Bilbao Spain

mei - juni 2023
This vacation trip started on Tuesday, May 23, 2023, in Bilbao with a group of friends, intending to explore the North Coast of Spain, including the coastal mountains, and the Rioja wine region. The trip ended in Bilbao on June 17th. Meer informatie
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  • 26dagen
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  • Dag 11

    Llanes

    2 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Today offered a tranquil day of exploration in the charming city of Llanes. The historic town is adorned with remnants of its old walls, some tracing their origins back to the early 12th century. The city exudes a cozy atmosphere with a present-day population of approximately 3,800 residents.

    Our apartment served as the perfect starting point, conveniently situated within walking distance of everything. Following a scenic grassy path along the coastline, we were led to a petite urban beach and a bustling harbor—ample time allowed us to amble leisurely, capturing numerous photographs to encapsulate the moments.

    After savoring a delightful lunch at a serene eatery, we returned to the coastline. This time, we embarked on a journey in the opposite direction, tracing the same elevated grassy trail overlooking the sea for several miles. The water below transitioned from deep blue to turquoise, displaying its crystal-clear and pristine nature. The underwater landscape was distinct - rocks and sand were clearly visible deep down.

    As the sky began to shroud itself in incoming clouds and distant rumbles of thunder echoed over the coastal mountains, we recognized the signal to conclude our seaside sojourn. A retreat to our apartment beckoned, promising refreshing showers and relaxation. While Ursula and Renata diligently attended to the task of folding clothes laundered the previous day, Kurt and I consulted the map, charting the course for our onward journey to the west.

    With dinner reservations secured at Restaurante Casa Canere for 7:30, we anticipated a delightful dining experience. Yet, our expectations were met with disappointment as the waiter displayed disinterest and lackluster enthusiasm in attending to us. Seizing the moment, I proposed that we seek an alternative. Our spontaneous stroll brought us to the sun terrace of Hotel Soblón, where an exceptional table awaited. Though slightly pricier, the panorama, ambiance, and delectable grilled Sea Bass proved more than satisfying. Renata's contentment was palpable; she humorously credited me with salvaging the evening.

    Anticipation now turns to tomorrow's destination: the picturesque coastal enclave of Lastres, a mere 2-1/2 hours' journey from our present location.
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  • Dag 12

    Llanes - Lastres

    3 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    We embarked on our journey from our cozy apartment in Llanes, setting off around 10:30 AM. Our first delightful stop was in a charming nearby village, where we indulged in a delightful morning meal of coffee and buttery croissants.

    Instead of simply taking the quickest route to Lastres, we embraced adventure and detoured through the picturesque coastal mountains, following the winding AR-115 road. Along this route, we were treated to the sights of quaint farming towns and lush cow pastures. Our path then led us onto the AR-260, which guided us to the breathtaking Mirador del Fito, a lofty mountain pass situated at an impressive elevation of 1,100 meters above sea level. Here, a unique observation deck gave us an expansive 180-degree panorama of the coastal mountains and valleys. The surroundings exuded an untouched natural beauty, interrupted only by sporadic pockets of deforestation. During our time there, I gathered a handful of wild strawberries, a charming gift for Ursula.

    Kurt, in his characteristic spirit of exploration, veered off course in search of fresh fruit near Colunga. A fortunate turn of events led us astray, and we unexpectedly stumbled upon a field where local farmers proudly showcased their prized cows and bulls. The sight was truly captivating. These Asturian Valley cattle, native to the northern coastal areas along the Bay of Biscay, proved to be a remarkable and unique breed, a story vividly told through the attached photos.

    After our Colunga escapade, our quest for a satisfying lunch proved fruitless. Hence, we made the decision to head straight to our ultimate destination, Lastres. This quaint coastal town, graced with a beach and a bustling fishing harbor, welcomed us with its distinctive charm. The town's architecture, with houses harmoniously integrated into the steep hillside, held stories that dated back to the 16th century. Narrow cobblestone streets and numerous staircases adorned the town, promising a bit of a workout for our legs. Nonetheless, we eagerly anticipated the opportunity to explore not only the town itself but also the surrounding areas.

