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East to West

November 2016 - April 2017
A 156-day adventure by Phil and Beth Read more
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  • Phil and BethEast to West
    Day 64

    The Great Ocean Road

    January 15, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Leaving Melbourne in the mid morning, we set off in our car toward Australia's Great Ocean Road, which wends it's way along sheer cliffs, through dense forest and beside innumerable beaches. We planned to drive about 280km (175miles) of it over two days, so we could really enjoy it and take our time. The road was built by soldiers returning to Australia after World War One and largely was built using little machinery, creating a more direct route along the coast to join up a number of towns and serves as a memorial to their lost comrades.

    The drive south from Melbourne to where the road begins at Torquay took about an hour and a half and was uneventful before our first stop just outside the town.

    Torquay itself is a quaint seaside town with not a lot going for it so we instead stopped at the first of the many beaches we'd be passing over the next couple of days, called Bell's beach. A golden stretch of sand below sheer bush-topped cliffs, the beach isn't the main event here. Instead it's the world class surf that was playing host to a qualifying round of a junior's surfing competition. We enjoyed watching the powerful white waves carrying the surfers on the waves for a while but as it was really windy and quite cold (yes, cold!) we headed back to continue our drive.

    The next hours drive was to the town of Lorne and was possibly our favourite part of the road. The tarmac has been hewn and mined into the rock face adjacent to the sea all along this stretch of coast as well as passing half a dozen beaches, all of which were practically deserted. The road also has a great selection of lay-bys and viewpoints which meant it was rare for us to drive more than 10 minutes without stopping for a walk or selfie, all the time surrounded by stunning scenery.

    Follow this link for a quick video to give a taste of our experience: https://goo.gl/photos/skDc8eJPoyhbhsVt7

    We arrived into Lorne at lunch time and found that even though it wasn't hot or sunny the beach and promenade area were HEAVING with holidaymakers, foreign and domestic. Once we'd found somewhere to park we had a brief walk along the beach and surrounding shops and cafes, before deciding to find ourselves a more secluded spot to have our picnic, which we topped up with an award winning steak pie (FYI my time in Newcastle has made me too partial to Greggs, so while the pie was nice it wasn't as good as a steak bake!). We found our perfect spot at Teddy's Lookout, 5 minutes drive from the town it's a viewpoint on a hill about 80m above the road, winding over the mouth of a river with dense forest facing inland and uninterrupted sea facing out. We had a leisurely lunch but continued on the road shortly after.

    We took it in turns driving the nippy Micra and even though driving the road is a popular tourist attraction it didn't feel busy on the road or at the different stops we made aside the road. As I was driving past a campsite Beth suddenly called for me to stop as fast as I could, and after pulling over we ran across the road to where a wild koala was having a snooze in a low branch by the side of the road - how Beth spotted it as we went past at 50mph on the other side of the road I don't know but it meant we had the moment all to ourselves!

    By the time we arrived at our overnight stop of Apollo Bay it was 5pm and as we pulled up to our beachfront hostel the sun finally came out, which was just in time for us to take a walk along the best beach we'd seen all day. A huge bay of golden sand with turquoise water lapping at the shore. There were a few rock pools which I had a look in as we walked past, until out of nowhere an octopus appeared in one! We were captivated, watching it swim around the pool it had made it's home in for a while before our hunger got the better of us and we climbed through some dunes to the port where we had fresh fish and chips- a real seaside experience for us!

    It had gone dark now and after our little sleep the night before combined with a long day of driving we were ready to rest and crashed out until we were ready to carry on after a good night's sleep and a bacon sandwich the following morning!

    Unlike the first day it was a hot and sunny day, and we were glad of the AC as we drove through Great Otway National Park, with lush forest towering either side of the road. We stopped at Cape Otway lighthouse, one of a series built along the coast here in the early 1800s to reduce the ever-increasing toll on boats who found it hard not to get shipwrecked there, with over 200 lost in the period the lighthouses were being built.

    The next section of the road was further inland until just over an hour later we arrived at a place called Gibson's Steps, 70 odd steps down to yet another beautiful beach with a view of one part of The Twelve Apostles, the star attraction of the Great Ocean Road. The rock formations jut out of the ocean making for some very dramatic scenery and it was no surprise that we took loads of photos there!

    A short drive in land through more forested terrain took us to Port Campbell, a sleepy town with a handful of shops and cafes. The day was incredibly hot, especially compared to our first day on the road, so a heavily air conditioned restaurant made a very welcome stop for lunch before we continued on!

    Penultimate was a visit to 'London Bridge' which is a rock arch over the ocean with waves crashing through it. Until a few years ago there was a second arch adjacent to it but the 'bridges' only bare the weather so long before they collapse. This means that if you want to see the last bridge left there, go soon just in case!

    Finally we stopped at the ominous 'Grotto'. Sheltered above sea level but below the height of the surrounding cliffs was a small pool of crystal clear fresh water, viewed through an arch of stone. Nature created this through a sink hole that has carved a path toward the sea, leaving a beautiful and tranquil spot now. Sadly we couldn't swim in the water there due to the number of tourists who would do the same if it were allowed, but it suited us well anyway as we hopped back in the car and drove a highway back to the airport for our flight to Sydney. The couple of days were really incredible and we could have easily spent even longer at the various places along the route - it comes highly recommended by us!

    Phil    Read more

  • Phil and BethEast to West
    Day 70

    Sydney

    January 21, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We flew into Sydney arriving at 10pm so went straight to our prebooked hostel via an uber. Pretty much straight to bed, although the room was sweltering hot so wasn't the best nights sleep, so we slept in the next day. We got our bearings and did some jobs in the morning such as laundry and going to a supermarket, how glamorous life is on the road!

    About midday we got the train to go and explore the city. We walked out at Circular Quay station and it takes you right out onto a promenade area, with Harbour Bridge on your left and the Opera house on your right. Wow! It's very surreal to see such iconic buildings in person. We strolled down to the opera house and enjoyed taking it all in. At this point in the day it was 42 degrees and I'm not sure we've ever been in such heat, even the aussies were struggling.. so we had to keep stopping in the shade to recover. We walked on through the botanical gardens then back round to the harbour to head over to the famous bridge. We didn't realise how high the bridge is over the water, so we had to do a lot more walking up hill to get to walk over it. So we needed an ice cream stop then continued on.

    We got to the base of one of the pylons that supports the bridge and you can go inside to a lookout at the top. On the way up was also a exhibition of history about the bridge which was actually really interesting. It took 8 years to build, is an absolute feet of engineering and had some interesting stories. It was here long before the Sydney Opera house and in a lot of ways we feel more impressive. We got to the windy top and had some amazing views across the city.

    After this we strolled up Observatory hill behind the bridge, where there is a park that a lot of locals go to and it has a wonderful view of the bridge and city.
    At this point we were exhausted and hot, so headed back to the hostel for a home cooked meal of pasta and sauce (cheap and cheerful).

