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Map New Zealand 2014

October - November 2014
A 12-day adventure by Kristofor Read more
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  • TravelerMap New Zealand 2014
    Day 13

    Melbourne (End)

    November 11, 2014 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
  • TravelerMap New Zealand 2014
    Day 13

    Christchurch

    November 11, 2014 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    http://www.travelark.org/travel-blog-entry/tofo…

    We woke to a home cooked breakfast; bacon, sausages, eggs, tomatoes, mushrooms, home made fruits, cereals, juices, toast, and fresh coffee prepared by our friendly hosts. We shared the breakfast table with Christian and Helga, an Austrian couple around our age.By 10.30 we were packed and on the road bound for Christchurch airport. We elected to take the Scenic Inland Road on Route 72 via Methaven rather than the freeway. It was prettier sure, but did have us scrambling a little for time. The GPS lying to us about fuel near the airport didn't help our cause. We finally arrived at check in around 2.10 for a 4.00pm flight. We breathed a sigh of relief as our wine filled luggage scraped at 'around' the tolerated weight limit. Quickly, returning our vehicle keys, we cleared through security and customs with no further issues.So 10 nights and 3000km of driving later, I'm back in a Virgin Australia aircraft now, on my way back to Melbourne. Whilst Id have loved more time, the trip didn't fly by, as we again crammed plenty of experiences into a short time. What a memorable trip its been, the most significant moment represented on Natalies left ring finger.Read more

  • TravelerMap New Zealand 2014
    Day 12

    Lake Tekapo

    November 10, 2014 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    http://www.travelark.org/travel-blog-entry/tofo…

    We had checked out of our hotel by 9, and headed to a nearby campground for todays hike. We would start with the popular Hookers Valley track and see how we went from there. Visibility was down from yesterday, and with mist and cloud looming, we elected to pack our rain jackets. It turned out to be a smart move. In the first instance, early in the walk it was just a battle against high winds, whipping through the valley and making it tricky to walk in a straight line. It was a pretty track, winding over hills and through the valley beneath huge snow coated mountains.

    There were three impressive swing bridges to negotiate along the way, suspended high over icy aqua rivers, each made to feel a little more perilous by the increasing strong winds
    . The hike finished at Hooker Lake, a beautiful spot with glacier views and Mount Cook alongside us. The lake was filled with glacier chunks and I was able to pick some glacier ice off the lakeshore. Soon after beginning our return, the weather turned for the worse. Rain started to fall, heavier and heavier, the clouds darkened and mist set in. Our coats kept us relatively dry and as we reached the carpark 12km later, we were treated to some sunshine.

    With winds still high and wet windy conditions, we decided to call it a day and head off to Lake Tekapo after pizza lunch at the Hermitage. We arrived at our final nights accommodation at Three Rivers Bed and Breakfast around 3pm. A great cozy room with window view of brilliant Lake Tekapo. The rest of the afternoon we spent winding down. We actually had an excess about of wine (9 bottles from a max allowed 6 to take home) so we spaced a couple of these out across the afternoon and evening. First off, the Church of the Good Shepherd Chapel, a picturesque (although slightly tourist ravaged) and historic church right on the edge of the lake.

    Next, we stopped at Saint Johns observatory for impressive views of the area from a high vantage point before relaxing at Lake Tekapo hot springs. These springs paled in comparison to Franz Josef, but were relaxing all the same.Our final dinner of the trip was at MacKenzies Flame Grill. We were glad we booked, getting the best table in the house and excellent sunset views of the lake. Our stone grilled steaks were fantastic, the waiting not so great.. Still, a fantastic final meal.Lake Tekapo is most renowned for being one of the best star-gazing locations on the planet and fortunately for us, the skies cleared at nightfall, treating us to some great viewing. We turned in around midnight, finally relaxed, full of wine and good food.    Read more

  • TravelerMap New Zealand 2014
    Day 11

    Aoraki Mount Cook National Park

    November 9, 2014 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    http://www.travelark.org/travel-blog-entry/tofo…

    Today ended up being another wine tour! We set off from Queenstown around 9.30 picking up a maccas breakfast on the way to the Gibbston Valley wine region. We managed to tackle five wineries and a cheesery here between 10 and 2. In order; Peregrine Wines, Mount Rosa, Gibston Valley Cheese, Gibston Valley wines, Chad Farm and Waitiri Creek. In short, Peregrine sported a spectacular set up, with a decent wine selection, we left here with a Pinot Gris. Mount Rosa hardly looked like it was open or had a cellar door. We followed the arrows to a phone to call for assistance. Soon there after we were greeted by Jeremy and his friendly Dalmatian 'Muppet'. Muppet snoozed whilst we went through a tasting. These were probably my favorite wines of the day, all excellent. We left with a Pinot Blanc hot mulled red. To break up wine tasting, we stopped for a cheese taste, deciding on a grilled brie with fresh bread. Next door, Gibston Valley wines, the most famous and commercial in the area was a slight disappointment.