    Our abode for the stay was the enchanting Hotel Casa Eutimio, a three-story stone building steeped in history. The interior boasted wooden staircases and elegant hardwood floors. Our spacious room was thoughtfully appointed, comprising a cozy living space and a comfortable bedroom with a double bed. The window treated us to a town vista with majestic mountains as a captivating backdrop. As for Kurt and Renata, their first-floor room came complete with a charming balcony that offered splendid views of the harbor and the beach.

    However, our dining experience that evening left much to be desired. The seafood Paella we eagerly ordered was a disappointment, featuring a sparse supply of shrimp and an abundance of inedible crabs. Although typically composed, I couldn't help but feel frustrated. It was astonishing that such subpar fare could be served and maintain a thriving business. The gracious waiter acknowledged the mishap and kindly extended a 15% discount as an apology.

    Thankfully, the evening took a positive turn as we savored the delights of rich espresso coffees and delectable ice cream on the terrace of our hotel. This serene conclusion brought a sense of contentment and provided a fitting end to a day filled with diverse experiences.
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  • Dag 13

    Lastres - Playa España - Oviedo

    4 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    The hotel provided a delightful morning meal, featuring café con leche, delicate pancakes, a homemade bundt cake, fresh bread, butter, and jam.

    Among our fellow guests is an animated Australian woman who is trekking the Santiago de Compostela trail. Taking a brief respite, she's renting a car to explore the surroundings. She enthusiastically recommended paying a visit to the Oviedo market.

    Kurt decided to have a leisurely day, enjoying the beach and catching up on reading.

    Meanwhile, Renata, Ursula, and I embarked on a journey to Oviedo. Our leading destination was the Mercado El Fontán, endorsed by the Australian traveler (a 52-minute drive away). Regrettably, as it was Sunday, the market was only partially operational. Nevertheless, the streets encircling the market were brimming with tent-style outdoor vendors and a vibrant crowd.

    Renata snagged a white linen blouse for a mere €5 during our exploration. Naturally, we paused for a coffee break in a charming plaza where a Basque folklore ensemble enthralled the atmosphere with their drums and bagpipes.

    As we wrapped up our time in Oviedo, we took a detour through the captivating countryside, navigating narrow secondary roads, eventually stumbling upon the serene Playa España—a sandy beach—a picturesque surprise.

    Such an enjoyable escapade. Stay tuned for more adventures to come...
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  • Dag 14

    Lastres - Cudillero - Luarca

    5 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    At around 9:30 AM, we said our goodbyes to the delightful town of Lastres. Our journey continued along the scenic Highway A-8, guiding us past Oviedo as we headed north and west along the picturesque Asturias coast. After approximately 90 minutes of driving, we descended to sea level, arriving at the charming fishing village of Cudillero. Here, we had the chance to explore and purchase local fruits, as this region is renowned for its Kiwi, Apples, Plums, and Blueberries.

    Much like our previous experience in Lastres, Cudillero enchanted us with its unique allure. Tucked into the steep hillsides encircle the harbor, the village's ancient stone buildings were adorned with many vibrant colors. Our timing was perfect – visiting during the pre-season allowed us to savor the village's beauty without the hustle and bustle of crowds. The impeccable cleanliness of the surroundings, including the streets, shops, and even public restrooms, left a strong impression on us.

    Following Routes CU-3, A-8, and N-634, we eventually reached our ultimate destination for the day: the fishing town of Luarca. The well-maintained roads and highways made our journey quite smooth. Although finding parking posed a bit of a challenge, we eventually located a municipal garage about a quarter mile upriver. Exploring the town on foot, we meandered through narrow streets and charming alleys until we reached the lively port area. There, we stumbled upon a delightful restaurant where we enjoyed a light, late lunch.

