Europe Cruise 2023

October - November 2023
A 28-day adventure by Barb Read more
  • 26footprints
  • 11countries
  • 28days
  • 165photos
  • 0videos
  • 14.6kkilometers
  • 7.0kkilometers
  • Day 11

    Day 11 - Copenhagen, Denmark

    October 23, 2023 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    So we thought the ship was going to be docked in Copenhagen literally right across from where we were to pick up our e-bikes but not the case and so we started the day with a 5km walk warm up. Picked up the bikes and headed out…Little Mermaid statue, lots of castles (Amalienborg, Christiansborg and Rosenborg Castle), Frederik's Church, Nyhavn (described as a 17th-century waterfront, canal and entertainment district, lined by brightly coloured 17th and early 18th century townhouses and bars, cafes and restaurants ) - very cute. But what stood out for me were two stops we made: the first, Copenhill and the second, Christiania. So Copenhill is an artificial ski slope on the roof of an ultra-modern energy plant, used also for hiking & climbing. If you look carefully, you can see the t-bars. Paul took a close up of the climbing wall for Brae & Lindsay - the climbing wall is the tallest in the world at 85 meters tall with a width of 10 meters. Christiania is is an intentional community and commune in the Christianshavn neighbourhood and has been famous for many years thanks to the permanent stalls along Pusher Street—or 'The Green Light District', as it was once known—that sold all types of cannabis (illegal elsewhere in Denmark). A bit shady perhaps as there were ‘storefronts’ clearly selling hash, cannabis, etc but pretty cool community. After touring around on bikes for several hours, we dropped them off and walked back to the ship. I had forgotten to turn my May my Run app on until we got to Copenhill, hence the large gap. Copenhagen is a beautiful city, the capital and most populous city of Denmark, but very expensive. We lucked out having found a delicious kebab place (homemade wraps) for about $12cdn, but our Canadian friends were miffed at paying the equivalent of about $75cdn for a bowl of potato soup and some bread. Met the gang for before dinner drinks and to share stories about our individual adventures of the day. Lots of stories and laughter over dinner but we headed back to the room before 10 cuz we were exhausted.Read more

  • Day 12

    Day 12 - Gothenburg, Sweden

    October 24, 2023 in Sweden ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Today we are in Gothenburg, Sweden, the second biggest city next to Stockholm, known for their Volvo museum. The ship docked quite a ways away from the main part of the city so we were herded onto shuttle buses that dropped us off at the infamous Gustav Adolfs torg, home to a statue of founding father, King Gustaf Adolf. While we try and hit the common tourist spots you read about, Paul and I tend to tread off the beaten path and today, that led us to…a film set. I spoke to someone working there and she said it was a true crime movie about the biggest robbery in history that occurred in 2008 in Denmark but, she said, the story starts in Sweden. We stayed long enough to watch a guy aiming a rifle at an armored vehicle - yes, Alec Baldwin came to mind 😳. Anyway, when I got back to the ship, I researched it a bit more and I believe this is it, described as “In a spectacular heist that had all the precision of a military operation, armed robbers in Denmark stole 30 million kroner ($6.3 million) in cash early on Tuesday by smashing down the wall of a money transport firm with a crane and storming through the breach armed with submachine guns and rifles.” Another source said “DKK 60 million (USD 10.5 million) was stolen from cash handling company Dansk in Glostrup in 2008, making the crime Denmark’s biggest robbery to date.” Well after that bit of excitement we walked up to Masthuggskyrkan, a church high up that gave us a great view overlooking the city - if you look closely, you can see the ship in the distance. We continued on through Haga, one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Gothenburg that is now a pedestrian street, lined with plenty of independent shops and cafés, followed by various parks and gardens, a short walk along the canal and lastly, Nordstan, Scandinavia’s biggest shopping mall - we didn’t last for long. Two consecutive days of walking and riding and we’re wiped…Paul is napping as I’m writing this.Read more