    Just getting to Chard Farm was an experience in itself, a winding gravel road on a cliff edge overlooking an aqua blue stream. The wines here were right up there too. We actually left with three bottles, one specialty Pinot Noir we will save to mark the year anniversary of our engagement. The last winery in the area was Waitiri Creek, the cellar door in a pretty and quaint old chapel. We opted to have lunch here, even at the higher price ($27NZ for a pizza?). The food was ordinary (fancy flavor combo didn't work) and wines weren't special to me.By 2, we headed down the road to Cromwell and Bannockburn for a couple more wineries, stopping at Lydias Lookout on the way.

    First up was Mount Difficulty, packed with customers. The wine here was decent, we will have to look out for it at Dan Murphys back home. With Felton Road and Desert Heat estate closed (many places seem to be appointment only), we picked nearby Gate 20 two as our last stop. In comparison to Mount Difficulty, this place was deserted, and felt like someones home. We actually completed a tasting in the guys doorway. Still, we left with a Pinot Gris and headed north on the two hour drive towards Mount Cook.

    The drive in was breathtaking, driving along ice blue Lake Pukaki before an enormous imposing white-capped mountain range. Our accommodation was nestled in the Mount Cook Village, right at the base of the mountain. Our room had a spectacular view of the snow covered mountainside and glaciers. We arrived around 6, with just enough time to squeeze in a couple of walks.The Tasman Valley was a short 8km drive down the road. Here we took two walks; the Blue Lakes and Glacier view, and Glacier Lake. The first in particular ended up at an amazing summit view of an intense aqua coloured lake. I'm running out of superlatives to describe the colour of the water here in New Zealand, but its comparable probably only to Interlaken, Switzerland; and Iceland, and still got them beat I think.By now it was 8pm and time for dinner at the Mountaineers Cafe near the Hermitage at Mount Cook Village. My steak and Nats lamb chops were sensational, probably being the best in NZ so far. We turned in around 11, looking forward to another hike tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerMap New Zealand 2014
    Day 9

    Milford Sound

    November 7, 2014 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    http://www.travelark.org/travel-blog-entry/tofo…

    Here I am in the most picturesque, scenic cabin after the most breathtaking, awe inspiring drive I have ever experienced. The Te Anau - Milford Highway is an experience in its own right. We arrived at Te Anau around 10, after departing Queenstown at 8.15. Its a pretty place by a lake for a stroll, to top up fuel, gather supplies and information before heading North towards Milford. We grabbed a pepper steak pie from here which lived up to its hype. Heading north is a journey into the heart of the Fjordland National Park. Its basically a sole 120km highway all the way to Milford with the exception of a 30km unpaved turnoff, Hollyford Road which finishes at Humboldt Falls. Along the way, dozens of short and long walks, lakes, tracks, pools, waterfalls and places to marvel at. Brief description aside, Ill pretty much just let the photos do the talking but I still feel they don't fully encapsulate the beauty of these places.

    First stop on the Highway was the Mirror Lakes. Aptly named as when still, so clear they reflect a mirror image of the overlooking mountains. Second, Cascade Creek, which linked onto the Lake Gunn Nature walk. This was a dense, green forest trail. The moss and fungus here clung to everything, making for a tangled array of green shapes all around. The track touched onto the banks of lake Gunn for a nice view.We made a couple of scenic lookout stops before reaching the Hollyford Road turn off. At one, we were lucky enough to see a wild Koa mountain parrot by the carpark, who was kind enough to pose for a photo. 1km into the Hollyford Road, we stopped off at the Lake Marian track. This sported a very cool swingbridge over a scenic river, following the river to a lookout of a few small but powerful waterfalls. This was nothing compared to what was to come.

    We followed the Hollyford road to the end and hiked about 15 minutes to come before the impressive towering Humboldt Falls. It really was huge. A thin falls broken into three sections tumbling off the mountain.From here we turned back, stopping at a historic grave en route back to the Highway. Here the mountains really lurched up, imposing their magnificence all around us, until we reached the mouth of Homers tunnel, the only land entrance to Milford Sound. Built in 1953, the tunnel pierces sheer rock to allow access to Milford. As if passing through wasn't enough, the views on the otherside rivaled anything Id seen before; Imposing cliffs, mountains with countless waterfalls falling everywhere. We wound through until we reached the Chasm, touted for its powerful waterfalls. Another place living up to its billing, we were greeted soon enough by the deafening sound of water surging through a canyon gap into the gully below.Just kilometres now to Milford itself.

