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A 52-day adventure by Linda Read more
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  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 17

    Last Full Day in Porto

    April 16, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    It was finally hot. So what did we do? We walked all the way down to the water’s edge, all the way back up on the other side of the bridge to do an errand, down again to visit the Port place and then across the bridge again to climb up to our place. It is comical. We looked longingly up the rails to see that the funicular wasn’t running. There were trams, buses and trolley cars - all requiring a climb up or down. Porto people are tough.

    First stop was the Crystal Palace Garden that housed a small museum with incredible items including gorgeous textiles, furniture and shells. Of course, we took impossibly narrow avenues and stairs to get there. We were rewarded with some spectacular views of the bridge and personal gardens squeezed into plots next to ancient houses.

    There were a zillion tourists out along the river soaking up the warm/hot sun. We stopped in to the Museum of Port and watched this super interesting movie about the men in the 1930’s or 40’s who moved the port barrels from the grape-growing area down the Douro river. The currents getting the boats back up river were intense. It showed just how much physical labour was put into getting this precious cargo to the storage areas in Porto.

    Lennart and Kirsten don’t really like port and neither does Sheryl. I like it if it is a good port. Sheryl scoped out the best place to go, and I bought a delicious half bottle of 20 year old white wine port, and we purchased a 10 year old red wine port to taste back at the AirBnB. I fear I am the only one who will enjoy it…

    On the way back home, Sheryl and I dipped into the photography museum. There was a small but painful exhibit of photographs from the war in Ukraine. Heartbreaking. I couldn’t look directly at some of the images as they were of both murdered civilians and dead Russian soldiers left behind by Russian troops. The photos were housed in what looked like an old prison with bars on the windows and hefty iron gates.

    I’m a little sad to say that we were all too tired to figure out dinner, so I used UberEats for the first time. Wow. That is dangerously easy to use.

    Tomorrow we head out of town in a rental car to visit the northern edge of Portugal. I hope the driving is not as complicated as the hill climbing.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 18

    São Paio Jolda and Ponte de Lima

    April 17, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    There is a pool at the place we are staying for next four nights!!!!! After we arrived we choose one of the luxurious bedrooms, unpacked, and took a very, very cold dip in the pool. The place is a working farm with flowers, onions, garlic, beans, chickens, and grapes for wine. Our host gave us two of his homemade wines - one red and one white to try. Oh boy!

    We started our day heading north in our rental car bidding farewell to Porto. While Porto is beautiful and has much to offer, it was outshone by both Coimbra and Lisbon. On the drive up, we stopped for lunch in Ponte de Lima which boasts being the oldest town in Portugal. It sits on Rio Lima, a beautifully clear and shallow river that defines this area. We walked across the bridge that was built in the 1200’s. The heat nearly melted us - it was a high of 28C or 82F. The Swedes aren’t used to hot.

    We are going to be taking some walks in the mornings and wine tasting in the afternoons. At least that is the plan. I’m hoping to get another day or two in the pool or even swimming in the rivers around here if they aren’t any more freezing than the pool.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 19

    Ecovia and Sistelo

    April 18, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Today we hike along the Rio Vez. I love how different the landscape is from our Pacific BC and Northwest Pacific creeks. And the birds are new. I saw eight different species (that I could identify) and none of them are found back home. The European Robin is smaller and has the most lovely voice. Kirsten and Lennart recognized the Nötskrika (Nut Screamer) or what here is called in English Eurasian Jay. I found a picture on the interweb that I included here - not my shot. A little bit of home for them. They also recognized the plants and architecture of the riverside - like their home in Halmstad, Sweden. They have been teaching me a very little bit of Swedish. I really like the sound of it but can’t quite pronounce the words very well. Practice, practice, practice.

    You could just feel the tensions of the city touring melt away along the trail. While I do love a good museum, public art and the mass of humanity, the peace and sound of the water calms my soul. It is also where Lennart is most at home and brings back memories of my long summer days in Swan Lake, NY. I got some good reflection pictures and a few of those quirky signs along the way.

    We found a perfect swimming hole in the river, but the water was freezing. I couldn’t get my feet in without the tops protesting loudly. Kirsten was able to get all the way in but just for a moment. It was nice to just sit on the waters edge dipping my very cold feet in and out of the water wearing a bathing suit - in April. Sorry.

    After our hike, we visited a small perfectly cared for town, Sistelo. There were very, very few people anywhere. We did spy two older women dressed all in black working, one with lambs and the other in the garden. I think this place gets busloads of tourists in the summer months. Not yet.

