Greek Odyssey

April 2024
An open-ended adventure by SailingSealaVie Read more
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  • Day 1

    Travel days

    April 9 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We arrived in Athens after 2 flights and 1 crazy passenger in front of us who expected to have a row to herself until the flt. attendant asked if she'd bought all 3 seats - no; then she threatened Bob and pummeled his seat because his knees touched her seat back. Bob spoke to the flt. attendant who thankfully moved her! Whew! We wandered Athens with a hike/walk up to a church then over to the Acropolis Museum to look at more ancient rocks and statues. The weather is fabulous with a clear blue sky, 25C and windy. We hired a car and drove from Athens to Preveza on fabulous highways but alot of tolls. Lovely scenery with scrubby mountains, lush forests, farms, orchards, lakes and the blue Mediterranean. The boat has been on land all winter and she is a bit dirty but it's lovely being aboard in the sun and listening to all the whistling, clanging, howling. A few days to get organized. Stay tuned...Read more

  • Day 3

    So long, farewell...

    April 11 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 45 °C

    After deciding 2024 would be our last year sailing in the Mediterranean, we have accepted an offer and sold Sea la Vie. We had hoped to sail again but now we are sorting and packing our belongings. It's incredible the amount of stuff we have squirreled away on 37 feet!
    Our plan now is to drive around the Peloponnese, ferry hop to the islands, perhaps take a jaunt to Istanbul and maybe rent a boat for a week or so. It will be a different sort of adventure but I'm sure full of beauty, challenges, education, frustrations, enlightenment, joy, and perhaps, with fewer moments of terror, although Bob's driving of a standard car is somewhat rusty and does not eliminate the threat of running aground!!
    Ex bono in melius (from good to better).
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  • Day 3

    Archeological sites

    April 11 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We are still living on the boat which is on land in the marina. We are amidst the millions of dollars worth of boats of all sizes, shapes, and styles. There are a number of people working on their boats including the Australian couple we met last year in Sarande! Behind us is a South African couple. Apparently only a fraction of the boats will actually get put in the water!
    I enjoy being on the boat even though we have to climb up and down a ladder to use the facilities. The birds sing to us morning and night. There's even one making a nest in the boom of a neighbour's boat! Herons fly overhead. The sunrises and sunsets are lovely and the weather is beautiful . We'll stay on-board until all is finalized. In the meantime, we're driving around the area visiting historical and archeological sites. The countryside varies from craggy scrubby mountains to lush farmlands, groves of olive trees, lemon trees, wetland marshes, rocky gorges and the blue Mediterranean.
    Even though Bob is no longer a Captain of this ship, he still putters around, climbs down the "hole" and checks the sails. It was to my detriment when he swung the boom over as I climbed up the ladder and CRACK - my head! I won't miss the bumps, lumps and brain bruises (as Nick calls them)!In spite of my lumpy head, we set off to visit Nicopolis, a city founded in 29 BC by Octavian in commemoration of his victory in 31 BC over Antony and Cleopatra at the Battle of Actium. We walked amongst the ruins and marveled at the remains. The theatre was next but it could only be viewed behind a fence and scaffolding. Searching for a Roman villa sent us on a wild goose chase and we ended the search after driving kms. out of our way. Next we drove up the mountain along the rocky gorge to the Roman aqueduct. There was a lovely park and stream where we startled a frog into a wild leap into the fast current, never to be seen again! We finished our day with dinner in Preveza on the boardwalk then back to the boat. A lovely sunset ended the day.
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  • Day 4

    Lefkada sights

    April 12 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    After our coffee and breakfast in the cockpit listening to the marina waking up: birds chirping and flapping, people chatting, and tools whirring, we set off towards Lefkada. We had sailed there last year. We took the old road through the country and up, up then down along the salt marsh where we saw a flock of flamingos so Bob quickly turned off on a dirt path. We walked across a wooden bridge to the outer beach then drove back onto the main road and across the lift bridge we'd had to wait for last year, twice! Easy peasy this year! We drove the sea side around to the town then parked and got our bikes out and rode through and around the Levkas. There is a massive marina and there are lovely pedestrian streets and alleys, churches, shops and restaurants. After lunch, we set off down the coast along the channel we'd cruised last year. Dipped my toes then drove to the other side of the island driving up into the mountains and down to the fabulous Pefkoulia beach. The roads are full of S bends and even sharp switchbacks with not much turning room, especially with oncoming traffic. There are lots of rock falls with either netting or barriers at the bottom of the cliffs but still somewhat alarming. The drivers are fast but not crazy and they are patient with the slower pokes! Bob has done very well with the standard shift even on the tight mountain corners. I'm not quite as white knuckled as last year in the mountains of Albania when Bob didn't know how to reverse!
    We got back to the marina in time for thé sunset. A lovely day seeing the "inside" of Levkada.
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  • Day 6