    The actual view at the end was slightly underwhelming. With the tide out, it looked a little more like Milford Swamp. We checked into our amazing cabins at Milford lodge a little after 4. There was nothing underwhelming about this place; Luxury cabins, right on a turquoise blue river, with amazing mountain views. The rest of the afternoon we spent on a short Milford track, enjoying nachos at the cafe and just lapping up the views and atmosphere from our cabin. I decided tomorrow to book a helicopter flight above the Sound with a possible glacier landing. We also have breakfast, a fjord cruise and an underwater marine exhibit to look forward to. Plus the scenic return to Queenstown. Tomorrows going to be another great day.    Read more

  • TravelerMap New Zealand 2014
    Day 8

    Queenstown

    November 6, 2014 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    http://www.travelark.org/travel-blog-entry/tofo…

    It all turned out to be more difficult and painful than I had hoped. Eventually, I found a nice place to drop to one knee and ask the question. After laughing at me in shock for 30 seconds, she eventually said yes.

    Our cabin at Milford was so picturesque, comfortable and beautiful I opted to keep the window above our bed open for sunrise to greet us. When light shone in around 5am, I opened the stream side curtains to enjoy the view and sound of the stream while I snoozed. It looked overcast, but dry.When I woke again proper around 7.30 it had started to rain. Thick cloud and mist had rolled in, hardly ideal for a helicopter ride. Looks like more trouble for my engagement plans. The initial objective was to propose at Franz Josef Glacier. That helicopter cancellation was brutal, especially on such a clear day. Id left the ring in the car at Ohau Stream north of Kiakoura, opted to hold off (whilst tempted) at Abel Tasman, and left the ring in the car for our ride up the cable car in Queenstown. Another potential hindrance in proposing was grinding on my nerves and the ring was getting heavier and heavier. It was starting to be as heavy a burden as Gollum experienced in Lord of the Rings. It wasn't just the hindrance, I wanted the proposal to be perfect and all my plans were either being cancelled beyond my control or the opportunities were unfolding in the wrong sequence.

    We checked into reception for breakfast around 8.30, rain falling steady and visibility non existent. The bacon egg and tomato baguettes were delicious. Staff advised us the weather was predicted to clear by the afternoon (our flight was scheduled for 3pm) so everything should be alright. Much like at Franz Josef, Natalie was getting frustrated at my apparently excessive disappointment, which not being able to explain, just made me more annoyed!First up, we had a scenic cruise of the Milford Fjord booked. We sat up on the deck, undercover, with jackets and coffees and enjoyed the view. It was a great cruise (not great enough to propose), despite visibility being slightly restricted and the dreary weather. It really provided an accurate and typical viewing of the typical state/conditions of the fjord. We sailed by countless cliff faces, caves, felt the power and spray from a grand waterfall, and saw a couple of rare penguins and plenty of playful seals on the shore. Another notable feature was sailing past only one of two visible fault lines on earth; where the New Zealand and Australia plates meet.

    The cruise took us right out to the Tasman Sea edge, then back around the other side of the fjord to drop us off at the floating sea observatory: Milford Deep.The whole observatory was basically a cone, suspended over (and under) the fjord water by a couple metal arms. You descend 60 stairs from the boat landing to an underwater aquarium view. Basically, the people are in the 'enclosure' here and its about hoping some fish swim by to have a look. Some attached coral beds provided extra incentive for some fish to drop in for a feed. It was actually really impressive and we saw plenty of colorful fish and other sea creatures.We were soon speeding back to the boat terminal at Milford Sound, arriving there around 1.45. We fixed ourselves a quick ham and cheese roll lunch and then dropped into the cafe/ info centre for a beer and hot chips.

    By now the weather had substantially improved. All rain had stopped, fog had lifted and cloud cover was still dense but scattered. I figured Id ask the info lady here as to whether she was aware if the weather was adequate for our planned heli flight to go ahead. She called the company, who appeared to give a hesitant/unclear response that the weather wasn't quite good enough. I resisted the urge to go on a killing spree and figured wed confirm it at the helipad just down the road. The lady there kept me waiting about 10 minutes on what seemed like a personal call, then casually shrugged off that the weather wasn't ideal and generally 'they don't fly without three people'. She said an alternative flightplan to Sutherland Falls might be more feasible if they could find a third person? A bus off Asian tourists showed up and she vaguely suggested this to them, but of course no one was interested and the whole idea was put to bed. Just like that. Someone take my money and let me complete an awesome proposal dammit!