    We tried to go wine tasting but it was stupid expensive. Twenty-five euro for tasting three wines at one winery; another was 75 euro for groups. The wine is nice but not that nice. We have been drinking four and five euro bottles that are quite good. We ended up buying about 3.5 lbs of chicken for four euro or about $4.40 USD or $5.90 CDN. In any measure, it was dirt cheap. As is the cheese here. We get big hunks for four of five euro.

    Tomorrow more hiking in the national park.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 20

    Peneda-Gerês National Park

    April 19, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We hiked (again straight up) goat trails but really cow paths in a couple parts the national park in this northern part of Portugal. I must admit that the landscape was not all that beautiful to me. Also, I’m a bit over hiking only looking down at my feet to find my footing along the rocky paths.

    But the views of the mountains and valleys were great. Granite rocks and tiny ancient towns were beautiful. Sheryl drove us through the town of Gaviera. Our economy-size car barely fit in the narrow alleyways and corridors of stone walls and buildings.

    It didn’t help that we got lost a couple times. And it was too hot. I am not quite ready for 24C ( 75F). When we got out in the sun, it was just too hot, but the shade was too cold.

    But we had some good wine and grilled steak for dinner and some interesting post-dinner conversation together. All and all, a good day.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 23

    Ponte de Lima and Guemaras and…

    April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Our last two days in Portugal were exploring more of the riverside hike along the Rio Vez. Much of it was beautiful boardwalks. And we walked around the small very old and charming towns all over the area.

    We cracked open the homemade bottles from our host. They were undrinkable. Sadly. We also bought a 2.30 euro bottle from a local shop that we didn’t bother opening. We couldn’t not purchase something from this local sweetheart of a woman.

    I have eaten enough meat on this trip. Fish and meat are in everything and at every meal. Even the beans were cooked in bacon fat. Oy. We ate breakfast at “home” every morning which was lovely.

    We visited a few churches in these old towns. I don’t quite get the total obsession with showing the torture and murder of Christ in nearly every corner of the church. Where are the beautiful stories of the kind and miraculous and merciful deeds he did? Seems like an odd emphasis. But what do I know? I’m Jewish.

    It absolutely poured buckets on our drive back to Lisbon. And we hit rush hour. Long drive but good company. I have been tearing up all morning saying goodbye first to Sheryl and then Kristen and Lennart.

    On to my next adventure! Morocco!    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 24

    Casablanca - Day One Morocco

    April 23, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    I’m in Africa! Again. It has been 32 years since I set foot on this continent - a lifetime ago. I met two of my travelling companions, Stacey and Anna-Ruth at the airport. Gail missed her flight from Paris - we hate the Paris airport. Stacey is retired and a seasoned solo traveller. Anna-Ruth and Stacey had this trip planned for 2020, and we all know what happened then.

    Our hotel is quaint. The decorations are very, well, Moroccan. Comfy beds, plenty of space, not enough towels. It is a perfect place to get into the swing of travel here in Morocco.

    We hired a very inadequate driver to take us around for a few hours to see some sights. He dropped us off at four places, and three of them were not where we wanted to go. So back in the van each time to get it right. The markets are mostly closed today because yesterday was Eid. It was Eid in Europe the day before - they follow a different calendar. Seems nonsensical.

    We had lunch at Rick’s Cafe - like as in the movie Casablanca. This food was delicious if a bit spendy. We enjoyed the lavish meal nonetheless. It was nice to get to know a little bit about my new friends. I shared pictures of my garden and talked about Portugal. Stacey is retired and loving it. Anna-Ruth has not quite made the leap but is planning on it. And, of course, Gail retired and then took a job. Not a stellar retirement plan, but I think she is enjoying her job.

    Once we ditched the driver, we took a walking tour that was designed to show off the mix of architecture here is Casablanca. It seems the Portugese controlled this city for a while and then the French. We saw tiles on buildings that were much like the ones we saw in all over Portugal. Old buildings are either knocked over, crumbling, or have been refurbished. These are interspersed with art deco, french and European influences too.

    We happened upon a park teeming with families out enjoying the day after feast day. Lots of music, kids running around, and families strolling along. It was nice to be in a crowded place that was not a tourist place.

    Tonight we meet our tour guide and get oriented. Here we go.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 25

    Casablanca Morning

    April 24, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Our guide, Mohammad, gave all 15 of us a briefing on the tour. I can mostly understand his English. We loaded on to our big orange bus to visit the Hassan II Mosque. It was magical.

