Maybe EuroVelo 8

April - July 2023
A 111-day adventure by Jay Read more
  • 25footprints
  • 7countries
  • 111days
  • 385photos
  • 3videos
  • 2.8kmiles
  • 624miles
  • Day 105

    Here’s Looking at You Kid

    July 23, 2023 in Palestine ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    The main room of Abraham Hostel in Jerusalem. You could meet anybody here. Think of anybody you can: any age or race, any religion or nationality, here for any reason and with any agenda. It is so cool. South Africa, Wales, Russia or Lexington Kentucky.
    These are ossuaries in which you too can store bones of your pre-deceased. They are thought to be from the early Christian period and are high end models. The location is prime, overlooking the Old City from the Mount of Olives, Gethsemane which is Aramaic for olive press. In this small grove are beautiful, grotesque ancient olive trees. Maybe a long time ago someone important was under one of these trees for a short while. Well they were tested for age in case it might be true. Turns out these youngsters were planted by Crusaders around 800 CE. Still making olives however.
    Over a bit is a still in use Jewish cemetery. These sites are also primo and passed down for generations. Now the view from here is sweeping, but not that the permanent residents here appreciate it much. That’s not the point. The point is getting a good seat, like for fireworks, for when the first or second coming occurs, depending on your belief. With resurrection, I suspect there is a bit of overlap of Christianity and Judaism where perhaps people think first in line is first in time. This would be the place it would happen it is theorized.
    In Israel the Big Olive is obviously Jerusalem. Quiet and pious. Contrast that with Tel Aviv where I have never seen more tattoos. It never sleeps. The average age isn’t more than 35. Shabbat is barely a speed bump, most people here are secular. You barely have time to sit down on the train ride between the two cities. In first street scene it’s just like any other day of the week. In the next scene it’s Shabbat in Jerusalem, lasting Friday night to Saturday night. On a Saturday in Jerusalem children can play on the train tracks with their parents. Absolutely nothing is open except, thankfully, restaurants in the Arab Quarter of the Old City. After that, Sunday will pick up like a Monday and the week starts all over again.
    Night falls in Jerusalem. Arabs have set off fireworks tonight for their high school graduation day. It’s time for me to go home. All the way home.
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  • Day 101

    Gate of Zion

    July 19, 2023 in Palestine ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    My Sar El buddy Allen (US Air Force) and I entered the old city through the Jaffa gate. There are six other named arch ways to get in through the walled city of Jerusalem. After an Israeli-ish breakfast at the hostel we walked a freedom unit (a mile) on that hot morning to get there. Soon the sun got so intense the only smart thing to do was to duck-and-cover for a while in a cafe. After all, sun is actual nuclear fusion in the sky.
    The Old City of Jerusalem is today divided unequally into the Arab Quarter (Muslim), Christian, Armenian and Jewish Quarters. Security is necessary and is kindly provided by the IDF (Israeli Defense Force) in green and civilian police in black. Sometimes there is violence like, not uncommonly, in certain other un-named countries. But here in The Holy City (not Brooklyn), it feels awkward.
    Boys and girls are conscripted into military service and are sorted according to their particular talents like at Hogwarts. I’ve met female helicopter crew chiefs and there are female fighter pilots. These particular girls in the picture must carry their weapons wherever they go in uniform whether on city busses or in town. After basic training they are allowed to have their uniform pants tailored to be more ‘conforming’. Hello Kitty and rhinestone phone covers sticking up from a rear pants pocket completes the look.
    The next four pictures are of the Western retaining wall left over from the Roman destruction of the second temple in 70 CE. The Romans were royally pissed off about persistent Jewish rebellions and had enough. The Jews simply couldn’t do Pax Romana like everybody else. The first temple built there (Solomon’s) was wrecked in 586 BCE by the Babylonians for a different reason. Read the non-upbeat Book of Lamentations about that unfortunate event.
    In this same series you can see the Men’s section at the wall. Women pray in a separate smaller divided section beside the Arab ramp in the second picture. I have seen a plastic chair heaved over the barrier into their section for why, idk. That’s all there is to it, except that the wall is the closest a praying Jew can get to the traditionally holiest Jewish place on earth, which inconveniently happens to be up that Muslim ramp under a gold Muslim dome. To be fair, the same place, not the rock, mind you, is the third holiest place on earth for Muslims after Mecca and Medina.
    In the next series, before Allen and I have lunch, is the inside of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The outside of it is a bit disappointing for its holy reputation, rather common looking in this town. But so is the Western wall. The church was built originally by the Byzantines in the 4th century (years over 300) and, you guessed it, was destroyed in 1009 CE like pretty much everything else throughout history. But it’s quite something inside now. Stunning, in fact. There is a lot going on religiously within the walls as well.
    The church is strictly controlled by the Roman Catholics, Armenian Apostolics (they got in early) and four other orthodoxies including Greek. They all have a kind of Mexican stand off between each other according to the so called Status Quo decree of 1757 CE.
    Nothing at all can be changed or altered in any way unless all six parties agree unanimously. This has led to a funny situation where a stone mason left his ladder propped up against the second story wall in 18th century and it can’t be moved. They all can’t agree what to do with it so it will remain forever there. I shit you not. But consider maybe the sects did actually secretly agree to play a little joke on us about their contentiousness.
    Now lunchtime. Left is falafel. Right is shawarma. A good falafel beats the best French fries you could have. Shawarma has to come with a basket of pita. You can get more. Both are hummus based. No surprise there. Stay hydrated.
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  • Day 99

