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  • Day 10

    Home Sweet Home

    August 11, 2022 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I have loved my 10 days on this whistle-stop tour of the Balkans area. In some ways it was a lot to pack into one trip, and there were times when I wished I could stop and stay a bit longer in one place. However, the plan was to do a quick ‘recce’, with a view to deciding which places I would like to return to. I have enjoyed a fabulous experience of visiting areas with a dark and troubled past, and seeing how they have emerged from oppressive Communist regimes to more open, welcoming places.

    If you are thinking of travelling to this fascinating and beautiful area, I would certainly encourage you to do so, I have listed a few things which hopefully might be of assistance to you in planning your trip:

    In spite of preconceived notions, I found the Balkans area to be very safe and open to visitors. Although travelling alone, I never felt threatened or intimidated - indeed I felt completely safe throughout. I found it useful to have a detailed plan worked out, to include transport, accommodation details etc, and was pleased when this all actually worked out in practice. With hindsight, I might not have chosen to travel in August as it was very hot, and the main tourist areas were very busy.

    Bus and train stations are rarely in the city centre - they are often quite a distance out and will require a local bus / taxi to get to the centre. It is handy to have small amounts of the local currency for transport / toilets etc. Some places will accept Euros but many won’t. Most of the countries I visited had their own currency which was frustrating having to change money regularly. It’s good to take a pre paid debit card to avoid foreign currency transaction fees. When withdrawing cash however, most ATMs make a service charge. I understand some banks don’t, but I’ve yet to find one.

    Locals were generally friendly and helpful - if generally quite dour looking. Fellow travellers were eager to chat and share knowledge and information about the best places to go. One Swedish guy let me access his personal hotspot so I could access the internet to download a bus ticket. Others looked out for fellow passengers who were late back on a bus after a break, and who otherwise could have been left behind.

    I found that prices were generally cheaper, often considerably, than other more popular countries / resorts.

    All hotels will let you leave luggage free of charge if you are not travelling until later in the day. Most bus / train stations have left luggage places available for a small fee. Otherwise there are left luggage facilities in most city centres and tourist resorts.

    A good guide book is essential - I found Lonely Planet’s Western Balkans book to be invaluable, and it came with an electronic version which I could access via my phone / iPad.

    Most of the countries I visited were not in the EU and so I was unable to use my mobile as I would at home. I did access an amount of calls/ data for a fixed daily fee, but this didn’t last long, and I tried to use Wi-Fi wherever possible. All hotels and most restaurants and cafés have free Wi-Fi, so it was worth buying a coffee for unlimited free access to the internet.

    Toilet facilities on trains and in bus stations left a lot to be desired. Best to bring your own supply of tissues / wipes / hand gel. Even in some good restaurants and certain airports the standard of facilities was lower than we might be used to.
    It pays to be patient - buses and trains rarely run on time, and service in restaurants can be slow, but there’s no point in getting annoyed or frustrated. Just chill and enjoy the actual experience of travel - I’m still buzzing!
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  • Day 10

    Tirana - Milan - London - Glasgow

    August 11, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Not the most direct way home, but by far the cheapest. Left Tirana at 6.25am for 1.5 hour WizzAir flight to Milan (Bergamo). Leaving here at 10.45 on EasyJet flight for London (Gatwick), before hopefully catching the 13,50 EasyJet to Glasgow arriving at 15.25 - that’s the plan. First time flying with WizzAir and very impressed, as I was with Air Serbia.Read more

  • Day 10

    Tirana, Albania

    August 11, 2022 in Albania ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Tirana, Albania

    For today’s trip I headed for my final Balkan country and capital city - Tirana in Albania. I was pleasantly surprised at the comfortable coach provided for this 4.5 hour journey - plenty of seats, good air conditioning and regular stops. I noticed on the way out we were travelling on George W Bush street (yesterday it was Bill Klinton - with a K - boulevard in Pristina. Again the scenery was lovely, if not quite as dramatic as other trips I have been on.