    Our accommodation for the night was at the Casa Manoli Estate, nestled 1.6 miles inland amidst the tranquil countryside adorned with orchards and lush pastures. This estate, once a strawberry farm in the 1990s, now offered us a simple yet spacious room for €45. After checking in and taking a break, we discussed our plans for the following day, which would take us to Viveiro.

    While Kurt decided to stay at the hotel due to a lack of appetite, Renata, Ursula, and I ventured back into town for an evening meal. The dinner experience was delightful – I opted for a regional specialty, Fabada Asturiana, while Ursula savored grilled sardines, and Renata indulged in grilled baby squid. A few glasses of the House Wine further elevated our culinary adventure. A rather bold seagull attempted to snatch food from a neighboring table, adding a touch of amusement to our evening.

    As the day ended, we returned to our hotel just in time for me to capture a breathtaking sunset photograph, marking the end of another splendid day in the enchanting northern region of Spain.
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  • Dag 15

    Luarca - Viveiro

    6 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The hotel pleasantly surprised us with its modest yet delightful breakfast spread. I couldn't get enough of the freshly squeezed, sweet orange juice, homemade strawberry marmalade, and juicy Kiwi fruits. What a wonderful way to start our day in Spain!

    Our morning kicked off with a mesmerizing visit to Playa de las Catedrales. This unique sandy shoreline showcased towering rock formations, some adorned with intricate tunnels and arches sculpted by the relentless sea over time. Among these rocks, one stood out with angles that brought to mind the grandeur of cathedral architecture. Be sure to check out the attached photos to witness it for yourself.

    Our next stop was a captivating tour of a ceramic and porcelain factory in Sargadelos. We opted for a self-guided tour, observing the skilled artisans at work. It was truly fascinating to witness the intricate process of creating ceramic pieces from their inception to the final delicate hand-painted touches. It's no wonder that a seemingly ordinary coffee cup commands a price of €34.

    Our accommodation, Thalasso Las Sirenas in Viveiro, was a refreshing change with its modern 4-star amenities. We indulged in the luxury of elevators and a spa, feeling thoroughly pampered. From our balcony, we savored the view of the beach and the bay, with a distant glimpse of the city to our right. This evening, we have dinner reservations at the restaurant on the 5th floor, enclosed in glass and offering a breathtaking view of the bay. The enticing items on the menu promise a memorable gastronomic experience.

    Ursula and I deeply bond with our fellow travelers, Kurt and Renata. Our friendship goes back to the 70s during our time in New York. Sharing similar interests, we explore Spain together. Kurt and Renata take the lead in planning our itinerary and selecting our destinations, with a shared understanding that flexibility is key. Our plans are open to discussion and adjustments as circumstances evolve. Tomorrow marks the 16th day of our vacation as we prepare for a 150-kilometer drive to the city of Cedeira.

    Kurt's exceptional driving skills are in action while I play the role of co-pilot. Additionally, I assist Renata in finding accommodations and restaurants and manage reservation calls, serving as the translator and communicator for our team.

    Here's to teamwork, and here's to the beauty of España!
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  • Dag 16

    Viveiro - Ortigueira - Cedeira

    7 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    As a traveler, I found solace in the gentle night rain that welcomed us, a promising prelude to our journey. The weather forecast assured us of its companionship until our return to the USA, but, as any traveler knows, plans can always take unexpected turns.

    Our day began on the outskirts of Viveira, where we found ourselves cradling morning coffee at a quaint bar. Delightful ceramic cups, remnants of our visit to the Sargadelos factory the day before, embraced our senses and set the tone for the day ahead.

    Following the damp path of AC-100, we headed north towards the Cape de Estaca de Bares lighthouse. Miraculously, the rain decided to retreat, granting us a clear view of the stunning landscape. The journey led us through dense eucalyptus forests, filling the air with their wonderful aroma.

