2023

A 284-day adventure by Jessica and Alex Read more

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2023 Traveler
Quito, Ecuador
May 15, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
We had one full day in Quito before we flew out to the Galapagos. We did our laundry and got SIM cards and then did a walking tour of the old town. Quito is the second highest capital city in South America, which makes walking around the city difficult, especially because it’s so hilly! We started at the cathedral which is a neogothic style building, constructed by the Spanish. We also visited some old colonial buildings which are now hotels and restaurants. Most of the buildings are built in the same style and have beautiful internal courtyards. We also tried some traditional Ecuadorian treats. One of the treats we tried was a hard Lolly which we had to pop in our mouth. It exploded and was full of liquor. These sweets made it easier for women to enjoy alcohol in public without people noticing. At the end of the tour we tried some famous Ecuadorian cacao and chocolate.

In the evening we met with our tour group and then went to dinner with our new friend called Luke.Read more
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Santa Cruz, Galapogas Islands, Ecuador
May 16, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
Our flight from Quito made a stopover and we waited onboard the plane until it took off again. We landed at Santa Cruz airport and took a boat and bus to our accomodation. Santa Cruz island is the busiest and most commercial of all the islands. There are plenty of sea lions and aquatic iguanas along the shoreline. In the afternoon, we visited the Charles Darwin centre, which is home to the different species of Galapagos tortoises. It was interesting to see how the different tortoises had adapted differently depending on which island they were from. On the way back from the centre we stopped to watched the sea lions being fed scraps by the fisherman. For dinner, we went with our group to enjoy fresh tuna and soup.Read more
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Isabella, Galapogas Islands, Ecuador
May 18, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
We arrived on Isabella island early in the morning and after checking in to our accomodation, we began our volcano truck up Sierra Negra. It was an easy hour or so up hill and at the top there was a giant crater, full of black, lava rock. The rock in the crater was too hot to walk in and also unstable. Many people have gone missing after the ground caved in.

After the hike we all went to the beach for a swim. The water was warm and the beach was quite nice but nothing to write home about. So after a quick swim, Alex and I hired bikes and rode out to the flamingo lake. There were around 20 pink flamingos fishing in the lake.

In the morning, we took our bikes out towards the wall of tears, which is about a 6km bike ride along the coast. We saw around 6 giant tortoises eating on the side of the road. At the end of the track, we climbed up to a view point and ate
our breakfast. On the way back we stopped at the beach to see the bright red crabs, iguanas and pelicans resting on the black rocks along the shore.

Next we boarded a small boat and headed out for our excursions to La Tunnels. I was looking forward to this snorkel trip the most but unfortunately it was too rough to get all the way there. So instead, we visited a different area which had plenty of giant turtles, sharks and rays. The journey was extremely rough and scary but on the way we stopped at a rock which had a few of the blue footed boobies.Read more
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San Cristibal, Galapagos Islands, Ecuado
May 21, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
We spent one more night in Santa Cruz before transferring over to our last island, San Cristobal. San Cristobal is absolutely full of sea lions. The whole place stinks of fish!
When we arrived we visited the interpretation centre, which was a museum about the history of the Galapagos. Then we went for a snorkel, but the water was still quite rough so we only really saw fish. In the afternoon we relaxed in the beach but the weather wasn’t fantastic.

The next morning it was bright and sunny so we started the day by visiting Darwin Bay. It was so beautiful and there was heaps of sea life amongst the black rocks and caves. We were lucky enough to swim and play with about five sea lions, who swam in circles around us for about half an hour! It was the best that we had experienced on the Galapagos!! That night, we all went out to a club with our guide. It was a fun night as our tour group is full of really cool people all around our age.

After lunch, we visited La Loberia, a nice beach in the other side of the island. We relaxed amongst the sea lions on the sand before heading back for our last dinner together with our group.

