Plus one solo in Europe

November - December 2023
Travel. Not to find yourself. But to discover who you've been all along. Norway - England - Belgium - Germany - Austria - Italy - Switzerland - France - Turkey - Greece - Cyprus - Egypt. Read more
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  • 15countries
  • 36days
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  • Day 6

    The Northern Lights from Norway

    November 8, 2023 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 1 °C

    The Northern Lights. Confession. Despite being a student of science most of my life, I needed to consult Googlay (the Nordic reference for Google) to understand it.

    I knew it was polar / magnetic related. Though that's my limit of understanding. I've included reference to the science below.

    What the science doesn't explain is the ethereal magic and splendour of mother nature's greatest show. I am infinitely grateful and reminded again of how wonderous our world really is. To see the Northern lights in real time. Not out of a National Geographic or with narration of David Attenborough (as much as I could listen to Richard narrate any natural wonder. Along with Morgan Freeman. Gosh life would be lovely with them explaining it every step of the way).

    With infinite gratitude.

    The Science:

    https://www.rmg.co.uk/stories/topics/what-cause…

    What is the aurora?

    The aurora can be seen near the poles of both the northern and southern hemisphere. In the north the display is known as the aurora borealis; in the south it is called the aurora australis.

    These 'northern' and 'southern lights' have fascinated, frightened and inspired humans for centuries. More recently, photographers have gone to remarkable lengths to try and capture the beauty of these atmospheric events.

    What causes the Northern Lights?
    An aurora is one of the most spectacular displays in the night sky - but how are these curtains of colourful light formed?

    See the world's greatest space photography
    The aurora borealis, also known as the 'northern lights', is one of the most spectacular displays in the night sky. What is the science behind these curtains of light?

    The sight filled the northern sky; the immensity of it was scarcely conceivable. As if from Heaven itself, great curtains of delicate light hung and trembled. Pale green and rose-pink, and as transparent as the most fragile fabric, and at the bottom edge a profound and fiery crimson like the fires of Hell, they swung and shimmered loosely with more grace than the most skilful dancer. Lyra thought she could even hear them: a vast distant whispering swish.

    Phillip Pullman, His Dark Materials
    What is the aurora?
    The aurora can be seen near the poles of both the northern and southern hemisphere. In the north the display is known as the aurora borealis; in the south it is called the aurora australis.

    These 'northern' and 'southern lights' have fascinated, frightened and inspired humans for centuries. More recently, photographers have gone to remarkable lengths to try and capture the beauty of these atmospheric events.

    See spectacular aurora photography at the Astronomy Photographer of the Year exhibition

    What causes the aurora borealis or 'northern lights'?

    The lights we see in the night sky are in actual fact caused by activity on the surface of the Sun.

    Solar storms on our star's surface give out huge clouds of electrically charged particles. These particles can travel millions of miles, and some may eventually collide with the Earth.

    Most of these particles are deflected away, but some become captured in the Earth’s magnetic field, accelerating down towards the north and south poles into the atmosphere. This is why aurora activity is concentrated at the magnetic poles.

    “These particles then slam into atoms and molecules in the Earth’s atmosphere and essentially heat them up,” explains Royal Observatory astronomer Tom Kerss. “We call this physical process ‘excitation’, but it’s very much like heating a gas and making it glow.”

    What we are seeing therefore are atoms and molecules in our atmosphere colliding with particles from the Sun. The aurora's characteristic wavy patterns and 'curtains' of light are caused by the lines of force in the Earth’s magnetic field.
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  • Day 7

    Tromso: Reindeer farm & Sami Culture

    November 9, 2023 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    No day has been the same in Norway so far, though a sure bet is the plummeting temperature and darker days as we traverse further North. The sun set around 1500 during our visit to Bodo today.

    An exceedingly early start for me, sometime around 0430. I emerged around 5. Desperately seeking coffee. I ran into a lovely Canadian lady at the coffee machine. From Vancouver no less. She saved me with some half and half milk in my Americano coffee pour. The alternative was powdered creamer. I'd rather not.

    Perhaps it was the Norwegian milk. Perhaps the Northern lights are radioactive. But I managed a 16km run on board the ship before breakfast.

    A more subdued morning refuelling before a terrific afternoon at a Reindeer farm and Sami cultural experience.

    Bucket of reindeer feed in hand, I approached the herd. Although a wild herd, (all farmed reindeer are herded by the Sami people - Indigenous to the North of Norway / Finland / Sweden / Russia), they were tame and are very accustomed to human interaction. I named the beautiful young buck who'd decided I was a safe bet Twistie. Because one of his antlers was twisted. I'm original like that.