  • Day 13

    Day 13 - Oslo, Norway

    October 25, 2023 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    …arrived in Oslo early this morning. We heard other people on the ship that said it’s supposed to snow. Before we left Calgary I had looked at average temperatures at each of our ports and for all of the ones north of Southampton, it said low to mid teens…no problem. What I didn’t take into account was the humidity cuz geez it sure can feel cold. Definitely putting our Eddie Bauer gear to the test. Anyways, headed out after breakfast for our first tour…took a boat tour around the fjords of Oslo. Lots of colours in the leaves and exteriors of houses - quite beautiful but holy crap it was cold on the mostly open ‘Viking-like’ ship, the Jomfruen. Off the boat and pretty much ran into the nearest cafe for a hot beverage. Now it’s time for a land tour with Viking Biking in true viking ‘fashion’ (check out my bike helmet). We only had 5 riders and our guide, Josh, who was born and raised in Florida; came to Oslo to study and has been here for the past 10 years, recently having become a citizen. Great sense of humour and took us up, down and all round Oslo (see screenshot of Map my Run). The one standout was probably Frogner Park, within which you can find Sculpture park with more than 200 sculptures by Gustav Vigeland (1869–1943) in bronze, granite and cast iron. “All 212 statues depict human beings of different ages, sexes and sizes, stuck in different and sometimes perplexing poses. Vigeland wanted his statues to capture all the aspects of a person's life, both in a literal and in a metaphorical sense. And he made them all naked, so that they remain timeless”. The city was very quiet, both because again, main mode of transportation seemed to be by foot or bicycle, but we also noticed a large number of electric cars, easily identifiable by license plates starting with “E”. Josh said that last year 70% of vehicles bought were electric and Oslo is aiming to cease selling gas vehicles by 2025. Oslo is our northernmost destination for this cruise so hopefully it just gets warmer from here. I have no doubt that this area would be spectacular in the warmer months as well. Enjoyed our group dinner with the gang, again exchanging what everyone had done throughout the day, and then lots of other stories. Reasonably early to bed as we’ve now done 3 days in a row with LOTS of walking and cycling.Read more

  • Day 14

    Day 14 - at sea

    October 26, 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    …at sea again, heading south to our next destination, Rotterdam. The sea is much calmer and Paul looked at the forecast for tomorrow which should be an absolute balmy 14. Quiet day catching up on emails, this blog, naps, prepping for future destinations, etc.Read more

  • Day 15

    Day 15 - Rotterdam, Netherlands

    October 27, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We woke up to a stunning view from our balcony this morning…the Erasmus bridge in Rotterdam, Netherlands. Another wet and gray day but oh so much warmer than Oslo. We walked over the bridge to our meeting point for our bike tour. We ended up with a private tour, with two guides nonetheless…we were guinea pigs for his maiden ride. A couple of wrong turns and a very wet ride, but lots and lots of information. We started at the Rotterdam Centraal, their main train station that was completed in 2014. On our way there, we had passed a sculpture alongside the canal that caught my eye. We didn’t get a chance to get a picture, in fact our pictures today are minimal cuz of the rain, so I’ve used a few off the net, but I had asked about it and figured I would get more info off the internet later, but I can’t find anything about it. However, the guide had said it was meant to depict a lonely boy, representing the increase in the past several years in teen suicide, and that the sculpture would be moved all around The Netherlands to bring attention to mental health amongst the youth. We went on to City Hall and then the St. Lawrence church that was almost completely destroyed by a bomb in May, 1940. I took a screenshot of what the area looked like after the bombing. Next stop - Markthal - an indoor marketplace place full of food venues and wares on the first couple of floors and then flats on the rest. The building was completed in 2014 and has a glass facade on both sides made up of smaller glass windows. The smaller windows are mostly squared and around 1485mm wide. All of these are hung around a structure of steel cables, 34 metres high and 42 metres wide, which makes it the largest glass-window cable structure in Europe. The windows are made to be able to flex to a maximum of 70mm in a storm. On the inside, the artwork shows enlarged fruits, vegetables, seeds, fish, flowers and insects and was made using digital 3D-techniques. The enormous file of 1,47TB needed special servers, which are also used by Pixar Studios for making their animated movies. The digital 3D-animation was separated in 4000 pieces and then printed on perforated aluminum panels. Pretty amazing. We did a quick drive-by of the infamous cube houses…would’ve liked to have seen the inside cuz can’t envision it. They were designed by architect Piet Blom and based on the concept of "living as an urban roof": high density housing with sufficient space on the ground level, with its main purpose being to optimise the space. Our next stop was at what they’ve nicknamed the “teacup” building, built in 2021 as the new storage home for the collection of the Museum Boijmans van Beuningen. It is a very cool 40-metre-tall mirrored ‘flowerpot’ and was crowd-funded…we were told you could purchase a mirrored panel for €1000. We finished our tour and headed back to Markthal for a delicious kebab and then on our way back to the ship, we walked through Lijnbaan and Beurstraverse, nicknamed “Koopgoot”, or “shopping trench”. Both pedestrian areas housed a variety of food, cafes, stores (some favorites from my time in France: Primark, Flying Tiger, Bershka, Pull & Bear, Kiko…). Then a quick stop at a pastry truck for an apple beignet 😋. We got soaked today but it was a great day of exploring - Rotterdam was pretty sweet. It is becoming very apparent that we sacrificed pleasant weather for less crowds. The rest of the gang took ship excursions and did not get back to the ship til late, so we had a quiet dinner and then skipped the nighttime entertainment to sit on our balcony (first time so far) to watch the evening skyline, as we sailed out of the harbor.Read more