    I made my way to Tirana city centre - and another Skanderbeg Square, complete with statue on horseback of the great hero. This city seems much more lively and interesting than either Podgorica (Montenegro) or Pristina (Kosovo). It appears to have shaken off its former communist dreariness, and reinvented itself as a young, colourful, modern capital city, with a lively café culture and an exciting buzz. It looks like they have a good arts scene, and plenty of interesting museums, many dedicated to the darker side of its communist past. I only had time to visit one, and chose Bunk Art 2 - a top secret ex nuclear bunker built in the 1980s to shelter elite police and ministry staff in the event of a nuclear attack. It shows how Communist-era police persecuted the regime’s opponents. Some of the displays were quite distressing, and certain rooms were marked as unsuitable for children, but an interesting and thought provoking experience. Frightening however that so much of this happened in the relatively recent past.

    I had my evening meal in another recommended restaurant. The (unsmiling) waitress told me they had no menu, but that I would be served a traditional Albanian dinner. I am not sure what it all was, but it included a number of dishes comprising of a variety of elements - local cheeses, home made bread, pomegranate, stuffed pastries and slow cooked lamb on the bone - all very tasty but too much to finish.

    I took a taxi to the Veraci hotel next to the airport as I had an early start the next morning. Alarm set for 3.45am - wish me luck!
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  • Day 8

    Kosovo

    August 9, 2022 in Kosovo ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Pristina, Kosovo

    My journey from North Macedonia to Kosovo was on a hot, busy minibus with a group consisting largely of Kosovan workers. I was seated across from two burly construction workers who insisted on striking up a conversation, albeit in German - the only common language we could just about all understand (although my Higher German seemed a long way off!). The main guy was clearly in celebratory mood, and insisted on me joining him in a glass of ‘schnapps’. Me politely declining his offer was pointless, and soon I was joining half the passengers in a generous serving of the powerful rekija (the effects of which from my lunchtime imbibing were only just wearing off!). I thought the two quiet young guys in front were from the USA, but they too were Kosovan, but possessing the usual perfect American accent common in young folk from these parts, brought up with social media. They too joined the party, asking me the familiar questions: ‘Glasgow Rangers or Celtic?‘ My interest in lacrosse seemed to fail to impress them, but they were very helping in providing advice about their small country. ‘But why are you visiting Kosovo?’ they enquired. I wondered that too, as the first image I saw after crossing through Border Control was a car engulfed in fire at the side of the road. On arrival at Pristina Bus Station, my construction friends tried to persuade me to join them for a ‘bier’ but, fearing the worst, I politely declined and headed for my hotel - the 4Llulla in the city centre.

    Kosovo only gained its independence in 2008 and, although it has been recognised by many countries, there are still many which don’t, including Serbia. Indeed I was told by several fellow travellers that you would be refused entry to Serbia if you tried to enter from Kosovo, (which they believe is still part of their country), so I am relieved I didn’t do it that way around. I also heard that there had been some recent trouble in Kosovo, but after checking the relevant travel advice, this seems to have been restricted to the north of the country, and the remainder generally was considered safe for travel.

    As Europe’s newest capital city, Pristina underwhelms somewhat compared to other cities I have visited on this trip. There are no obvious major attractions, but it was interesting to walk around nonetheless. My small hotel was located next to the main Skanderberg Square. There was some of kind of international folk dancing competition outside the theatre as I arrived, and I thought the beautiful costumes would look great in a Runway pantomime. I had a lovely traditional dinner at the recommended Liburnia restaurant - roasted peppers in a cream sauce, followed by lamb and potatoes cooked the oven - tasty 😋. I topped up my alcohol level with a half litre of the local lager beer.