    An older, bigger buck with menacing antlers tried to push in. I narrowly escape an antler in places I'd rather not mention.

    My revenge was swift as shortly afterwards, I tucked into a bowl of reindeer stew. It was delicious. Tender, not at all gamey. Low fat and purportedly more Omegas than salmon. Sorry Rudolph. #notsorry. #ChristmasGrinch. Photos were challenging as I wanted free hands to ensure antlers did not cause further injury.

    The balance of our time here was spent learning about the Sami people (indigenous to Norway, Finland, Sweden, Russia), their culture, history and relationship with the land, and the only group that can herd and commercialise reindeer for meat.

    A beautiful, albeit freezing afternoon. The attached video was filmed with permission.

    The Sami:

    https://nordnorge.com/en/tema/the-sami-are-the-…

    In the far north of Europe, ancient sounds, unique craftwork traditions, and a particular language live side by side with modern technology. The Sami culture is the oldest culture in large areas of Northern Norway and is currently experiencing a strong renaissance.

    The Sami people live in four countries: Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia. The total population in these four countries is estimated at approx. 80,000, of whom around half live in Norway. Slightly under half of these people talk Sami. In Norway, the Sami people in Norway live in almost all parts of Northern Norway, and in the southern parts of the country in Trøndelag and Femundsmarka in Hedmark.
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  • Day 8

    Honningsvag and The North Cape

    November 10, 2023 in Norway ⋅ 🌬 3 °C

    Honningsvag. I'd like to think I was mature enough not to contemplate who Honnings is / was and how she got an entire town named after her lady parts. But I'm not. Petulance aside, I mean no disrespect.

    My last day in Norway and a night of nursing interventions to hold at bay a looming infection / fever. Some self care, antipyretics and honey / lemon tea saw me rallying and joining a tour to The North Cape - the northernmost part of Europe.

    The sun sets in this region for good on 22 November, appearing once again on 22 January. Definitely not a way I could live.

    I questioned my decision making shortly after the attached video was filmed when evidently, my medication wore off and the fever returned. I found the bus driver and collapsed onto my seat on the bus, awaking only to return to ship and sleep / sweat fitfully the balance of the day. I'm really crook. Missing home even more and due in London 11/11.

    The Northern Cape. A destination I should've given a miss, though my fever has now broken. I want my sister and her beautiful soups more than anything.

    #ratnegative.
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  • Day 9

    Kirkenes & ha det bra Norway

    November 11, 2023 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ -3 °C

    My final day in Norway. Armistice day. The significance of travelling to the United Kingdom on this day is not lost to me, and I carefully pin the poppies I'd purchased in Melbourne from an RSL volunteer on my new neck warmer thing. I pause at 11.11, Norwegian time, and express in silence my gratitude for the privileged life I enjoy. For the sacrifices generations before us made willingly for our country. For their fellow man. For our allies.

    Gratitude is needed in spades today as my (self diagnosed) sinus infection threatens to truly take hold. I've slept most of the preceding 24 hours and fever held only at bay with nurofen / paracetamol. I really want my own bed. I'm torn between regret at attempting this journey, feeling sorry for myself, and being cross at me for my self-indulgence. I'm not a good patient.

    I take the only viable option. For want of a more apt phrase on this day of remembrance, I soldier on and remind myself of my why. Why I chose this adventure in the first place and what I still have to learn. I review my travel itinerary again, and I'm excited once more for what is to come.

    Still missing home. Still missing my family and friends. Though reminded I'm home in 4 weeks today, and I may never get this opportunity again. I'll do my best to savour the journey.

    Ha det bra Norway.
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  • Day 10

    United Kingdom. #convictreturned

    November 12, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Though my flight from Tromso, Norway, on W!zz Airlines (I was nervous!) arrived 30 minutes early to London, Luton airport (how very proper to be ahead of schedule), the shitshow to clear customs ensured sleep and I would meet sometime closer to 0130.

    My comment to customs officials in the hour long queue "It's almost like you weren't expecting any planes to come in" didn't bode well, and I'm not sure my exhausted laissez-faire commentary is appreciated. Again. Cup of f*cks. Empty.

