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Panamericana south

July 2019 - April 2020
with our trusted truck camper Esmeralda , we are driving south to Houston , ship the truck to Cartagena , Columbia and take off toward Patagonia. Read more
  • 42footprints
  • 6countries
  • 273days
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  • Panamericana south
    11
    Day 65

    mountain people we are!

    September 26, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We tried....realy tried to love the coast and la playas. But yet again we feel much better in the mountains.After a night in Caral, the oldest town in the americas, 5000 Years ago there was a huge civilization,just not as famous as egypt(which came later) building huge pyramids. We drove east of the panamericana, just to get away from the fog , the desolate pueblos and the weird feeling of closed up properties because its not main season
    We love the little town of Lunahuana,just the right size for us. If you wonder what Susanne is doing.... thats the typical position of a indigenous. Peeling Loquat/ Nisperos a lot of work for little reward.Most of the time four seeds to spit out. But tranquillo,thats the lifestyle here. Take it easy.....    Read more

  • Panamericana south
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    Day 67

    Extra terestrials or rituals?

    September 28, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    On our way towards Cusco we leave the coast again and stop at the desert town of Nasca . It is known for one phenomena - the Nasca lines. Figures and lines drawn in the sand are dated to be 2000- 2500 years old . And since most of them are only visible by plane ,scientists continue to discuss how and why they are made . Many are hundreds of meters long ,with the longest meassuring 30 km and they depict birds , animals,geometric shapes and some astronout like looking man. Yet another unsolved mystery. But the general impression remains with many of the oldest cultures in the americas, our school tought knowledge that the older things are the less refined , does not hold true .Read more

  • Panamericana south
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    Day 67

    Condors and Camelids

    September 28, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    We are backup on 4000meters,quite literally in the pampa. There is a small museum and a friendly ranger at reserva national de pampas galeras. While most people know the domesticated Camelids, Llama and Alpaca, the wild herds all arround us are the Vicunia and the slightly bigger Guanaco. The ranger drives us out into the pampa to show us the condors. Wow,what amazing creatures! We come back to the camper at sunset and the temperatures drop close to zero (32 F).Best time to bake a bread in our oven , we add some Quinoa to honor the Anden non wheat culture .Read more

  • Panamericana south
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    Day 74

    On the trail of the Incas

    October 5, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Cusco was the religious and administrative capital of the Inca Empire in ancient Peru between 1400 and 1534. Their Empire extended throughout South America, including regions of Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina. After a few days in Cusco,where we camp right next to one of the most fascinating Inca ruins , Sacsayhuaman . This archaeological complex has an area of 3,000 hectares and has the most beautiful walls. Even though the largest of the stones weigh over 300 tons, they are fitted perfectly. While there are no good ways to carbon date these structures , there are some indications that a pre incan culture built these structures. Carbon dating works only for organic materials found arround the structures and is highly inacurate. The famous example is ,that you loose your Iphone in a leather pouch at the 2000 year old coloseum in Rome. The Archeologists finding it 1000 years later would assume that the Coloseum builder made the Iphone.
    The walls of the most famous Inca city , Machupicchu , look much less sophisticated. After a challenging 5 day hike following ,whats called the high Inca trail, over the 4600meter high Salkantay pass, we reach Machupicchu. Our guide points out that , while most other sites are ruines ,destroyed by the Spaniards, Machupicchu is not. It was arguably only discovered in 1911 ,but never found by the spanish conquerors.    Read more

  • Panamericana south
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    112212
    Day 86

    Canyons,Condors and high dessert

    October 17, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Its almost 9am and the Condors have not shown themselves at the Mirador. We are at the Colca Canyon, the second deepest in the world (twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in the US ) .
    From Cusco we drove through high mountains ,along lonely lagunas with typical indigenous villages.
    We spent the night here at the Mirador having it all for ourselves. But in the morning bus after bus arrives and by 9 the place is packed with tourists,school classes and local visitors.
    But what a sight ,when they appear...these huge birds without moving the wings,with the wingspan of a small car, just lifted by the thermic.
    In the evening we find some hotsprings nearby, which are often a great place to spent a night (out in the quiet parkinglot after they close) .    Read more