    This morning I did a walk around the city centre. Apart from the main pedestrianised street, it was very busy with traffic, fairly littered, lots of graffiti, grass verges, street furniture and steps poorly maintained, and grey, overcast weather - remind you of anywhere? Although Pristina was interesting to visit, it would not be on the top of my list to return to. They say that if you have limited time in Kosovo then Prizren with its attractive Old Town is the place to go. But I think I’ll have to leave that visit for another trip
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  • Day 8

    Skopje, North Macedonia

    August 9, 2022 in North Macedonia ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Skopje, North Macedonia

    My short one hour flight from Belgrade, Serbia to Skopje, North Macedonia with Air Serbia was very pleasant and we were issued with a snack of a bottle of water and a pack of biscuits. There were not many passengers, and we were flown on a small, propellor plane ATR 72 - 200. The air hostess was very slim, glamorous and made up, like she had stepped out of the 60s. I made my way to Skopje centre and checked into the pirate ship lookalike - Hotel Senigallia. The fact that a fake boat based on a 17th century Danish sailing ship should be on this river between two low bridges didn’t make sense, but then again little makes sense here. I felt I was back on the Waverley!

    The accommodation itself was actually very good - a large en-suite cabin / bedroom with (fake) antique furniture was very comfortable and had good air conditioning and Wi-Fi. I was given the warmest of welcomes by the friendly receptionist - ‘welcome aboard!’ she announced ‘it’s a pleasure to have you on the vessel’. There then followed a bizarre conversation: ‘you have a wart, John?’ she enquired. I said sorry, I don’t have a wart, and my name is not John. ‘But I am trying to save the ‘erbs and I need to know if you have wart, John?’ Glancing at her computer screen, I noticed she was studying a website about herbs eg thyme, basil etc. ‘Ah!’ I said, ‘Maybe you mean St John’s wort? Her face lit up ‘that’s what I say, you have wart, John in your country?’. I was very pleased with my knowledge of herbs, but declined her offer to join her herb society. ‘But we must save the ‘erbs’ she pleaded. I smiled in agreement and fled to the safety of my cabin.

    That evening I enjoyed a walk round the nearby Ćaršica (Old Town) and ate in one of the many street cafés, dining on the standard fare of kebab-type sausages, bread, raw onions and peppers, with a highly recommended side dish of baked haricot beans in a tomato sauce. It’ll be windy in the old town tonight!

    After a comfortable sleep on board, I joined another city walking tour and had a great guide - Mihar. Skopje is the strangest of capital city centres. It is surrounded by what looks like a grand set design for an ancient civilisation - huge neo-classical buildings, massive monuments featuring heroes, warriors and lions, and dozens of statues everywhere. It is all as a result of a project called Skopje 2014, when the Prime Minister lavished millions of this poor country’s resources in a massively corrupt programme. Our guide likened the change which had occurred in Skopje over the past 10 years to ‘Disneyland for adults’ or ‘Las Vegas on steroids’. Many of the buildings are fake and there is a slightly unreal feel to it all.

    Our 4 hour walking tour included a lengthy refreshment break when we were plied with local beer and rakija (grape brandy). By the end of the tour we were all great friends! An interesting and very unusual capital city to visit.
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  • Day 7

    Belgrade

    August 8, 2022 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Belgrade

    After another early morning visit to the spa, I enjoyed a delicious breakfast - the best to date on this trip.

    Regrettably I only had a short time in Belgrade - Serbia’s capital, situated at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers. I had visited the city before and had spent some time exploring it, so it was just a flying visit this time. Belgrade can initially impress as a rather forbidding city, but you can’t help but marvel at its great Soviet monoliths and art nouveau masterpieces. The hotel Mockba / Moskva / Moscow is an art nouveau icon dating from 1908. It was formerly the Rossiya Palace, and acted as the Gestapo headquarters during World War 2. Its famous residents have included Alfred Hitchcock, Albert Einstein, Novak Djokovic, Frank Sinatra, Tom Hanks, Alain Delon, Audrey Hepburn and Robert Fyfe.

