Spain

Day 30
The hostel common room was busy last night, especially with a group of 8 or so youngsters eating together, and another group of 3 Italian men plus one Dutch guy: Italian men know how to look after themselves, don't you know?! They were cooking a superb spaghetti carbonara together, which made my individual vegetable omelette look measly (but it was delicious, and just as well as I had been schlepping the already cooked vegetables for two days in my rucsac, waiting to find eggs!). Sometimes, I think, it would be nice to be part of a meal group, but somehow I end up eating on my own. Am I too self-sufficient? Or too shy to invite someone to join me? Or too 'something' to be invited by others?

I then took a walk into the village and sauntered into the Museo Etnografico, just at the same time as Alfonso from the Netherlands. The lady assumed we were together, so he paid my ticket; in return I bought him a beer later. These easy get-to-know-you relationships are great, no complications, lots of simple openness and of course lots in common to talk about, even if only about sore feet, or the rain, or 'yes it's my first Camino' (or, '... my 4th' ... or, 'I have been coming every year since 1972'). I'm tending at this point to ask straight up what someone's 'Camino story' is, and mostly people answer something very ordinary like 'it's just a sport holiday', but sometimes I get to hear something more personal, and that is of course what I love. Jason, 23, Netherlands, rubix geek and self-taught/ self-motivated social researcher in their field of expertise, children's mental health services. Awe-inspiring personality and a lovely energy. Alan, US, second wife, downsizing, ' I have come to realise I like my life just as it is, simple, ordinary'. Dieuw, Netherlands, 'I want to be a mum, and I'm considering being a single mum'. Petra, Germany, 'I nearly packed it all in today ... do you want a hug?'

Slept rather restlessly and woke before 6, so decided to walk with the dawn and left the hostel before 7. Not that there was any sun to see; a day of cloud and rain, almost all day. Wet feet. Dry everything else, with my lovely umbrella (hmmm, do I need to give her a name? Suggestions please). Happy everything.

Entered Galicia! Ate lunch in a restaurant, a super delicious fish soup, with white wine, and shared a Pastel de A Fonsagrada dessert with Frank and Jürgen. Jürgen's dessert, that is to say, with three forks. (I'm gonna try that recipe at home; will you come and share it? Basically butter, eggs and almonds, with a splash of cognac. Soooo good.) AND Jürgen paid for my meal!

Upgraded to a single room at the hostel/ hotel, so I'm in bliss. I've put the heater on so I can dry my shoes out properly. That's about the level of interest in life for a pilgrim after a month of walking and a day of wetness. Bare necessities!

I'm very aware that I will arrive in Santiago in under a week. Walking 25km a day is normal, now, and 30 easy enough. My back is strong again. The journalling and painting has not done what I'd hoped, but that's okay. Perhaps another time? I've had no great revelations along the way, but I'm content with what is.
It's just me. This is it. Easy.

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