On our final morning we were transferred to the airport pretty early. On the bus, our guide gave me a birthday cake which I had to eat very quickly! Luckily, Alex and I were able to go into the lounge at the airport because we have black Mastercards. We were stoked to find out that they are actually accepted at heaps of airport lounges around the world!Read more
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Sacha Yacu Centre, Amazon, Ecuador
May 24, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ 🌧 25 °C
After spending the night in Quito, we caught the bus down to a town called Poyu, which was an hour taxi ride away from the wildlife centre. When we got there we were greeted by a group of (very) young people smoking weed, and shown our room. We are sleeping in a dorm room with three other Israeli girls. The accomodation is extremely basic but luckily the mosquito nets help keep out creepy crawlies.

On our first day, we had a tour of the grounds with the coordinator, Rose. She showed us the different animals which include a baby anteater, an ocelot, lots of different birds and monkeys and some turtles. After lunch we helped move sand to build a new enclosure but it absolutely bucketed down while we were working. Then, we dug for worm to go fishing in the lakes for small fish to feed the ocelot.

The next morning after breakfast we helped prepare the food for the animals. They eat so well with a fresh fruit salad every morning. Then, I went with another volunteer, Olivia, to feed the birds and monkeys. We had to be careful of Fredrick the monkey as she had attacked another volunteer yesterday. In the afternoon we trecked out in to the jungle to chop down banana trees for the animals. Alex had to go and move more sand bags for the new enclosure. Three times a day, a baby anteater called Camilla needs to be fed. She’s super cute and snuggled right into the back of my neck. This is because ant eaters stay in their mothers back for almost two years.

On friday, we only have Jobs in the morning. After preparing the fruit for the animals. Alex and I fed the parrots and the macaw, Stephania the monkey and the turtles. In the afternoon, one of the longer term volunteers Bjorn, took us on a hike into a canyon with a waterfall. It was an amazing walk and we had to climb up a few flowing waterfalls so it was quite challenging. In the evening we had a bonfire and made bread on the fire.

We went into a local town on Saturday for the night. It was a pretty depressing city but we did get some wifi to plan our trip after Ecuador. On Sunday evening we headed back to the park with only two other volunteers. Monday was our last full day and because we were now such a small group, there was lots to do. Alex and I were also on cooking duty which was relatively easy for only four people.

Unfortunately on Monday Alex was scratched by an anteater, so before catching the bus back to Quito, we also hunted around Puyo, looking for the rabies vaccine. We were unsuccessful so we have to get it in Mexico!Read more
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Cancun and Tulum, Mexico
June 1, 2023 in Mexico
We arrived in Cancun and headed straight to the doctor to get Alex’s rabies vaccine. It was quite easy but he requires 5 doses over the next month. Our accomodation is quite near the hotel district and is good because it has a kitchen. Since Cancun is sooo expensive, it’s been great to be able to cook our own food.

To be honest, we weren’t massive fans of Cancun. We visited the beach which was nice, but small. Most of the beaches are privatised by hotels and resorts. On our second day we found a cheap rental car, which was great because we could do a trip to Playa Del Carmen. Playa del Carmen is a slightly smaller and quieter area than Cancun but most of the beaches are still private. Still, we found a beach to have lunch and a swim. Unfortunately, some of the Caribbean coast is currently being affected by sargassum, which is when lots of seaweed washes up on shore. So the water wasn’t as clear and as nice as normal.Read more
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Tulum, Mexico
June 5, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ 🌧 29 °C
On our final day in Cancun, we got Alex’s second rabies shot and picked up Michelle from the airport. Then we headed down to Tulum. Our accomodation in Tulum was so nice. A two bedroom, brand new apartment with a beautiful roof top pool. In Tulum we spent time in the town and at the beach, but like Cancun, it was affected by sargassum and also expensive. Luckily, we had a great kitchen to cook in.

We also visited a ceynote called ‘Two Eye’. It was made up of two covered ceynotes which were connected by a cave. We did a tour through the ceynotes and swam in the crystal clear water.Read more
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Bacalar, Mexico
June 8, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 37 °C
Our next stop was 2.5 hours south of Tulum, a lakeside town called Bacalar. Bacalar is a small town, but many tourists visit for its beautiful lagoon, which is the most beautiful turquoise colour. We spent the afternoon at the pier and in the lagoon which to our surprise was fresh water and lovely and warm.