  • Day 16

    Day 16 - Zeebrugge/ Bruges, Belgium

    October 28, 2023 in Belgium ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We have arrived in Zeebrugge, Belgium and the weather, grey and wet ☹️ but we are prepared. So the ship info said to get to Bruges from Zeebrugges (the port), it was shuttle, shuttle, train and/or bus 😳 so we researched a bit, cut out the middleman and are just shuttle, then bus. Bus ride was about 20 minutes long - we passed very green fields and a large number of wind turbines. We were dropped off just south of the old town and set free. Beautiful walk through the park and then aaahhh - first impression, medieval village with cobblestone streets, stone buildings side by side, canals throughout…very surreal. Horse and buggy seemed to be the mode of transportation du jour. Some bicycles but foot power was definitely the way to go and this was probably the busiest stop for tourists that we’ve seen so far on the cruise and the stores with Christmas decorations…lovely. We walked through the Béguinage (nuns & religious lay women occupy this ancient, tranquil complex with exhibits of 17th-century life) and then stopped in at the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Church of our Lady) - beautiful church, but the opulence 😳. This particular church is famous for housing a white marble sculpture of Madonna and Child created by Michelangelo around 1504. Then up, down and all around the various streets and squares checking out the three most popular things…waffles, beer and chocolate and yup, we enjoyed all three; even a chocolate dipped waffle on a stick. Check out the 2be beer wall - upwards of 1250 bottles of beer and we only sampled 4 while sitting outside on a terrace overlooking a canal…pretty sweet. We tried to get into a brewery tour when we first arrived, but their first opening wasn’t until 5:30pm. Back to the ship and enjoyed another evening comparing adventures and sharing stories with our Canadian and Aussie friends. The other Canadians head home after we return to Southampton on Monday ☹️, but the Aussies stay on until Rome 😊Read more

  • Day 17

    Day 17 - LeHavre/ Honfleur, France

    October 29, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    LeHavre, France. Kinda grey again this morning but a bit warmer than it has been. Bit of a shit show trying to find our way to the city center so we can catch our bus to Honfleur, a quaint little commune approx. 25km from LeHavre on the other side of the river Seine. The Transat Jacques Vabre, a “yachting race that follows the historic coffee trading route between France and Brazil…named after (and sponsored by) a French brand of coffee” was scheduled to start today, so the bridge from the port into downtown Le Havre was sporadically closed throughout the day, making it difficult to cross on foot. We ended up on a shuttle bus from the boat to city center and as we stepped off the bus, the skies opened up. 30 minutes later, the skies cleared up. The bus trip from Le Havre to Honfleur included a guide who gave us a brief history of LeHavre…it is a major port city in the Normandy region of northern France. It is a huge industrial port with approximately 30% of its population working at the port. As the largest container port in France, they’ve become quite creative in repurposing old containers, ie. they’ve created a series of individual student residences using the containers. There is also a huge industry for the building of wind turbines - check out the collection of blades just below our cabin balcony. We crossed over the Normandy bridge, which was completed in 1995 to get to Honfleur. Honfleur is a 15th century village with cobblestone streets. It was founded by the Vikings and its name means “Corner by the Sea”. We were told that Honfleur enjoys over 3 million visitors in the summer and that it is the most popular village in France 🤔🤔 - guess the key word is ‘village’, cuz my favorite spot in France is Nice. Unlike Le Havre, which is just across the river Seine, Honfleur wasn’t bombed during the Second World War. We meandered up and down all of the various streets, losing all of the tourists who were huddled around the main square. We came across the local communal laundry facilities with their hours of operation, a number of hotels, and lots of stores selling the local delicacy - Calvados - a brandy made from apples and/or pears with a minimum alcohol content of 40%. Had a quick lunch and wandered over to a small island in the river delta, enjoying the occasional sighting of the sun. Great dinner with the gang…the Aussies had taken an excursion into Paris and the other Canadians toured Honfleur with the ship excursions. Kept trying to talk Wayne and Karin into staying for another week, but no go…promised to keep in touch.Read more