    After a very hot night we were up early for a tour to the Blue Mountains. It took an hour to get to one of the mountain towns where we stopped for a breakfast bite to eat, then we went off to our first valley stop with an amazing view. We then proceeded to do a mild hike down into the valley and up over a waterfall. We'd walk through overhanging rock faces and through the bush, every step another fantastic view. It was hard work as it was still 40 degrees but we took it slow, taking pictures and chatting to our leader Rod. Phil and I were at the back leisurely enjoying the surroundings, when Phil suddenly raced up to me saying he'd just seen a snake off the path staring at him. We described it to our leader and thankfully it was 'just a python' not one of the very poisonous ones... great. It was a beautiful walk, then we headed back to the bus for our next stop.

    Another amazing valley and another great walk to a smaller but higher waterfall and up through the bush a bit more. Our group did go very fast rushing through areas so Phil and I would hang back to enjoy the views and scenery more.

    Our next stop was lunch. Much needed by now after the heat and walking. We went to a local park and we had a buffet style make your own wraps station we made up. Rod our leader had a wrap with ham, cheese, salad, tomato, beetroot, pineapple and thousand island sauce. I thought this looked weird but he told me to be less British and try something different ha! And would you know, it was actually nice. Who would have thought.

    A few wraps later we went onwards to a secret viewpoint of the three sisters, the most famous viewpoint in the blue mountains, and there wasn't a soul there. It definitely was a secret spot and a fab view. After this we went to the main viewing area of the three sisters which was of course full of foreign tourists. Great to see it up close though.

    Finally we went to our last spot, another secret area which was our favourite. A huge rock outcrop that you can walk out on and you have a 360 degree view all around of the vast valleys and mountains. Stunning, and again only a few other people there. I was a little nervous as it was quite a drop, no barriers and windy, so I didn't venture too close to the edge. But sat and enjoyed the view all the same. It was now a little cooler and therefore able to enjoy the vast views and blue skies more.

    We got back to the city for around 5:30pm and was buzzing from such a great day, and just the type of relaxed, active, less touristy tours that we enjoy (check out the Happy Coach company Sydney if you are there and want to go). After another supermarket dinner at our hostel, we started to chatting to some french guys also staying there and ended up chatting and drinking til 1am. They were lovely and we had some great laughs as we tried to perfect their English and we attempted their accents.

    Our next day in Sydney we were slow getting up again after our late night. But once we got going we headed out to the coast. We went just south of Coogee beach to an ocean pool which I'd read about called Mahon pool. Which is essentially a giant rock pool that you can swim in. They are all over Australia, but this one was very quiet and had beautiful clear water, as well as surrounding impressive rock areas to sit and relax. It felt chilly at first, as it was subsatinally cooler that day and slightly overcast, but still very refreshing, and quite exciting having the waves wash over into the pool. After awhile we got out and enjoyed a picnic lunch on the neighbouring rocks. Definitely a lovely way to spend a Thursday morning! After we hopped onto a bus to Coogee beach to do the coastal walk from there to the famous Bondi beach.

    We went walking around bay after bay, and enjoying each small area along the walk. It takes roughly about 2 hours to do, although for us it was more like 3 as we were very tired and kept stopping for breaks and to look around. Each bay was full of surfers who are mesmerising to watch. The waves are not tame here and warnings everywhere about rip currents, and yet they are so graceful and in control, we loved watching them.
    Twisting between two bays was a large rocky outcrop with deep holes in the rock so we even had a natural 'stone sofa' with back rest which we sat in to watch the surf.
    One of the beaches we walked across was covered in small blue bottle jellyfish, we certainly weren't going to be swimming there (there was still people in the water though, crazy). Along the coastal walk there is a huge graveyard facing out to sea, which we ended up walking through, as the path was diverted through there because of coastal path damage. It had very elaborate grave stones and possibly one of the largest sites I've ever seen.

    Eventually we turned the corner and saw Bondi, the largest beach yet. We had a little stroll round there but then hopped on the bus back to the city, having had plenty of beach and sea time that day.
    After dinner at the hostel we decided to go see the city at night. So we went to Opera bar which is situated at the base of the Opera house and with a perfect view of the bridge and city skyline. It was all very beautiful lit up at night. We sat on the edge of the water, cocktail in hand and listened to some live music. Pretty perfect way to spend the evening.

    On our final day we woke to heavy rain. Undeterred we went to the city centre to get a ferry to the area of Manly. The ferry have some wonderful views so we enjoyed the 30 minute ride. Once there we walked to the main Manly beach and got very wet! Thankfully we found a picnic pavilion so could get cover while we had our sandwiches for lunch. Suddenly the rained stopped and the sun came out, just in time. We wanted to go to the Q station, now a museum and resort but was once the Quarantine station for all ships if people were suspected of carrying illness, so as to stop it spreading to Australia. We missed the bus by 30 seconds so waited with a delicious ice cream for an hour for the next one.

    Once we got there we walked down through the different areas (originally third class, second and first class areas, and asiatic class were segregated). Of course first class had the best sea views. The area led down onto a private beach which is the same one quarantined people would have played on. Sometimes the quarantine experience was like a mini holiday if they weren't ill, and just had to wait out some time to ensure they weren't incubating illness. We went round the museum which was fascinating with great detail, personal accounts and artifacts. It talked about all the pandemics they managed to control spreading through Australia because of quarantining like the bubonic plague and Spanish influenza. There was also also a large rock face just outside which was covered in "grafitti" of people who had stayed there with messages of remembrance or poetry of their time there. Quite an amazing pocket of history there.

    We were there a lot longer than expected so had to get back asap to get ready for our evening plans. Missing the bus again by 30 seconds so we weren't getting very lucky!

    However we got back, freshened up and headed out to Bondi to meet my good friend Katie who I used to work with, and moved out to Sydney nearly 6 months ago. We sat on a lovely restaurant veranda and ate delicious food while we had a major catchup. It was so great to see her, for her to meet Phil and to hear how she was getting on down under. Loving it of course. We went on to a bar for another drink and really enjoyed chatting away and exchanging stories. It really was wonderful to see her.

    Next morning we were up early ready to continue north up to Brisbane and leave the bright lights behind.

    Beth    Read more

  • Phil and BethEast to West
    Day 71

    Brisbane

    January 22, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Arriving into Brisbane mid morning we collected our hire car for the next ten days so that we can travel at our own pace...and actually decide what we want to do, as our planning became a bit poor at this point!

    We dropped our bags off at an Airbnb we were staying at and were greeted by the owners and their friendly cavalier pups. Wanting to make the most of the day we headed straight back out to the nearby Mount Coot-Tha, which has a lookout with views for miles in every direction including over the whole of Brisbane CBD (Central Business District). We had incredible views and enjoyed an ice cream while taking it in, until we saw a rainstorm coming. Just as we got back to the car the deluge began - there's something about us and being in high places when it rains loads!!

    After the busy few days we'd had we called it a day there and enjoyed a relaxed evening, accompanied by the dogs (they enjoyed sitting all over us more than we did I think!)

    Up early the next day as we had big plans for the day - Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. We arrived there shortly after they opened as we knew we had loads we wanted to see there, starting with a predator bird display. The sanctuary takes in injured and recovering animals but all were very beautiful and flew obediently for the crowd, including right above our heads!

