South East Asia

januari - juni 2023
Here we are at last! I’ll be sharing my thoughts on the best S.E. Asia has to offer me Meer informatie
  • 34Footprints
  • 4landen
  • 137dagen
  • 249foto’s
  • 21video’s
  • 7,9kkilometer
  • 3,7kkilometer
  • Dag 18

    Sticky waterfalls and Muay Thai

    15 februari 2023, Thailand ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    The following day I joined Hannah who I had spoken to walking back from the show In going to the sticky waterfalls.

    Limestone buildup on the waterfalls makes them very grippy and there’s a path to climb up which we scaled couple of times. I wasn’t expecting much but it definitely exceeded expectations.

    I thought I would be too tired to do anything that evening, but ended up at the Muay Thai anyway. The first couple of rounds started slowly but it quickly turned into a pretty brutal evening. There were seven fights and for most of them slightly bigger fighter ended up winning. Six out of the seven fights ended in KO or TKO in or before round 3 or 5, with knockouts from elbows, kicks, sucker punches and a particularly brutal knee to the forehead of a fighter who was being way too cocky I’m not defending properly. I later learned he had been drunk and never should have been allowed to fight.

    The only fight which did go the whole way was the main event and provided a very entertaining fight, although the man in red was clearly on top for large parts. I don’t think there are normally that many knockouts in one night but I guess we got a good one. These guys also fight fairly often, as often as their body is ready for, so I guess a lot of them will choose not to get back up even if they maybe could.
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  • Dag 19

    Chef

    16 februari 2023, Thailand ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    After a wander around the old town I had my cooking class!! Our instructor Natty lead us around The farm where they grow a lot of the vegetables they used, plus a local market Where we could see how the locals usually purchase ingredients. There was a lot more plastic packaging and premade flavour packs than I was expecting which makes me feel less bad for using these sort of things at home

    The method of cooking the food in a gas fired wok were less novel than a lot of the ingredients used. Lemon grass, Kaffir lime leaf and a root similar to ginger featured heavily with some unique veg like Thai eggplant thrown in. I chose to make a Ka Preow stir fry, Paneang curry and creamy Tom Yum soup Which were all pretty good if I do say so myself (although to be fair most of the credit should go to Natty for her instructions).

    I thought I would pass out as soon as I got back home, but somehow got persuaded to join a couple of my classmates for a beer and a visit to Zoe in Yellow, A bar I remember seeing Zoe go to on her travels. I absolutely would recommend although the Tuk Tuk right back was a bit hairy with four of us crammed in.

    I’ve enjoyed Chiang Mai so far, there’s lots to do at my hostel makes it impossible not to get out and about, but I have found it hard to maintain a constant group of people as everyone here is doing stuff during the day and night and everyone is also heading in all directions afterwards. Oh well I will find some people I can settle into travelling with later as people tend to move the same direction in Laos, But for now I’m just throwing myself at all the activities.
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  • Dag 20

    Waterpark and hiking

    17 februari 2023, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Talking about throwing myself into touristy things, I spent the next day throwing myself around the Grand Canyon water park.

    I went by myself but met an Aussie bloke who had also come solo. Amongst all the fun of jumping, sliding and falling off the various inflatable obstacles I managed to win myself a couple of free drinks from the hydrofoil scooters by completing a full lap of the enclosure.

    In the evening I briefly met up with Adam from Pai in the night markets then followed Cosima from my cooking class for more drinks. She told me of her plans to go and see some fairly touristy things the next day and even though I am enthusiastically agreed I decided the next morning that I would rather go on a hike.

    The hike I was looking for was called the monks trail and have been recommended to me by some people. It was meant to only be a loop of about an hour through the jungle stopping off at a meditation retreat hidden in the trees. I accidentally took a wrong turning and ended up climbing up the entire mountain to Doi Suthep at the very top. The view of a Chiangmai was incredible but I was knackered and had to get a Coke to revive myself. I wisely decided to get a red taxi back to the city so that I could get some food in me sooner rather than later.
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  • Dag 21

    Transition to Chiang Rai

    18 februari 2023, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    After my experience with getting the bus to Pai, I didn’t end up booking my bus to Chiang Rai through a mixture of laziness, indecisiveness and confidence that I would get to see it anyway, so I was a little shocked when all the buses had sold out for the day.