    Built by French architects with Moroccan design, it incorporates the shape of a Christian church, balconies for women’s prayer space like Jewish synagogues, and Moorish architecture and carpets for prayer on the floors. What struck me was the deep spirituality and beauty of this active mosque. No images of men, tortured or otherwise, to communicate the holiness of the sight. Quotes from the Koran carved into the pillars show devotion.

    Below the grand hall, sits the washing fountains. The women’s and men’s areas are the same and of equal size even though the floor accommodates 20,000 men, and the balconies, 5,000 women. They wash at home usually before going to the mosque to pray. The fountains pour water only during special days to wash one’s hands, face, forearms, and feet. Everyday faucets provide washing stations for people coming from work before prayer on other days.

    Built recently it hides its speakers and technology well. And the roof slides open to illuminate the space. As per the Koran, the mosque is built by the water and the portico faces Mecca. To guard against the corrosive sea air, the doors are made of titanium and ceilings of cedar. Lastly, the pillars of the baths are made with a mixture of plaster with egg white to act as a natural dehumidifier.

    A must see if you come to Casablanca.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 25

    Rabat Afternoon

    April 24, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    So, group touring. It has been a long time since I have travelled on a tour. I’m a little cranky about the herd and time limits. I’m guessing this is also just adjusting to everything from my Portuguese journey. I’ll be fine. I just need a minute.

    Rabat is pristine. It is the capitol city and home base for the King. We visited the old (11th and 12th century old) medina and the King’s palace. Our guide for this part was nearly impossible to understand at times. I miss a lot.

    What I learned was that the King is also the President of Morocco and does wield a fair amount of power. Unfortunately, he was in so we couldn’t go in to the palace.

    It is fascinating to see these places and over the centuries the influences and strictures applied and imposed by each.

    On one of our coffee breaks, there was a bus load of young Jewish men all decked out in their tallits and those curly sideburns which I can’t remember how to spell. My assumptions were that Jews would not be welcomed because of the strong Muslim culture. I think I might be wrong about that. A question to ask.

    On our way to Meknes we passed by old walls, sheep and wheat fields, and as we get closer to Meknes, olive trees.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 26

    Meknes and Roman Ruins

    April 25, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    It is hot, hot, hot! Our driver is wearing a long sleeve shirt and quilted vest. We are sweating through all our clothes.

    Much of Meknes is under renovations. We drove through the Jewish quarter - the new and old part. There are 200 mosques, three synagogues, and one Catholic church . Morocco received many Jewish people fleeing from the Spainish Inquisition and then again during WW II. The guides speak of how the people lived and live side by side in peace.

    We visited a beautiful mosque where our local guide described that Muslims are buried laying on their side, facing Mecca. He also told us about the doors - big doors when it’s hot, and little doors when it’s cold. (That’s why, Bob)

    The palace here is surrounded by three walls to guard against invaders. It seems different kings moved the capitols to make there mark and security was a big thing.

    Next up a drive across the countryside for a picnic with food we picked up at the grocery store. My favorite.

    Then we walked amongst some amazing Roman ruins with intact tile floors each with a story to tell and baths and kitchens and shop signs. Just remarkable. And crazy hot.

    Right now we are on the road to Fes stuck behind an onion truck. We will have two nights in Fes to explore and also do our laundry.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    2
    Day 27

    Fes

    April 26, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We had a full day with a local guide Rachid (I think that is how it is spelled). We wandered through the old Jewish quarter where Jews no longer live. When the French left in the 1950s, they moved in to their newer nicer neighborhood.

    These small, cramped quarters are fully inhabited now by workers. I’m not sure how I would ever manage without a guide in this maze of alleyways, stairs and doors.

    More mosques and exquisite plaster carvings, tile work and wood. It all runs together at this point, one more beautiful then the next.

    Next we walked through the extensive market with, well, everything. Market fruits and vegetables, meat including camel, breads, nougat and spices. And then the myriad of crafts: fabrics, brass, leathers, ceramics, wood and any souvenirs you might like. I was delighted with the stuff but more the throngs of people buying and meeting friends, the old men sitting at stalls, and women collecting goods for dinner. Life.

    The tannery was quite sad though. Skinny men were hip-deep in the vats for each step in the tanning process stamping the skins and pulling them out. A stinking, difficult and toxic job. The leathers was butter-soft and beautiful. I just couldn’t.

    At the end of the day after a dip in the pool and a picnic dinner at our hotel bar, I was beat. Tomorrow is a bus day to to the desert.    Read more

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