    I arrive at my lovely hotel, Novotel West London, somewhere around 0100 after an hour long and $200 taxi fare. They do, however, drive on the proper (left) hand side of the road here, and it looks a little like some parts of Melbourne. I'm very appreciative of the lotus biscoff on offer and wonder why anyone would choose a Tim Tam over one of these babies. A perfect bedtime snack.

    I've been travelling since 0900. I've been crook. I've subsisted on Norwegian vending machine junk food and I'm a little cooked. I muster through after less than 5 hours sleep and arise at 0630 to join a coach / walking group of (some) London sights. Westminster, Big Ben, Buckingham palace. Starbucks. KFC. Subway. McDonalds. The group move at glacial pace, and although worth it, I'm wanting to run through the crowd at every opportunity. They're ruining my fitness stats with their 30 minute kms! I also sadly realise I'm not a royalist, and the info proffered by the tour guide is a little yawnarooney for me. Sorry Grandma and Aunty Joy. I like other British things though! Like tea. And sponge cake. And scones! And complaining ;)

    It is, however, with admiration, I observe the armistice day celebrations. They are weekend long in England and the respect is palpable. The video attached was as close as I could get.

    My fatigue starts to shift, and I'm grateful milk tastes like real milk in Europe thus far. I take in the sights, though the highlight of my afternoon was running through the streets and parks of Kensington. The light rain started in my last km. A good mate tells me how cleansing it is. It really was, and I feel euphoric. A stark contrast to this morning.

    I manage a total of 9km of running and 6km of walking today. I'm grateful for a body that can move this way and help me enjoy this beautiful city on foot.

    I'm also grateful to meet the roots of our Aussie culture, as so far, our British mates are as awesome as us Aussies.

    I cruise the Thames this evening.

    London. I can't wait to return one day soon and explore the country and isles in the time it deserves.
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  • Day 10

    Thames at night and the left confirmed.

    November 12, 2023 in England ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    A delightful evening with an English pub meal at The Traitor's Gate and a cruise on the river Thames. I really wanted a full english roast with yorkies, though the set menu did not offer such traditional fare. I settled for battered cod and mushy peas. It was okay. I've had better.

    The greatest let down was the offer of lotus biscoff cheesecake. Yes please I say! Only to have the delightful waitress explain they've run out and only have salted caramel. I stifle my tears and refuse the calorie hit if it's not lotus biscoff. I settle for a chocolate brownie. The convict jokes continue as I request it to go (I'm a slow eater and we'll all miss our cruise if we wait for me). They apologise as they hand me the takeaway box without a spoon, explaining they have no disposable spoons. I steal a stainless spoon quietly from the table, wink, and explain to my tour group. It's okay! I'm Australian! It's what the Brits expect. We were colonised for such crimes. Though also. How do I eat a brownie with ice cream to go without a spoon?

    I also learn from the lovely David, our tour guide, why driving on the left is the RIGHT way. It dates back to Roman times. When crossing a bridge or narrow passing. To ensure your right side is free to draw your sword.

    So there. Evidence. I'll peer review it later.

    Onwards to Brussels.
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  • Day 11

    Brussels, Belgium & the Flemish

    November 13, 2023 in Belgium ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Pip pip cheerio to London, and bonjour, hallo to Brussels, Belgium.

    Another early start. I truly don't mind the early starts, I prefer them, though I do need an early night prior, and the Thames cruise did not facilitate my need for sleep with a 2300 delivery to hotel the evening prior.

    I hack my meal prepping for the day, making myself a ham and cheese sandwich and yogurt cup, to go, at the breakfast buffet. I appreciate this is taking more than my share. Though. Convict. Another spoon stolen to enable consumption of what may be contriband.

    We board our coach and are introduced to Luigi, our tour guide for the trip. Luigi is already grating on me. It's early. His accent is thick and he does nothing to elevate my opinion of him when he directly asks, "Why are you all a by yourself, eh? Why you no have a the husband?"

    Thanks Luigi. Watch yourself, or else I'll move princess Peach to another castle.

    Lost at some train station in London, I ask for directions to the platform I need to get to. The lovely attendant asks my platform number. Ever amusing myself, I state 9 and 3/4. Harry Potter reference. I'm always cracking myself up.

    A seemingly brief and very comfortable trip aboard the Eurostar delivers us to Belgium sometime around 12.30.

    I am enthralled with Belgium. I amble without purpose for hours through the alleys and absorb all this city has to offer. I dine. Belgian waffles no less. Light rain soaks my hair and skin. I stop to enjoy the buskers playing John Legend: All of me, a song that always makes me teary, and realise in this very moment. I'm in Belgium. In Europe. I was in London yesterday. Norway the day before. I'm so very appreciative for this moment.