    Next we went to the open feeding area for wallabies and kangaroos, after buying a couple of bags of feed so we could make the most of the hands-on experience! The enclosure was a large green area with plenty of shade and plant life, and there were in excess of fifty animals lazing around. Although it was only 11am it was already very hot and the animals were making the most of the visitor's enthusiasm to interact with them, mostly lying in one spot while simultaneously being fed and pooping - that's the life!

    We dutifully fed a few that were brave enough to leave their shaded beds and as we fed them we stroked them, took photos of them and simply enjoyed being around them. All of them really didn't mind us being around them which meant we could relax and just enjoy it, although we were aware that the smaller ones looked strong and the bigger 'roos looked ripped!

    After a while we left the feeding area to walk around the rest of the park and the other animals that live there. Rightly so the zoo is focused on Australian animals so it was great to see some of the (innumerable) varieties of dangerous snakes in a safe way, wombats and then a platypus swimming happily around it's enclosure as it tore apart its lunch of shrimp - they're very difficult to find creatures so it was fantastic to see one while it was so active.

    The best was yet to come though. As you guessed by the name the Sanctuary houses koalas, and lots of them. Dozens, of all different ages and sizes, were viewable and even though they sleep for 22 hours a day we saw so many active. The main draw at the Sanctuary is the opportunity to cuddle a koala - yep, we did it!

    After a short queue while our excitement built up we stood in position and a keeper handed Cordelia (sister of Hamlet, another resident there!) to Beth. She hung onto Beth happily and as I stood next to Beth she kept looking around at us, obviously not so keen on posing for the photo we had taken, although we got a great photo to remember such a special experience. You wouldn't expect them to be so soft and fluffy as they are, or as cuddly - Beth was ecstatic afterwards and would have happily done it again and again!

    Finishing the Sanctuary on such a high note we went for our picnic just outside the park gates, adjacent to a beautiful river. We've had no difficulty in finding places to picnic here, as everywhere we go there are public toilets, water fountains and picnic spots which are all clean and well maintained. This is brilliant as we're taking picnics almost every day to help save money, and it means we can really justify having an ice cream every day too!

    In the afternoon we visited Brisbane's Mount Coot-Tha Botanical Gardens, the larger of their two sites. The site didn't feel huge but was laid out very well with themed gardens and lawns, with our favourites being the Japanese Gardens that were built in the '80s by the Japanese government as a gift for the expo hosted there - it was like being transported to Japan for a walk about!

    As we strolled around we stopped regularly as the humidity was higher here than it had been for the last couple of weeks in Australia. Everywhere we went there were lizards running about, with some being so brave as to run right up to us - a good day for meeting wildlife up close!

    We enjoyed another relaxed evening before we got up early the next day ready to travel north to Noosa, a VERY SHORT 2 hour drive away - we can't forget how big Australia is!

    Phil    Read more

  • Phil and BethEast to West
    Day 72

    Noosa

    January 23, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We left Brisbane and drove north to Noosa Heads, a popular spot for Australian tourists because of its chilled vibe and beautiful beach.
    We drove straight to their main beach and got very lucky to grab a parking space very close. We walked straight onto the white sand that spread across in a big bay that held gorgeous calm turquoise waters. Very quickly we joined the other families in the water, it was so refreshing as it was incredibly hot. Shortly after we had our picnic lunch, an ice cream and a stroll round the surrounding area. Great way to spend a leisurely afternoon, and a great introduction to the area.

    We went on to our airbnb hosts that lived only a 10 minutes drive away by the Noosa river and was a lovely area. They had a stunning home with their own pool and we had a warm welcome. After a few glasses of wine and enjoying getting to know our hosts, who were very friendly (and both volunteered for the information centre so also very knowledgeable!). For dinner we went down on the river itself and ended having a cheap but devious Thai meal right by the water.

    The next day we got up early to try and beat the heat and went to Noosa National park, which is only down the road from the main beach area. We were lucky again and got a parking space by the entrance and began the coastal walk through the park. Immediately you saw the sparkling waters and a bright blue sky as your view. So beautiful! These waters were some of the nicest we'd ever seen, and looked very inviting. The walk itself was 5km each way so we took it slowly and enjoyed the surroundings, with the lovely sea views on your left and luscious trees and foliage on your right. There was also very tall gum (eucalyptus) trees where we even spotted a wild koala asleep up high in the branches. I never tire of seeing them.

    As it was getting hotter the walk got tougher but we persevered and the views were breathtaking. We got to a great view at Alexander point then made our return, enjoying each step. We decided to continue walking beyond the car park and go down to main beach again as it was only another 15 minute walk or so. Again on arrival we plunged into that amazing sea. One thing that was so great about this beach was the calm waters as waves can get quite rough in Australia with strong rip currents, but none here. Furthermore minimal to no risks of sharks or jellyfish - my kind of beach! Again we had an ice cream from a different gelato shop and had a relax on the sand.
    We got back home for around 4pm and had a swim at the pool there. The sea is great but it is so salty here it's nice to have freshwater swims or showers after. Our hosts had offered to host a bbq for us that evening starting from 5:30pm so we made sure we were ready. We provided the wine and they provided a great array of food, including lamb, beef, sausages and of course shrimp on that barby! For dessert they also Bbqed mango, which had been soaked in alcohol and sugar which they then blowtorched on top. Served with vanilla ice cream and it was a delicious end to the meal. Maybe we'll try and recreate it at home.

    The next day we got up even earlier to head to a famous market called Enumudi market. It's every Wednesday and Saturday so we were in luck and our hosts insisted we go. It was a huge affair with so many creative stalls, so many things we could have brought if it was just a holiday and we could have got things home. Although we did get some creative ideas as some of things with some practise you could make yourself. There was an impressive food section of fresh food stalls and it was hard to choose, so we got some fancy salads ready for a picnic lunch later and indulged in something as a mid morning treat. We had a Gozleme which is Turkish bread with spinach and feta stuffed inside served hot. Highly recommend it! The market had a great atmosphere and it was fun to stroll around for a few hours.

    We then went on to Noosa river and enjoyed a picnic lunch on the banks. It was so hot now and we felt quite tired so decided to go for a swim. In our walk through the national park there were so many hidden swimming spots that we didn't take advantage of so we decided to go back and cool off there. As it turns out we really needed to as we got so hot doing that scenic walk again! But it was great to see it again and we ended up finding a large rock pool which we saw people swimming in, so we ventured down too. Not long after they left, meaning we had it all to ourselves and it was glorious. Crystal clear water, and some shelter from waves, although they would pour into the pool which was cool (although I was sometimes a little edgy in case some tropical animal was brought in). But it was amazing to be somewhere so natural. On the way back we stopped at another beach cove for a sea dip, it really is the perfect way to cool down.