    Mountains & beaches

    April 14 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    On Sat., we decided to go back to Levkada to explore the mountain villages. Our car has a navigation system but trying to input destinations has caused a few choice words 🤬both at the computer and each other! Sailing navigation is easier with the whole sea, not narrow, winding roads and lanes leading to dead ends requiring multiple turns and reversals! 😬 Of course docking Sea la Vie has also had its challenges!
    The scenery as we went up, and up some more, was gorgeous with fertile valleys below and forested mountainsides. Fortunately, there isn't a lot of traffic so we can go at a comfortable speed on these zigzag roads. At least they are paved, unlike our Albanian experience! After poking through traditional villages, we went down to Nydri and revisited Tranquil Bay from the land side with a walk along to the church at the point. It's where we anchored twice during the thunderstorm ⛈ last Oct.!
    On the way back to Levkada town, we stopped at Nikiana Beach and I had my first swim! The water was lovely with a slight refreshing bite as the air temp. is averaging 30C!
    The sailing season hasn't started so we are finding that most shops and restaurants are still closed from last Nov. and there are very few tourists. The restaurants that are open are very welcoming, accommodating, and friendly. When we returned to the same restaurant in Preveza, the server remembered us and brought us tzatziki, olives and a 2nd glass of wine "on the house"!
    Yesterday (Sunday) was a slower day as we were sorting luggage and trying to gather info on the airline cost of our baggage. 🤯 We are also planning what to do with luggage as we traipse around Greece and Turkey.
    We went into Preveza and traveled along the sea stopping at lovely beaches. We talked to some lovely families with young children who were playing in the waves and building trenches and castles. A 4 yr. old from Poland and I showed each other the beautiful rocks we'd found and as we walked away, he ran after us to give me his rock. 🥰
    Back to our beach, had a swim and a doze on the sand then wandered along the promenade for dinner. Busier here in Preveza but still fairly quiet. A talk with the kids ended our lovely day.
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  • Day 7

    Preveza, Vonitsa and beach cows...!

    April 15 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Who knew cows go to the beach too! We'd seen the herd on the country road near the marina but woke up and heard the herd and wouldn't have been surprised to see them under our boat! We got on our bikes to ride around the 3 marinas here to look at the millions (billion?) of $$ in yachts and equipment. Saw a few boats that we'd seen in our travels last Oct. then to the beach outside our fence and there were the cows cooling their hooves! Watch out for the the cow patties on the sand!
    We decided to take a short drive down the south side of the Ambracian Gulf to Vonitsa. We had to take a detour after coming upon the aftermath of a horrific car-motorcyle crash. We went to the beach to clear our heads and to give the authorities time. We later proceeded along the rolling country roads. We wandered among the ruins of Vonitsa Castle and to the waterfront where we saw the Aussies who were docked there! They invited us aboard their catamaran and we spent time yakking. We joked about who was following (stalking?) who! After leaving them, we drove along the waterfront to Church island, crossed the pedestrian bridge and wandered a path around the island amongst the pine forest. A beautiful sunset to end the day and a time to reflect how fortunate we are.
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  • Day 9

    Marshes and monuments

    April 17 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After a day of not much doing except watching a NATO surveillance plane circling and flying over us all day, we decided on Wed. to take a trip to the Amvrakikos Wetlands past Preveza. Rather than take the longer route towards the Aqueduct, we turned off to a side road which again lead us to the Roman Villa. We did see the ancient olive press and baths but the Villa remains elusive! We followed some cows but it seems they led us astray so Bob maneuvered a narrow turnaround and we continued on our way. The gravel road along the shore seemed to get narrower and closer to the water, and was strewn with fallen rocks from the cliff along side us. I saw a few water fowl but not the pelicans I was hoping to see. We stopped at the Monastery of Pania Rhodia and from there the road was paved and 2 lane. We passed another flock of flamingos and once we were in the small town saw a stork/heron? sitting on a huge nest atop a pole! Very regal with a multitude of small birds flocking in and around the nest. The wetlands were beautiful but disappointing in its lack of birds.
    I've resorted to using Google maps on my phone rather than the 🤬 NAV in the car so we were able to find the route to the Monument of Zalongo this time. It is up the mountains and atop a cliff. It commemmorates the mass suicide of women and children in 1803 in order to be free of Ottoman ruler, Ali Pasha, whose house we saw at Vonitsa Castle. We climbed the 410 steps up the cliff to see the Monument, a small church and the gorgeous view. It's called the Dance of Zalongo because they danced before throwing themselves off the cliff. 😭🤯
    We stopped in Preveza for a walk along the harbourfront and a late lunch/early dinner at a quiet but lovely place with singing birds, hanging baskets, and cats. When the plane again flew overhead, the restaurant owners advised it was practicing and that there is a NATO base nearby. Who knew?!
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  • Day 11

