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  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 218

    Krakow, Poland

    50 minutes ago in Poland ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    We had no idea what Poland had to offer. Ken wanted to visit Auschwitz and we believed Poland would be an affordable European destination. That combined with our limited knowledge about Ken’s family history, we really didn’t know what to expect. In our naïve minds we pictured Post WW2 + 1986 communism, which couldn’t have been farther from the truth of the cultural richness and bustling city that we found.

    Our Polish journey began as we arrived on a train after a six-hour ride from Austria (via Chechia). We assumed Poland used the euro, but quickly discovered the contrary at the train station. Oops, time to grab some zloty. (Note to self re: homeschool curriculum. Brush up on the differences between: Europe, the EU, the euro, and Schengen).

    We hopped on the convenient city train (love European transit!) to our AirBnB in the former Jewish district. The neighborhood was super trendy (vintage shops, expensive coffee, high end restaurants), with a mix of crumbling graffitied buildings and new renovations on every block. Flocks of tourist groups wandered throughout the neighborhood at all hours, visiting the synagogues near our place (either walking tours or via golf carts).

    Krakow turned out to be a totally underrated and unique, modern city – and a wonderful introduction to Poland. It was such a charming place with endless activities, green space, and nearly all adults spoke English (less so for the kids).

    The international food options were unlimited so we had to eat Hillary’s new favorite cuisine (Georgian food). There were several outdoor food-truck courtyards and the weather was perfect. Ken went out late (8pm!) to try the infamous street vendor sausages (sadly, overrated). Trendy bars and restaurants were around every corner. The food left a positive impression on us: challah French toast, potato pancakes, sauerkraut pasta, pierogi (dumplings), pistachio donuts, and kielbasa (sausage). The prices were more expensive than we expected ($20 pastrami??), but Everett got hooked on the cheap sausages from the corner market so we did alright.

    On our first day we found a delightful park – and Ken met a local while playing basketball. We had a few beautiful sunny days exploring the Old Town. The Jewish history walking tour was a highlight for us. Our guide was intelligent and genuine – it was her first day giving the tour so she was a little nervous. She did a wonderful job explaining a very complex history as we walked amongst the Jewish historical sites.

    Ken tried three times, unsuccessfully, to visit Schindler’s factory (either closed or huge lines). But, he did make it to a museum dedicated to a Polish pharmacist who was the only non-Jew allowed in the Jewish Ghetto during the Nazi occupation. We also saw the former site (now a plaza) where seventy chairs represented the discarded furniture of the Jews who were inhumanely displaced.

    Auschwitz is not recommended for kids under 14, so unfortunately, Ken had to visit solo. He rode the train there and joined a three-hour English-guided tour. It was a traumatic day for him, and well, it’s hard to explain unless one has visited a concentration camp before. Too many emotions to process. Too much horror. Ken, the ever-extrovert, did not say a word all day. He came home in a daze and slept from 7:30pm to 7:30am the next day.

    On a lighter note, an afternoon was spent at the Polish Aviation Museum. Now we can tell you WAY too much about the MIG-21. When your child is an aviation enthusiast, an afternoon of Soviet aircraft is a huge win.

    Needing to get some energy out, Everett spent time at an indoor trampoline park. Unfortunately, in his excitement he threw his body so hard, he hit a metal pole and we had to depart early with a rib injury. He was very disappointed (but not to worry, he recovered less than 24 hours later).

    From monuments, history, food, to the terrors of Auschwitz, it overwhelmed our senses and we really fell in love with the city. Pictures can hardly do justice to the beauty of Krakow. We will return.    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 212

    Vienna, Austria

    May 6 in Austria ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We left Zagreb on a Tuesday after a visit to the Museum of Broken Relationships – a small gallery where people donate the remnants of their past relationships, along with a sad or funny story. Everett was not amused by an activity about failed love.

    We opted for the bus instead of train to Graz, Austria (the direct train was a 7am departure which wasn’t appealing). Crossing the border into Slovenia was quick and easy. Slovenia, we should have stopped for a few days! What a miss. We drove through the eastern part of the country for an hour or so and then arrived at the bus station in Graz. The station was on the edge of town, and as we attempted to figure out transportation to our hotel, a Croatian passenger gave us a free ride in her Uber, saving us a 30 min bus ride. Happy with our luck and new location, we chowed on Turkish doner kebabs (they were on every corner). Our accommodation was an amusing hostel on the “wrong side of the tracks.” (It was actually a cute place but literally behind the train station). We loved the historic downtown and of course had to stock up at the Manner store (hazelnut wafers).