    At this point we hurried back to the car as we'd lost track of time and wanted to catch an affordable sunset river cruise. We made it in time and sat back and enjoyed the ride. It was a beautiful river very unspoilt (although I did enjoy looking at the few millionaires houses on the banks). Talking of which we even passed an island on the one side which is actually one of Richard Bransons private islands, which you can rent out when he's not there. It can have 20 people and costs £15,000 a night... interested?
    Anyway we glided on and enjoyed the scenery and the beginning of a stunning sunset. At one point the boat was stopped as it is a kite nesting area and the captain threw fish into the air and they'd swoop down to get it. We loved seeing them in action and they accuracy was so impressive, exciting seeing them up close too. There were some annoying sea birds that came along though nd even got cheeky taking some from the captains hand at one point.

    Onwards we drifted until we hit a large lake and the sun set right in front of us. It was blindly beautiful, as it seems all sunsets are in Australia.

    Once back at the marina Phil and ate a basic picnic dinner on the waters edge, our time closing in the very relaxing and beautiful area of Noosa.

    Beth    Read more

  • Phil and BethEast to West
    Day 78

    Byron Bay and around

    January 29, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    For our first morning back in New South Wales state we'd been recommended a visit to Bangalow market where we could browse some fun stuff and pick up some bits for lunch, which sounded great and luckily it was being held on this Sunday...except it wasn't! We realised when we arrived at the empty field where it would have been held that January had five Sundays instead of four, so we'd missed the market by a whole week!

    Thankfully our detour was still in the direction of our second stop for the day, Byron Bay. We drove straight to the lighthouse, following a very narrow road until we made it to a teeny car park perched on the cliff edge, but as we were right at the lighthouse we were happy with the one hour time limit imposed there.

    A short walk from the car took us to the base of the lighthouse with incredible views back over the sandy bay and in the other direction the expansive ocean. There was a small museum at the base of the lighthouse which we enjoyed but sadly there were no tours for us to go up the tower. Instead we walked a little of the coastal path that leads back to Byron. We didn't get very far before we saw a pod of dolphins swimming 50m below the cliffs where we were standing, and despite the height we were at they were so clear against the turquoise blue coloured sea. We watched them for a while and also saw a ray of some kind, so it was quite the experience.

    By the time we'd walked back to the lighthouse our hour was up which was fine although we realised we hadn't followed the track far enough along to the most easterly point of Australia - we knew we were coming back though so weren't too concerned...

    After a short drive back to town we parked the car (and yes, we paid this time!) and went for a walk around the town. Overall it felt much like a lot of the towns that line Australia's coast, with snazzy boutiques and health-conscious cafes everywhere, so we made a beeline for the beach and this worked out well for us. We bought a sharing platter of fish and chips as takeaway and then sat watching people milling about on the beach and park area as we tucked in, which was brilliant!

    Again we were limited by the parking limit for the car so had to leave Byron at that point. We travelled south back towards where we were staying in Ballina but stopped before we made it back in an area called Lennox Heads, home to a huge stretch of golden sandy beach and a large lake that backs onto the sand dunes. Of the two the lake is much more popular, for a few reasons.

    All of the East coast has varying levels of dangerous aquatic life but Lennox Heads has a lot of jellyfish and sharks, so like almost everyone else we chose to relax at the lake instead. It's large enough that you couldn't swim from side to side easily and therefore it has plenty of space for the number of people there, including leafy shade at the edges. But what's so special about this lake is the water itself and is also the reason for Lake Ainsworth's nickname of Coca Cola Lake. A number of the trees around the water are tea tree and they leech oil into the water, staining it brown and giving it a slightly oily feel to it. Once you get used to not seeing anything more than 30cm away from your eyes and the very strange colour of the water it's really fun and felt great on our skin.

    We swam a few times and lazed in the shade while drying off and even after a short walk on the beach we were drawn back to the lake. We popped back to our hotel to collect some food and then went back to the lake in time to watch the sunset as we ate our dinner, which was an awesome way to end a day exploring the area.

    We made sure not to have a late night as we planned a very early start the next day, but even so the 4.30 alarm was not welcome. Why so early? We were going back to Cape Byron and the Lighthouse to see the sunrise. Being the most easterly point of Australia means it gets the first sun of the whole country and we couldn't miss the opportunity to experience that!

    We'd been told that a good place to start the walk would be from 'The Pass' where there's a car park with lots of spaces and also it isn't too far from the viewpoint and lighthouse. We got there at about 5.30am and found that there was LOADS of parking - great - but the reason was because the parking restrictions started at 6, meaning we had to wait til then to buy a ticket before we could begin the walk along the track. This wouldn't have been a problem except that the track would take 30-40 minutes at a fair pace and the sun was due to rise at 6.15! Now I'm not one for dramatics but I may have suggested we give up at that point...thankfully Beth pushed me onwards and we ended up practically running up the hill tracks to get to the viewpoint and although it was quite cool at that time of day we were both reaallly hot and sweaty but we made it in time to welcome the day as the sky lit up beautifully! We spent an hour or so walking about and up to the lighthouse, all the while with the sun rising and changing the sky. We found it incredible that apart from a handful of other tourists the only other people around were joggers and a class of teenagers with their teacher, having a lesson in the shade of the lighthouse - what a classroom.

    Once we'd cooled off, enjoyed the sunrise and taken copious amounts of photos we followed the path back to the car, passing a few surfers making the most of the early morning waves. We went the short ten minute drive to the centre of Byron for a good breakfast, both of us having really good eggs benedict, then feeling refuelled we took to the road once more.

    Near to Byron Bay is a national park called Broken Head, with dense forest clinging to a coast of rocky cliffs and sandy bays, and we wanted to relax on a beach and swim in the sea and this is one of the safer places to do that. We drove down a rough dirt track deep into the park until a sign indicated we'd arrived at Whites Beach, and as we got our bag together to go down the 200ish steps to the beach a couple of other people left, meaning that when we got to the sand we were the only people there, with the hidden cove to ourselves! Even though Beth told me a story of a recent shark attack in the area I wasn't going to let that stop me from cooling off so while she stood ankle deep splashing the water over her shoulders I enjoyed diving under the waves. Of course my eyes were darting everywhere just in case...

    A few other people had turned up at this point and joined us in the water, until the tide turned and started carrying hundreds of blue bottle jellyfish with each wave and onto the beach. They seem to appear at almost every beach and we've since found out they give a very nasty sting, so our caution was justified!

    We had planned one more stop for the day so it was time for us to leave our (near enough) private beach and drive north to Cudgen Creek, near to the town of Kingscliff. This was another of Beth's finds and proved to be one of our favourites. Where a river meets the ocean a swimming creek has developed, with sandy beaches, shaded trees and crystal clear water all in aces. We went straight into the water when we arrived and werre surrounded by fish in there, thankfully none dangerous or scary...although Beth chose this as another time to tell me that dolphins had previously been spotted swimming up the river and past people. Awesome, right?! Wrong - they were being pursued by a shark! Our swimming was decidedly less eventful than that but it really was a beautiful place to relax for a couple of hours, and of course to eat our picnic.

    The final leg of our journey was a further hour north to Kangaroo Point, Brisbane. We arrived just as rush hour kicked off and we left the car behind to go explore some of the CBD (Central Business District). We walked around Kangaroo Point park and down to the river where we hopped on a ferry to take us over the river to a marina type foodie area, where we found a restaurant slightly back from the water to eat at.

