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  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    11
    Day 37

    O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

    May 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    34 days of walking. 500 miles through 274 cities, towns, and hamlets. Roughly 1,023,000 steps in 170 hours of walking. I’ve made it to Santiago de Compostela and completed the Camino Francés!

    I started walking early this morning at 7:00 am and got to Santiago in time to get my Compostela (certificate of completion as well as a secondary certificate of distance completed). I then went to the Cathedral and attended the noon pilgrims mass. Pilgrims (in announcements in multiple languages) were reminded before communion that if they were not Catholic, they were not welcome at the Lord’s table; that caused a lot of people just stand up and leave at that point. I stayed for five more minutes and then followed the other outcasts out through a church side door. Sigh.

    I then had a hamburger and a glass of wine before walking to the Anglican Pilgrim Centre. I was hoping to stop in and take some photos for their website which I help support, but no one answered the door. So, I checked into my hotel and rested a bit before venturing out again.

    Tonight is the eve of Ascension Day, so tomorrow is a bank holiday. Concerts were going on in huge outdoor stage venues on opposing sides of the cathedral. I watched the music events and then tucked in very late (midnight!) as I have a bus tour early tomorrow to Finisterre and Muxia.

    I’m feeling loved and supported and grateful to have the time away from my ministry work to do the Camino Frances. And I’m looking forward to seeing my husband, Bryan, in a couple days and enjoying some time together cruising the Mediterranean.

    Thanks for being with me on this journey as a reader and support!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 36

    Arzúa to O Pedrouzo

    May 7 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    488 miles done. 12 miles left.

    Beautiful sunny day walking through shaded woods and meandering through the far suburbs of Santiago de Compostela. Very short day at only 12 miles, but it was fantastic after the past 12 days of longer walks since the last rest day.

    I was looking for lunch when I found, on Google, a Mexican restaurant in this little town!! Hallelujah! Those nachos I’ve been craving… found! And I rewarded myself with a proper margarita as well. So so good. Talked with the owner, a young guy from Mexico City, who decided to open this restaurant with his sister after believing together that pilgrims might be tired of the same bland pilgrims menus offered along the Camino and might seek out something different than the norm. They were right, at least in regard to my own cravings and business investment sentiment. Instead of a typical ink stamp at the restaurant, I received a legit wax stamp (los muertos inspired) sprinkled with glitter!

    I had a second margarita that kicked in as I walked to my albergue and soon after I checked in and showered, I collapsed in bed and took a 3-hour nap.

    I wandered around the town, enjoyed a kas limon and whiskey cocktail while people watching, then went to a restaurant for an empanada and cheesecake (with Galician wine of course).

    Early to bed because I’m gonna hit the road early in order to beat the trail traffic of other pilgrims. Santiago de Compostela tomorrow!!!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 35

    Palas de Rei to Arzúa

    May 6 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    476 miles done. 24 miles left.

    Sunshine!! Finally. After a week of trudging through rain and mud, I was beginning to be quite grumpy. I’m back to my mostly happy and minimally grumpy self. What takes the fun out of being grumpy is being by yourself. Grumpiness is something that has to be shared, it’s not a solo activity. (Sorry Bryan)

    Was a longer walk today, but only two more short days ahead and I am done! Misión casi cumplida!

    And… I was able to wash all of my clothes tonight, sanitizing them against all the ewwww (see yesterday’s post) from the past few days.

    I chose a restaurant based solely on the fact that I wanted churros for dessert, which is the “famous” thing about the one I sought out. My meal (cubed pork with cheese over fries) was good, but I’d saved room for churros. By the time I’d ordered them, they told me that they were sold out. So instead of resurrecting my grumpiness, I sought out an ice cream shop on the way back to the albergue.

    Two sleeps until Santiago de Compestela!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    1
    Day 34

    Portomarín to Palas de Rei

    May 5 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    458 miles done. 42 miles left.

    Holy cow. Torrential rain for about 90% of the walk today. The trail and roads were flooded with muddy water and the runoff from cow pastures, so the stench of farm sewage was… something. Worse yet was wading through that filth and having your shoes and socks submerged in it all. When I got to my hotel, in an enclosed space, I realized I smelled like I’d been living in a barn for a week. Yuck. I ended up showering with all of my clothes and socks on and washing them by hand, though I’m going to have to find a way to sanitize my clothes somehow. This is the last forecast day of rain, so I’m looking forward to sunshine!!

    Didn’t take many photos today mostly because there wasn’t much to see other than muddy trails, me soaked and looking gross, and very green pastures.

    I did (see yesterday’s post about craving nachos) stop at a little place along the Camino and when I saw “nachos” on the menu, I caved. I had to have them. What I got was…nacho chips, with melted blue cheese (?!?!!), and a strange very red but not spicy whatsoever sauce, for 9€ (which is scandalous for what I got). It was worth a shot to hit the spot, but I’ll have to wait to fulfill that craving for when I return to Denver.

    I’ve noticed that Galacians speak VERY loudly and from some google searching, it appears I’m not alone in my observation. From having so much alone time and silence for the majority of the day, I thought I was just being oversensitive, but…no; they shout at each other as a normal tone and they get progressively louder from there the more excitable they are. If you happen to be in a restaurant where there’s a sports game on of any kind, your ears will be ringing.