    I decided to wait for the bus anyway and managed to persuade (financially) the bus attendant to let me on an empty seat. Successfully in Chiang Rai now I popped to the very last night market was talking to Sophia to get myself something to eat.

    I found Chiang Mai a really lovely city, and once had figured out how to order Moped taxi from an app called Bolt, the spread of things to do with readily available. I would absolutely consider returning there as there was a lot I didn’t get to do I really enjoyed how the city felt local, not super touristy but with plenty of stuff to do just a short drive out of the city. It’s just a shame that the bakery I went to every morning, which made a variety of fresh pastries and rolls that would be first class even in Europe, Is closing down at the end of February as the owner has had enough of running it.
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  • Dag 23

    ‘Resting’ in Chiang Rai

    20 februari 2023, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    So I said I will try and relax in Chiang Rai… that really didn’t end up happening. I went and rented a scooter after an interesting breakfast at a very local restaurant where I tried some bits of pig I’m fairly sure I’ve never tried before like liver tripe and blood cake.

    I wanted to go up to the Tham Luang Cave with a Thai boys football team got trapped and the golden triangle where Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet but I wasn’t sure I had the time before sunset, plus that would’ve meant a few hours riding a moped on the motorways which I wasn’t ready for.

    Instead I went around the touristy spots, mostly religious, and drove through some of the beautiful countryside through the backstreets. The blue temple was cool and different but the white temple was possibly the most beautiful temple I’ve seen in Thailand so far. I was too late to get inside but it meant I arrived there for a very good sunset.

    The Bandaam (Black house) was also very interesting. Full of folklore and more like an art exhibit, it’s comprised mostly of various animal skins intricate furniture and lots of wooden penises.

    Then this evening was the Sunday Walking street markets where I was joined by Canadians Harry and Nathel, and German Tanja. I grabbed myself another Khak Soi, Which was quickly becoming my favourite northern dish, then as I tried to find a table I was invited to sit on the floor and drink whiskey some locals. I accepted and had one of my best nights yet.

    They spoke very little English but I think drinking culture helped break down the language barrier. Alongside finishing a bottle of harsh Thai whiskey between three of us, we also joined in with the traditional tie circle dancing. I don’t think I did an amazing job of following the footwork of those in front of me but I was a little tipsy so didn’t care and I think I did a better job than Nathel Who was the only other one from the hostel who joined in with the dancing (and they had all left the drinking to me).

    I felt less hangover than I expected so I took Harry on the back of my mopeds to see a massive (~90m) White border on a hill outside town. I then got my first time massage after booking the slow boat to Laos which was a fair bit more painful than expected.

    I was torn with what to do with the evening and since I was relaxing on a boat for the next couple of days I decided to go on an extended walk around the town. The town of Chiang Rai Itself has very little to offer tourists and most attractions are a drive outside of the town. This however made it very interesting to walk around and see what the locals were up to. After over 2 1/2 hours of wondering I return to find Harry waiting for me to go to dinner we grabbed a tasty noodle soup from a restaurant I passed earlier then pop to the night bazaar to top up on food.

    After a quick chat with Sophia I retrieved my head torch from a Greek guy called Antoni who had lent it so he could go and explore a cave I hadn’t had time to explore. He showed me photos of inside but more interesting he told me of a monk who had met on the way back who lives in a different cave complete with a few large golden Buddhas. The monk talks non-stop in Thai, half to himself as Antoni didn’t understand and gave him a tour of his home. it would be good to find more people like Antoni are willing to do completely random adventurous things like that and I kind of wish I joined him although I wasn’t sad to miss out on the five hour walking round trip he had to get there.
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  • Dag 25

    Slow boat to Laos

    22 februari 2023, Laos ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The last couple of days have been actually relaxing and I think I’ve needed it as I haven’t really stopped since i was I’ll in Pai. The slow boat has forced me to slow down and take some time to just chat play cards and write down some of my thoughts.