    I accept I may look like a cashed up tourist after the 2nd compliment of my beauty and marriage proposal from the Belgian restaurateurs seeking clientele, and silently think suck on that Luigi. Bet you're not receiving same compliments today. 🤣.

    A late hotel check in, I take myself out for dinner and dine French style. Croque Monsieur. A single vino rouge. And contemplate how beautiful the world really is. I check myself and know I've ordered a ham and cheese toastie. And a house red. Language can make anything fancy.

    Merci Bouquet, Danke Schon, Dankjewel, Belgium.
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  • Day 12

    Guten Morgen, Abend und Nacht Germany

    November 14, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Au revoir Belgium, and Guten Morgen Germany. When I say early start. I'm talking 0445. A self-inflicted additional hour earlier than needed to facilitate a run. Running with accumulative sleep deprivation is less than ideal. Still. 5km. Enough time to cool down and hack breakfast once again. I carefully pack a yogurt. Fresh Belgian roll. Turkey breast. Swiss cheese. Cucumber. If they didn't want me to make lunch, they'd not offer cold cuts I figure. Or freshly baked baguettes. Refer back to convict theme in prior posts.

    Another day. Another country. Another spoon stolen for my yogurt cup to add to my growing collection. Who needs souvenirs when you have stolen silverware?

    The autobahn is something else. 120km p/h. Never could this work in Australia. The Monash car park couldn't handle such speeds with our routine 40km zones whilst contractors pretend to work. I soon learn the exit signs, Ausfahrt, aren't instructional for myself, an Australian, to fart. I continue to respect my fellow passengers.

    Much of the afternoon is spent cruising the river Rhine. Taking in the sights. The vineyards on hillsides so steep I wonder if they're harvested by mountain goats. The scenery is stunning.

    We arrive in Frankfurt sometime around 1600. I attempt a second run for the day, and call it early. Fatigue is beginning to take its toll and I decide a few days rest is needed.

    Not at all enough time here. Austria bound now. Verabschiedung Germany.
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  • Day 13

    Edelweiss Austria

    November 15, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Today, we depart Frankfurt, Germany and traverse towards Austria. A brief stop in the beautiful town of Rothenburg and a delightful Apfelstrudel in a quaint coffee shop. It is delicious. As was the apple pie I enjoyed on the Rhine yesterday. Though I'm reminded again of the Queen of apple pie and pastry. In a competition she didn't know she entered, Maryanne Pollock from Cohuna once again takes out first prize for best apple pie of 2023. The champion dutch baker from Australia, defeating Canada, the United States, and now Europe. An intercontinental champion.

    The pace of this trip is tiring, and I respect that a country a day is a microcosm of the landscape, history, culture and architecture of each destination, though it's a great 'taste' of Europe.

    Now. Austria. How do you solve a problem like Melissa? The scenery ensures my head is filled with songs from The Sound of Music.

    The autumnal trees in hues of amber and yellow amongst the evergreen spruce, hugging the soaring mountain ranges. Turqouise lakes and crisp mountain air. I've seen some incredible landscapes in my travels this year, though Austria is really something else.

    We've barely crossed the Austrian border at time of this post - en route to Innsbruck.

    Today is a gift.
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  • Day 13

    Innsbruck, Swarovski & Christmas Village

    November 15, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Austria. Wow. So long, farewell, auf Wiedersehen, good night. I hate to go and leave this pretty sight. I really wish we had longer here.

    We arrive at Innsbruck and are surprised with an off itinerary stop to the home of Swarovski crystal. An excited purchase of jewellery, a quick amble around this stunning town and we check in to our motel.

    Austria was breathtaking. Our exhausted group are now forming that bond / team comradeship that evolves naturally when you are sharing space and time, and it's a beautiful thing. A mixture of people from the United States, Australia, New Zealand, Jamaica, the Phillipines, I observe with pride and humility just how much we all have in common, irrespective of cultural differences. We really aren't all that different.

    I bonded quickly with Michelle on our first day. An awesome, kind, inspirational and hilarious lady from California. We share a lot in common, including an incredibly low tolerance for bullshit. We discover our birthdays are the same. I'm so grateful to have made such an incredible friend on this journey.

    Tomorrow, we travel to Venice.

    Auf wiedersehen Austria.

    https://youtu.be/mBMVy6tQQB8
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