    Went to a very cute Italian restaurant (I needed carbs) and it was amazing. So good. Ate all the things… meatballs, garlic bread, lasagna, & salted caramel rocky road ice cream (a bit off the “Italian dinner” theme). Vino tinto de casa was fantastic, and went back to the hotel ready for bed.

    Tomorrow is sunshine. Hopefully less muddy trails. And Santiago de Compostela is very near. As well as then seeing Bryan in Barcelona for the next part of this adventure.

    Night!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    1
    Day 33

    Sarria to Portomarín

    May 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    443 miles done. 57 to go.

    Woke up and looked out the window. Rain. Again. For the 5th day in a row. It’s one of those hard days where you just want to stay curled up in bed, not walk, and binge watch a show all day. But unfortunately, that’s not possible. I have to move on.

    And so I did. And it rained all 14 miles of walking today. But thankfully it was a short day.

    In Portomarín, there was a beer fest (one tent with a half dozen brewers) and so I enjoyed an afternoon of people watching and trying a few beers. And then had an Italian dinner because…pasta (and I’ve had about 20 versions now of the same pilgrims menu dinners).

    4 more days of walking. The end is near.

    And I’m REALLY craving a massive pile of nachos with cheese and tons of jalapeños and tomatoes and sour cream and black beans and all of it. I miss spicy food! That is first on my list when I get home.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    1
    Day 32

    Triacastela to Sarria

    May 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    429 miles done. 71 to go.

    Today was relatively nice and I only had to wear a poncho and rain gear for the first hour of the morning. The rest of the day was beautiful as I found my way to Sarria.

    Was craving carbonara and found it just a few steps away from my hotel and it came in a bread bowl that was delicious. 10/10, would gorge again.

    After the food settled in, I took a nap for a few hours and then wandered the city. Topped the night off with a pizza and vino tinto and then early to bed. 5 more days of walking!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 31

    O Cebreiro to Triacastela

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    416 miles done. 84 to go.

    Lots of snow and rain again today, and more mud and manure to wade through. I am nursing a hot spot on one foot now that I really hope doesn’t transform into a blister, and my stubbed toe from two nights ago has bled quite a bit in my shoe today. No fun, but I’ll heal.

    I was starving by 2:00 pm and ate a full dinner (pasta salad, flank steak, and rice pudding) and then did a necessary load of laundry at the albergue.

    Had a light dinner with some other pilgrims and then was in bed by 9:00 pm. Slept like a log!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    112
    Day 30

    Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro

    May 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    403 miles done. 97 to go.

    Today was a challenge. 800 m (.5 mile) elevation gain over 17 extremely muddy miles through the rain, sleet, and snow. I took a lot of breaks just for sanity. And, I stubbed my toe this morning on the corner of the bed, so walking with a bloody big toe added to the fun.

    I made it over the border from the Castilla y León region to the Galicia region, and was immediately welcomed by the sound of bagpipes in the distance, an instrument known here since medieval times.

    The village is cute… but really straight out of the 1400s. About a dozen buildings. All stone. Some with thatch roofs. Three restaurants in total. Feral cats and chickens scatter around every corner as you walk around the village. It’s almost like a movie set for “A Knight’s Tale.”

    I’m wiped after that mountain climb and a heavy “pilgrims dinner” of Galician soup, steak and frites, and a dessert of queso and honey.

    It is still snowing outside, but not sticking. Tomorrow is a trek downhill on the other side of this mountain. Hopefully through not as much mud as today. Night!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 29

    Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    386 miles done. 114 to go.

    Overcast day, but the cool weather was nice. Half of the walk today was out of Ponferrada in industrial areas and then suburban neighborhoods, leading to the hill country of vineyards and orchards.

    Took a nap once I got to town. And then had beers with a fellow pilgrim from Copenhagen who is now listening to the same audiobook I recommended to him… so, does that qualify as a book club meeting?

    Tomorrow is going to be slow. And uphill. And tough. I’m looking forward to it. Night!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 28

    Foncebadón to Ponferrada

    April 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 36 °F

    371 miles done. 129 to go.

    Some steep and very rocky trails to descend today into Ponferrada. 5.5 hours of being careful to not sprain an ankle with a wrong step is kind of exhausting! Gorgeous views again today. I’m at 75% of the way!

    I went to a highly rated Italian restaurant and ate my heart out. But I couldn’t decide between the risotto or the pizza… so I ordered both.

    The risotto with Gorgonzola cheese, sliced almonds, candied pear, emmental cheese, and crispy bacon?… heaven in a skillet.

    The pizza was chicken and pepperoni and bbq sauce on a super thin crust. It was delicious.

    But I was embarrassed that I only ate half of each. Because I really ordered two entrees that could have fed 4 people. So I asked for a to-go box. They packaged everything up perfectly and halfway through my walk home, I admitted to myself that 1) I have no refrigeration in my dorm-room size alburgue, 2) I have to be up in 8 hours to walk again, and 3) I’ve already pre-paid for breakfast tomorrow morning at my accommodation. So, I donated it to a trash bin.

    I really didn’t want to admit that I was ok being wasteful by ordering twice what I actually needed just to have some variety, and then I doubled down on this wastefulness by getting a to-go bag with all the packaging, just to then throw it away. Ugh.

    But now overstuffed and overwalked, I’m going to sleep. Night!    Read more

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