    The Mekong meanders through the middle of nowhere with just the odd herd of water buffalo And maybe the occasional group of children playing in the water. The scenery is beautiful but all looks very similar once you’ve seen almost 14 hours of it.

    The stop at Pak Beng overnight wasn’t much to write about we pretty much just had dinner and went straight to bed.

    The scenery has been beautiful and the sunsets sublime. It’s been a very smooth process through the border and on this journey except for maybe the last border official not accepting some of my dollars because they weren’t absolutely pristine.
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  • Dag 27

    Thought dump

    24 februari 2023, Laos ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Bit of a thought dump here. The night market last night was great and I recognised many fellow travellers from previous stops, including Adam who I keep seeming to run into. I opted not to go to bowling, which is the main evening event here and get some rest instead. I’ve had a chill morning exploring the city with Harry (it’s barely a large town but for Laos it’s big) And have had another restful day before night market in bowling tonight.

    I didn’t want my journal to become a Direct retelling of events but it sort of has become that. It’s hard to capture all of the thoughts whilst also being able to describe all the stories so that’s what this entry is for.

    It’s been interesting transitioning from south to north Thailand, then into Laos. It has felt like the further I have gone the poorer and more rural it has gotten. It’s noticeable from a few things.

    First of all the cost. Accommodation has actually been fairly consistent, £6 to £10 a night with a little correlation in quality or price. But the cost of food and transport has been steadily decreasing from 150 Baht (£3.75) from a meal in Bangkok to 25,000 kip in Luang Prabang, The outlier being Pai which is a bit of a tourist hotspot. Transport further up Thailand also drops in cost from 200 baht (£5) for a 10 minute drive in Bangkok to 200 baht for a three hour journey from Chiangmai to Chiang Rai. Laos actually has been a little more expensive for short journeys As there is no Grab or Bolt apps to book cheap taxis or motorbike rides and the tuk tuk mafia bump up costs.

    I noticed the transition in vehicles too. In the south everybody can afford a car and often can afford to modify it too with custom lights, souped up engines and colourful anodised metal parts, particularly on the Tuk-Tuks. In Chiang Mai and Pai cars were present but often swapped out for motorbikes for convenience in the cities, with the odd colourful part or custom wrap on mopeds. Chiang Rai Was even more separated with a few cars in the city and few bikes outside. I also noticed that the majority of the cars here had a dark window tint , absolutely an illegal level in the UK, so you couldn’t see inside. In Laos, cars are old and battered as are most bikes and lorries with many people riding scooters out of cost saving rather than choice. You see a few mopeds carrying large items that could really use a car for Transport, and seeing a moped with A home-made Sidecar is not uncommon. In Thailand I was impressed with the Quality of the roads in general, much better than England on average although I guess they don’t have to deal with the effects of freeze thaw erosion. In Laos however, if you go outside of the city the roads are terrible and full of potholes, sometimes disappearing altogether and turning to dust and rocks.

    The ethnicity has also subtly shifted. Down south people have a light tan skin, brown hair and probably look more typically Thai. Further north and particularly closer to the Chinese and Myanmar borders, the skin has a slightly darker tone hair is darker and denser with more oriental facial features.

    Laos has a large Chinese influence now with many Chinese tourists flooding in due to the new Chinese-built railway that’s slices down the country all the way from China through Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng down to Vientiane. This has helped to funnel Chinese money and influence into the country, physically and metaphorically cementing their influence.

    In Thailand where is bottled beers like Chang, Leo and Singha (~100 baht or £2.50 For a large bottle), and recently legalised marijuana (600baht Or £15 per gram) are priced high to draw out tourists’ money. In Laos Laobeer dominate at only 20,000 kip or £1 for a large bottle. Drugs make money in a different way: occasionally the police will read one of the few bars that have drugs on the menu/hostel that has a lot of people doing drugs. They will take them to a nasty prison for the night telling them that they will be locked away for years then the next morning offer them to pay a few hundred dollars to be set free as a bribe. I’ve heard stories of it happening to a few people even if I haven’t seen it so I will Be steering well clear.