    Our fun idea: “5-day wiener schnitzel challenge:” eat breaded meat for five days in a row and rate the winner. Ken was absolutely buzzing at the idea: pork, veal, chicken… which would he choose? What sides … potato salad… There was a lot to discuss.

    Graz, you were gorgeous and completely under-rated.

    Three hours went by too quickly, as train trips usually do. The countryside provided wonderful views enroute to Vienna. (Sidenote, we are purposefully going to new cities – meaning we have not visited before. The only exceptions so far have been Bangkok and now Vienna. We just had to make an exception, it’s a favorite European capital city).

    Everett’s first impression, “Are we in London?”

    The Vienna metro system was abundant and we easily navigated to find our “platz.” Just as we arrived at our station the rain came down hard. It was difficult to find our apartment and we became drenched. We stayed on a beautiful local plaza just a short train ride from downtown – the location turned out to be a perfect one.

    It had been twelve years since our last visit, but the city didn’t seem as Austrian as we remember it. The city has become much more multicultural with more foreigners – for example, there were both Arab and Somali markets on our block.

    We went to Figlmuller for a nostalgic visit: we were there to appreciate the wiener schnitzel. The line was out the door and around the corner as hundreds of people queued in the rain. Luckily, we had reservations and skipped the line. Ken pulled up a picture on his phone from twelve years ago and told the waiter, “I’ll have this again.” We all agreed Figlmuller was the Undisputed Champion of the Five-Day Schnitzel Challenge. A second visit was in order the next day.

    We found Ken’s grandma’s childhood home (now used as a school) and enjoyed the park near her house. We walked in the rain all day, but didn’t care in the least. Ken, on his new running kick, had been waiting months to buy specific shoes and he finally was able to find Zero running shoes. Vienna had everything you could ever need.

    We wandered the historic downtown streets and pretended we lived there – all the while feeling the romantic nostalgia of the past. Unexpectedly, we stumbled upon a huge festival called “Wings for Life,” a charity running event to find a cure for spinal cord injury.

    Vienna, there is no other in comparison to you: You were a shining star, around every corner a more magnificent building than the last. Not one single tout tried to bother us. No one stared. Everyone just let us be - such a nice feeling. If it wasn’t so expensive, we could stay forever. Five days in Austria and it just wasn’t enough.    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 205

    Zagreb, Croatia

    April 29 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    In Zadar we stayed in a local residential area, a nice change from the previous week’s touristy city centers. The seaside town was quiet and we laid low in the rainy weather. There wasn’t much to see but enough to explore on foot. A showery day was spent at the public library and an under-whelming Museum of Illusions.

    Another bus ride took us inland (central Croatia) to Plitvice Lakes National Park – a trip highlight. We started exploring the Upper Lakes first. The water was exceptionally clear and vibrant emerald/blue – we could see the lake bottom, which seemed really crazy as we had never seen such a unique sight. The walking paths (often, very narrow with no handrails) were crowded but manageable (the selfie brigade was in full effect). Stunning waterfalls cascaded over limestone rocks as we strolled through the series of lakes and lush greenery.

    Park entrance accommodations were exorbitant so we picked a place a few miles down the road, not knowing there was no public transportation available in the very rural area. Luckily, our host offered to send her dad “Lazy Bear” to get us in his metallic Ford. He spoke very broken English and after dropping our heavy backpacks at the house, he drove us 10 miles BACK to town where the restaurants were located. He was a champion and waited for us to eat dinner so he could drive us home because it was starting to rain. He directed us to the only grocery store in his broken Croatian accent “Grocery store 2KM on road or 300M up hiking trail.” The choice was clear and we stocked up on junk food (very limited healthy options). For our walk down the hiking trail we had two fully loaded cardboard boxes (Costco style): no grocery bags in this town.

    Lazy Bear drove us home in the rain and Ken bonded with his Croatian father figure. He didn’t even work at the B&B, but was just doing his daughter a favor! So often people see us as “walking ATM’s,” try to scam or take advantage of our ignorance, or are annoyed by tourists. Not Lazy Bear. He genuinely valued Ken’s humor and was a truly hospitable and fun-loving individual.

    Our second day at the park we visited the Lower Falls; unfortunately, a portion was closed for maintenance so we only hiked about three hours. We met a nice Italian couple that loved American football, while we ate our packed lunch (salami sandwiches) and waited for the boat to arrive. Ken made a fatal error and regretted not bringing his coat, as he froze on the boat ride.

    We decided to hitchhike (or walk 10 miles) to our B&B. No sooner had we decided than our host (Lazy Bear’s daughter) came up behind us, “Hey guys!” She gave us a ride and we couldn’t believe our good fortune. That evening we took a beautiful evening stroll down our country lane.