    We continued our journey past the charming coastal towns of Ortigueira and Cariño, choosing route DP-2205, which guided us to the coastal mountain hamlet of Santo André de Teixido. Even though light rain veiled the scenery, it couldn't diminish the hamlet's undeniable charm. A petite church welcomed our footsteps here, and a conversation with a friendly local named Carmen unfolded. To my delight, she had eucalyptus honey for sale. Little did she know that I have quite a passion for honey! 😂

    Our route to Cedeira, our final destination, took us along a narrow and winding road. Eucalyptus forests and picturesque pastoral scenes, with grazing cows and elegant horses, painted a landscape reminiscent of Switzerland's Jura mountains.

    Cedeira itself was unassuming, a typical coastal town with a familiar harbor. We made our way to Hotel Herbeira, perched slightly higher and offering a welcome accent of rain as it cascaded upon us.

    Carmen, the hotel's warm-hearted proprietor, greeted us warmly and assigned us modern rooms overlooking the swimming pool and bay. It was a humorous coincidence that the name Carmen came up again, as she had sold me honey, earlier in Santo André de Teixido. It turned out she had deep-rooted connections to the area through her husband. It truly is a small world!

    Since the solitary fine dining establishment in town had chosen that day for closure, we decided to dine at the hotel's restaurant. It turned out to be a symphony of flavors – a mixed salad, a platter adorned with cheese and prosciutto, accompanied by fresh bread and a glass of wine, all playing their delicious part in our culinary adventure.
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  • Dag 17

    Cedeira - Lugo

    8 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    June 8th:
    Today, we embarked from Cedeira in the morning and journeyed to Lugo, navigating through a captivating landscape of rolling hills, enchanting forests, and vibrant pastures. Our day's lodging, meant for both today and tomorrow, welcomed us amidst a torrential downpour ☔️. Unfortunately, our spacious Mercedes couldn't be accommodated in the assigned parking garage, compelling Kurt to park it skillfully along a nearby side street.

    June 9th:
    Lugo, with approximately 100,000 residents, has a rich historical past. Once a pivotal Roman military encampment in the 12th century during the conquest of northern European regions, the town flourished. Evident from this era is a formidable 30-foot fortified wall encompassing the compound, fortified further by 71 watchtowers. Much of this structure endures today, and the sight was awe-inspiring. Most of our morning was dedicated to immersing ourselves in the city encircled by the Roman Wall, revealing a striking cathedral, numerous charming squares, and delightful boutique establishments.

    Ursula and I embarked on a leisurely stroll from the ancient quarters to the banks of the River Miño, traversing the Roman Bridge—an integral part of the Pilgrim trail leading to Santiago de Compostela.

    Following a brief interlude for coffee, we regrouped at the apartment, enjoying the French Tennis Semi-Final match between Carlos Alcaraz and Novak Djokovic. Later, Kurt and I secured lodgings for the forthcoming day and meticulously examined our planned itinerary.

    For this evening's dining escapade, we opted for a local tavern celebrated for its seafood offerings. Our palate was treated to delectable Hake, Squid, and Octopus servings.

    Our destination on the morrow is the city of Ponferrada, nestled within the province of León.
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  • Dag 20

    Lugo - Ponferrada

    11 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

    Once again, the breathtaking landscape stretches endlessly, adorned with lush green hills and valleys that extend as far as the eye can see, devoid of any visible houses.

    Approaching Ponferrada, the scenery evolves, showcasing hills adorned with vineyards and fruit orchards that dot the spaces between the mountains. These charming farms and houses gradually cluster into quaint villages.

    Up to this point, our journey has been graced by impeccably maintained local roads and highways, complete with clear signage and directional indicators.

    The vibrant yellow hue that catches your attention is the flourishing Scotch Broom, adorning our path as we ascend to the pilgrim statue atop the lofty elevation of 1270 meters.