    As we finished it was starting to go dark so we went back onto the ferry to cross the river back to where we had been before, and this was just as the sun began to set and the city began to light up for the night. Although the ferry crossing was probably only 10 minutes long it was really great to see the different perspective being on the water at that time, and as we were enjoying the balmy evening so much we walked along a boardwalk suspended over the river's edge for a half hour until we reached a sheer staircase up the cliff to the park we'd explored earlier in the afternoon.

    By this time we were completely exhausted so collapsed into bed before leaving early the following morning to head to the airport ready to fly up to our next stop, Airlie Beach.    Read more

  • Phil and BethEast to West
    Day 80

    Queensland's National Parks

    January 31, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Planning for two days exploring some of the huge and incredibly varied national parks, we based ourselves in a small town called Nerang. It's central to the two parks we wanted to visit - Lamington and Springbrook.

    We arrived at the home of our Airbnb hosts Phil and Vieng at lunch time as we had been invited to their Australia Day BBQ. It was a very hot and humid day so their other friends and guests were gathered under a canopy next to the pool. We enjoyed chatting with the others, including a Malaysian lady who entertained us all with stories of her varied and exciting life as an investigative journalist, like when she was happy to speak out against the government in Malaysia that led to her asking police to put her in prison! After we had our fill of the delicious spread the pool became too inviting and half of us ended up swimming, while the others took some fun Australia Day themed photos.

    The afternoon and evening blurred together, and before we knew it we were falling asleep and we'd thoroughly enjoyed a very Aussie Australia Day!

    We got up early the next day to head into Lamington National Park. The park is over 200sq km in size, so we aimed for the centre where there were a number of walking tracks, about 1 hour from Nerang. The road wove it's way higher and higher, often right on the edge of huge canyons and falls so much so that Beth couldn't face driving it anymore! We arrived safely at the central car park though and decided on a 4km track that would take us to the Bellbird Lookout.

    As we had driven to where we had parked we'd ascended to a considerable height and the walk we wanted to do took us deep into temperate forest, with a cool rain hanging in the air. We equipped ourselves with an umbrella and our walking boots and set off, eventually finding ourselves surrounded only by lush green growth and the sounds of the wildlife. Unfortunately just as we arrived at the lookout the rain started to pick up a bit, and to be honest the lookout didn't serve it's purpose too well as the view was blocked by a dozen trees and bushes, so we couldn't see much of the area after all.

    We stopped briefly, thinking we'd find shelter and eat our picnic at the lookout however the two leeches working their way up my leg changed our minds, so we trekked back through the woods to a middle-of-nowhere type cafe. After eating our picnic (inside thanks to the now torrential rain) we chomped on the Aussie favourite of Lamington cake - vanilla and chocolate sponge cake, coated with chocolate and sprinkled with coconut. It's very appropriate that we really enjoyed our Lamington cake in it's namesake national park!

    As the rain settled in for the afternoon (and I found another 3 leeches!) we called it a day there and headed back to our house to sort out a few jobs, also hoping it would be sunnier there so we could swim again...it wasn't!

    Our final day in the Queensland area began with another early start as we wanted a full day in Springbrook National Park. We made a slight detour to another beauty spot, named Natural Bridge. Here we walked paths down hill a few hundred metres before catching a glimpse through the trees of a tiny stream. Another hundred metres or so and we arrived at a viewpoint over the GIANT waterfall that appears suddenly from the stream. The water has such power that it has - over millions of years - carved a hole down through the rock, then out the side of the rock face which is how the 'bridge' has been formed. It's a very spectacular sight and we walked down into the cave that surrounds the waterfall. At night in this cave you're able to see thousands of glow worms, but as we were there during the morning they were invisible to us, however there were small bats flittering about over our heads although their recognisable squeaks and calls were inaudible as the waterfall thundered next to us. We enjoyed walking around the rest of the area, experiencing the peacefulness of the woods.

    A while later we continued the journey into Springbrook. The drive there was a similar distance as the day before and with similar roads, so when we arrived 3000ft above sea level we were immediately greeted with an incredible view through the mountains and all the way to the city of Surfer's Paradise on the coast.

    We picked up a map of the area that showed 5 recommended view points and beauty spots, some with a walk/hike and others right next to a car park. We'd already experienced our first and wanted to visit the rest throughout the day so next we drove about 30 minutes further into the national park. We were ready for a walk about with the end goal being a 50m waterfall, but once again a torrential downpour held us under shelter. Similarly to Lamington the temperature here was much cooler but once the rain had lightened we started walking into tropical rainforest and the humidity began to climb - if you imagine what a typical rainforest would feel like then you'd be about right for the area we were in at that point.

    The walk was through forest and across the river a couple of times but wasn't too taxing and took us about 20 minutes before we arrived at the top of the cliff edge, just along from where the top of the water was cascading over the edge and down into the valley. The sky had cleared by this time so we and the previously-cloudy valley were blasted by the sun, giving us a need for some shade but also incredible views of the picturesque landscape ahead of us. There were a few other viewpoints we walked to and they all had incredible views and we could see a path leading down into the valley but decided against this as the signs marked it as an 8km round trip... instead we had a leisurely lunch at a cosy cafe, sat on a veranda overlooking their garden.

    We were ready to continue a couple of hours later and whilst driving we mistakenly bypassed two lookouts and ended up at the highest point of Springbrook at the aptly named Best of All Lookout. This was a few hundred metres higher than earlier and again the temperature dropped. We walked along a path through temperate rainforest, a thick tree canopy high above our heads sheltering the ground from the sun. This meant that a heavy fog drifted between the trees and across boulders, deadfall and the occasional downed tree trunk and everything was covered in thick algae or moss. The sun kept breaking through though in thin beam-like bursts, giving the whole forest a very mysterious feel. The cherry on top? The sounds of the rainforest - birds singing to each other and who-knows-what calling out. This was a little ruined by a rowdy young family who were also walking the path, screaming, shouting and even blowing a whistle...! Kids!

    Anyway the walk only took 10 minutes before we found ourselves at the Lookout and boy were they right when they named it! We could see over nearby mountains, towns looked tiny and the ocean felt almost within reach - we could even see the crescent shaped beach at Byron Bay nearly 50 miles away! We were both amazed and spent a good time there taking it in. When we went back to the car we decided to skip the two other lookouts altogether, partly due to time restraints but mainly as we knew they wouldn't be impressive after Best of All!

    Weaving our way back down the mountain we then took the M1 highway 20 miles south of Byron Bay to Ballina, a gentle holiday town on the coast. We knew we'd arrived when Beth started shouting excitedly "THE GIANT PRAWN, THE GIANT PRAWN!" I'm sure you'll be as confused as I was to see a 20m high prawn appearing ahead of us and of course we stopped for a few photos - bizarrely it's in the car park of a DIY shop and simply recognises the Ballina area's exceptional quality of seafood, although otherwise it is as random as it sounds, and has become a bit of a tourist landmark!

    The giant prawn signalled our arrival as our motel was only down the road, and by this point we were ready to be out the car and to explore the area.