    The next morning Lazy Bear drove us to the bus stop. He assured us the bus would pick up at a specific stop, even though it was not the stop listed on our bus ticket. We frantically paced, ready to flag down the bus, expecting it might pass us. Lazy Bear waited with us to ensure we got on our bus. An absolute legend!

    The bus ride to Zagreb (Croatia’s capital city) winded through the hills and Everett got car sick. I had to hold his bag of puke in my lap for the final 45 mins. Unfortunately, we accidentally booked a smoking apartment, so the place reeked. We also think an animal may have peed on the rug so it wasn’t too pleasant a smell. We opened all the windows to air the place out. The city and the apartment were actually really cute. We considered ourselves lucky for not having any lodging issues before this minor one, so we made the best of it.

    The capital city had a totally different vibe than its famous coastal counter-parts – endless graffiti, local shops, tons of outdoor café seating, a little bit grimy, indoor cigarette smoking, and well, “it’s a real place.” We’ve only been here one day. This is not a touristy city and we are appreciating its raw authenticity.

    In case you are counting, we had our fair share of issues this week: vomit, stinky apartment, and being stranded, but we keep finding solutions and continue to thrive.

    The joy of traveling is in the people we meet (Lazy Bear), not the destinations.

    Homeschool Question of the Week: Where was Nikola Tesla born? Yes, you’re right, Croatia!

    Bonus Picture: Ken hard at work.    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 198

    Split, Croatia

    April 22 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Never blindly trust Google Maps. We love you, but sometimes you are very wrong. Case in point, in Hvar we wanted to go from the ferry terminal to our hotel. We trusted the online map and proceeded to climb 1,000 steps up to a church, only to then descend 1,000 steps back down the other side. All the while Everett was literally hopping on one foot, given his injury.

    Host: Why are you coming from that direction? Us: We are coming from the ferry. Host (looking confused): The ferry is in that direction (points in the opposite direction that is FLAT). Us: Damn you, Google!

    Hvar Town… according to the Internet (and confirmed by locals) is a July-Aug debauchery summer resort town… but we arrived in the off-season. The quaint town was gorgeous but slow and empty (again, Google kept directing us to “open” restaurants but they were boarded up for the season). On our last day, we spent an afternoon at the local library doing school as we had four hours to kill before our ferry arrived. The turbulent winds arrived and we frantically paced the ferry dock fearful that our catamaran would be canceled. (The back-up option would have taken 6+ hours of backtracking multiple ferries, whereas our direct route was only 40 mins). Ken went into the ferry office for an update so often that he annoyed the desk clerk. Eventually, we did take off and the blustery winds frantically carried us across the straight to Vis Island.

    Vis was more beautiful than Hvar, but even slower if that’s possible. Everything was closed except: one pizzeria, two bars (filled with indoor smokers), and one under-stocked grocery store (except, on Sunday, when even the grocery was closed for Croatian Voting Day).

    Highlight: The view from our place could not be beat (Best AirBnB at only 80 euros). We have seen many oceans but the water of the Adriatic Sea here was the bluest we had ever seen. So even though we named the place “Ghost Island,” we 100% want to return in the summer when it comes alive.

    We boarded the ferry to Split and sailed along huge gray rock mountains. Take that back, NOT a ferry: A colossal ocean liner / cruise ship that carried 1000+ passengers and 300 vehicles (to us, A Carnival Cruise). A few hours later we arrived at the seaport of Split, the second largest city in Croatia. We high-fived each other: “Yes, people are here!” Findings: top notch European food, vegan lattes, charming shops, Roman ruins, a lot of cigarette smoking, and a wonderfully walkable maze of streets in the town center.

    The Roman ruins (e.g., huge palace from the 3rd century) gave us ample opportunity to explore the ancient architecture as we strolled through the city (note: “Roman Empire” added to this week’s 4th grade history lesson). It was so picturesque; a film crew was actively filming on the street corner outside our apartment. Inspired to get back in running shape, in the mornings Ken ran through the Marjan Forest (an uphill 10K with switchbacks – accompanied by weird looks from locals, who apparently run the route in the opposite - downhill - direction…Google, fool me once shame on you…). The people of Split were pretty relaxed and English was widely spoken so language hasn’t been much of an obstacle. We definitely enjoyed the mix of Balkan and Western cultures and now understand why this beauty attracts so many visitors!

