by rainforest. There were a couple of swallows swooping down to feed on the plentiful insect life and dragonflies galore. All was silent apart from the call of the birds. The bell bird is particularly melodious.
    On the trail back to the car park we met a serious looking cyclist, dressed from head to toe in sky blue Lycra. I was transfixed and didn't get as far as looking at his face! Peter greets him with a cheery 'Hello again!' Both said cyclist and I look bemused and we pass on. PL... 'Did you recognise him?' Me.... 'No, should I?' PL... 'Of course, he's the German guy we met on day 3 of the trip to the Kauri Forest. Surely, you recognised him?!' How is it that if I ask PL to find something like a pair of socks he has no clue, but has instant recall re some itinerant German he has met once in the back of beyond. 'I'm sure he recognised me!' I'm sure he didn't petal, but whatever!
    The walk along the glaciated valley to the terminal face of the glacier was fascinating, well I thought so anyway. We started off in dense rainforest, before emerging on to the classic U shaped valley, that had been carved by the glacier over the centuries. In 1750 Franz Josef was several kilometres longer, filling the valley we are now walking through. You can see clearly the striation marks on the straight valley walls and on the rocks carried along under the huge ice sheet and now abandoned on the floor of the valley as the ice has retreated. A vigorous meltwater stream gurgles along the valley floor and as we progress towards the glacier face the landscape becomes more lunar in quality. Debris is scattered everywhere from enormous boulders to fine ground mounds of moraine. Waterfalls cascade down the sides of the valley due to the rain. We approached as close to the edge of the glacier as we were allowed, which wasn't that close as the terrain is clearly very unstable. The glacier at this elevation is a dirty brown colour as it looses its strength and becomes submerged in moraine. The visibility was obviously very poor due to the low cloud and we could only see flashes of the characteristic blue ice further up the valley, but hey ho, we saw it and at least achieved part of the day's plan.
    The west coast receives over 6 metres of rainfall annually, which is quite mind boggling. The plant life is fantastic for me and I have seen so many plants we struggle to grow at home thriving in their natural habitat. The beautiful astelia grass that I struggle to keep at home, grows like a weed here and is such a sight, Libertia, tree ferns, ferns all all types, grisolinias, phormiums. I could go on and on, but won't, you'll drop off! I'll just say that this is my type of jungle, festooned so often in every type of moss. It is a magical natural wonderland.    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape - New Zealand
    Day 35

    A Glacial Place

    December 5, 2013 in New Zealand

    Franz Josef Glacier, West Coast, New Zealand
    Thursday, December 5, 2013

    Moving day is always bitter sweet, leaving something we have come to love in such a short time and the anticipation of something new on the horizon. However, that is the name of the game on this trip so we set off towards the West Coast in bright sunshine. We followed the beautiful Lake Wanaka for some distance. The water was so clear and still, you could see the reflection of mountains and sky in the surface. Lake Hawea followed and we made our way inexorably towards the dramatic Haast Pass, which takes one over the divide and on to the West Coast. It was rainforest all the way, beautiful, but quite oppressive after 200 kms. We stopped at Bruce Bay which was stunning. Great rollers crashing on to the beach, fringed with huge phormiums and a graveyard full of driftwood scattered all along the beach. I was mesmerised. It was a flower arrangers dream. A pile of stones and small pieces of ocean bleached wood had been piled on the edge of the beach. Visitors had inscribed their names and a message on the individual pieces. It was actually quite moving to read some of them. One almost felt as if one was peering uninvited into a discarded letter.
    The road wound slowly on into the Westland National Park and the mountains rose higher all around, cloud thickened and a little rain started to fall. There is scant settlement and even with modern roads it must be an isolating life. However, you are surrounded by immense natural beauty, so plentiful, it is difficult to know where to look next, which must be a constant source of joy. We trundled through the small village serving Fox glacier, stopping briefly, but knowing we needed to press on to Franz Josef, our home for the next two nights. It is slightly larger than its Fox cousin, but similarly serves it's famous glacier that so many people come to gaze on. We checked in to the Helicopter Line office and confirmed our planned trip for tomorrow, before finding our hotel and a cup of tea, though not necessarily in that order. Supper was taken at Annie Mays, within walking distance and we sat watching the constantly changing cloudscape over the peaks. The pattern was never the same at any one minute. It came on to rain once more and the most beautiful double rainbow appeared, so vivid, it had everyone running outside exclaiming in wonder. I am so looking forward to tomorrow and will just have to hope for half decent weather. Cross your fingers for us!    Read more

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