  • Panamericana south
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    Day 89

    Arequipa to Titicaca

    October 20, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    From the clean, spanish looking, colonial town of Arequipa ,we conquer a last time the Peruvian Andes to the almost 4000m high Titicaca lake. This time a year the lake is about 3m lower then in January/February when the rains come. We spent 2days on a farm and hike the fields that will be underwater then.

    The famous floating islands on the lake are definitely worth a trip,and we enjoy the hospitality of a family that explains the traditional island living. The 3m thick islands are made of reeds and every 15 days new ones need to be added to the top to keep them swimming. People used to fish and collect eggs and also eat the inside of the reeds. Today they live still on the islands but live from the tourist boats coming to visit.    Read more

  • Panamericana south
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    Day 102

    Where to go - Chile or Bolivia?

    November 2, 2019 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    While we had planned to cross the boder into Bolivia on Titicaca lake , the elections happened just the day before . And possible irregularities caused wide spread demonstrations , roadblocks and strikes. We stayed in Peru a few more days and then decided to head south to northern Chile ,which had its own problems . A nationwide uprising after a public transit increase , one million people demonstrated in Santiago and the police showed brutal force, with 20 or more people killed. Arriving in Chile ,the nice beachtown of Arica , we felt relieved. This town felt like venice beach or San diego . Beautiful beaches , great markets to buy any food you missed and perfect roads. The cars actually stop at the pedestrian crossings (zebra stripes like intouching germany) , we have not seen this in a long time.
    During our drive down south along the coast, we see a demonstration and lots of burned tire marks , where people blocked the roads a week ago when the protest had climaxed. Chilenos love to camp and we find some beautiful beaches with weekend campers along the highway 1 ( it feels a bit like Hwy 1/Big Sur in California but even more remote... with real desert touching the ocean and no gas station for 200 miles.) But really , how do they swim in that freezing cold water ,while we walk arround in down jackets?    Read more

  • Panamericana south
    Day 109

    Green valleys and Stargazing

    November 9, 2019 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    After all the deserts in Northern Chile , the Equi valley feels especially good . Our campground , surrounded by vinyards and trees , this playground for astronomy students from the local University just feels good . "This is my favorite place in Chile . Enjoying the view of the lush vineyards and surrounding hills dotted with observatories makes my heart leap" says Susanne while watching the sunset. At night we had tours of the nightsky (appearantly one of the best in the world) and looks through the telescopes , and now we are again in awe about our universe....Read more

  • Panamericana south
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    Day 128

    Off to Argentina

    November 28, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    After 2 weeks in wintery germany ,we land again in the sunny Santiago hills . Before landing we see the highest mountain of South America from our plane . Next day we stop on the pass and border to Argentina , where the trail the Base camp to climb the Aconcagua . Argentina greets us with blue skys , municipal campgrounds and ? Music ! We hear beautiful music and walking a short way from our campsite, we find an elaborate stage ,barely lit by the parking lot lights. But what a program and all age groups are represented. Viva Argentina!Read more

  • Panamericana south
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    Day 134

    Mendoza and the wine region

    December 4, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After a week of spanish school in Mendoza , we got ourselves wrapped arround the past and the imperfect. And Suse tried her first Mate' , and we learned about the ceremonial love affair of passing the cup when meeting people. On the weekend we see people under trees at the creeks and in parkinglots making Asado ,the other argentine past time ,our spanish teacher explained it "as an exuse to get together and bbq all day" . Mendoza is a lively , joyful town and the largest wine region in Argentina just south of the city allows Napa valley like tours and tastings .We camp at rio Atuel ,which forms an impressive canyon.Read more

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