    Opinion: if you’re visiting Croatia in the off-season, visit Split (10 out of 10) not the islands (very empty)… If you’re visiting during the high tourist season, we might avoid Split (likely over-crowded) and visit Hvar/Vis (peaceful beauty).    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 191

    kotor, montenegro

    April 15 in Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    On a rainy morning we left Tbilisi on Turkish Airlines enroute to Istanbul, where we were able to enjoy a long layover. Our Priority Pass allowed us access to a lounge that was over-the-top, definitely the swankiest we have seen! Unlimited Turkish food? Yes, please.

    Next, we flew into Tivat, Montenegro, which is a beautiful coastal town on the Adriatic Sea. Although we originally planned to fly to Croatia, we found a cheaper flight into Montenegro. We are so thankful to visit this gorgeous place! Another unexpected country to love. We arrived to warm blue skies, few tourists, and a cute apartment in the fortified Old Town. The cab ride from the airport to our hotel was a huge price gouge but, well, I guess we are in Europe now? (The buses weren’t running since we arrived too late in the evening). Nonetheless, we were so thrilled with the weather and the gorgeous views that we didn’t care. We have been discussing non-stop: how did we not know about this place??? Is it a hidden gem??

    What to do? First, laundry. These were the only instructions on the washing machine…

    Next, we wandered the cobblestone streets and happily ate over-priced gelato-pizza-wine and experienced major sticker shock (18 euro for a sandwich??). Ken climbed the 4,000’ vertical ascent up the “Kotor Walls.” What a view!

    Most of our days were spent at the seaside kid’s playground with a kid’s zip line of enthusiastic riders - pleasantly surprised to find so many kids (both locals and tourists). Everett made friends and, fortunately, a few spoke English. Several boys invited him to the basketball court and they spent the afternoon playing. At the end, Everett, walking barefoot after the game, unfortunately, stepped on a glass bottle. So much blood everywhere! I called Ken in a panic and he ran our medical kit over a mile from the hotel to the court where Everett needed medical attention. What a hero! The kids were some of the kindest we’ve met – shout out to Montenegro!

    Ken is now a sherpa with his backpack plus Everett’s; our poor kid is hobbling along like a champ though. We rode the bus a few hours north along the coast to the border of Croatia. The border crossing was simple and soon enough we found ourselves at the bus stop in Dubrovnik, Croatia in the 80-degree sunshine. Wow, the city was gorgeous and we had major FOMO realizing we should have spent a few nights exploring. Instead, we hopped onto a 3.5-hour ferry to the island of Hvar.

    Shout out to all the moms who buy snacks in preparation for a long travel day, only to find out someone (!!!) ate them last night, and now we are hungry!    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 184

    Tbilisi, Georgia

    April 8 in Georgia ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    It’s our first ex-USSR country, and yes, we’re surprised too. (Cliff note explanation: We are headed to Europe for spring, but wanted to make a stopover. We read that Georgia/Armenia are welcoming to Jewish tourists, so we checked flights (Tbilisi vs Yerevan) and Tbilisi came out on top. And so, here we are.)

    Arriving in Georgia (the country, not the state) from Japan was… jarring. The lady at passport control said NOTHING to us. Surprised how small the airport was. Hopped into a Bolt (aka Uber). Crumbling Soviet concrete apartment blocks. Graffiti. Loud honking horns. Cheese, lots of cheese (Ken went to four pharmacies to find Lactaid). Fantastic cheap wine. Crazy looking alphabet. Rich mix of contrasting architectures with abandoned buildings. Countless stray dogs (surprisingly, good-natured and well fed). Staring, so much insistent staring (directed at us). This mountainous country is a contradiction - a mishmash of European, Russian, and Persian.

    Our AirBnB turned out to be a hidden gem on a narrow street in Old Town, across the street from a Carrefour (grocery) and a funky international food court. When Maya, the elderly neighbor, let us in, we instantly felt relaxed.

    After an invigorating 15 hours of sleep…. The cobblestone streets had a European café vibe but with a distinctive Soviet flair. Similar to Japan we had significant language issues. Everett: Why is everyone so angry? Ken: They’re not angry, it’s just the language. Shout out to Ken's close friend, Albina, for teaching him that tip years ago. It took us several days of jet lag plus culture shock to adjust.

    We rode the Soviet-era cable car to the 4th century Narikala Fortress, but unfortunately it was closed for renovations. The view of the city and the Kura River gorge below was exceptional, nonetheless. We strolled the Old Town and took the funicular to the highest point in the city to an old school kid’s amusement park, Mtatsminda Park. It was empty on a Tuesday afternoon with very dated equipment (built in 1930’s by Soviets!).