    Phil    Read more

  • Phil and BethEast to West
    Day 82

    Sailing the Whitsundays

    February 2, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    It was time to set sail!
    We arrived in Airlie beach which is the main area to get sailing trips out to the Whitsunday islands. We booked a two night trip on a catamaran and couldn't wait to get out on to the water.

    Our boat was called 'On Ice' and it was beautiful! It had a dining area inside and out with a shade canopy, as well as a huge hammock area over the water at the front. Inside were several cabins and even a double bed long enough for Phil. There were 10 passengers in total on board so it was a nice sized group and everyone was lovely. There was also our Skipper Dave who we weren't so keen on as he had a bad attitude, but he knew his stuff about sailing so that's all the mattered, plus there was a deckhand called Julia who was so nice it made up for him!

    We departed at 4pm on the first day and enjoyed getting to know each other as we sailed out to one of the islands to anchor for the evening. We had a delicious feast and a lot of laughs as we exchanged travelling experiences that evening, and some people including Phil had a quick dive off the boat to freshen up! As the light disappeared we started to see the first few stars come out. By the time it was properly dark the sky was awash with more stars than I have ever seen in my life. It was full, the darkness pin-pricked all over with the stars. We could clearly see the milky way stretching out and moving across the sky, as well as shooting stars, Orion's body as well as belt and the southern cross (a constellation only seen in the southern hemisphere). Magical is the only way I can describe it... looking up at the view while gently rocking on the water.

    First thing in the morning we got our snorkel gear and stinger suits on ready to snorkel this spot (Blue Pearl bay). The coral wasn't too deep here so instantly you saw fish and bright coral the second you got under the water. Instantly I knew this was better snorkeling I'd previously done as the array of colours greeting me was stunning. We saw friendly clownfish in their soft anenome, large parrot fish, angel fish and more. Beyond this though I couldn't believe the colour of the coral, and how it all moved. We saw dark blue clams who closed as you swam over them, and bright lilac coral that looked like someone had dropped a paint bomb on them. We loved it!
    After this we sailed on to our next snorkeling spot. Unfortunately we went further out to sea for this and it got very rough so several people felt ill including Phil. This was understandable as it was so rough we were being thrown over waves and water would smash over the front of the boat, and sometimes as far as over the entire cabin, soaking us sat at the back. To be honest this was quite scary as the amount of water coming over was crazy. And one couple were stuck at the front of the boat not just getting soaked but having to hang on tight to not fly overboard. Thankfully this only last about 30 minutes and we hit calm waters again. Not keen on reliving that though...
    We arrived at our next snorkel spot and here lived a lot more fish and some giants. There were at least 3 fish that were like groupers (Wrasse fish), incredibly bright coloured and genuinely bigger than Phils torso and much wider. Dave the skipper was feeding them some fruit from the small boat so there was lots of other fish swarming too so it was like a colour whirlwind that you were caught up in. Occasionally I'd make eye contact with a fish and they'd freak out and swim away which was funny. In the madness one of the giant Wrasse fish bumped into me and I squealed just because of the size. It was incredible though, and enjoyed continuing to snorkel around the coral too. You always see new things with snorkeling so it's constantly interesting.
    After a yummy lunch we sailed on 2 hours to Tongue Bay which gives you access to Whitehaven beach and the hill inlet viewpoint.
    The beach is as expected stunning. It has white squeaky silicon sand and the clearest waters you'll ever see. We even saw stingrays glide around in the shallows. The time of day we went meant there was not many people and we ended up being the last people there! Perfect! We wandered up to the hill inlet view and honestly the view is unreal. You see the swirls of blue water and the different bays of the islands laid out in front of you. Truly one of the best views I've ever seen. We loved our few hours here, it was as you would imagine paradise to be.
    For the evening we went to another bay which is where we'd be doing activities in the morning and settled there for another night.

    The next day we woke up excited to try paddle boarding for the first time, and to go out in their clear kayak! Paddle boarding was a lot of fun but not that easy, it took some attempts for us both to be able to stand up but we managed it. It requires a lot of core and upper body strength though so was knackering very quickly. After this we went out in their see through kayak and made sure to go over the nearby coral which was so cool.

    Shortly after we moved on to another area that's known largely for sea turtles and again great snorkeling. We took to the water and was initially startled to see an incredible amount of jellyfish. It did make us a little nervous as they were small, and it can be the small ones that are dangerous. Luckily there was no problems so they must have been safe ones.The snorkeling again was amazing although sadly we didn't see any turtles. Nature spotting is all about luck and it wasn't to be that day.

    By now we headed back on board for a final lunch with everyone and to sail back to Airlie Beach.

    Truly this was a once in a lifetime experience and we definitely recommend the Whitsundays, they are so beautiful. We left on a high and can confidently say it's been one of our highlights of Australia so far.

    Beth    Read more

  • Phil and BethEast to West
    Day 88

    Cairns

    February 8, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We slept badly overnight on a ten hour coach from Airlie Beach and arrived at 5.30am to torrential rain that had been with us for a good few hours on the journey. We took a taxi from the bus station straight to our hotel and arrived to locked doors and no one around...it turned out that their 24/7 reception was actually only open from 9am but their out of hours service remotely opened the door for us and then we collapsed on the sofa in the lobby and slept!

    A few hours passed before the owner arrived and thankfully let us check in early, so we dropped our bags, had a quick wash and then headed out into the downpour to go to Cairns Central Mall. It was only a ten minute walk but by the time we got there we were soaked to our skin, but we had a good breakfast to improve our moods and then spent a few hours looking around and picking up a few things we needed. We hadn't anticipated that it would still be raining so gave up on the idea of looking around the city more and instead went back to our hotel to relax and sleep the rest of the day in preparation for the next couple of days ahead that we had planned.

    7.30am came around very quickly and we were picked up by Joey from Uncle Brian's Rainforest Tours, a young and very chilled out guy in a mini van painted with colourful animals and plant life. He roared us around the city picking up the rest of our tour group before driving us out to the Atherton Tablelands where we'd be spending the day. We didn't know a lot about the tour but had been told to bring everything from hiking boots and a raincoat to swimwear and suncream. Joey told us we'd spend the day swimming, eating, swimming some more, eating some more...you get the idea. He was really right!

    Our first stop was at the Babinda Boulders. When we arrived Joey took us for a walk into the rainforest and showed us some of the plants, including the Australian version of a stinging nettle. We were told a story of a British soldier stationed there during World War Two who was stung by them and he was in such agonising pain he shot himself straight away...we were quite glad we’d been told about them so we knew to avoid them, but it would have been great to know about them before we’d done all of our hiking around the country’s forests!

    To give you an idea of Joey’s character he would tell the group stories of some of the things he did as a kid, like swimming in waterfalls on private land then when he was chased by the owner he’d throw stones at them and eat their sugarcane… Anyway, while showing us around the forest he caught a horse-fly type creature and put it into his shirt pocket, saving it so he could feed it to a big spider for us to watch. He didn’t find any spiders and forgot about the fly until about an hour later when driving the van and he realised that it was still trying to bite him through his shirt!