    You’re in the Army now!

    July 17, 2023 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 95 °F

    The Holy City, The Big Pomegranate, it’s Jerusalem. Number two is Tel Aviv, secular, smart and electric, the Yin to Jerusalem’s Yang, opposite but connected. And then there is Haifa, getting about as much attention as a third child.

    Tel Aviv displays the Building Crane as the national bird. Beautiful first rate, high rise condominiums yanked straight up out of the ground by the boom arm. Each unit is worth millions and they’re building nonstop because they sell. A couple years ago Tel Aviv was the most expensive city in the world. Today it’s still third most expensive. With that wealth there’s going to be disparity. Tel Aviv has a poor ass end just like I saw in Liverpool and Tokyo. The smell of hot piss in the tree planters and daytime sidewalk sleepers. Flies on unconscious people in the entry alcoves of boarded buildings. Long black fingernails on thin dirty arms reaching out asking for shekels in a language I don’t understand. A woman with legs thin like pipe cleaners sits on a plastic chair smoking a hand rolled cigarette.

    Israel only became a country in 1948 and was immediately attacked. It was attacked again in 1967. Preceding those Arab attacks Jewish militias fought violently against British rule impeding a Jewish homeland. Plaques around town commemorate where skirmishes and individual heroism against the Brits happened. One I read was about a fighter smothering a grenade to save his mates.

    Bibi and his crew of heredi want more power for their legislative/executive branch agenda at the expense of the Judiciary branch. This upsets the expected balance of power in a country without a constitution to spell it out. Plus Bibi is under investigation for corruption by the same Judiciary he seeks to weaken. Regular Israelis oppose cheating like this and feel the government doesn’t listen. Protest rallies, we’ll call them, are coming to a head. So far super peaceful, even boring. We’ll see.

    A tourist coach bus picked us up at Ben Gurion Airport for the first week of volunteering. Our army base is nearby in the Tel Aviv area, We do inside work pushing around medical supplies. Sorting, labeling, counting, boxing of things like Foley catheters, tourniquets, bandages and atropine pens. We have Americans, Canadians, British, Hungarians, French, Belorussians, Serbians and more. Anyone may also be an Israeli citizen and live here. Bring your money if you’re thinking moving here.

    The soldier with the eye patch saw action in Lebanon and spent four years in the hospital. That wasn’t even the most interesting part. Everyone here seems so exotic I feel like a milquetoast. Women soldiers have a comfortable confidence. They work elbow to elbow with male soldiers and it looks great.

    The food is incredibly wholesome. Super creative vegetable recipes. Controlled protein portions. Kosher kitchen. Dairy utensils have a small hole in the handle to tell the difference. Two different sets of cafeteria trays and dishes as well to keep things separate and kosher. Breakfast and dinner are “dairy” meals. Lunch is a “meat” meal. As you know, vegetables are always parve. And yes, hummus is usually to be found.
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  • Day 98

    We’ll always have Crete

    July 16, 2023 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    It’s July and Athena/Piraeus Greece is the end of the bike trail that started early April in Malaga, Spain. Leaving Crete I rolled the bike onto a ferry from Heraklion, Crete to Piraeus, Greece. That’s the port for Athens. Many vessel types at port. All kinds vehicles and passenger groups clot up on the pier then pack into the boats. Ferries back into the dock coming in from sea, the stern of the ferry will open up where cars, trucks and people pour out and scatter like sow bugs from under a wood pile.