    We debated whether to get a rental car or take the train to venture out, but we landed on a car for flexibility and reliability. What a good decision! Everett named our Toyota Corolla, “George.”

    The roads were decent; the driving aggressive but manageable (Ken pulled out his inner Los Angelenos). We encountered so many one-way streets (Google Maps was unusable). We stopped at a monastery (alongside a tour bus of Hassidic Jews) with a great view of the city below, excited to be on our rural adventure.

    The first night of our road trip we accidentally arrived at the wrong guesthouse (in our defense the house numbers weren’t in order and no one spoke English). Somehow we even were able to check in and pay for our first night at the wrong hotel. No worries, we got a full refund and we eventually found our place, which had a wonderful view of the town cathedral.

    The next day we ventured through very rural villages until we reached a cave system (ruins of a rock-carved town from the 6th century BC). We ended up at the birthplace of Stalin. So even though it was the home of a notorious dictator, our guesthouse host, Lia - the sweetest - (picture staying at your grandma’s house) was too endearing to mind the giant Stalin statue on Stalin Ave.

    The countryside was beautiful but in a haunting kind of way – rusted overhead gas pipes, old men driving tractors, crumbling buildings, cows on the road, modern freeway construction, ancient fortresses, and mountains in all directions. Laundry hanging out, the only sign of life.

    Downtown Kutaisi had old world charm and felt like another era. The food was definitely the highlight, a refreshing homecoming: bread, cheese, beans, walnuts, pomegranates, peppers, eggplant, dumplings, and weird raisin-flavored waxy nut sticks.

    We visited an enormous natural underground cave about 80 m below ground that stretches for miles.

    Then we made our way south into the mountains (towards Turkey/Armenia). Our host welcomed us with a bottle of wine. The wine making heritage in Georgia goes back to 6,000 BC! Still to this day, they use giant terra-cotta pots that are buried underground. My new favorite is the red grape, Saperavi.

    We ate more wonderful food at a local Georgian restaurant, but the waiter was perplexed by us. Waiter: “Never in my life. Husband and wife come to my restaurant. Wife orders wine. Husband nothing. Lemonade, are you sure?”

    This morning Everett is at the park with a Russian family staying at our guesthouse. Everett is excited to have friends. Small victories.    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 177

    tokyo, japan

    April 1 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We arrived to Tokyo in the pouring rain and settled into our tiny apartment in the Asakusa neighborhood. Our week in Tokyo was busy (unlimited choices of sights to see) but since we didn’t plan ahead, we missed out on many of the common tourist hotspots and kept hearing “reservations only” (e.g., robot café, Sky Tower, airline museum, trampoline park, multiple restaurants). But, with good attitudes (we are in Tokyo!), even in the rain, we found fun alternatives.

    Everett:

    Experienced real ninja training – e.g., threw shuriken (ninja stars), shot blow darts, and learned katana attack moves

    Easily mastered all the outdoor courses at Heiwa no Mori Park

    Enjoyed the hustle and bustle of Harajuku with all kinds of wild fashions and waited forever in line at his favorite Singaporean boba tea shop

    Ken:

    Strolled around every neighborhood (some unbelievably crowded!!!): huge crosswalks, well-maintained public areas, neon lights… like New York but without the chaos

    Ate unlimited sushi, bought cake from a vending machine, gawked at electronics stores galore, appreciated the bidets, and marveled at Team Labs (the one and only reservation we thankfully made in advance! – an immersive art museum).

    Navigated the subway (extremely clean, on time, and functional) – we did get lost a few times though. It puts USA transportation to shame.

    Hillary

    Loved Japanese etiquette – respectful, orderly, kind, and calm. Japan, you are her efficiency soulmate.

    Appreciated that prices were reasonable – at least relatively cheaper than expected. Don Quijote sold everything you could need. Favorite hobby: inspecting every item of packaging at the Drugstores (all in Japanese) with Google Translate.

    Had a washing machine at our apartment. Also, the shower turned into a dryer. Instead of an air vent to get the steam out, the bathroom fan had a heat mode. We hung our clothes in the shower and they dried after a few hours. Magic!

    Laughs:

    Ken became a huge fan of the “shoehorn” – every hotel supplied them. Made putting shoes on easy… but aren’t they for old men?

    We spent a month looking for “sakura” cherry blossoms (unfortunately, we were too early in March). News headline on our last day: Cherry Blossoms Season has begun!