    Anyway back to the rainforest. We were also shown Devil’s Pool. The story goes that there were two rival tribes and a young girl fell in love with a boy from the other tribe. They weren’t allowed to be together so ran away and spent one night together until they were caught by the tribal trackers. At that point the girl was separated from the boy and she cried so hard that the pool filled with her tears, then she threw herself into the water to commit suicide. Before this she cursed the pools and said she would take the life of a young man aged 17-24 every year. Pretty morbid, and a touch farfetched? Thirty men that age have died in that area in the water...spooky!

    After being shown around we had a ‘safety briefing’ that highlighted all of the danger of swimming in another nearby pool (not Devil’s Pool, don’t worry!) however it felt very safe to swim there. There were trees you could climb and jump out of but I was happy climbing a boulder and bombing the water below it. It was quite cold but very refreshing! When we were out of the water we were given cake and drinks - the feeding had begun!

    A short drive later and we arrived at our next stop, Josephine Falls. On the drive there Joey warned us that because of recent heavy rain the water could be too powerful for us to be able to swim there and when we arrived there was a large sign put out highlighting the risk of flash flooding and strong currents, finishing with STRICTLY NO SWIMMING! We took a short walk around the paths to see the powerful waterfall and surrounding forest and the area was really beautiful. The group met back a short while later near to a rapids-like area where we were told that, after checking with the park rangers it was decided we could swim and were given some very strict instructions on what to do.

    Essentially we had to climb over some rocks and tree roots and then jump into a fast moving current of water. This water carried you across the pool and toward some rapids at which point you SWIM HARD out of there and toward a sloped rock, walk up the rock and then along the top of it. This rock had another pool behind it and the water from this ran down the sloped rock further along from where we walked. Why do all of this? So we could slide down the wet rock, it’s a natural water slide! I was happy to go for it and, apart from slipping on a rock getting into the water it all went well and it was awesome! It was a short slope, about 15m long and therefore you didn’t get too fast and the water wasn’t too powerful but was still exhilarating. Beth came in at this point and had two runs down it! It was really great fun and once we were out of the water we were both on a real high as we headed to our lunch stop. As we pulled away from the car park Joey joked with us about the area being amongst the most deadly in Queensland state, and we all swam in it!

    It was good to rest over lunch and then it was only a short drive to Millaa Millaa falls. They’re 20m high and the water is freezing cold. It’s the location of the music video for Peter Andre’s song Mysterious Girl and has also featured in a herbal essences advert. Cue the wet hair flicks in front of the waterfall as Joey snapped away - it was pretty good fun!

    Our final stop was Lake Eachin, atop a dormant volcano. It was 60m deep and is filled with rainwater and at some time it rained fish into the volcano. We also saw bottom-feeding turtles swimming around, as these were introduced at some stage. There were also a number of warning signs around the area about the crocodile that lives there, as someone put one into the lake! Again, this didn’t stop us swimming in the warm water there, although by this stage we and the group were beginning to flag after the full-on day we’d had so a short while later we had our final snacks and drinks then were driven back into the city, arriving at 8pm completely exhausted!

    The following morning we’d booked to go on a boat tour to the Great Barrier Reef! Many phone calls had been made and despite the many conversations we had the nasty discovery that I wouldn’t be able to dive because I have asthma...despite having dived before… I was really disappointed about this but was still keen to get out into the water and to experience the aquatic life there.

    Our boat was a large catamaran and took two hours to arrive at our first site of two, literally in the middle of the ocean with nothing but water in sight, at the outer reef. We geared ourselves up with stinger suits (just like in Airlie Beach there are loads of jellyfish at this time of year!) and our snorkel gear and jumped into the water. It was noticably different from the other snorkelling we’ve done before as it was in open water and the waves were much larger, often carrying us away from where we were trying to swim to. We’d been given fins and these were really needed! Beth and I explored the area for the whole 90 minutes we were there and the coral is so vivid in colour, full of life and at times close to the surface of the water (50cm beneath the surface!) that all made for an amazing experience. Amongst many, many others we saw parrot fish, a family of clown fish (Nemo!), bat fish and a HUGE wrasse.

    We were rounded up back to the boat where we had a delicious buffet lunch as we travelled to our next mooring at Michaelmas Cay, a sand isle covered in thousands of sea birds. We were given the option of a glass bottomed boat ride but opted instead to snorkel again so hopped back in the water, where we eagerly swam around for the full 90 minutes again and this time we’d been told we may seem turtles, as they feed on the many jellyfish there. Here the coral was just as alive and kicking and we saw trigger fish, coral trout, a flutemouth and many more. Our highlights were finding a blue spotted stingray swimming just below us (less than 1m deep water), although the waves carried us both over it and a little too close to it’s tail! Also the area was full of GIANT clams and by giant I mean giant - some were so large that I could have balled up to fit in them!

    Overall it was a really cool experience but it was really tiring so on the way back to Cairns we both fell asleep! It was so incredible arriving back at the port that evening having seen so much life in such a small part of the Great Barrier Reef.

    For our final day in Cairns we relaxed and enjoyed the sunshine, going out for a nice meal for lunch near to the port and swimming in the hotel pool. We had to pack our bags and get ready to travel on, including doing a few jobs towards our time in New Zealand. It felt very sudden that our time in Australia had come to an end and the next morning when we were picked up to go to the airport it felt strange to be ending our time in Australia. We really enjoyed the things we’d done and some of the amazing experiences we’d had but felt excited to be moving on as we jetted off into the air to Christchurch, New Zealand.

    Phil    Read more

  • Phil and BethEast to West
    Day 90

    Christchurch

    February 10, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We arrived into Christchurch in the middle of the night, landing at 1am where we battled our way through the rather long immigrations and customs process. New Zealand, like Australia, is very strict on bringing plant and natural-material matter into the country and we dutifully threw away an apple and told them we were carrying mayonnaise and peanuts but didn't consider disclosing our hiking boots. It might sound extreme but we were sent to a screening area where our slightly dusty boots were taken away to be scrubbed clean by a border officer - they're like new!

    Anyway after collapsing into bed in an airport pod-hostel (Google Jucy Snooze Christchurch Airport if you're curious, it's pretty cool!) we slept soundly until time to collect our rental car a few hours later.

    At the rental office we knew we'd booked a budget car but didn't expect the scuffed-up, scratch-and-dent covered rust bucket we were presented...but hey, it was a car! We were about to leave after we'd figured out how to fit our bags into the tiny boot when the manager offered us a car that he wanted returning to Auckland (our end destination!) as an upgrade. It's a much larger and more comfortable car so it was a real win-win!

    Our first stop was to drop our bags at our hostel in central Christchurch, then we left the car behind and headed out on foot to have our first experience of the country. A short walk along a grassy riverbank pathway and then we started walking down the streets and we immediately started to recognise the damage the city has suffered due to nature's power. For every building there was one derelict adjacent to it and for such a large city (by NZ standards at least) there were so many empty spaces where we assume buildings stood. It was truly harrowing to see.