The next day we visited Bacalar rapids, which was pretty much a beach club located on a narrow part of the lagoon. The water was crystal clear and fast flowing, which meant that you float down on your back. The river was lined with stogomites, which are the longest living organisms in the world.

On our final day, we visited Azul cenote. It was a dark blue, deep cenote and a really nice temperature. The afternoon was spent back at the lake before our early morning ferry over to Belize.Read more
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San Pedro, Belize
June 9, 2023 in Belize ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
From Bacalar, we caught a two hour ferry across to San Pedro in Belize. San Pedro is a beachside, tourist area. Unfortunately it was also affected by the sargassum just like Mexico so it smelt pretty bad. On our first day, we hired a golf buggy and headed out to Secret Beach. Here, there were plenty of beach side bars where you could sit in the ocean and order drinks. Some American tourists also gave us their floaties, so we spent the afternoon floating around and drinking cocktails.

The next day we went out on a snorkel trip. The first stop was to Shark Alley, where we got to snorkel with dozens of nurse sharks. They were so close that we could touch them. Our guide fed the sharks which attracted them all around us - it was scary but so so amazing.

Our next stop was over to Caye Caulker, which is a tourist island with no roads, only shops, cafes and bars. It was extremely hot here so we just had lunch and visited some of the shops.

The last stop of the trip, we stopped at Hol Chan, which is part of the barrier reef out from Belize. It is the second largest barrier reef in the world. The snorkelling was so amazing and our guide let us stay out for an extra hour, so we got to see so many different animals at sunset.

The next day we decided to do another snorkelling trip out to Mexico Rocks and Coral Gardens. This trip wasn’t as good as our guide was quite rushed - but we still got to see lots of brightly coloured fish and coral.

Our final day, we caught the ferry back to Bacalar and picked up our car.Read more
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Lima, Peru
June 19, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
After saying goodbye to Michelle at Cancun airport, we flew into Lima quite late at night. We spent our first day wondering around the city, which has an awesome variety of cafes and restaurants. Lima has 3 of the top ten restaurants in the entire world and although we didn’t get the chance to visit any of them, we really enjoyed the food we tried in the city.

The next day, we did a walking tour of the city. We visited some of the historical sites in the colonial city, including a number of Catholic Churches. The last church we visited had catacomb tunnels, which were full of human bones, organised according to which type of the body they were.Read more
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Cusco, Peru
June 20, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
We spent the first day in Cusco acclimatising to the altitude, which is over 3000 feet. We took a walking tour around the city which was particularly interesting as there was a huge festival on. The Peruvians were celebrating the beginning of winter, so the streets were full on dancing and music and thousands of people. On the tour, we visited different Inca streets and learnt about the merging of two cultures (and religions) in this part of Peru.

The next day we took an ATV tour out to see Mora Mora and the salt mines. Mora Mora is an Inca site, which was believed to be used for agriculture. In the evening we met up with our group for the Inca trail. They gave us a small duffel bag, to fit the five kgs of equipment we were allowed. So after packing, we got an early night ready for the hike.Read more
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Inca Trail and Machu Picchu, Peru
June 26, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Day 1: we were picked up at 5.30am and after picking up the others we headed to Ollytamba for breakfast. After breakfast we started the trek. Day 1 was was quite easy. We stayed mostly as a group and had many rests. There were plenty of Inca sites on the way so our guide explained the significance of each. At lunch we met our porters and chefs. There were 20 porters for our group and lunch was amazing! 3 courses of delicious Peruvian food! The afternoon trek was also relatively easy, with only a few inclines but I was very nervous for day 2, because the altitude made even easy walking tricky. When we arrived at camp, we were surprised to find our campsites set up with warm water to wash ourselves. In the evening we have tea time (tea and snacks) followed by another three course dinner. It was so impressive to see what the porters could do in such a short amount of time.