    “Ja Ne” (see you later) Japan:

    We are saddened to depart Japan, as we could easily explore for another month or two. It was an exceptional cultural experience, unlike any country we’ve visited: sensory overload, modern yet traditional, simple but delicious foods. We wish everywhere we traveled was as warm and friendly as Japan. It’s an excellent place to be a foreign visitor and we would confidently recommend it to anyone. So, it’s “Ja Ne” for now, but we will return someday.    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 170

    Nagano, Japan

    March 25 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    When life tells you no, listen. Don’t fight it, watch as it unfolds. And you end up in places like Mikawa. And Ainakura. And Hakuba. They weren’t on your list, but well, somehow you were exactly where you needed to be. Like drinking whiskey with your host family until midnight. Bathing naked with strangers who love Ichiro. Walking alone in a snowstorm on a deserted road. And, it’s either tomorrow or not in this life. But let me back up.

    As a planner I don’t set out on an adventure unprepared. Except for this week, in which we 1) lost our transportation, 2) didn’t research accommodations, and 3) got hit by a huge snowstorm. The train station in Kyoto was a mess in this order: incorrectly paid for the wrong ticket and got booted from the platform by security. Found a kiosk and paid for the correct train fare. Got booted a second time because the train only has reserved seats. Walked all over the station looking for “green” to reserve seats, missed our train only to find out: it’s sold out anyways. Unknowingly purchase the only seats available on the upcoming trains (first class --- it was either that or ???). Ride first class (it’s brilliant), and then illegally transfer onto a local train without paying because your child’s dream is to see Red Pandas and a fortuitous small town apparently has a zoo?

    Frantically get your luggage out of the lockers and jump on the train to a town no one knows, but it has an available B&B. There is only one track, so you must be going in the right direction? It’s starting to rain. Stop for 45 mins at the transfer station. Pick up an adoring conversation with three 16-year-old girls (they’re smitten with your son) and do their English homework.

    Have the most exceptional dinner of poisonous puffer fish (your host drives you around because it’s a small town and he doesn’t trust Google Translate) and then drink whiskey all night with him and the other B&B patrons. Your son loves the Japanese room because he thinks he’s a character in Demon Slayer. Also, your host thinks you’re poor and you eat dinner at the 7-11. Hit up the local “onsen” (Japanese bath) with naked-uninhibited-jovial-elderly men. And now, it’s seriously snowing.

    Go to the next big town, but then get on the local, and I mean local, bus. Track your location on Google Maps like your life depends on it. Get off at a small station and go to the bathroom. Oops, you missed your bus. Just kidding, your husband does “his antics” and you get on the bus. You’re now on the tourist bus (Greyhound coach with English speaking driver) but the snowstorm arrives as you climb higher and higher up into the mountains. Depart the bus in a ghost town as the sun sets. Your host doesn’t speak English. You eat bear meat and try not to get bitten by Stink Bugs. A foot of snow comes down and you’re singing Christmas songs in March.

    At 11pm (remember it’s a snow storm) realize you’re six hours from the site of the 1998 Winter Olympics and your annual ski pass (which you purchased but didn’t use in Seattle) is valid for this exact resort in Japan. Wake your wife from slumber and tell her it’s either tomorrow or never (warm rain is forecasted in two days so, “you gots to go now”).

    So now valued friends, it’s Choose Your Own Adventure with: A) Hillary to trek through remote mountain villages, or B) Ken and Everett to the site of the 1998 winter Olympics (Tara Lapinski wins gold, anyone ?!?!?)

    Adventure A: Hillary
    It’s the next morning, and you get off at the wrong bus stop, on a deserted mountain road at 10am in a snowstorm. And you’re wearing tennis shoes because they’re the only shoes you own. You’re carrying a heavy pack, and there’s no sidewalk, so just walk on the snowy road and try not to get hit from behind. Seriously, begin to question your life choices and get a lump in your throat as the bus pulls away, because you won’t cry, damn it, but this was a mistake.

    Adventure B: Ken & Everett
    Realize Hillary got off at the wrong bus stop (in a snowstorm on a deserted mountain road). Frantically call and text her 20 times but she doesn’t pick up or respond. Classic Hillary. Realize she might be gone forever.

    Adventure A: Hillary
    Trek into a remote village of grass-thatch houses. Walk alone. You’re transported back into time like a fairy tale. Enjoy the peace, the rich cultural heritage, you’re soaked but the storm stops, and the sun comes out. And no one is here. Breathe the fresh air with a sigh of relief.

    Adventure B: Ken & Everett
    Take the bus, then a train, then the bullet train (run out of money, no ATM)…. and then another bus. Ok, it’s 6 hours later. Your hostel host picks you up and takes you to Lawson’s (your favorite convenience store). Stock up on fried chicken and candy, lots of candy. ‘Cuz Mom ain’t here and we need Dad Energy for the Boys Trip! Rent skis and gear (you have nothing), play video games at the hostel, and sleep in bunk beds. Fall asleep with confidence because You Can Do This!