    It was after 3 now, and we had 4 hours travel back to Queenstown. Instead I dragged Nat back to the waters edge at Milford fjord, saying wed get another look at it with the tide further in, it'd look better now after all. I took her along the boardwalk, then off the track stepping carefully via the tide, right out onto the edge of the water. There the skies opened up, sun beamed down, and with a full view of the fjord and great waterfall beside us, asked the question. We hardly wanted to leave thereafter and spent a while longer enjoying the moment and scenery.The drive back was pretty smooth sailing, again soaking in the impressive range around Homers tunnel. We stopped for a walk at mistletoe lake near Te Anau downs, then on towards Queenstown. Nat couldn't stop looking at her ring (which ended up costing her a speeding fine..). We again stayed at the Mantra Marina motel on the outskirts of Queenstown. The drive in was spectacular too, coincided perfectly with the sunset. There was just enough time to enjoy an amazing Fergburger in Queenstown before falling into bed exhausted.    Read more

  • TravelerMap New Zealand 2014
    Day 8

    Haast

    November 6, 2014 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    http://www.travelark.org/travel-blog-entry/tofo…

    We left the dissapointment of Franz Josef behind us to embark on a most spectacular drive south towards Queenstown. It was one of the prettiest drives I can remember, again maximized by picture perfect weather. Blue skies and sunshine. A half hour south of Franz Josef we stopped for a photo at its neighbour the Fox Glacier. From there it wasnt too far on down the west coast to the township of Haast. Not alot here, a few homes, and a few resteraunts/cafes. From here the road beyond leaves the coast and heads into the mountains. Its usually closed daily from 4-6pm on, and often completely in winter. Time, season and weather was on our side and the way was open.

    The scenery changed from coast, valleys and streams to a narrow windy mountain road, with forested mountain views, plenty of evidence of rockslides, countless waterfalls and one-way bridges. Iv yet to mention how commonplace one-way bridges are in New Zealand. You either get a 'right of way' or 'give way' sign, have to look ahead and hope to get through before oncoming traffic. The majority of the time its a non-issue as the roads arent exactly densely populated. We made a couple stops along the way, most notably the Thunder Falls which was quite impressive! Eventually we came out of the mountains onto a ridge road winding between two lakes; Wanaka on the left and Hawea to the right. The road offered spectacular views of again, that turquoise blue water, surrounded by mountains.

    Eventually, we arrived into the lakeside city of Wanaka around 1pm for lunch. We stopped in for a delicious pizza and beer. Refueling was again painful (cost between $2.10-2.25nz p/ltr). We spent a short time here on the lakeside enjoying the view before heading on towards Queenstown through the Queensrange valley road. Heading through the Queensridge towards Queenstown was another spectacular mountain views with steep cliffs, lakes below and Queenstown in the distance. After a while we descended a steep windy decline into the valley below.

    Not far from Queenstown we made a detour to check out the pretty Arrowtown, a historic gold mining town. We stopped for a stroll up and down the 'main' one way Arrow Street, with nice little shops and cafes. We enjoyed a memorable and delicious chocolate brownie from the bakery here. It was only a short drive into Queenstown from here, and with time ticking onto 3.30 we went straight to the Kiwi Birdlife Park. This was a nice little zoo with not only Kiwis but several other native New Zealand birds including the Koa mountain parrot. Whilst still small (we got through here in an hour), this was a vastly superior kiwi experience to yesterdays rip off at Franz Josef. Specifically memorable was watching the kiwis peck at me through the glass with squinty eyes, chase each other about and enjoy a feeding session.

    From here, we walked over the road and boarded the Queenstown cable car (included with our Kiwi Park ticket).What a view from the top. Wow! Queenstown has to among the most picturesque cities Ive visited, nestled in a valley on a giant turquoise lake surrounded by whitecap mountains. Amazing! After a while enjoying the views, sunshine and fresh air we thought wed go enquire about dinner at the resteraunt here before heading down. We were interupted by the shouting of some Mouri actors inviting guests to the Mouri culture show about to start. 'So youre here for the show??' Ah, sure? 'Can I see your ticket?' Sure, heres our cable car ticket? Whilst this wasnt for this extra show, there were only four others there for it, so they invited us in anyway. But first, we need a male volunteer, and since theres only two males here, and the other is a timid asian guy.. looks like Im it..Basically I was elected to be chief of our group and receive a peace offering after an intimidating Mouri dance. The show was great and lasted about half hour. It consisted of a variety of cultural dances and songs and got everyone involved; the ladies (Nat included) on stage to dance with these traditional balls-on-ropes. After that, both us guys were invited up on stage to learn and perform the 'Haka'. It was fun giving it a shot, but my technique probably needs work.