Day 2: We have been warned that this day was the hardest on the trail and it was definitely true. We began the climb with a fairly gradual incline through a cloud forest. The scenery was really beautiful. Although our guide said the first part of the day would take two hours, it took our group less than half that time. This was the same for the next section of the hike, so I was becoming less worried. Then came the final climb. This took much longer and was much much steeper. In took us around 2 hours to climb to ‘dead woman’s peak’, which sits 4200 feet above sea level. We waited a couple of hours at the top for the rest of the group to make it up and also to take some photos. We then had to walk down about 500 feet to our next campsite. Although this was much easier on the lungs, the steep decent was painful on our knees and feet. After we reached camp, we had a meeting with the porters, where we learnt about their work. Our guide told us that although a world record for the fastest Inca trail time was beaten recently by a Norwegian (12+ hours), the porters can complete the entire trail in less than 4. He also said that Porters may not exist in the future as it is not a well paid job in Peru.

On the third day of the trail, the scenery was so beautiful. Although we still had some steep climbs and descents, the snowy mountain views were so lovely. This day was also the longest. We started hiking around 5.30am and didn’t get to camp until around 5pm.

On our final day of the Inca trail, we were woken at 3.30am to pack up and leave camp. This is so the porters are able to catch the only train back into town. We hiked in the dark along the mountain edge, until we finally reached the sun gate just before dawn. We had a beautiful view of Machu Picchu, so we waited close by until the sun rose over the ruins. We still had a little way to hike down to the main entrance.

When we reached Machu Picchu, we had our tour and learnt about the history of the sacred city. It was amazing how well restored the ruins are, even though thousands of people walk on them every day. Our guide thinks that Machu Picchu might be closed for tourist to walk through soon.

After our tour of Machu Picchu, we had lunch in Aguas Caliante and then caught the train back to Ollytambu. The train had windows on the roof, so we could see the snow capped mountains.

To end our trip, we had a night out with our group in Cusco which was lots of fun!Read more
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Paracas, Peru
June 27, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
After spending a night in Lima, we were picked up by the Peru Hop bus early in the morning. We stopped for lunch at a weird theme park thing, where we watched a horse do a dance. We then played Guinea pig tombola and Alex won some bread. It was all very strange.

We reached Paracas in the afternoon. First we did a pisco sour class and learnt how to make the traditional cocktail of Peru. Then we joined a sunset hike in the desert. Paracas is beautiful, because it’s where the red desert meets the Pacific Ocean. The scenery at sunset is unreal. Paracas itself was quite dead. We were expecting more of a party town, but there wasn’t really much going on.

In the morning, we got on a boat and headed to Isla Ballestas (poor man’s Galapagos). We couldn’t get off the boat here but we saw sea lions, penguins and dolphins.

Before leaving paracas, we did a bus tour of the National park to see the desert and ocean scenery again.Read more
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Huacachina, Peru
June 28, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Next, we spent a night in a desert oasis called Huacachina. It’s a small town set at the bottom of towering sand dunes. In the evening we joined a sand buggy tour. The drivers were insane. We were flying up and down the dunes and racing the other buggies. We then had a couple of goes at sand duning. The first time was just a practise but the next go was crazy. I forgot to brake so I was flying down a long steep dune and crashed into the others at the bottom.Read more
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Arequipa, Peru
July 1, 2023 in Peru ⋅ 🌙 15 °C
After spending a very non eventful day in Nazca (Gerard did a flight to see the Nazca lines), Alex and I took an overnight but to the city of Arequipa in the south of Peru.

We really enjoyed Arequipa as it’s a beautiful white city, full of tourist shops and good restaurants. We spent a few days wandering around the city and then we did a day trip to Colca Canyon, which is the second deepest canyon in the world. It is twice the depth of the Grand Canyon!