    The Hotel Temple Ponferrada, conveniently situated within a stroll from the town center, looks like a castle fit for noble knights, exuding a corresponding decor. Our generously sized rooms on the 6th floor are elegantly designed rustically.

    Dominating the cityscape, the Templars Castle of Ponferrada is a testament to its medieval history. Once among the most imposing fortresses in northwestern Spain, it was gifted to the Knights Templar by King Alfonso IX in 1211 as a gesture of peace.

    We dined at Restaurant Doce Torres in the old town across from the castle for our evening meal. As darkness settled in, the courtyard was splendidly illuminated, extending an irresistible invitation for the iPhone to capture the moment in a flawless photograph.
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  • Dag 20

    Ponferrada - Peñalba - León

    11 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    What a hassle! Iberia canceled our flight Bilbao-Madrid for June 19th. I spent 1-hour this morning on the phone between American Airlines and Iberia to book new flights and get seat assignments. Our return to the US is scheduled for June 17th, one day shorter than planned, with an estimated arrival in Dallas at 3:56 PM.

    Before departing Ponferrada, we walked to town and had coffee and pastries at a unique bakery Kurt spotted last night on our walk home.

    Around 10 AM, we headed for the nearby mountains for some hiking. The narrow, windy road quickly gained altitude, and the pressure in our ears needed several adjustments. After a 40-minute drive, we reached the cute mountain hamlet of Peñalba. The streets were cobblestone. The houses are built of local stone with slate roofs and wooden balconies.

    Peñalba was born years ago by a small community of monks from the south. They used a cave about 4 miles away, on the other side of the Valley of Silence, for meditation. It was this cave that we planned to hike to today.

    It was a beautiful hike in pure nature. On the way, we passed small vegetable gardens and apple, pear, plum, and cherry orchards and met two ladies with baskets filled with freshly picked Chanterelles mushrooms. I greeted a Chinese hiker lady with a friendly Nǐ hǎo (Hello) and earned a big smile! The cave was relatively small, with a couple of steps leading to a platform with an Altar.

    Peñalba had a restaurant where we stopped to drink and eat before descending to Ponferrada and taking Hwy #6 to León. Our hotel for tonight is the Crisol Quindos, about 1.2 miles from the town center.

    Dinner tonight was at La Bodega del Húmedo, which was recommended to us by a couple from León whom we met earlier in Peñalba. The food was OK, but we were not overly impressed with our ordered dishes.

    Overall - another great day in northern Spain.
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  • Dag 21

    Leon - Burgos

    12 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    The check-out time was at noon today, which gave us a few more hours to explore the old town of León after breakfast. We intended to visit the Museo Botines Gaudí and the Museum of Modern Art. However, the exhibitions were not what we had expected.

    The drive from León to Burgos on routes A-60 and A-231 was lovely. The sun was out, and the sky was slightly cloudy. The landscape was mostly flat, with many agricultural fields to the left and right as far as the eye could see.

    The hotel receptionist in León accommodated us in making reservations at their sister Hotel in Burgos, which was easy to find. It's in a good location and within walking distance of the old town center. The Camino de Santiago runs through Burgos, which has a population of about 180,000. It was founded in 884 and controlled by the Romans in the 11th century.

    The main attraction in Burgos is the Cathedral Santa Maria on the Plaza Rey Fernando. It is considered one of the most beautiful and the largest in the world. After a quick tapas lunch, I visited the Cathedral with Kurt while our ladies took a break in the nearby park.

    Construction of the basic Cathedral began in 1221 and was expanded over the next 200 years by different builders, and many artists influenced its style. It is the most massive Cathedral I have ever visited. The columns' size and the arches' height were terrific, as were the sculptures, golden ornaments, and wood carvings. See attached pictures.

    We plan to return to Plaza Rey Fernando tonight for a drink at a Vermouth Bar mentioned in our travel guide and dinner at a Pizza restaurant.
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