    The sun is always intense. It’s a given there won’t be rain, maybe never. Tourists like me will hide from around noon to 5:00. After dark the restaurants are busy and people crowd the streets through the night. A few days later I boxed the bike and we flew from Athens to Ben Gurion on El Al airlines. Security being their speciality.

    I’m working to understand Celsius. I’ve only ever lived with Freedom units - miles, AM/PM and Fahrenheit. It seems like the rest of the world has moved on, even the Brits are eyeing the door. Celsius to Fahrenheit, double it, add 32. 24hrs to 12 hrs, just subtract 2, you’ll see it. 100 kilometers is 60 miles, 60 mph is 100 kph.

    I pedaled from Tel Aviv to Caesarea a tough 45 miles sometimes pushing the rig through wadi, sinking in fine henna colored dust and over busted concrete and rock. Too much, the heat! Caesarea was the French Riviera of its day for the Roman upper crust. Here being what is now called The Levant. It must have been a rock’n good time. Plenty of water in the aqueducts (water is always the limiting factor), an amphitheater (still in use, but not pictured) and the beach, baby!

    Up near Caesarea, I stayed a couple of days in a hut in a lot in an unfinished neighborhood. There was Wi-Fi and all conveniences if a bit rustic. Look closely, the Van Gogh is tile work an artist just put out for people to see. Israel can be brilliant.

    After three nights it was time again to move on. Up at 04:30, the sky was lightening from india ink to cloudless pale blue. I pedaled back to Tel Aviv on the highway. I didn’t care about safety, I had to outrun the heat. I tied an Israeli flag I found around me and made it, no worries. A tel, as in Tel Aviv, is Hebrew for a built up hill, layer by layer, by successive occupation. Great for archaeology.

    Navigated directly to the enormous Abraham Hostel in Tel Aviv. Named Abraham I presume because he and Sarah are the singular founders of three major religions, Christianity, Islam, Judaism. Nobody is excluded. See the rooftop garden where your doobie won’t stink everything up. Also see the guy in the hat. My ear caught his English pronunciation for the words dahntahn, pahnd and shahr. You guessed it. Jackson lives four miles from where I grew up in Pixburgh. Always happens.

    Don’t want to ignore my mate from Wales, Steve. Also a Sar-El like me who will volunteer a week and tour Israel the rest. Good times meeting people at the hostel. Old guys sticking together, we who were born before color tv.
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  • Day 86

    Agia Galini on Crete in Greece

    July 4, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    If you don’t care where you go, you can’t be criticized for not planning well.
    From Athens I thought I could just ferry my bike to Cyprus (off the coast of Syria) so then would take another short ferry ride to Tel Aviv and not have to fly. The next available ferry seat to Cyprus was two weeks away. I jumped at it. Turns out none of it is actually possible. Syria is in civil war. Lebanon is collapsed. Israel doesn’t seem to want open boat routes from around the neighborhood. Alrighty then, I’ll party right here on Crete.

    High season in Agia Galini and the vacationers spill over everything. Couples and families with each other made this singleton feel bereft. For distraction the only donated book in English was a five novel Dick Francis anthology from the ‘60’s. I read four. Avoided the free Ouzo and Mythos brand beer so nothing to reveal there. Endured a couple of tough days resting poolside working on my fantastic tan and resisting such like.

    Nearby found the best little campground on the island called No Problem. A tent pitch costs only €13 (<$15) per night. It had everything, really did. Pool, a destination quality restaurant, mini-mart, a community kitchen and one Florida personal injury attorney with wife and kids from Orlando in a honking big rented RV.

    I am fascinated by the dilapidated and abandoned houses that shouldn’t be that way where they are. Those places kept me thinking about Diane Lane in Under the Tuscan Sun and Russell Crowe in A Good Year. But one thing that never changes over time is classic rude graffiti. Stay classy Greece!

    The young lady I’m hugging made the me a Greek eggplant dish. The flavor popped.

    In the end everything moves on so I pedaled North back across Crete to Heraklion, ferried overnight from there to Piraeus and booked a El Al flight to Tel Aviv.
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  • Day 83

    Greece 101

    July 1, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Greece, yup it’s nice. Flowed out of Albania across an unmarked boarder back into the EU and into the last of my visa free Schengen countries. There is a different vibe between Albania and Greece. Generally (emphasis added) speaking, some Greeks I spoke with think Albanians are thugs. Greece is Eastern Orthodox Christian from like forever and Albania used to be Christian but the Turkish Ottomans rearranged things Arabic. So that could be part of it but Albania is also thought to have a robust underworld syndicate operating around Greece. Not cool when Greece is trying to climb out of near default on what they borrowed from the Germans in the last decades. Such are neighbors.