    Some of the photos and videos are a bit out of order here because I’ve since added a little bit more to this entry after arriving to Vang Vieng.
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  • Dag 29

    Luang Prabang

    26 februari 2023, Laos ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Luang Prabang is a beautiful city with rows of French colonial architecture overlooking the merging of the Nam Khan river into the Mekong. There is a small mountain right in the middle of the peninsula with a temple at the top called Mount Phousi which I didn’t get to climb until today was killing a few hours before my train to Vang Vieng. After spending a few days in and around the town it was great to get a panoramic view of all the places I had visited.

    The first place was the Kuang Si waterfalls two days ago. I’m not normally a fan of the overcrowded touristy sites but this one was worth it. The source of the waterfall, about a 15 minute steep hike from the base, leads into a beautiful high waterfall followed by a series of small cascades over limestone ledges.

    I had a great time having a swim and climb around some of the waterfalls, but I also managed to graze my face and chest from swimming into a rock… not clever.

    The next spot was the Pak Ou caves North of the city the next day. Now these were not so worth it. A long drive on terrible roads with Harry on the back of my moped Just to see a small cave on the mountainside full of various Buddha statues and begging children.

    We did see some elephants up close on the way back although they were just chilling in what looks like someone’s front garden. After feeding them we saw one get whacked with a massive stick for getting too close to the house so we decided it was time to leave. I’m not really sure why the elephants were there, we didn’t pay to see or feed them they just seemed more like the pets of the landowners who let tourists come and say hi.

    I’ve also started to find a group to join for Vang Vieng and we’ve spent the last couple of nights enjoying the fantastic night markets before heading to the bowling alley which is the only place open after 10 pm. It’s been nice to have some people who I can just show up and socialise with without having the same conversations on repeat about where I’m from and where I’m going. It turns out that a couple of the guys are from Woking/Guildford too!! Small world eh?
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  • Dag 31

    Ziplining and lagoons

    28 februari 2023, Laos ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    It’s been a busy week in Vang Vieng as I suspected it might. There are heaps of activities to do and nightlife he is good so as I write this I’m feeling a little burned out and ill after a long week of activities and late nights. I’m writing this at the end of the week but I’ll split it up into a few entries as a lot has been happening.

    My first couple of nights here crossed over with the last couple of some of my friends from Pai So I prioritise seeing them for dinner and doing zip lining within the next day instead of tipsy tubing with the English people. In the evenings it’s fairly easy to meet back up and have everyone together as there is a bit of a standard route for the night: Nanas backpackers hostel for free vodka 7 to 9 pm, Sakura bar for cocktail happy hour until 10, Gary is Irish bar for cheesy tunes and dancing until midnight then one of the Riverside bars for afters if you’re not too tired (which most of the time I was).

    It was good to see the Pai people before everyone splinters after Laos. They were really the first people I made good friends with on this trip so they have a special place in my heart. Gina and Dan of travel together since Pai and Adam who I think I bumped into in four places now (Plus Sarah and Michael who are off somewhere else in the world).

    Zip lining was on Monday, my first full day, Then on Tuesday I joined the English guys on a visit to the blue lagoon. I made the mistake of using a scooter as there were nine of us, one too many for the four person dune buggies. I swiftly realised why most people use buggies instead of bikes as I was rattled to the core by the roads that were pretty much just dust and stones. Anyway we had a good day jumping, swinging and swimming about the lagoons, albeit slightly cut short by the fact we had left a bit late in the day.
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  • Dag 32

    Hot air balloons

    1 maart 2023, Laos

    I got slightly drunker and I would’ve liked The night after the lagoons so the next day I slept a lot before the Hot Air Ballooning ride in the evening.

    Now this was quite expensive (1,700,000 kip Or £85) But it’s one of the cheapest places in the world to do it so we thought “why not?” . It’s a strange experience floating up to a couple hundred metres in the air completely silently apart from the odd roar of the burners, But it was absolutely worth it. The balloon is also mostly unsteerable and slow to change elevation so it’s not like we were near to hitting a building or a tree a couple of times as we drifted along at the mercy of the wind. Dumbest/smoky air made for a very scenic Amber sunset as we passed in and out of the shadows of the karst limestone Peaks.Meer informatie