On the trip, we stopped to watch the Andean condors. They are huge scavenger birds with a wingspan of up to 3 metres! We visited the viewing point of an active volcano, which is 5000 metres above sea level. The air was very thin!Read more
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Lake Titicaca, Peru
July 4, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
We had two stops on Lake Titicaca. The first was the city of Puno, which was a surprisingly big city with plenty of historical streets and good restaurants. It is said to be the gateway to Lake Titicaca. In the afternoon, we took a boat trip to the floating islands. These are man-made islands in the middle of the lake. The indigenous people make the islands by weaving reeds. The owners demonstrated how the islands were made and showed us where they lived. Although it was freezing on the island, it is unsafe for the families to have fires for cooking or keeping warm. They also have to change the flooring by adding dry reeds, two to three times a month!

The next day we crossed to the Bolivian side of the lake, to a town called Copacabana. Here, we took another boat trip out to the sun island, which was named by the Inca people. We did a short hike on the island and visited some of the Inca sites before returning to turn. That evening, we crossed the lake by ferry to reach La Paz in Bolivia.Read more
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La Paz, Bolivia
July 4, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Although Bolivia has a few capitals, La Paz is said to be the highest in the world.
The city is bustling with markets, people and cars. It’s hard to walk around as there are so many hills and the altitude makes it even more tiring.

On our first day in La Paz, we explored the city. The first place we visited was the witches market, which is a creepy street market which sold goods for witchcraft, including gross alpaca foetuses used for sacrifices. In the evening, we went to watch the Cholitas wrestling. This was women dressed in traditional clothes ‘wrestling’ each other. Although it was fake, it was still entertaining and fun to watch. At the show, we met a Swedish couple, so instead of catching the bus back to the city, the four of us caught the cable car. It was beautiful to see the city at night, but the cable car was SO high and scaled one of the cliffs in the city. When we got back to La Paz, we went for dinner at a local wine bar.

On our final day in La Paz (after a day of being sick), we caught an overnight bus to Uyuni for our salt flat excursions.Read more
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Uyuni salt flats, Bolivia
July 10, 2023 in Bolivia ⋅ 🌙 -3 °C
Our tour started with us running around one of the highest deserts on earth, looking for an immigration stamp. See, Australians need a visa for Chile (where this tour ends) which costs $200 and takes around 20 days to process. We had only planned this trip a few days earlier. That’s okay though, because I have a New Zealand Passport and Alex can enter on his Japanese passport (or so we thought). Our guide was concerned as the entry stamp for Bolivia was on his Australian passport. So he called his ‘friend from immigration’ who said we needed to come and see him for a chat. So we jumped in a taxi with our guide and drove to a random neighbourhood to find this random friend. We ran around banging on random people garages but couldn’t find the right house. We were about to give up when we heard someone yell out from a balcony. Hellelujiah! We had found said friend. He came downstairs dressed in his Panama’s with an ‘immigration’ hat on. He told Alex that he needed to pay around 100 dollars to get an entry and exit stamp on his Japanese passport. We gave him the money and he said he would change the dates on the system (yeah right!).

Finally we were ready to start our tour. Our first stop was a train graveyard, where we looked at old rusty trains. Not that exciting. After lunch and a lot of driving we arrived at the salt flats. They were beautiful and spanned as far as the eye could see. We spent some time there exploring the salt hotel and taking photos. We then visited an old island, which was located in the middle of the salt flats. In the evening we stayed at a hotel made entirely of salt. It was interesting but painfully cold - I think it got down to negative 10 degrees!!!!

The next day we visited different sites including a frozen lake full of flamingoes. We skimmed rocks across the ice and smashed holes in the lake with rocks. For some reason, this was very entertaining. Then we stopped to see wild llamas and alpacas in a beautiful field with frozen creeks weaving through the grass. Then we stopped at the red lake. Which was a lake of dark blue, white and red. The red was created from the same algae that flamingoes feed on. So there were lots of flamingoes here as well. Our last stop for the evening was at an altitude of 5000 metres to see the giesers. These were a whole heap of holes in the ground with boiling mud and steam. It was super interesting to see this alongside the ice puddles.

After checking into our hotel and having dinner we headed down to the hot springs close by the hotel. They were super hot and it was lovely to sit in the pools and look at the stars which were soo clear in the sky.