    Adventure A: Hillary
    Ride the bus to another village of stunning landscapes and traditional buildings. Walk around charming 200-year-old houses. It’s filled with tourists but you don’t mind at all. Drink coffee. And then more coffee. Relax after another bus ride to your final destination. A quaint town in the mountains with wooden houses from the 1600’s. Walk down the narrow streets of the Old Town (a less touristed version of Kyoto). And then some wine and cheese. Then order a Mexican burrito for dinner because 1) you have been on the road too long, and 2) You Do What You Want.

    Adventure B: Ken & Everett
    Ski the Olympic slopes (your son out-ski’s you at ten years old), nearly break your knee because you’re too tall for the ski lift, stalk the elusive snow monkey, and spend too much time in the onsen … “awkward.” Take the bus back down the mountain into the city and relax at the hotel… you could see another shrine, but really… haven’t you seen enough? Instead watch a season of Avatar: The Last Airbender.

    Adventure A: Hillary
    Bask in the winter wonderland as you gaze out the bus window (you’re in a snow globe unaware of time) and arrive at the station 30 minutes late (unheard of in Japan!). You only have a 39 minute connection to catch your train, so high tail it across the station like you’re a former high school track star. Arrive at your train platform, out of breath, but with just enough breath to get a coffee from the vending machine (what are you a savage?), then collapse into your seat. Reconnect with your family… see they survived without you… have they been playing you this whole time and they are totally capable and self-sufficient on their own?!?!? Smell something weird, and realize you have been wearing the same outfit for seven days straight.

    Until next week, friends.    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 163

    Kyoto, Japan

    March 18 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    In Hiroshima we stayed in a quieter neighborhood (a la Outer Sunset of San Francisco), while all the crazy action was downtown (we renamed it The Wharf). While the city was completely destroyed by the atomic bomb, it has been largely rebuilt. There are reminders of the Atomic Bomb (for example ruins of a dome, as well as trees with signs that read: this tree survived the bombing). Everett enjoyed the castle with kitana displays, and we strolled through the city’s shopping markets (code word: way too many hours at the Pokemon card store).

    We liked our second bullet train, just as exhilarating as the first. This one was 16 cars long (the Nozomi), and we arrived in Osaka (“the kitchen of Japan.”). We visited some famous eateries, including this one featured on Netflix (Street Foods, Asia) where the chef uses a blowtorch to cook the fish. He even dips his hand in a bucket of ice which allows him to put his hand directly under the blowtorches flame for up to 10 seconds at a time. We also took a day trip back to Kobe to a wonderful anime “Naruto Theme Park” – Everett’s top choice for activity of course. (Shout out to Auntie Lia! for sponsoring the day). He learned to be a real ninja, climbed through a ropes course, searched for hidden Akatsuki, and studied all the Naruto hand signs. The Osaka Dotonbori canal-area neighborhood was completely overrun by tourists, neon lights, and crowded restaurants… but as the moniker suggests, we found great food.

    Next, we headed to Kyoto, just a short 30 min train ride to the north. We walked around the Gion district (famous for geisha and gorgeous traditional architecture) but to be honest, it was so crowded we couldn’t really enjoy it. We did love that people were wearing the traditional Japanese kimono costumes which added to the charm. The Bamboo Forest, one of Kyoto’s famous sites, was also immensely overcrowded, but Ken managed to hike his way into a remote area to get out of the madness. (Sidenote: we came to Japan in March thinking we were arriving before the famous spring “Cherry Blossom” festivities (April), but everyone must have the same idea to try to beat the crowds).

    Our favorite day in Kyoto we rented bikes and purposely rode away from the designated Tourist Sights. We ended up at a really nice Train Museum, full of local families mostly with young children, enjoying a park and learning about trains. The cutest local lunch spot served up fried chicken “Katsuya,” but we didn’t have cell signal so we couldn’t use Google Translate on our phones. We were really stumped and couldn’t even order. Everett became our translator, who seriously knows only ten phrases, but somehow, he communicated with the chef!

    In a twist of fate, Everett struck up a conversation with a Black Pilot from Seattle! They were kindred spirits, quizzing each other on obscure aircraft terminology and bonding over their love of all things aviation.

    We ate so much conveyor belt sushi, have accumulated bags of change (coins galore!!!), visited a million shrines (they are everywhere), and we are still laughing at Ken’s mysterious “evening walks” --- turns out every night he has been secretly window shopping at the 4-Story Electronics Mega Store nearby.