    Down the Greek coast camping along the way. Immediately Greek writing makes everything look like a trigonometry exam or a scientific paper. The truck could be saying Free Taylor Swift Tickets or Take A Sandwich Please, idk.

    Along the coastal roads I followed the artistic work of this anonymous unsanctioned urban artist working in black, white and grey. My outlook on life would slip toward dismal if I didn’t occasionally get slapped back awake by accessible Street art. The shading must be tough to get right with a spray can.

    An oil facility (no photography please said the sign). Weird because I have hardly seen even one cloud that would interrupt solar power generation. Wind is often strong too. So much energy just lying around.

    Arrived in Piraeus, the port for Athens, and took an island hopping ferry ride that ended on Crete. Unknown to me at the time I would spend the next two weeks on this Greek island.

    P.S. What’s with all the Freda Kahlo? She was Mexican as I recall. For my money I’ll go with Georgia O’Keeffe instead if I wanted to make a statement.
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  • Day 61

    Albania, leave a goat, take a goat.

    June 9, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Albania is a place where you don’t trust most tap water. Not any water unless you actually see it squirting fresh out of the mountainside. It does in places and people stock up. Albania can’t afford EU standards just yet. But it’s the most authentic, open hearted place so far. The countryside is mountainous and polluted in places but if you squint to overlook the trash, it’s as pretty as anywhere. Biking down the coast, food prices got even cheaper than Croatia and Montenegro.
    Stayed at the secret beach two nights, danced, hiked and swam but it was time to go. Paid the Toyota pickup driver €15 to drive 2 km back up the wash to the road. Worth every cent. See video.
    There was the next 1000m climb then sunset in Mursi, Albania. As a note, very second the EU cell phone SIM card, and I, crossed into Albania my phone turned into a brick. No maps, no fine dining, no weather, no campsites. Getting late, real burnt and nowhere to hide to sleep to called over the chicken wire fence to a woman for advice. Not understanding a word of English, the next step was the pantomime. Fingertips touching together pointing for the peak of a tent sign. Then palms together sideways for the universal sleeping sign. Then deliver the wanting hangdog look and people understand in any language. The husband was called out and he answered with the equally universal “ C’mon on in!” arm sweep.
    Charades is even funnier in Albanish. We watched the domestic low budget versions of Who Wants to be a Millionare? (In Albanian Leks I guess) and Wheel of Fortune (no Pat or Vanna). We all ate well the fish he caught and the vegetables they were given. They had the one upstairs room for dining and bed and the downstairs for cooking and sanitary and where I slept that night. They were happy and generous and said no money. But I don’t always listen.
    Next night, same lack of tech wherewithal. Landed at the Shrine of Saint Barbara just before a rain. The sextant stopped by after a couple hours and I got the treasured permission to stay the night. What I didn’t realize was a lot. A regional shrine means people really come all day and night to donate, light a candle and pray. Among those is always a “scolder” who seems to delight calling out petty infractions. Had one of those in the middle of the night that needed set straight. I had the foresight to snap a picture of me with the sextant for proof but he got tired of debating first. I get the same type all day regarding road lane discipline where there isn’t a shoulder or even much road at all. Sometimes I get it even as to where the bike should locate when stopping at a fruit stand. These folks are not American level aggressive just for the pleasure of confrontation. They just seem interested in keeping their public universe in order.
    Next night, knackered again. Snuck off an intersection back up an access road. Sixteen beehives minding their own business and I did the same. Did you know they all come home at night and sleep together? The next working day doesn’t start until the sun hits the box then it’s - game on!
    Blazing colorful roadside wildflowers double in return the hope lost by seeing the things humans do.
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  • Day 59