    A short walk took us to the city's heart, Cathedral Square. Before a series of earthquakes during late 2010 and early 2011 that decimated the city and wider state of Canterbury this square was ringed with classic buildings, almost all of which are now gone. Most difficult to see is the still damaged cathedral, missing it's frontage and tower. Despite the damage we'd seen so far the city has a very positive feel to it, with re-building and intuitive use of the empty spaces within the city an ongoing feature. In the square we found a food market where there was dozens of options for a delicious and cheap lunch which we couldn't resist!

    Next we continued to Re-Start Mall, uniquely made from dozens of brightly coloured shipping containers, another clever way of rebuilding. In and amongst the shops were cafes, bars and many clever sculptures and art installations. We enjoyed a couple of hours there wandering in and out of the shops and eating cake in the sun!

    Just over the road from the mall we went to a museum called Quake City, which interactively and interestingly tells the tale of the earthquakes that damaged the city and state as well as claiming nearly 200 lives. Inside we found 'why do earthquakes happen', displays of damaged things from the city and a film of survivor stories which were truly harrowing and gave a real idea of what the situation was like as it happened.

    As we walked around the city during the rest of the afternoon we kept seeing reminders of the pain the city had felt but like I said before, there's an energy in the ongoing rebuild and the council has big plans for a modern city. We'd be interested to go back in 5 or 10 years to see the difference. The residents remember the earthquakes but moreover remember those who died, with a memorial of 185 empty white chairs laid out in an empty patch of grass in the middle of the city, one for each casualty - very moving, especially if I quote the artist's blurb that "...the installation is temporary, as is life."

    The following morning we headed out of the city and south into the countryside, leaving behind the concrete boxes and soon we were beginning to experience the stunning scenery that NZ is so famous for. Our destination was the village of Franz Josef nearly 400km away, high in the mountains of the West coast. It took us five hours to do the journey, mainly as we kept stopping for photos and to admire the scenery. Most jaw-dropping of all was Arthur's Pass where the road is etched against sheer mountainside, at times passing through small tunnels and under falling water. We're going to enjoy driving around the country over the month we have here.

    Phil    Read more

  • Phil and BethEast to West
    Day 92

    Franz Josef and Wanaka

    February 12, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    As we arrived in Franz Josef it was grey and drizzling with rain, despite being only mid afternoon. Our hostel was cosy with a log burner in the common room and a hot tub in a shack outside - perfect, if the weather stayed so cool. That evening after we'd eaten dinner at a local pub we relaxed in the hot tub as it drizzled outside and chatted with a Canadian couple, exchanging travel stories and having a good laugh at some of the experiences we'd all had.

    When we woke up the next morning there was heavy rain settled in for the day, but we continued with our plan and drove to nearby Okatigo Lagoon next to the coast, where we walked through beautiful wetlands to a lookout over the area. It was a good walk even if we did get soaked by the rain. We'd originally planned to do a longer walk around a nearby lake but because of the heavy rain we opted instead to just see it from the edge before we went back into the village.

    We'd booked a tour for that afternoon with a company called Franz Josef Glacier Guides and planned to do their helicopter-hike, where we'd be flown to the glacier, dropped there for a three hour hike on the ice, then flown back down. When we arrived at the office it became apparent very quickly that we were out of luck with the weather, being told that all flights were cancelled for the rest of the day because the helicopters can't fly in the heavy rain. A bit disappointed we tried to book for the following day to do the same at fox glacier (a 30 minute drive away) and then went back to our hostel to sit by the log fire and to plan some more of our time in NZ beyond our basic itinerary.

    After a few successful hours by the fire we donned our coat and walking boots again and drove to a nearby walk through a glacial valley that led up to the front of the Franz Josef Glacier. It was still raining heavily so half way through the walk as we cut through a stony, dry riverbed we were entirely sodden but got our first glimpse of the blue ice. We followed the path as far as we could and managed to see some more of the glacier although the cloud coverage lowered as we reached the best viewing area. We still enjoyed the walk and managed to see the glacier we'd wanted to hike!

    After drying off by the fire for a while longer back at our hostel we were joined by our new Canadian friends in a walk 5 minutes outside of the village to a walk through the nearby forest. Geared up with torches we were hunting for glowworms and within minutes of looking we found an upturned tree trunk whose underside was covered with dozens of luminescent green dots! As we followed the track we found hundreds more, mainly through using a trick we'd learned at the hostel which was to wave the light at them then turn it off and make some noise. We probably looked mad but found what we were after and left to go back to a pub for a drink and to warm up, happy with our exploring.

    The next day's weather was no better and we had a phone call at dawn to tell us the flights were cancelled again for the day, so took this as a cue to move on.

    The destination of our road trip that day was Wanaka and along the way we had a few stops we wanted to make. Our first was Lake Matheson which is emblematic of the country's scenery, with views of snowy mountains in the distance above lush forest mirrored perfectly in the still water of the lake, when the conditions are right...which sadly they weren't when we arrived in the drizzle. The view obscured by thick cloud and the lake looking like any other, we didn't get to see what has drawn so many others to the lake so we continued our journey on.

    Two further stops that day were at the Blue Pools, named so for the glacial blue water that sits aside a pretty river. A short hike took us to their location, including crossing two small suspension bridges across raging rivers (Beth did these without too much difficulty!) and on arrival again we were disappointed to find that the rain had caused a tributary river to swell and therefore the blue pools were a murky brown instead. We pressed on, starting to feel that the poor weather was going to ruin everything we wanted to see until we arrived at our last stop of the day where finally the bad weather had worked to our advantage. Their name is Thundercreek Falls, a huge set of very powerful waterfalls that you can hear roaring through the forested path to them from the car park. The rain high in the mountains had caused them to become even more powerful than usual, giving us a treat to see them in this way despite it being mid-summer here.

    That evening we arrived into Wanaka as the rain finally began to ease. We'd dived into a restaurant to shelter and as we ate our Thai dinner the rain passed, giving us our first sunshine for days as we walked out. Before dinner we'd given up on the idea of looking around the town because of the weather but now the sky had cleared we went for a walk in the cool evening. We were so glad that we did.

    The town sits next to Lake Wanaka, across which you have a view of a huge mountain range on top of which there are snowy peaks. The evening sun gave the vista a golden glow and despite it being decidedly cold now we sat on the stony shore of the lake and ate delicious Italian style gelato, taking in the view of the scenery that we'd been craving all day.

    It had been a great way to end the day and as we woke the next morning the sun was still shining as we visited the nearby 'Puzzling World'. If you're like me you'll be really interested in mind puzzles, illusions and tricks of the mind - that's what puzzling world is! Five rooms are filled with mind-bending tricks which kept us confused for a couple of hours, then we headed outside into their 1.6km maze. We read all the instructions about the aim, which is to reach four coloured corner towers in order then escape the maze. It usually takes 30-60 minutes and involved a lot of walking. Honestly, we tried for about 15 minutes before giving up and leaving the maze through a shortcut-exit! In our defence though we managed three of the four towers!

    Around the site they have plenty of fun photo opportunities and while part of the fun is taking the photos it's almost as much fun to watch the other visitors posing for them! Once we'd had enough of messing around we hopped back into the car for yet another road trip, this time with the blazing sun above us :)

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