    I enjoyed a morning walk around Belgrade centre, taking in Republic Square, the Serbian Parliament and Topcider Gardens. I then made my way to the Nikola Tesla airport to catch the Air Serbia flight to my next destination - Skopje, North Macedonia.
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  • Day 7

    Montenegro to Serbia Train Trip

    August 8, 2022 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    THE BAR - BELGRADE TRAIN TRIP

    After a good night’s sleep and a delicious breakfast at the Hotel Agape, Bar (not a burek or cevapi in sight!) Danilo called me a taxi, carried my luggage, and bid me a very pleasant trip. He obviously did not train at the Yugoslavian School of Hospitality.

    The Bar - Belgrade train journey is described as one of the most scenic in Europe, and was one of the highlights of the trip which I had been looking forward to. It’s a marvel of engineering with 254 tunnels and 435 bridges. Construction started in the 1950s but was only completed in 1976, and was opened by President Tito himself.

    My single ticket to cover the length of this marathon 11.5 hour journey cost only 21 Euros - a real bargain. Bar station has one café which only sold drinks. When I expressed surprise that there was no buffet car on board, the proprietrix responded ‘well, you should be prepared!’ Thank goodness for the doggy bag of Wiener (pork) schnitzel and the free water I brought from the hotel.

    As is sadly common in many East European trains, the train itself was covered in graffiti - no Orient Express this! As I said there were no catering facilities on board, and the toilets left a lot to be desired. Safe to say, I was glad I had brought my own supply of wet wipes and hand sanitizer! For some reason since COVID, this international train has been reduced to 3 carriages, which made little sense as it was packed. To complicate matters, the website recommended ignoring seat reservations and sitting anywhere. This caused quite a few heated arguments between local folk and backpackers, with much in the way of high raised voices and even higher raised arms.

    However, we were here for the journey - and what a spectacular one it was! Although an older train, the seating was plush and comfortable, and I wisely followed the advice and sat on the left hand side to enjoy the best views. After following the Adriatic coast on leaving Bar, the train soon moved inland, skirting Lake Skadar. Then a gradual climb into the mountains, higher and higher and crossing over what was, until recently, the highest railway bridge in Europe. Plunging into numerous tunnels of varying lengths at such great heights, you couldn’t help but wonder how the railway came to be built. After a while, the rugged bare mountains gave way to rolling tree-covered hills, and then green valleys dotted with small homesteads. There is an excellent 10 minute video on YouTube with the highlights of this wonderful train trip for anyone who is interested (warning, there is a bit when the train hits and kills a horse! 😞 ).

    Amazingly the train arrived at Belgrade’s Centar Station only 10 minutes late after a fantastic 11.5 hour long trip. I took a taxi to my favourite hotel in Belgrade - The Mockba (Moscow). I was in time to enjoy the last hour in the beautiful Wellness Spa, and had the place all to myself - a wonderful way to soak and relax after one of the most memorable train journeys I have been on.
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  • Day 6

    Montenego - Kotor / Bar

    August 7, 2022 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Satisfied that I had exhausted the touristic potential of the capital, I felt it was time to escape Podgorica to another part of Montenegro. The Hotel Kerber had been fine in that old fashioned Yugoslavian way, right down to the unsmiling staff, but it was time to move on. On checking out, I commented on the lack of electricity the night before, and the receptionist grimaced and shrugged and said: ‘Well, that happens’. Have a nice day to you too, Miss!

    I decided to take the morning bus on the two hour trip to the Montenegrin coast and the resort of Kotor. Once again the scenery was amazing as we climbed high into the mountains, before descending into the Bay of Kotor with fabulous views of the resort area, including the Old Town. Apparently it’s been described as southern Europe’s most spectacular fjord. I dumped my luggage at the Garderoba and headed straight to the beach. At last I was able to cool off from the searing heat in the beautiful waters of the Adriatic Sea. I could have stayed in the sea all day. So this why so many folk flock to Montenegro! The beaches were certainly packed with sun-worshippers from all over Europe. I enjoyed a tasty Chinese lunch overlooking the Bay, before exploring the very pretty, if touristy, Old Town. Stray cats basked in the sun, and I was sorry not to have time to visit the Cats Museum, home to all things feline, in tribute to the moggies who have been part of this area since its seafaring days.