    Final days on Sea la Vie 🥰🙂😥

    April 19 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Thursday was spent relaxing on the boat watching our neighbours busily painting, drilling, fixing! Ah, the life of a boat owner! We technically were still owners but the deal was not yet sealed with money in the bank so we relaxed. We had some rain later but then it blew off in time for a walk to the family restaurant where we were rewarded again with another dessert! More rain in the night.

    Morning coffee in the cockpit with a sunny sky and we decided to make a 2nd attempt at seeing pelicans in the Wetlands but at a closer area. We had to leave the car after attempting a gravel lane full of potholes, mud and lakes after the rain so we wandered down on foot crossing into private property. A fellow came out and I showed him where we wanted to go. His English was limited and he initially showed us the path then he offered to take us in his dinghy! We hopped in and he motored towards the pelicans which took flight as we neared. He told us there are huge snakes🐍 on the little islands and the water is only about 2 metres deep. After motoring around a short while, he dropped us at a bridge and we walked back along the path. What kindness and generosity!
    We drove back to Preveza and bumped into the sales broker. Bob advised if the $ was not in the bank, the deal could be off or we'd extend it with penalties. He seemed convinced the money would come and sure enough, when we got back to the boat mid afternoon, the $ was in the bank. It started to pour - a good day to not have a boat! The broker came and we sealed the deal. 🙂😥 He said Bob should be a negotiator!
    It continued to pour for a number of hours with lightning⛈ too. My concern was needing the bathroom but not wanting to go down the ladder in the pouring rain! Eventually the rain stopped but we now had a lake under us and at the foot of the ladder! Bob wondered if we'd be floating soon! He was able to go on the boat beside us and move the ladder to higher ground. What a relief! I was determined not to have to use it in the night!
    It was cool enough that we turned the heater on only to have the electricity conk out due to the rain. So our last night on the boat was cozy under extra blankets and also a reminder of other challenging (hail🌨, rain🌧, wind🌬💨, waves🌊, rocking, swinging, cold🥶 ) nights! Ah, the joys of sailing! I will/won't miss it!
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  • Day 12

    After Sea la Vie...

    April 20 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    When we packed up and left Sea la Vie, it was a glorious blue sky, sunshiny morning with a few scattered tears. We left most of our belongings in storage at the marina until we fly home and drove to Pyrgos. We took country and coastal roads, twisting and turning with gorgeous views of mountains, turquoise water, islands, small villages festooned with gorgeous flowers, and a few road hazards: goats coming off the rocky cliffs to cross the road and a flock of sheep stampeding toward us! Instead of driving over the magnificent bridge between Rio & Patras, we took the ferry! A short ferry trip, got a bit lost and then to Pyrgos. Nothing special there except a good pizza dinner and it's close to Ancient Olympia, the site of the original Olympic Games.Read more

  • Day 13

    Ancient Olympia to Kalamata/Mani

    April 21 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Started the morning at our less than adequate hotel with exploding coffee! Not a good start but I mopped up and we cleared out, picked up pastries and coffee and drove the short distance to Ancient Olympia. The town is beautiful with small hotels, cafes and shops- definitely a tourist spot, and tour buses! We drove up and around twisty roads only to come down again to the archeological site. Fantastic remains of the area for javelin, discus, baths, Temple for Zeus, rooms, pool and the gate to the runners area. The first race was only 200m. and gradually it was extended. People sat on the grass hillside except officials, and dignitaries, of course. The museum was wonderful with statues and artifacts. After about 4 hours it was time for lunch! We ate at a café, wandered along the main street then set off for Kalamata along the coast and inland over the mountains. The roads are paved, some better than others, 2 lanes barely, and a lot of twists, turns and switchbacks. Bob has done an amazing job of driving a stick shift on these roads while I white knuckle navigate advising when sharp, twisty turns are coming, in some areas, one after the other! We came into Kalamata and decided we'd go a little bit down the Mani Peninsula and stopped at a lovely place on the sea. The welcoming man on reception showed me a studio-big room with kitchen, (empty) pool and deck, view to the sea and best of all, hot water!
    The weather seemed to be changing with what appeared to be fog or haze...the Sirocco winds were coming!
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