  • Day 18

    Day 18 - Southampton, England

    October 30, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Southampton today and a sad farewell to Wayne and Karin who are heading home to Newmarket. Busy day on board with staff prepping the ship for the onslaught of new passengers…our steward, Anshul, looked a bit overwhelmed - it looked like we were the only cabin in his row that were staying for the second half of the cruise so he had a lot of work to do. Hopped off the ship and headed into town. We walked by the Mayflower memorial, a memorial to the 1620 pilgrim ships that headed to America. Then we made our way to the Solent Sky as it had been highly recommended by our Aussie friends. It’s a museum dedicated to the history of flying boats and the Spitfire, housing over 20 aircraft from the golden age of aviation. The Solent region was the centre of aviation research and development between 1910 and 1960. Paul enjoyed it, but only managed to take one picture, and had some interesting discussions with one of the volunteers who was impressed with Paul’s knowledge of the airplanes, particularly the engines. We headed back towards the city centre, passing the Church of the Holyrood (known as the church of the sailors) which was erected in 1320, but damaged significantly in 1940. We continued along Blue Anchor Lane, alongside the Tudor house, that in Medieval times, was used to bring up imported goods to the market place and then down by the Southampton town walls. It had been raining on and off all morning so we ducked into the West Quay shopping mall (check out the vending machine for fresh flower arrangements), continuing with my quest to locate one of my favs, The Flying Tiger (glorified Dollar Store) which, I might add, we’ve been successful with in every port so far, except LeHavre. Jacqui, my craftaholic on board, found it today too (I had brought back Santa tissues for the ladies a couple of days ago) and LOVED it…her husband, Malcolm, was less impressed. Stopped in for lunch at Franco Manca where they make their own sourdough pizza crust and source their ingredients from small suppliers across Italy and the UK. Paul ordered a “No Logo Lager” - bit spicy (the pizza, not the Lager), but delicious 😋. Heading back to the ship we popped into Ikea to get out of the rain…same shit, different continent and then into McD’s for a coffee. Dinner and a show (comedian) and then off to bed.Read more

  • Day 19

    Day 19 - at sea

    October 31, 2023, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Good morning from somewhere in the Atlantic…it was a dark and spooky night (Happy Halloween), but actually it’s been a rocking and rolling kinda night with high winds, crashing waves and we lost an hour of sleep having changed time zones 😖. So about an hour after sitting in on a lecture about what to see and do tomorrow in La Coruna, Spain, the captain announced that we have a change in itinerary, again, due to weather…we are skipping La Coruna and heading straight to Gibraltar to try and stay ahead of a storm, which means 3 consecutive days at sea. We had booked bike rentals for the day, so disappointing, but La Coruna was the connection to Santiago de Compostela, known as the culmination of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, so I’m sure a lot of passengers will be really disappointed at missing it, but what can you do 🤷‍♀️. I’m thinking I’ll take a hiatus from the blog for the next 3 days until we arrive in Gibraltar unless something of interest comes up. Check in again on November 3rd.Read more

  • Day 22

    Day 22 - Gibraltar, Great Britain

    November 3, 2023 in Gibraltar ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    LAND AHOY - thank goodness…it’s been a few long days at sea with a lot of ‘turbulence’. Today we have arrived in Gibraltar and today, we are going to cycle to the top of the Rock of Gibraltar. We had 10 riders and I think they were all from the ship. Pretty intense trip but definitely worth it and now off the bucket list. The roads were narrow, some were pretty steep and a ton of taxis and buses..was a bit ridiculous and reminded me of the bus trip to Victoria Peak or Stanley Park in Hong Kong. It’s November, it must be completely unmanageable during peak tourist season. We stopped at a few viewing points which were stunning, including riding across the runway that, in effect, is the boundary between Gibraltar, Great Britain and Spain. I found myself focusing more on the bike and pedaling cuz you really didn’t want to stop cuz very difficult to get going again on an incline. The worst part, I had my Map my Run ready to go and was sure I had started it but NOPE 🤬. Somebody else did so I took a screenshot of hers. She had clocked us for a 12km ride but Paul thought it was closer to 18; she said the elevation gain was 1800 feet. The guide didn’t give us a lot of information on Gibraltar so I googled 5 interesting facts. Here they are:
    1. The current population of Gibraltar in 2023 is 32,688, a 0.12% increase from 2022;
    2. Gibraltar is only 6.8 km2 in size;
    3. Gibraltar is a British overseas territory, which means that it is under the jurisdiction of the United Kingdom, but technically it is not part of the nation;
    4. Personal taxes are low across the board, with an effective rate of income tax of only 25% (27% for a period of two years from 1 July 2022 as a response to Covid expenditures) on all incomes up to £500,000. All companies in Gibraltar pay only 12.5% tax on profits; and
    5. The Gibraltar airport is the only commercial airport in the world that has a highway passing across its runway. To avoid nasty collisions between planes and road vehicles, the traffic on the highway is closed for 10 minutes in the event of a landing or a takeoff.
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