    Albania

    June 7, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Albania is not in the EU and they don’t use, but will accept, the euro. This Albanian experience is only with the coast. From the beach the Greek inland of Corfu is in the distance and the heel of Italy is right across the Strait of Otranto and not a bad boat ride away. It’s definitely a different country. The poorest overall and an economic collapse within in the last thirty years. It suffered a nationwide Ponzi scheme bilking three quarters of the population to some degree. I’m told the interior is deserted of cars. Here on the other hand it’s lousy with early model Mercedes Benz’. They must come here from richer countries to live out the balance of their useful lives. They’re kept spotless. Within every short distance is a ‘lavazho’ where cars are detailed, mostly by the only men I’ve seen work at all. In the morning groups of threes and fours are sitting at cafes in front of half empty glasses of warm beer smoking hand rolled cigarettes. Not appearing unfriendly they just look out to the street and talk quietly.
    More Muslim, less Christian. Loudspeakers on the minarets call to prayer five times a day. Somebody’s donkey grazes roadside and a herd of sheep are heading somewhere. Three wheeled hay carts take advantage of a newly paved road we shared. The pollution makes me sad. Albanians do not drink their own water. Drinking water is all bottled. Faucet water is not trusted for internal consumption. I imagine not only because of biological contaminants but chemical contamination too. Like Flint. Uncollected piles of household type garbage mounds and surrounds the roadside bins. The greasy rancid smell like the dumpster in the alley behind a restaurant starts before you see it and lingers after you pass it.
    The sole construction method is wood forms filled with concrete and reinforcing bar. The whole building is created this one way, the column supports, the decks, stairs and walls. Poured all at once. Closing the structure in and the finish electrical and plumbing seem to then wait around for the shoemaker’s elves. But that’s when the big money has to be put up and investors have to decide to get serious or not. Mostly not, because the tourist economy is just not super strong compared to a better Croatia and is diluted with so many unfinished concrete bunkers waiting for tourist demand to push completion.
    It could happen. Just probably not by happenstance. There is beauty. The Mediterranean is translucent clear blue. It’s not real hot and there will be rain.
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  • Day 51

    Now this is a little bit of alright.

    May 30, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Weirdly blue water on the right. A surprising unnatural blue like seeing blue tinted contacts in someone’s eyes. Sunburn on my left arm. Rows of condos, brilliant white cubes stacked as they might have tumbled from a hand. Front decks fitted with glass panels and stainless railings. But some sidewalks are unpoured. Careful attention is required to walk along through the gravel and rebar spikes at ankle level. Remodeling contractors dump lumps of concrete and broken tile debris at midnight in the gaps between buildings. That’s what I saw in Split, Croatia.
    The Optika Anda guy is everywhere. Must be what Croatian Cool looks like. I’d add the classic casual wrap around neck scarf but we’re not in Italy anymore.
    I have to mention the roadside memorials I see here. They are always twenty- something boys. I don’t understand the language. I don’t know the why or how for them. For me, I’ve had my own experience. Every time I see one I lose focus on the white line paint that leads me down my side the road.
    A classic Citroen means the French are here. But mostly it’s the Germans in the middle of yet another world invasion. In the campgrounds I share with RVs, it’s usually German I hear out loud. EU vehicle license plates have identifying initials for the country of origin. I’ve seen thousands this trip. Other than the initials for the country I’m in, it is almost always a D for Deutschland or A for Austria. Rains a lot in both places so I’d get out too. Also it’s pretty cheap for to come and stay by the sea in Croatia.
    The other pictures are better landscapes than I deserve, a French friend, campsite pitches and the food that goes with this type of travel.
    Tomorrow I will cut through Dubrovnik as fast as I can. I mostly have trouble with traffic in big cities unless a there’s breakfast pastry that gives me the eye to pull over.
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  • Day 48

    S. Croatia panhandle, not like Pensacola

    May 27, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Crossed out of Slovenia then hugged the coast circuiting around the Istria peninsula. Camped on Krk Island. Then squeezed between the sea and the Velebit Mountains. Entered small towns, each marked with a shrine to the Virgin Mary. Equally constant are pastry shops that bring joy. Looking down a street and the statuary I guess Croatia has a bit of that ol’ Soviet Bloc feeling’ of the old Yugoslavia.

    Sometimes 10% or steeper climbs and drops once or twice during a riding day. One day also enjoyed 25 mph gusting headwinds. Too much for one day, far away from anywhere, drove into the brush by a concrete plant and sat for the night. Discretion is the better part of valor the expression goes. Better to avoid a dangerous situation than to confront it.

    Next morning, out of food and water there was the remainder of the climb. From nowhere, halfway up, out of the side of the mountain was this flowing fountain of cold drinkable water! Dedicated to Joseph II, Holy Roman Emperor of the Habsburg monarchy in late 1700’s. (in 1782 he announced his Edict of Tolerance that allowed Jews to practice freely so became called The Enlightened Despot by some) Thanks dude!

    Most seen roadside trash. Beer and an energy drink endorsed in Croatia by Bruce Willis.

    Down at sea level some of the Mediterranean is affordable to regular families. Maybe the industrial plant in the distance keeps real estate prices in check.

    Look at what else I saw in Croatia! A Pittsburgh Post Gazette recipe on the side of a seaside bodega.
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