    Today we had a stressful day because we planned to pick up a rental car and drive into the mountains for the next seven days. Unfortunately, we realized Ken’s international driver’s license isn’t valid in Japan so we spent the day frantically canceling and rebooking transportation and accommodations. Normally, it wouldn’t be a big deal but everything desirable (near a train line) is sold out. We also realized the 10-day forecast is freezing rain and we are seriously under-prepared for mountain weather. Stay tuned for next week’s update because we are primed for either a huge debacle or a miracle.    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 155

    Fukuoka, Japan

    March 10 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    We opted for a one-night stopover in Manila in order to avoid a 5am flight and tight connection. While we didn’t see much of the city proper, we enjoyed our evening at the Mall of Asia and happily dined at Din Tai Fung (a favorite of ours – a Chinese restaurant with multiple locations in Seattle).

    Guys, I can’t tell you how happy we are to be in Japan. Everett has been talking about Japan for years and we finally arrived. We decided to fly into a southern island (Kyushu) with intentions to make our way north (and depart from Tokyo). First, we did not anticipate the weather – it is barely 50 degrees and we have no warm clothes. We’ve been in the heat for the last few months so it’s a nice change. Cue: Uniqlo shopping. Second, there is very limited and sporadic English. Japan is our 13th country and it’s the first time we are using Google Translate daily. While the language is already posing some challenges, we are getting by with a lot of hand gestures and laughing. Third, money – a 10,000-yen note is $67 and they are going quickly. “We’re not in the Philippines anymore.” The best part so far is finally arriving in a “normal” city (e.g., no tourists) where we aren’t the center of attention (constant, uncomfortable stares), and we can feel like regular people. The city is so clean, everyone is uber-polite, and since Everett is learning Japanese (Duolingo) we receive the most heart-warming giggles of surprise/affection at every interaction. We feel so welcomed. With a sigh of relief, everything is easy again.

    Week 1 Highlights:

    On our first night we ate at Ichiran, a well-known ramen chain. Food was ordered via a vending machine and served at individual dining stations.

    That evening at our hotel we happened upon a gathering and we did a Zoom call to a school in northern Thailand.

    Our hotel had a delightfully weird “cat and nautical” theme. I can’t make this up.

    We rode on a boat shaped like a swan (with a sign that read: “If you drop your phone into the lake, you will not get it back”).

    We visited our first shrine – Kushida.

    The toilet seats are heated and have interesting washing features. Toilet game is on point.

    NO ONE crosses the street until the sign says Walk, even if there are clearly no cars coming and it is totally safe to cross.

    We got lost in the Hakata Train Station (it’s massive!) and visited an underground mall (such beautiful clothes, ceramics, and home goods).

    We ate sushi and met the cutest elderly couple who have been running their restaurant since 1970! That’s 54 years!!

    People work late here; streets are full of business people (full suits with briefcases) leaving work at 7pm+.

    Every day we eat something from a vending machine – on every street corner, sometimes multiple machines, with everything you need (hot coffee, ramen, fried chicken, sushi, ice cream, etc.).

    The food is next level (favs so far: ramen, udon, sushi, sake, and a bunch of stuff in unidentifiable packages that we don’t know what it is) and even convenience stores sell delicious options -- our new Go To Item is $1 fried chicken at Lawson’s (like a 7-11).

    The trains are so clean and QUIET – Ken and Everett are way too loud to be Japanese.

    Everyone is fashionable and precise in their fit; we are frumpy, homeless backpackers in comparison.

    People are strangely helpful… not just pointing to what we need… but actually walking us to where we need to be… and then giving us a friendly wave goodbye and smile.

    The food portions are tiny. Like toddler-sized. Combined with the chopsticks… will we lose weight here?

    There are NO trash cans – anywhere. We have been carrying our garbage for blocks or even bringing it back to our hotel.

    People patiently wait in lines in places that are super crowded (train/bus/bathroom queues) and nobody gets upset about it??

    We rode on a bullet train (200 miles per hour!) from Fukuoka to Hiroshima. It felt like we were flying. Incredible. Actually, we felt queasy looking out the window.

    We had a hilarious conversation (entirely via hand gestures) with a spunky grandma (who spoke no English) as she cooked in front of us a delicious lunch of BBQ cabbage pancakes. We sat next to a Japanese Bruno Mars impersonator and an American air force linguist.

    And we drank coffee made on a bicycle.

    EVERY DAY is a unique experience and we are beyond grateful to be here.    Read more

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