The next day, we visited a few lakes before heading across the border to Chile. Alex had to go into a room and pay even more money. But when we finally reached the border we headed through without any issues!Read more
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San Pedro, Chile
July 12, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 8 °C
Our tour finished at a small town in the north of Chile called San Pedro. The town is built on dirt roads in the middle of the desert. The night got very cold but the days were lovely and sunny.

Many people visit San Pedro for the desert and astronomy tours but we felt we had already seen enough of the desert so we mostly relaxed in our accomodation and walked around town. I quite liked the vibe of the area but Alex didn’t like San Pedro. After four days we were definitely ready to move on!Read more
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Santiago, Chile
July 14, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Who knows what happens here. We didn’t leave our apartment for 3 days…

We DID have an earthquake here though! We were lying in bed and I felt shaking. I thought Alex was scratching vigorously but upon inspection, I realised we were in an earthquake on the 10th floor of a building! No one else seemed to care and I read it’s a pretty common occurrence. Still, I dressed myself quickly incase we needed to evacuate (we didn’t).

Apart from that, we went to a cafe once and the grocery store and then watched Netflix. I don’t even have any photos!Read more
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Vancouver, Canada
July 19, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 17 °C
We arrived in Canada via Texas around midday and spent the rest of the day relaxing after the overnight flight. We were staying in an Airbnb in West Vancouver. It was just a basic apartment under a beautiful house with the most colourful garden!

In the morning we went for a long walk, along the coastline, through a lovely park with the same beautiful gardens as our house. Then, we crossed the bridge over to Stanley park. We walked around the park a bit and then continued on into the city for a bit of shopping.

Next we hired a car and the following morning, we picked mum up from the airport and headed to Whistler!Read more
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Ketchikan, Alaska, USA
July 27, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 14 °C
We docked early in the morning at Ketchikan. We didn’t have any excursions booked, so we went ashore and booked a tour of the town. The first stop on the tour was a river full of salmon. It is the beginning of the salmon run season so there were hundreds of salmon swimming upstream in the river. We stopped again at a beautiful waterfall and we were able to briefly walk through the forest. It looked like a fairy forest, with bright green moss growing across all the surfaces. Next, we stopped at the beach, to look for seals and eagles. We saw lots of adult and juvenile bald eagles but didn’t see any seals. Our last stop was at the National park to look for bears. Unfortunately there were none so we headed back to town.

After the tour, we walked around the old town. Which is a historical area built on stilts above the river. We walked around and looked at the shops for a bit before getting back in board. As the ship was leaving the port, we spotted a seal while sitting at the bof!Read more
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Juneau, Alaska, USA
July 27, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
Today we went ashore without a booked excursions but when we arrived in town we booked whale watching for the afternoon. We looked around the town, which had 4 cruise ships in port! It was built on cruise tourism and mum and Alex bought some souvenirs. In the afternoon we boarded the bus to go whale watching. On the way out we stopped at the Mendenhall Glacier which can be seen from many vantage points around town. We were also super lucky and saw a black bear with her two cubs.

Once we got to the marina, we boarded our boat and headed out to see the whales. It wasn’t long until we spotted plenty of humpbacks. The highlight was our first stop, where we saw 10-15 whales bubble netting. This phenomenon only happens in Juneau and only for a few weeks of the year. The whales catch their fish by creating a spiral of bubbles while the leader approaches from below and scoops up the fish. Our second stop was to watch a few more whales feeding and diving. This group got quite close to our boat! Unfortunately it was difficult to photograph the bubble netting to accurately depict its awesomeness!Read more
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Norwegian Jewel, Alaska Cruise
July 28, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
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Skagway, Alaska, USA
July 29, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 12 °C
Today we had our last stop for the cruise in Skagway. Today we had to use the tenders to get ashore. Once we got to town we had to hunt around for free wifi so that I could check the details for our booked tour.

Skagway is a scenic area, famous for the Whitepass. We drove up to the pass and on the way stopped at a few vantage points.Read more
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