    We headed down on the gondola and off to our hotel Mantra Marina by around 7, located about 10 minutes out of town. We changed and headed into the city centre for dinner, starving. We found a place by the water called Pub on Wharf with $20nz meals. I can say that my meal was amazing, possibly the best PorkBelly I have ever had. Just amazing. A couple hours and Macs beers later we were ready to call it a night. We have an early start tomorrow as we head over on a long drive to Milford Sound.    Read more

  • TravelerMap New Zealand 2014
    Day 7

    Franz Josef

    November 5, 2014 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    http://www.travelark.org/travel-blog-entry/tofo…

    It all started with a sneeze. Nat down. Suspected broken neck and paralysis. Only 8am. Still time enough for a quick morning stroll before we head down to Franz Joseph for a helicopter ride and glacier hike. Its only a couple hours south and only 10 minutes to the beach. Wrong. The path to the beach is covered in mud. Deep mud. Deep enough to swallow and break my thongs. We saw a baby horse. That was pretty cool. By the time we got back to our hotel for departure and Id checked our route I realized we were behind schedule. It was further than I thought. We needed to average a speed of 260km p/hr to make it to our Glacier Hike on time. Oh and Nats life is flashing before her eyes so looks like I'm driving. Buckle up.
    At the end of the day, we made it to Franz Joseph in the nick of time, including a petrol and toilet stop, at the cost of a ruptured bladder and possibly becoming sterile. Nat ended up driving 2/3 of the way. I'm an alright driver, but shes the grand master. A seasoned veteran, especially on windy roads. Its not like driving my dying car to the train station and back. We did see a suspected kiwi on the way. Just beyond Parapoa park.

    So we arrive, blue skies, sunshine, 10 minutes to spare, ready to gear up for a glacier hike, only to be told 'Were deeply sorry' all helicopter flights today are cancelled. Its windy up there apparently. All tours are cancelled. I look outside and theres not enough breeze to make your hair move. It looks like the most beautiful day Franz Joseph has seen in years. Instead, we pick up a dissatisfying refund and try to decide what to do with our suddenly ample time. I'm not good at making nothing seem exciting.

    Theres a walk to the glacier, at least to get a view of it, so we opt to go for it. Its a nice walk in truth. We try to swallow our bitterness and enjoy it. Its a wide mountain valley track, overlooked by towering mountains dozens of waterfalls and a gentle stream down the centre.
    Earlier we were told some guides were stranded on the glacier due to helicopter issues. Throughout the afternoon we hear probably ten helicopters fly overhead, each being like a dagger in our hearts, like being forced to relive some long repressed torment or tragedy. The view of the glacier itself is nice, but a little underwhelming, I think we've seen better in Norway and Svalbard.

    Next lunch at a bakery. A cold average pie and 'Glacier' pasty that was drier than the Sahara dessert. Were finding anything Glacier-related to cause grave heartache.
    We needed a couple more activities to fill the afternoon now. First, a kiwi experience. Ive always wanted to get a close look at a kiwi. $35nz each? OK, a bit pricey, but who cares?
    This was putrid value. It was literally three rooms. One at entrance with some kiwi info. The second was the kiwi exhibit, almost too dark to see the kiwi and two of the three small chicks. We were told silence was critical to the animals health. I guess the construction worker didn't get the memo. The sounds of intense drilling into the walls and blaring car horns annoyed customers more than the birds. The last room had a bit of glacier info (not that we were keen on thinking about that right now) and 2.67 minutes later we were finished.

    We checked in at our hotel at Glenfern Villas, which although a bit pricey seemed very comfortable, just outside of town. We emptied our luggage, mingled with the resident pet sheep and llamas and changed into swimwear. Last stop; the Franz Joseph hotsprings. For $50nzd for both of us, this was a decent deal. We spent a couple hours here soaking, relaxing, the springs doing wonders for Nats neck. With her recovering, and a comfy hotel villa awaiting us we opted to grab some take away Indian/Thai and sit at our villa with a bottle of Reisling from Gieisens and Lord of the Rings. Some fireworks crackled outside for 'Guy Fawkes' celebrations (why is this a NZ celebration) and we settled in for a comfy quiet night. Its late now, and tomorrow were off to Queenstown. We made the best of a disappointing day today, but I hope tomorrow is better.    Read more

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