    Time to be on the move again, and I caught the (typically late) afternoon bus to Bar. The trip down the Adriatic coast was beautiful, allowing glimpses of various resorts, including Sven Stefan - a fortified island now part of the luxurious Aman resort, and apparently Montenegro’s most photographed site. I’m afraid my photo from a busy, bumpy bus does not do it justice.

    Tonight I was staying at a more upmarket hotel - the 4 star Agape Hotel in Bar town centre. It was pure luxury to get out of the heat, shower and change, and enjoy the surroundings of this newly opened hotel. Danilo, the friendly young man on reception suggested a walking route round the town and recommended a good restaurant for dinner. Bar is really a Port Town where you can catch the Bar - Bari ferry (Montenegro to Italy). It seems a bit more down-at-heel than some of the other resorts in the area, but still possesses a lengthy, busy city beach with the usual assortment of bars and cafés. Indeed a rock concert, Summer Under The Stars, was on the night I visited. Some improvements have been made in the town centre such as dancing water fountains, which delighted the kids. The church of St Jovan Vladimir looked stunning, with the evening sunshine reflecting off its (real gold) domes. If you like brutalist architecture (which I do!) Robna Kuca mall was a great example of a concrete shopping area, and Danilo’s recommendation of the Marnar (Seaman) restaurant was a good one. Lovely surroundings and ample portions made this an obvious family favourite place to eat. My Wiener Schnitzel was very tasty though huge (and suspicially more like pork than veal). A doggie bag was in order for tomorrow’s long journey!
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  • Day 4

    Montenegro - Podgerica

    August 5, 2022 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    I was up early to make sure I made it to the bus station on time for the next section of my trip, which involved me missing my breakfast at Hotel Lula (no great loss there). Sarajevo East bus station is not the most accessible transport hub, and involved me taking a trolley bus on a 30 minute journey to the suburbs. I don’t think I’ve been on a trolley bus since the mid-sixties when they were still running in Glasgow. My granny used to call them ‘the silent death’ because, unlike the clanking trams, you couldn’t hear them coming.

    Although I had booked my bus ticket online, I was told on arrival at the bus station that I had also to buy a platform ticket from the booking office (for the ‘privilege’ of using the bus station), and pay to store my case on the bus. Although very small amounts (about a Euro each), this seems common practice in this part of the world. Two fellow passengers objected to the luggage charge, and were adamant their rather large backpacks would fit under their seats on the bus which, with much pushing and shoving, they eventually did.

    We were now off on a marathon 6.5 hour bus journey from Sarajevo to Podgorica, capital city of Montenegro 🇲🇪 . It actually turned out to be a very pleasant trip with only 6 passengers on a 20 seater coach, and a couple of comfort breaks en route. The scenery throughout was outstanding - beautiful tree covered mountains, deep canyons and alpine valleys. The two border checks leaving Bosnia and Hercegovina and entering Montenegro were fairly swift, and the scenery became even more majestic as we skirted the Durmitor National Park with its glittering glacial lakes and limestone peaks. Views of the impossibly green River Piva were breathtaking, as our coach sped round bends and through mountain tunnels.

    After this big build up, Podgorica itself came as a bit of a let down. It was very small scale for a capital city, and didn’t have the buzz of restaurants / bars / cafés etc I had become used to. It had no major attractions to speak of, and the Old Town bore no resemblance to those of Dubrovnik or Sarajevo. Although it was Friday night there were few folk about and the grey soviet style blocks did little to soften the atmosphere. It was like a wet weekend in Paisley! In fairness there are a few lovely park areas and a new Millennium Bridge, and the city itself is quite small with only 200,000 residents. Ah well, early to bed methinks, which is just as well as the electricity has gone off and whole hotel has been plunged into darkness!
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